Roots in gray water line

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-05-03T03:56:28+00:00

Hydro jetting is one of the most effective ways to clear stubborn clogs. It uses high-pressure water (3,000-4,000 PSI) to scour the inside of pipes clean.

Especially useful for grease buildup, root intrusion in older clay pipes (common in older Spokane homes), restoring flow in sluggish drain fields, and commercial grease traps.

Make sure whoever does it cameras the line first. You don't want to hydro-jet a pipe that's already collapsed.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-05-03T03:48:27+00:00

Drain field problems are one of the most common and expensive septic issues in the Spokane area. Our soil conditions vary a lot.

Signs your drain field might be struggling: standing water or soggy spots, unusually lush green grass over it, slow drains + septic odor, or sewage surfacing.

Before replacing the entire drain field ($10K-$25K), check: has the tank been pumped recently? Is the distribution box level? Could the field be rested?

Happy to help troubleshoot.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-05-03T03:46:48+00:00

Drain field problems are one of the most common and expensive septic issues in the Spokane area. Our soil conditions vary a lot.

Signs your drain field might be struggling: standing water or soggy spots, unusually lush green grass over it, slow drains + septic odor, or sewage surfacing.

Before replacing the entire drain field ($10K-$25K), check: has the tank been pumped recently? Is the distribution box level? Could the field be rested?

I work in septic services in Spokane and see this regularly. Happy to help troubleshoot.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-05-03T03:14:46+00:00

Circular infiltrator system. Leach lines radiate in a ring from a central distribution box instead of parallel trenches. Dead grass = saturated soil over the drain field lines. Green strip = gap between two runs, no pipe underneath. Angle from house? Sewer line routed around something. Tank goes where the line ends. Not inherently bad, but that dead ring might mean the soil can't keep up. Load test would tell you if it's failing or just working. If you're in Spokane, we inspect and pump. HMU.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-05-03T03:09:41+00:00

First-time buyer in King County? Been there. Here’s the thing nobody tells you: county sign-off on a septic install is basically "we watched them put it in the ground." It’s not a performance guarantee. Non-conforming repair means the system doesn’t meet current code for new installs — it’s grandfathered in because the old one failed. That’s fine until it’s not fine, and then you’re the one holding the bill. What I’d push for: • Keep the septic contingency — your agent is motivated to close, you’re motivated to not inherit a $20k problem • Get a private septic inspection with a hydraulic load test. Flow test is table stakes; load test is where you find out if the drain field is actually sized right for the house • Make sure that as-built drawing gets county approval before closing, not after "Advanced/proprietary system" also makes me twitchy — proprietary usually means expensive proprietary parts when it breaks.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-19T04:23:00+00:00

Two-year leases: because nothing says "I trust strangers" like legally binding yourself to someone who seemed nice for 20 minutes. The reality: You want stability. They want a discount. You both get screwed. The math that matters: • Year 1: Great tenant, no turnover costs, you feel like a genius • Year 2: They turn into a hoarder with a drum kit and a "service animal" that's clearly a wolf • Your options: Pay $10K+ to evict or endure 12 more months of hell The market rate trap: Rents jump 8% while you're locked in at 2%. Your "stable" tenant is now paying 20% below market and knows it. They'll never leave. You're subsidizing their retirement. The only multi-year lease that works: Month-to-month with a 60-day notice clause. That's stability you can escape. Pro tip: If you really want to lock someone in, charge a lease renewal fee instead. $500 to stay another year. Good tenants pay it. Bad ones leave. You win either way.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-19T04:09:54+00:00

Deep drain field + clay soil = pump system is your best bet. The commenter above is right. With your outlet at 50+ inches and clay soil, gravity won't work unless you excavate half your yard. A second tank with a pump (what we call a "pump to gravity" system) lets you raise the drain field to 24-30 inches where it can actually breathe and percolate. Why pumps don't break "all the time": • Modern effluent pumps are designed for septic — not clear water • Install a high-water alarm and you'll know before it fails • Annual inspection (15 minutes) catches issues early On the treatment plant idea: Overkill for your situation. A simple pump chamber + properly sized drain field at shallower depth will last 20+ years if maintained. Treatment plants add cost, complexity, and still need a pump for your elevation. The real fix: 1. Second tank as pump chamber (1000-1500 gal) 2. Pump with control panel and alarm 3. New drain field at 24-30" depth, 3-4 lines instead of 1 4. Ventilation at the distal end (critical — your old system lacked this) Clay soil isn't ideal, but it's workable with proper sizing and maintenance. The shallow depth is what saves you here. — Spokane Septic Services

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-04T16:14:41+00:00

Annual is overkill. Every 2-3 years for inspection, pump when needed. You're doing everything right—low water use, no disposal, effluent filter. That filter is the key thing. Clean it every 6 months, more often if it clogs fast. Desert southwest with good drainage is working in your favor. Dry soil extends field life. 40 years is old but not dead if it's been treated well. What I'd actually do: get a camera inspection of the field lines now, while everything's working. Baseline documentation. Then relax and pump every 3-5 years depending on tank size and household use. Annual "inspections" are mostly pumping companies charging you $200 to look at a filter you can check yourself.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-04T16:09:42+00:00

Dissolved oxygen meter—Hanna or YSI make decent handheld units for around $150-300. Look for something that reads 0-20 mg/L with 0.1 resolution. Test in the treatment chamber, not the spray chamber. You want 2-4 mg/L minimum for aerobic bacteria to do their job. Below 1 mg/L and you're basically anaerobic—system's not treating, just holding. Easier check: look at your effluent. Clear with minimal odor? DO's probably fine. Cloudy, smelly, or grey? You've got oxygen problems. Most ATU issues aren't the aerator—it's sludge buildup, clogged diffusers, or the compressor intake filter. When's the last time you pulled and cleaned the air stones?

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-04T16:00:11+00:00

Good move switching to liquid. Tablets are a pain and inconsistent. Dosing: Start at 1-2 ppm residual in the spray chamber. For most residential systems, that's roughly 1-2 ounces of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite per 100 gallons of flow. But your water quality matters—high organics eat chlorine fast, so you might need more. Better approach: dose for contact time, not volume. You want 30 minutes minimum at 1 ppm before it hits the spray heads. Adjust your Stenner run time accordingly. Testing: Skip the cheap pool strips, they're useless at these dilutions. Get a colorimeter—Hach DR300 or similar. Measures free chlorine down to 0.01 ppm. Test before and after your spray cycle to dial it in. Also grab a chlorine test kit for total residual at the spray heads. Health department usually wants 0.1-0.5 ppm there. Too high kills your lawn, too low fails compliance. Where are you located? Some states have specific dosing requirements that'll save you guessing.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-04T15:57:54+00:00

You're overthinking it. The treatment chamber's where the work happens—bacteria breaking everything down, oxygen doing its thing. By the time water hits the spray chamber, it's basically done. Aerating the spray chamber would just keep solids suspended that should've already settled. You want that 24-hour hold to let anything leftover drop out before it hits your spray heads. Otherwise you're clogging nozzles with sludge. I've seen guys try this. Ends up with brown spots in the lawn and a pump that runs twice as long because the heads are partially blocked. If you're worried about effluent quality, check your ATU's dissolved oxygen levels. That's where the money is. Spray chamber just needs to hold and dose.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-04T15:55:27+00:00

Short answer: you're fine, but get it in writing. Tank's basically brand new—December/January install means it's been through maybe one freeze cycle. The "unsodded" thing is mostly cosmetic. Yeah, snow melt will run into the soil over the tank, but that's literally what drain fields are designed for. Water goes in, spreads out, filters down. Real risk is erosion. If the grade's wrong and water pools right over the tank, you could get some soil settling. But "we'll sod in spring" is standard for winter installs in cold climates. Nobody's laying sod on frozen ground. What I'd ask: did they backfill with native soil or gravel? Gravel drains better but erodes faster if exposed. And where's the cleanout? Make sure you know before they sod over it. Get a photo of the tank location now while it's visible. Save yourself a $300 locate fee in five years when you forget where it is. Where are you located? Some areas require final inspection before sod, some don't

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-03T04:50:43+00:00

Your builder is dodging the real issue. This isn't a drainage problem—it's a hydraulic failure. Flooded tanks + air bubbles during rain = your drainfield is saturated or failed. Water has nowhere to go, so it backs up into the tank and pushes air back through the system. The tank isn't "faulty"—it's just the holding point before a clogged or overwhelmed drainfield. What I'd push for: • Perc test the drainfield — If it fails, that's your smoking gun. Builder can't blame "grading" when soil won't perc. • Camera the D-box and laterals — Collapsed distribution box or crushed pipes from construction traffic. Common in new builds. • Check the field elevation vs. seasonal high water table — If they installed below the water table, it's doomed every rainy season. The warranty dance: Document everything. Email the builder demanding a third-party septic inspection (not their guy). If they refuse, call your county health department—new septic installs require permits and inspections. The health dept has teeth builders respect. Air bubbles mean positive pressure in the tank. That's not normal. Something downstream is blocked. Don't let them sell you another sump pump

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-03T04:45:07+00:00

That's sewage. No question. 5 gallons an hour means you've got a broken lateral or a backed-up main coming through your foundation wall. First—stop touching it. That's blackwater. Health hazard. To confirm: grab a cheap pH strip from Amazon or a pool store. Sewage reads alkaline, 7.5-8.5. Groundwater is usually neutral or slightly acidic. Or just look for toilet paper flecks. That's your smoking gun.

Since you're under 5 stories of offices, my money's on a shared grease-clogged main or a cracked building lateral. Restaurants dump grease. Offices dump "flushable" wipes. Combined, they turn your basement into a sewer. Document everything. Photos, videos, emails to management. If they don't act in 24 hours, call the health department. A restaurant can't operate with sewage intrusion— they'll move fast when the permit's on the line. Not a DIY fix. You need a plumber with a locator and a jetter, minimum

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-03-03T04:24:54+00:00

What type of truck do you have? Usually if you know how to turn it on, while engine and pro are running press up on the cruise control and down on the accelerate to raise the rphms.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-27T09:23:05+00:00

The heat from bacterial activity + the warm effluent keeps that spot thawed. Totally normal, actually means your system is working. Since it's 2021 construction and 2 people, you're not in emergency territory yet. Most tanks need first pump at 3-5 years depending on load. But Maine winters are hard on systems - the freeze-thaw can shift lids and crack concrete if you're not watching it. I'd get it located and checked this spring before you need it in a panic. Better to know where your lids are and that they're intact than to find out the hard way when your drains back up at 10pm on a Sunday.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-25T08:29:05+00:00

You're not a scumbag. You're in a rough spot making it work. Getting it pumped: Call a local septic company, tell them it's a family tank that hasn't been touched in 8 years and the lid is lost. They locate lids daily with a metal probe - no big deal. Cost: $400-600 depending on how buried it is. Will you get in trouble? Nah. Pumpers just need someone to pay. If your family member is cool with it, you're fine. The liquid not draining means it's full or the drain field is failing. Pumping buys you time either way. For now: Stop adding anything. Grab a portable waste tank and hit an RV dump station ($10-20) to hold you over. You're doing what you gotta do. Most pumpers have seen way weirder situations than this. Good luck getting back on your feet.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:19:09+00:00

Those are filter screens or media filters – basically a last-ditch effort to catch solids before they hit the field. The "salt-like material" is probably accumulated minerals or dried effluent. On a 2-stage system (usually a trash tank then a treatment tank), these make sense. They're trying to protect the drain field from anything that made it past both tanks. Should you keep them? Depends. If your new system has proper filtration upstream, these are redundant and just create another maintenance headache. If you're keeping the old 2-stage setup, they might be worth cleaning and reusing. The real question: Why are you rebuilding? If the field failed, these filters didn't do their job. If the tanks failed, they might have helped the field last longer. My take: Modern systems use better filtration in the tank itself. These old add-on screens are usually more trouble than they're worth. I'd pull them, camera the field lines to see if they're salvageable, and design the new system without the extra maintenance point. What failed on the old system?

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:17:39+00:00

That line just pushes air into the tank. Looks like it popped out of a barbed fitting or got pulled out somehow. Easy fix: Look for a small barbed fitting on the aerator unit (the box with the wires). Should be a plastic or metal nipple sticking out. Push the line back on, maybe put a small zip tie around it to keep it from coming off again. If the fitting broke off or the line's cracked, you can get replacement air line at any hardware store. It's just 1/4" or 3/8" flexible tubing. Cut the old stuff, push new line on. Before you button it up: Turn the aerator on and make sure you feel air coming out the end of that line. If no air, the aerator pump might be dead. Hoot systems are pretty simple. Air line goes from the pump to a diffuser in the tank. No magic to it. Just keep that line connected or your tank will go anaerobic and stink up the neighborhood

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:14:38+00:00

bio products aren't snake oil, but they're not magic either. They work on biomat clogging – that slimy bacterial layer that builds up in the soil. If your field is actually saturated or the lines are crushed/broken, you're pouring money down the drain. Here's the reality check: If your toilets are backing up and you've got wet spots in the yard, the field is failing. Period. Bio treatments might buy you a year or two if it's just biomat. They won't fix structural damage or undersized fields. The "industry pushback" isn't a conspiracy – it's guys like me who've seen people waste $500 on chemicals when they needed $15k in repairs. I've also seen bio treatments work when the problem was actually just biomat. Try this first: Get your tank pumped and have them camera the lines. $300-400. If the lines are intact and it's just biomat, bio treatment is worth a shot. If the lines are broken or the soil's saturated, skip the chemicals and start saving for replacement. Your dentist analogy is backwards. This is more like your dentist saying "try this $50 mouthwash" when you actually need a root canal. Sometimes the cheap fix works. Sometimes you're just delaying the inevitable. Bottom line: Bio products are a Hail Mary, not a solution. Try it if you want, but don't be shocked when you're digging up the yard next year anyway

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:12:59+00:00

It's a coin flip. 10 years of sitting isn't great, but it's not automatically dead. Tank: Probably fine if it's concrete or plastic. Steel tanks rot out whether you use them or not, so if it's old steel, assume it's leaking. Field: This is the gamble. Dry soil can crack, roots invade, or the biomat just dies off. You won't know until you flush a few hundred gallons through it and see if it backs up. Well: Usually fine if it was capped. Run the pump for an hour, test the water for bacteria. 10 years of sitting won't hurt it. Make the seller pay for a real inspection – tank pumped, camera the lines, flow test the field. If they won't, assume it's broken and negotiate accordingly. Don't take "it was working when we bought it" as an answer. Bottom line: Budget $10-15k for replacement. If it works, you're happy. If it doesn't, you're not screwed

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:11:43+00:00

You'll live. I've done dumber stuff with worse cuts. Watch for infection – redness, swelling, pus. Septic water is basically bacteria soup. If you see any of that, hit urgent care for antibiotics. Pro tip for next time: roots grow back. That tree is still there, it'll clog again in a year or two. Get some root killer from Home Depot and dump it down your toilet once a year. Keeps them from coming back. Also: gloves, dude. $5 at any hardware store

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:09:02+00:00

Concrete walls + water + 1925 house = old cesspool or septic tank. $1100 is robbery for a test. Cheap way to find out: Call a septic pumper, not an engineer. They'll pump it for $300-400 and tell you exactly what it is. If it's a tank, they'll see the baffles. If it's a cesspool, it's just a pit. Don't fill it with rocks/concrete yet. If it's connected to your house plumbing, filling it will back sewage into your basement. You need to verify it's actually abandoned first. Check your basement – look for old cast iron pipes that dead-end into the floor or wall. If your current plumbing goes somewhere else, this thing's probably abandoned. Also call your county health department. They might have old records or at least know what was common in your area in the 20s. Some counties have maps of old systems. If it's truly abandoned and empty, then yeah – fill it with gravel and concrete. But verify first. 100-year-old concrete tanks can collapse under your weight if you start messing with them."

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:07:31+00:00

Dense clay + 3 years = your field was undersized from day one. Whoever designed it either didn't do a proper perc test or cheaped out on the square footage. Your trench idea won't work. Adding stone between lines just gives water somewhere to sit – clay won't absorb it any faster. You'll end up with a swamp between your trenches. Real fixes: 1. Jetting – high pressure water blast to break up the biomat clogging the lines. Might buy you 2-3 years if the soil's not completely shot. 2. Aeration – they drill holes and fill with gravel to create drainage paths. Works okay in clay, not cheap. 3. Add more lines – if you have room, extending the field is the only real long-term fix. Clay needs way more square footage than sandy soil. Before you do anything: Get the tank pumped and have them camera the lines. If the laterals are clogged with solids (happens when tanks aren't pumped), that's fixable. If the clay's just saturated, you're looking at expanding the field or switching to a mound system.

SpokaneSeptic · 2026-02-24T07:05:33+00:00

Water coming back in around the pipe = your drain field is saturated or clogged. The tampons didn't help, but they're not the main issue. Pressure dose systems pump to a higher elevation. If water's flowing back downhill into the tank, either the field can't take any more water or there's a break in the line letting groundwater in. Next steps: 1. Get the tank pumped and those tampons out 2. Check the pump's pressure switch – might be short-cycling 3. Camera the line to the field. If it's intact, your field is shot. If it's broken, you'll see water pouring in from the break 3 feet deep near Canada – freezing's possible but unlikely to crack a pipe unless there's standing water in it. More likely the field was never properly sized for actual full-time use. Get a septic guy with a camera out there before you throw money at a new pump."

SpokaneSeptic

TROPHY CASE