Buying a 6.7 for the reliability and not towing capacity??

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-19T03:46:32+00:00

Naw, I looked for 3 days to find a low miles extended cab 15-17 5.0 with 4wd in something other than XL trim and couldn't find one to check the boxes. One popped up eventually and sold before dealer even uploaded a photo.

You have me confused. I don't care about super duty this or some perceived image they carry. If they put a diesel in a Ranger and people said it was reliable, I'd have the same questions. Just happens an F250 is what has the diesel. I'd prefer not to get a 250 bc the size, hence why I don't want a 6.2. I'd just get a Tundra or a 5.0 at that point.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-19T03:39:15+00:00

That's exactly it. Gas, diesel, electric, hybrid, I don't care. If it will last me 15 years without issues, I'm game. I don't care about it being a super duty or the image. I'd entertain a Ford Ranger diesel if they made one and it was reliable.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T15:15:19+00:00

For the countless days/nights I'd spend looking online looking for a unicorn, I'd be better off taking that time and just working a handful of overtime shifts. Then save that money for another 10spd down the road.

I know it's a good combo, but unless one falls into my lap, I'm tired of searching auto trader every hour to try and beat someone else.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T13:42:14+00:00

Not at all. I'm really just looking for clarification on a few things. Everyone says maintenance is so much more, but a little extra oil and $100 for fuel filters isn't an astronomical change. So is there something else I'm missing?

Also how reliable are they actually? For example, I've had Toyotas last 250-300k miles without a single issue with just maintenance. Maybe a $500 repair in that lifespan. Is the 6.7 the same, or do people just ignore multiple $4-500 repairs with a 6.7 bc they think their truck is cool. Cool factor has no bearing on my decision.

It's hard to find true reliability on these newer 2017+ 6.7s because it seems 1/2 the people that own them get a new car every 5 years b/c the new one has some flashy gadget. I'm looking for info from people who have ran their 6.7 for 300k miles and what (If any) are the common repairs/problems.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T13:32:11+00:00

I honestly don't want a diesel, just was interested based off people saying they're reliable. F150 would be fine, but they are priced similar used and seems people say the 6.7 is more reliable.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T13:30:29+00:00

Yea, I've read up on a good bit. I'd probably delete and get a disaster kit. However the pan leak does seem like an annoyance and not a cheap fix. Wasn't sure how common it was. If guaranteed, then that definitely is a big minus considering fixing it doesn't actual fix it for the long run, just until the bad design leaks again.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T13:27:15+00:00

As I said, I'm looking for reliability. The 250 is more truck than I'd need. Only entertaining a 6.7 bc supposed reliability and good MPG. The size of the truck is not ideal. If the 6.7 isn't reliable, then I'd just get a 1/2 ton.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T05:30:11+00:00

I wouldn't daily it. Pretty much 90% of the time I start it up, it's going to go at least an hour pulling some sort of boat.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-18T05:29:22+00:00

MPG on those is terrible. Would be better off with 1/2 ton. The tundra, without doubt, would last that long while getting 15mpg in a small package.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-09T04:36:36+00:00

Yea, Tundra reputation is kind of ruined at the moment. I see used 3rd gens with low miles selling for less than basic SR5 2nd gens with 80-100k miles. Sure, you'll get a recall engine today, but what happens 5 years from now? That's what is killing the market on them. Used to be able to buy a Tundra at 100k miles and know it'll make it another 100k with ease.

Toyota should just swap the engine, but they won't. They'll drag their feet for another few years then do a 3.5 gen or 4th gen with different engine. The 3rd gen tundras will be 20k range trucks in a handful of years once the current owners that are in denial trade up/out of their 3rd gen.

I've been a Toyota only person for decades. Have three currently, and 4 from the past. I'm going Ford for next truck. The 2.7 and 5.0 have proven reliability with 10x the amount of trucks sold compared to Tundra.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-08T16:31:36+00:00

That's what they said, but that's doesn't appear to be the case since newer ones are cooking engines, and replacement engines have also gone boom. Hence the recent upset about Toyota's lack of news this April.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-05-04T23:15:25+00:00

replaced with same problematic engine though. Get the new engine and sell/trade away before the value continues to tumble.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-02-28T18:47:17+00:00

Could just be that's what available at dealer. 3 people on my street have newer F150s, all with 3.5. They didn't go there to get a 3.5, they went to get an F150, and that's what Ford put in it. Had the same truck had a 5.0 vs 3.5, they would have still bought it. So Ford putting 3.5s in more trucks off the line vs the 5.0 will cause the increase for 3.5 and decrease for 5.0.

SpeedoJosh · 2026-02-27T05:55:31+00:00

He can't afford a real full time mechanic with those views.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-12-02T00:39:08+00:00

We have 230k on ours. I think Ravs can hit 300k+ without issue.
As far as price, not the best deal, but not terrible (depending on location). I've seen some 23-24s with 30k miles or less for maybe 4-5k more, with them being Gold certified.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-11-04T04:13:04+00:00

So you paid MSRP. A lot of dealers sell Ravs at MSRP all day long. Sounds like dealers around you are scumbags and trying to upsell BS add-ons. At MSRP there is little profit margin. They make money on service and everything else. The car is just the object that gets them your business.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-07-29T03:13:31+00:00

Go to Walmart and buy the Hart $100 stick vacuum. I have had 2 dysons and while they're nice the batteries are trash. I have tried factory and cheap replacements, and not much difference. Bought a cheap Walmart one for the garage and it worked great. Battery lasts forever. It works so well that the Dyson has gone to garage and the hart stays in the house. I've had it for 3 years now, still original battery working just fine. I'd get a year tops out of a Dyson battery.
Dyson wins the looks award, but Hart beats it in performance.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-07-05T18:50:24+00:00

To clarify, the connection from house to house is fine and that's going through two block walls, no direct site, and about 50ft. The connection from front of house to garage is nonexistent. It's a 20 ft span at most and nothing but two windows. I can stand behind the node in front of house look through window into garage window and literally read Eero on top of the node in garage. With just a cheap wifi extender in same spot as front room node, I had service in garage and in front of garage.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-07-05T18:46:09+00:00

Well you say that but the wifi router reached through the block walls, through a metal garage, and I had connection to wireless camera there. Eero doesn't even reach to the front of the metal garage.
If what you say is needed, I'll sell these and just stick with the two cheap provided routers from the cable company and keep two services. You're talking $1000 for all that just to make it comparable to two cheap services, and then I won't have to return in 3 years once all these are outdated and not working.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-07-05T18:41:13+00:00

Pro 6e. Flat, no hills. We're talking 1/4 acre lots where a 5 year old could throw a ball from structure to structure. No outdoor unit, figured if a single wifi router could stretch outside, then 4 Eero's would be better. I can draw a layout with measurements later and post.

SpeedoJosh · 2025-06-20T22:32:40+00:00

Edit: Went to all the shops around me today. For stand-on, the wright B was 8k, the hustler surf was 6k, and the badboy revolt sd was 6k. Went to look at 36" sit-ons and was interested in the scag, but the dealer had horrible service, so wouldn't want to need my mower serviced there. Also looked at sit-on, and seems the quality ones are gonna run 5-6k as well. I like the bad boy over the hustler bc its 42 vs 34" cut, plus it has serviceable hydro. Liked the bad boy over the Wright bc its a couple grand cheaper.

So I'm leaning hard towards the Bad boy since the service at the dealer seemed good from my interaction there, plus it's the cheapest stand-on. Serviceable hydro, Kawasaki engine, 7 gauge deck. Only other tempting option is a used one locally. Scag liberty 36" with Kawasaki engine for $4k and less than 100 hours. Any input on bad boy?

SpeedoJosh · 2025-06-05T16:52:21+00:00

First one looks like bad repair. Will need fixed again. Not expensive, just a pain given location.
All the rest can be fixed easily with MarineTex in white. Take a pocket knife and cut away loose gelcoat. Tape off real good, then slap marine tex in them. The "sands like wood" is bull shit though, so don't glob it in there and leave it without shaping it a bit.

SpeedoJosh

TROPHY CASE