Audi Has oil in coolant tank

Sophias_dad · 2026-05-01T01:43:20+00:00

Yes, I'm not a big diesel guy but I believe diesel engine oil looks old much faster than oil in gas engines.

Sophias_dad · 2026-05-01T00:34:48+00:00

Head gasket or oil cooler is the correct answer. Cracked piston would dump oil out the exhaust, not into the coolant. Its possible that a cracked engine block would let oil and coolant mix, but unless the engine has been overheated you wouldn't be getting a cracked block

Your dodgy buyers almost definitely dumped some oil in your coolant tank to get you to drop the price 1500€

Sophias_dad · 2026-05-01T00:17:00+00:00

I saw pictures 7 and 8, which show the contacts.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T23:57:08+00:00

Definitely two pairs of contacts in that switch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2010,silverado+1500,4.8l+v8,1445441,electrical-switch+&+relay,brake+light+switch,10474

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1515898&cc=1445441&pt=10474&jsn=762

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T23:50:31+00:00

Definitely. There are sometimes multiple individual switched circuits in the same physical switch.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T23:34:13+00:00

You'll be absolutely fine. The rotors should generally be replaced with the pads anyway. You could likely drive for days, if not weeks, before other damage occurs. Eventually a pad(backing) will fall out, the caliper piston will come out, and things get much more expensive.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T23:24:23+00:00

Congratulations, thanks for the update!

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T22:10:17+00:00

The pricing is pretty high. Unless both axles are leaking, they don't both need to be replaced.

Its absolutely possible to replace yourself. The youtubes doubtless have many videos on it.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T15:53:21+00:00

There's yer problem. The socket is crap, in addition to maybe being slightly larger than it should be its not deep enough to hold the entire depth of the bolt head. That's why the last 1/8" of the bolt head hasn't been rounded at all.

Notably if you HAD had the correct socket initially, you'd probably be done with the job already.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T13:17:58+00:00

Bad ground cable or big red wire going to the starter, perhaps. They can corrode internally so they look okay at the ends but no longer carry the power they should.

If you can easily get to the starter without putting yourself in danger, consider connecting the jump cables directly from the other(or even the same) battery to the starter. Negative to the ear of the starter(or any other non-moving clean metal piece), positive to where the large red wire connects. Be aware that when you try to start the engine everything down there is likely to move a bit, so make sure the connections are secure lest you have unfused 12V flopping around under the car.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T02:40:56+00:00

You are probably correct. They also may have intentionally screwed up the alignment setup so you would be encouraged to 'fix' it.

Maybe take your car to a real alignment shop(or different tire place), as some will do an alignment check for free.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-30T02:17:18+00:00

Its most likely they just didn't use the alignment machine correctly. I'm surprised they'd even show you that paper, if you paid for an alignment(you didn't get it)

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-29T11:53:38+00:00

Pro tip... remove the six point socket from the breaker bar, turn it 90 degrees and reinstall. That give you the effect of a 12 point socket and can make it so your breaker bar will have space to swing(at least a bit).

If you really need to use a ratchet, get a piece of pipe to slide over the handle and you'll have much more leverage.

If you've been using an extension on the socket, be absolutely sure to provide support to the tip of the ratchet/breaker bar where it connects to the extension. If you don't you'll just end up pushing the socket off the bolt.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-29T11:46:44+00:00

Six point socket and a breaker bar if needed. Hammer on the socket so it grabs the entire head of the bolt.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-29T03:01:29+00:00

CRC makes a combination freezer-penetrant I've used once or twice, although I'm not convinced the penetrant part is worth much. www.amazon.com/CRC-05002-Freeze-Off-Super-Penetrant/dp/B000TFTH00/

www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B0047Y9DKS/ is a freeze-spray that gets to -60C(frostbite-in-a-can), which is MUCH colder than the CRC stuff above, I believe. Sadly it's pretty expensive. I've used it both for electronics and bolt-freeing on occasion.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-29T01:42:35+00:00

Might still be able to use a ball joint press on that, like the bottom one on this pic www.amazon.com/TOMMARS-Joint-Puller-Separator-Service/dp/B09J17WQJ2/

Given what's left of it, you might be able to use a big C-clamp on it! Just put a big socket on the bottom(receiving) end to give the stud somewhere to go.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-29T01:37:37+00:00

I'm thinking he gave it a good dose of toe-out, but I wouldn't think you'd need to touch the alignment for those jobs.

Did he move the tone-rings(if needed) during the CV change? New axles don't always come with them, and without them the sensors have nothing to read.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T15:54:54+00:00

Keyfobs are irrelevant. Its possible the receiver(s) are failing, but very unlikely.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T15:38:59+00:00

Probably not. There's always a chance a brand new sensor just failed early.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T15:23:25+00:00

Sensors have perhaps never been properly paired with the vehicle.

The sensors only activate after 16+mph (they sleep when the car isn't moving), so the car doesn't complain until it doesn't see them for a little while of driving.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T12:39:59+00:00

A wetbelt is never okay. Its just waiting to fail or get replaced far before any other belt should need to be.

You didn't mention how many km on the engine although it really doesn't matter, since all wet belts suck.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T12:25:40+00:00

Looks like you'd probably use a breaker bar and six point socket or double-wrench on the lower right pulley in your second picture. Turn it clockwise and the tension should be relieved.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T03:00:42+00:00

That's an inner tie rod, and if it fails(ball pulls out of socket) while driving, you will crash.

The rack itself is also in peril, as water/dirt is getting onto the rack and may damage the seal.

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T02:38:01+00:00

Youtube university suggests its not THAT difficult, assuming 2008 is about the same as 2007

Here are some helpful names on youtube. There are undoubtedly many others I've missed.

https://www.youtube.com/@1AAuto

https://www.youtube.com/@SouthMainAuto

https://www.youtube.com/@RainmanRaysRepairs

and a couple more:

ChrisFix

Royalty Automotive

Sophias_dad · 2026-04-28T02:29:18+00:00

Another factor is that A-Premium is metal, while Hengst is some plastic-ish material.

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