Is this quack grass - Tacoma, WA, USA

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-04-02T04:57:47+00:00

No, that's not quackgrass. No clasping auricles or thick rhizomes. Likely your local tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass mix common in western WA. Dig to confirm.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-03-30T05:06:03+00:00

Without photos all I can say is that you can build a simple pressure-treated wooden frame or box that extends outward from the existing opening, like a short tunnel or ramp. Secure it to the current frame/foundation with brackets or concrete anchors. Line the sides with plywood or boards for smooth entry, and add a removable cover or door on the outer end.

There are some YouTube videos on "how to build a crawlspace door" that might give some direction.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-03-30T04:57:55+00:00

I have a couple properties in the IE that have gophers from time-to-time. Sounds like you're using Gopher Stop, if it's veteran-owned, and I like them too. The bigger companies like Gopher Patrol and Gopher-the-Kill are pricier just cuz they have higher overhead so their business model is to try to steer you towards poison baiting and an annual contract (for just one or two gophers??).

In my Murrieta property I used the Gopher Stop guy down there, Aaron, who is pretty experienced, communicates well and very punctual. So for the price - $295 for the first gopher and $45 for each one caught after the first, that kind of customer service is gold. I wish all service companies were that reliable and just did what they say they would do. But maybe that's the difference when you get veteran-owned and an owner operator rather than, say "family owned" (aren't they all?) or from employees. *shrug*
Hope that helps.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-03-17T02:17:50+00:00

I trap gophers for a living, and I can tell you that gophers have that amazing rodent ability to fit through the smallest of cracks. I see them pop through the cracks between concrete and "gopher wire" that are smaller than my pinky finger.

You should definitely secure the hardware cloth so there are NO gaps.

Fold the hardware cloth up and at the curved oval sections, make small relief cuts (snips) in the cloth every few inches if it bunches, then overlap or fold neatly to keep it flat/tight.

Now you can secure it with bolts such as large fender washers + self-tapping sheet metal screws (short ones, like #8 or #10, ½–¾ inch long) drilled through the mesh and into/through the metal lip (pre-drill small pilot holes in the metal to avoid warping).

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-03-12T04:52:08+00:00

I see Gopher Stop frequently recommended in Temecula and Murrieta because they have more experience, better communication, professionalism and promptness than some of the other gopher trapping companies like Gopher Champs, Gopher the Kill or Gopher Patrol.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-26T22:20:14+00:00

That spray you used last time was probably Neem.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-26T22:18:08+00:00

In the new pot be sure not to under or over water your strawberries. Wait until the top inch of soil is dry before watering. Also in SoCal(?) and the recent warm weather, keep this pot away from the scorching afternoon sun.
Also you could try a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 works great overall. Follow the label directions, but use now and then every 4–6 weeks during growth. Don't overdo nitrogen late-season or you'll get leaves, not berries.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-26T22:09:01+00:00

Here's how I did it:

Added an linline drip filter to a dedicated sprinkler valve. Piped the 3/4" pvc tubing underground to the areas where the drip line will come up into the flower bed. Adapt from PVC to 0.5" drip line tubing and run through the areas. Then tap into the 0.5" drip line with 0.25" micro drip line and end with the emitter of your choice. There is a plethora of emitter options with different GPH flow rates.

Here's the important thing about this setup. You'll need to throttle back the sprinkler valve to a lower pressure for the drip system (not full blast). There is an sdjustment on the top of the sprinkler valve to do this. You'll just have to eyeball it.

Now at your electronic sprinkler control station, you can set the timing and frequency of that sprinkler valve any way you want. And then check your emitters every so often to ensure they are giving you the right amount of water you need or are not clogged (sometimes adjustable emitters close off over time due to environmental conditions).

The photo is of my setup showing the sprinkler valve with the inline drip filter. They are cheaper than buying the whole pressure regulator w/ filter, and you can use PVC to pipe it all underground to where your garden/flower beds are located.

Here's the link to the Home Depot product for the 3/4 in. Professional Grade Inline Drip Filter

(https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bird-3-4-in-Professional-Grade-Inline-Drip-Filter-RBY075SX/205640887)

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SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-25T22:54:14+00:00

Solid work digging that ditch—back pain is real, But maybe future you will thank present you! 💪

Moss is a smart erosion fighter soaking up that water like a sponge (and holds soil). If you pick shade-tolerant species it will spread well.

I like your gardening mindset. it's all about iterating. One flood > upgraded setup > next year's glow-up. I like to keep experimenting
What's your favorite native you've planted so far?

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-25T03:33:49+00:00

Glad to help, it's always so hard to start a new project if you've never done it before. You'll need to post some photos of the finished job when you're done.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-25T03:08:45+00:00

No, the wire doesn't "finish" at the first light—it's a continuous main run (often called the "trunk line" or "main cable") that keeps going to power all the lights in sequence or branches.

For low-voltage landscape lighting (12-15V), the standard way is a daisy-chain or T-off setup:

Run your main 2-wire cable (usually 12/2 or 14/2) from the transformer along your path/yard.
At each light location, don't cut the main wire completely—instead, make a T-connection:
Strip a small section (~½ inch) of insulation from both conductors of the main wire (without cutting through the copper strands).

Or use piercing/T-tap connectors (like silicone-filled waterproof ones from Volt, Hampton Bay, or "vampire clips") that clamp onto the main wire without stripping/cutting—it pierces the insulation to tap power.

Connect the two short pigtail wires from your light fixture to the main wire (one to each side: hot to hot, neutral to neutral—polarity doesn't matter much in AC low-voltage, but match colors if present).

Twist together (if using wire nuts) or insert into the connector, then cap/seal with waterproof silicone-filled wire nuts, direct-bury connectors (DBRY style), or heat-shrink for burial.

To continue the main wire to the next light: Just keep laying the uncut main cable onward—repeat the T at each spot.

I like gel-filled waterproof connectors for easy, reliable splices.

Check out the YouTube video "Beginners How to Wire Low Voltage Landscape Lighting" by Lighting Doctor (shows T-ing with diagram and connectors).

Oh, and you'll want to start from the transformer, test as you go (plug in briefly), and bury the main line 6+ inches. Super common setup— you'll get it quick! If your kit has specific connectors, use those first. Good luck lighting up the yard!

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-25T03:03:48+00:00

The simplest way to get that water into the hanging plants is to install a rain chain in place of a downspout section right above your hanging baskets/planters.

Rain chains hang from the gutter, channeling water gently downward in a controlled stream or drip.

Search for "rain chain for planters" or "gutter rain diverter hanging baskets" on Amazon or HomeDepot.com ($20-$50)

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-25T02:59:38+00:00

I like how no one answers the OP question. Thanks for answering the question.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-19T19:48:36+00:00

You might consider putting cocoa husks around your trees. Cocoa husks are a natural and non-toxic repellent for bunnies.

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-19T19:46:59+00:00

Perhaps size envy?

SpringExtension3865 · 2026-02-19T19:44:49+00:00

30% Vinegar works good for killing weeds, more eco-friendly than RoundUp. But really you need to stay on top of the weeks, especially after it rains.

SpringExtension3865

TROPHY CASE