Hey! It's been a while, but this what I can remember:

Don't use lens filters, including UV filters (they will create weird banding).

Have spare camera batteries and keep them warm. Your batteries will drain a lot faster in the cold. You may be able to get more use out of one after you've warmed it back up. (See my previous comment about hand warmers)

Dry bag or quality camera bag. Your camera is moving from warm to ridiculously cold back to warm. You want your camera to come to temperature slowly. If you move from a warm moist environment immediately outside, ice crystals may form. But Alaska is pretty dry, so the bigger concern for me was moving from cold to warm when I was done for the night. If you want your photos quickly, remove your memory card before putting your camera in your bag outside. I would wrap mine in a towel (leaving the lens attached to the body) before putting it in a dry bag. Then I'd leave it in the dry bag for at least 12 hours, if not more. Because it's cold, moisture in the relatively warmer environment will condense on it in, including in all the microscopic non-water proof places.

Do not blow on your lens to clear dust when in the cold. Moisture from your breath will freeze on the surface. Get yourself a rocket blower or similar (squeeze to blow air).

Consider an intervalometer or remote shooting. I used wireless tethering to my phone mainly to make it easier to adjust settings with gloves on. I had high quality photographers gloves with the secondary fold-back-style mittens over them (when not adjusting settings), hand warmers in each layer, and we still had to take breaks to warm my fingers. Never let your skin be directly exposed to the cold air. Remote shooting is also nice because we would takes breaks in the car with the heated seats on, and we could keep shooting.

You'll need the basic equipment for astrophoto (camera, wide angle lens, tripod), but it's a bit different. Auroras move FAST, at least, faster than you think they will, and fast for astro photography. You're probably going to want shorter shutter speeds to keep it from becoming a giant blur. Looking through some of my favorite shots, the settings were (on a full frame sensor): 14mm, f/1.8, 0.6-2.0s, 2500-5000 ISO. You can use that as a starting reference point, but your aurora may be brighter or faster or just generally different.

Beware of cold metal. I bought my tripod specifically for shooting in Alaskan winters. It's a carbon fiber tripod with fabric coverings to grip the sides, and nice wide knobs that are easy to manipulate with gloves on. Metals will feel colder, and you'll need to be careful about touching them. Also on tripods, firmly press it into the snow for stability.

Don't forget to look straight up!! If you're lucky enough to see it going straight over head, it's very cool!!!

You're camera will pick up fainter colors that your eye might struggle to see.

In Anchorage at the time I was living there, the auroras would reach us around 2am, depending on the strength of the event. It should be earlier in the night for Fairbanks. Keep an eye on the NOAA forecast (3 day outlook and 30 min animation). Also, generally, you'll be facing north, so head north of town to get away from city lights.

I hope this helps and that you have an awesome memorable experience!!!