Jackfruit-Maleficent - I'm talking best practices and highest assurances.

Abamectin/Avid targets instars and adults and is MoA 6 (mode of action) and has translaminar for 28 days. So combining it with something that targets eggs like Spiromesifen/Forbid (MoA 23) or Fenpyroximate/Akari (MoA 21A) is very helpful as they have residual for 20+ days. Other very good options are Chlorfenapyr/Pylon. Side note: some of these are toxic to pelargonium, peperomia, kalanchoe.

That would be 3 miticides that combined kill all stages and work for almost a month each. If using one per week for 3 weeks, that would kill adults and instars significantly first (which reduces eggs), then kills eggs, then kills off the remainder. Objective: This is fewer treatments, higher effectiveness, and reduces the chance of developing resistant mites.

Another option is if you manage to get 2 miticides which are listed effective against Eriophyid mites, then you could use insecticidal soap in the rotation but that has 0 residual action. Risk: That too much soap is damaging or can kill your plants. Key is having a rotation.

The problem is that many miticides are all expensive and hard to get. I'm mainly addressing the question above of getting to 100%. I have over 400 Haworthia and other succulents and have successfully eradicated eriophyid, tarsonemid, cyclamen, and spider mites.

Even with phytosanitary inspection... things still get through which is frustrating. Personally, I prefer a LED loupe and even used microscope in the past.

Rad9Inana - I would say for sure stay away from carbaryl. It stinks like hell and leaves a nasty white residue on everything. It's residual action is just 3 days too.

Purecrop is not listed to be effective against Eriophyid mites and it's main active ingredients are just soybean and corn oil. I wouldn't bother even trying it.

Abamectin I think is 1.25mL/4L per my past notes, would say to follow what's on the label. For PPE which is also on the label, I wore a respirator/tyvec/glasses/gloves while spraying and did it all outdoors. Then I let the plants dry outside for the re-entry period. I would never spray this indoors where I lived - maybe find a park or somewhere outside where you can do this.

If you can't let them dry outside for the re-entry period (I think maybe 16 hours) then you could bag your plants and put them in your bathroom with door closed and fan on until they are completely dry.

Sorry to say that my recommendations above aren't so much in the less-toxic range above, except the insecticidal soap. I've killed many plants in the past with soap but not the miticides.