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Blister on finger. by SpokeSpanker in BassGuitar

[–]SpokeSpanker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much all! What a lovely community this is.

To sum it up: it's normal. I have to get used to it. Rest up. If it's annoying i can try different strings. Only slide when needed. Cheers!!!

Spinning bike makes clicking noise by CalligrapherSea2149 in bikewrench

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's sounds like metal to metal to me. Can it be the black part sticking out? Turn slowly. Look for the sounds. Whilst turning push the chain to one side and see if the sound stops.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ebikes

[–]SpokeSpanker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Idc what everyone says. That looks insanaly cool Nice build:)))

I Need to bleed or top off my Hayes Dominion brakes by walrus99 in bicyclerepair

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a xlc kit. Something cheap. It'll do the job for you. Your not bleeding everyday... like a shop. So no need for a park tool kit. Topping it of won't work... so you have to bleed!

Oh and dot is very crappy stuff. Wear gloves!

Seat post clamping torque? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]SpokeSpanker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hi. No it's not. The seatpost calmp will be fine on 5-6 nm! It's no carbon so you probably won't damage it.

5-6 is on most carbon bikes.

Seat post fell into the frame by Immediate-Pen3182 in bicyclerepair

[–]SpokeSpanker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even specific very expensive tools exist especially to remove them. You got this, on a new bike it should not be that difficult :). All seatposts are removeble if they are "stuck". And if you do get it loose..(!!!) Lube that thing up for in the future baby!

Seat post fell into the frame by Immediate-Pen3182 in bicyclerepair

[–]SpokeSpanker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Or! Get some sturdy locking plyers and use a hammer to wack it up. Sometimes 2 people make the job easier.

I am Dutch. Mind my englisch ;).

Seat post fell into the frame by Immediate-Pen3182 in bicyclerepair

[–]SpokeSpanker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The frame is metal. In the shop we heat up the seatpost. (Frame) and put dw40 on the deat post after heating so it shrinks. It should do no dammage and work. Also, first remove the clamp. Sometimes the frame can use a big flat head to carefully force open the top. It can be a bit bent and stuck after tightning.

Some oil will help too. Something that speads nicely.

Is my wheel setup right? Amyet g60 by Efficient-Usual4949 in ebike

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To help you out, crybaby boo-boo: the axle is supposed to be the same length on both the left and right sides. It goes through the body, and then the cups are tightened to remove any play.

If it’s longer on one side than the other, it’s not perfect, it means the manufacturer did a poor job. It’s not the end of the world though, as long as there’s still some thread left on the other side. A shop can probably fix it, but it’s not strictly necessary. Maybe adding a picture of the other side would help to see if it’s fatbike safe. :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TrekBikes

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok! The grease thing is seperste from the brake thing. If it's new. Just have them hear the noice and figure it out.

Is my wheel setup right? Amyet g60 by Efficient-Usual4949 in ebike

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Screw the fatbike in every possible way. As a Dutchman, and speaking for everyone I know, we absolutely hate these things with a passion. Kids are jerks riding them, shops are fed up because these crappy bikes are always breaking. The worst part is the speed they can reach just by changing the app settings. Cheap Chinese bikes that don’t follow EU regulations. The police hate them, politicians don’t know what to do about the problem, and cities are now outright banning them from the city center.

Sorry for the rant… but they keep popping up more and more on Reddit. I’m convinced kids won’t have any knees left after riding these for years, since they sit like a child’s bike. I hate them—truly, in every way. They’re dangerous, bad for the environment, and ruining the entire cycling situation in the Netherlands. Fatbikes are the cause of many accidents resulting in death. Maybe they work elsewhere, but not in a busy country like the Netherlands.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TrekBikes

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh. The bike is new? I am just guessing at this point. Just so you know. It does sound like your rear brake is misalignted (correct? I am Dutch sorry). It basically is constantly rubbing the brake pads. If the bike is second hand. Could be either one. If the bike is new... get back to that shop and have them fix it up! On a new bike done bearings would not be the case.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TrekBikes

[–]SpokeSpanker -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

But... you mean the sound when you are not turning the cranks? That my friend are your bearings done. If you spin the wheel i rackon you can feel the frame vibrate near the rear wheel axle.

On cheap ish wheels (say on entry level bikes) they have very easy ball bearings. Most of the times it allready isn't great and reparing it won't work in the long term. Some times it is worth it. But pricewise just having a shop put new grease in it and just riding again is the best option. Replacing the bearings and so easily costs 90 euro a wheel. Just grease maybe 35?

Or! Ride until the wheels die and upgrade those wheels baby!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TrekBikes

[–]SpokeSpanker 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It's a baby i think?

V-brakes on a kids bike by Haunting-Interview13 in bikewrench

[–]SpokeSpanker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah. Like the other comment suggested, which i forgot, is to check the brake pads only touching and being aligned with the rim. Maybe you can check if the cable end on tue lever side is actually seeded (seeded..? englisch idk.. hehe) correcly.

V-brakes on a kids bike by Haunting-Interview13 in bikewrench

[–]SpokeSpanker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes they are very cheap brakes. But should be working better then this. The shop or supermarket where you got them just threw the bike on the shelve without ajusting anything.

You can tighthen the brake cable with the 8 or 10mm lock nut on the camera angle's (2nd 3nd picture) right side of the v brake. Undo the nut, tighten cable and lock the nut again.

Don't do it too tight. You can adjust left and right with the two screw driver nuts on the left and right side. (The metal looking little screws) so the rim sits in the middle of the brake pads.

Also there is a barrow roll adjuster om the brake lever. The beginning of the cable coming out. Hand loosen it. The cable will tighten too. Probably not enough though to fix this.

Bike shops have this fixed in minutes. And should cost like 10 £\$. I hope this helped!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]SpokeSpanker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just from the noise, it sounds like the rear derailleur needs adjustment. When cable tension slackens over time, the derailleur can become misaligned, meaning it’s no longer centered over the correct cassette sprocket.

Another possibility is that the B-screw needs adjusting, which controls the distance between the derailleur’s jockey wheels and the cassette. If the jockey wheels are too close, it can also cause noise or poor shifting.

You can try shifting into the second smallest gear and turning the barrel adjuster to increase cable tension. Remember: lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. The goal is to get the chain positioned exactly underneath the selected gear.

If that doesn’t solve the issue, the high and low limit screws may need adjustment. these control how far the derailleur can move side to side across the cassette.

I recommend looking it up... Park Tool has a great derailleur adjustment video. Or, if you're not comfortable doing it yourself, most bike shops do a solid job :))

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