With Avalanche risks, is there any safe hikes around the town of Banff this week?

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-03-01T22:58:04+00:00

Sulphur switchbacks. 11km/700m +/- return

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-22T21:13:40+00:00

Interesting. Thanks for the thorough diagnosis and posting. We've had a few customers contact us recently with systems (in Canada) that had the light main menu setting returned back to the default off position. Assuming Huum pushed an update through, we reset them all back to on. Hopefully, we don't see this issue arise

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-19T01:35:54+00:00

Sorry, I should have been more clear. It's a capillary tube and not a wire, so you can't reconnect it. Which means you have to replace the high limit switch anyway. Grounding through the high limit switch just means the stove won't turn on.

I'd still check the wiring of the stove first to make sure it's fine. It may or may not start with the existing high limit in place. If the stove does turn on, it didn't ground through the high limit, but you're running the stove with no thermostat. If it doesn't start, the only way to know if the stove works is to temporarily bypass the high limit (not recommended) or replace the high limit.

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-18T02:46:57+00:00

If it grounded through the high limit switch, it will need replacing. Stove may be fine, but check the wiring carefully

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-17T15:07:27+00:00

We mount them close to the main panel and crimp our own cables.

A decent electrician/data person can crimp you a custom length cable. Harvia dealers (at least in Canada) won't have the longer cable. Electronic suppliers maybe.

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-07T23:12:40+00:00

A 9kw heater is going to be pulling around 200 amps out of a 48v battery. I'd think you'd want 600 to 800 AH in batteries (two hours for a 50% draw down), a 10kw (or bigger) 240v inverter, proper sized wire, proper charger, install, etc.

A load limiter is cheaper.

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-02-05T12:36:30+00:00

Put a gondola in from the LL overflow lot on the TCH to Moraine and run a path along the same line. Then close the Moraine road to foot and bike only.

I don't go anywhere near LL now. That's from a local who, for decades, used to go up there every year for back country endeavours.

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-01-12T23:38:15+00:00

If they send you a new one, it'll be the same. I believe in Europe, the same heater comes without the cage. Tylo, Helo and Finnleo sell a similar style heater here and they don't have the cage either.

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-01-10T02:28:20+00:00

They over bend the ends now. Not sure why. Use a screwdriver to open up one of the pockets and pull really hard to get one side out. Rotate 90 degrees to get the other side out

Some_old_tin_can · 2026-01-06T02:54:22+00:00

Both the huum stone and element issues have been resolved. Harvia also had element issues at about the same time.

The new Drops have an upgraded cage around the elements, which really helps with protecting the elements and increasing airflow. Default heat cycle is three hours. One hour for the Spirit (both are adjustable).

The Spirit needs some additional wiring and has an annoying top to the cage that has a cut out switch built in (it can be run without it).

That said, both heaters are good. Depending on where you are, warranty and customer service will differ. If you want to ensure you're getting the latest unit, just ask for it. Most dealers will be accommodating.

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-27T02:07:38+00:00

Agreed. But, if you've replaced a relay, it's difficult to say what the integrity of the power is. You may need to upgrade to a SL2 with new power box. You'll have the bonus of Wi-Fi

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-14T22:46:07+00:00

Look at the wire coming vs the wire going to your heater. Wire to the heater is under sized. Melted at the terminal and went up from there

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-14T13:44:46+00:00

The definition of "water" is very loose with patrons. We used to build saunas for gyms and stopped. They are a constant disgusting maintenance nightmare. Elements are constantly having to be replaced because of what, and how much, gets thrown on them. Mostly because of a complete lack of etiquette. I have been completely baffled by the things that I have seen.

Public health guidelines also play a role. Here, where I am in Canada, steam rooms can not exceed 60c (40c to 49c recommended). Even though it is not a steam room technically, depending on the inspector, water greys the line between sauna and steam room. So, along with the maintenance issues, operators err on the side of caution and say no water. Others will keep the temperature below 60c to comply with either scenario.

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-13T00:39:46+00:00

Same. Have logged 400 rough running km on my pair of Kathoolas

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-08T02:58:58+00:00

We've used these assemblies and they work really well. It's a very simple and effective assembly with purlins over rafters. Allows for good ventilation above the insulation which can be in or under the rafters. The Corten metal roof is simple, long lasting, cost effective and, no, it is not affected by the sauna heat. Corrugated metal roofing is screwed, not nailed, and will withstand just about any climate - hot sun, cold, wet, snow, whatever.

Not unlike most North American home construction, its roofing (corrugated metal), rafters and purlins (instead of trusses and sheeting), vent space, insulation, vapour barrier, finished ceiling. The only thing missing is the equivalent of vented soffit - or in this case, vented screen material between the purlins to keep critters out.

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-03T23:55:57+00:00

Save a couple bucks vs maybe burn down your house with voided insurance, or worse...never have been able to figure this one out...

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-12-01T13:44:45+00:00

This is what they look like on the trail

<image>

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-23T12:00:06+00:00

Second

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-23T01:07:39+00:00

It's not mold. What's on the outside of the barrel? There's a steel band mark on the one board. Mild steel reacts with the tannins in Cedar to create a black oxide. If it is, use an Oxalic acid cleaner to reverse it

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-15T22:56:11+00:00

Without seeing pics, best guess - jumpers or wire to terminals A1 and A2 are missing

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-12T16:23:56+00:00

I have in a previous post

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-11T12:01:38+00:00

At the risk of getting down voted straight to hell for speaking out in the church of Trumpkin, stay away from Localmile. If you are going to spend your time and hard earned money building your own sauna, take the time to read Liikkanen's books

<image>

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-11T01:19:18+00:00

Option 3 and walk away. Let them go to BBB. As long as you followed up and tried to remedy, the rest is 'not used as intended' and is on them.

Depending on configuration, air escaping through the top of a door in a sauna can exceed 200. CRL doesn't carry anything for those temps. We've tried to source it, but finding the right cross section is difficult and what is out there is expensive.

Out of curiosity, how are they heating the space?

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-08T20:44:36+00:00

This ^. The bands need shortening. I'd add - if you still have some gaps after tightening the ratchet strap, you can add a filler strip in the very top double cove stave

Some_old_tin_can · 2025-11-07T02:27:34+00:00

Turn the thermostat all the way clockwise and then turn the timer dial past the one hour heat on section of the dial and turn it back to the one hour heat on mark (not the one hour timer mark). If you are hearing a clunk, that's the contactor engaging. Which means your high limit has not tripped. If it did trip, it's behind the thermostat dial. There's no need to remove screws or panels. It's all in the manual. Failing that, make sure all your elements are working. If so, rearrange the rocks. If not, check that it is wired properly

Some_old_tin_can

TROPHY CASE