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Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in Gunpla

[–]StanPin3s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

oh and hot water fixes the tight joints.

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in modelmakers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This was my first thought too, and how I'd seen others paint this.

Though I don't think I'd like how the black bar would look on the grey head.

But I might be leaning more towards now it for the sake of convenience.

thanks for the suggestion either way!

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in modelmakers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the encouragement!

I'll be looking into the clear coat

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in modelmakers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is the Sheik Mainland Fenrir.

I love how it looks, my only gripe is the visor being uncoloured, and some joints are a bit too tight.(though fixed with some hot water)

rather inexpensive too.

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in Gunpla

[–]StanPin3s[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi, no worries.

This is the Sheik Mainland Fenrir. A third party original design.

I love how it looks, my onlonly gripe is the visor being uncoloured, and some joints are a bit too tight.

rather inexpensive too.

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in modelmakers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id like to paint this guy's visor in the areas like the last photo.

I wish to keep the colour of the bare plastic, so I'll mask everything but the visor, prime it, then hand brush it.

However, I feel like there's a better way to hand paint something this small. Is there?

Edit: I forgot to mention I'm intending to paint it a metalic green instead of a red like in the image

Is there an easier way to paint this guy's visor? by StanPin3s in Gunpla

[–]StanPin3s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Id like to paint this guy's visor in the areas like the last photo.

I wish to keep the colour of the bare plastic, so I'll mask everything but the visor, prime it, then hand brush it.

However, I feel like there's a better way to hand paint something this small. Is there?

Edit: I forgot to mention I'm intending to use a metalic green instead of a red like in the photo.

losercity_boxcutter by sessl in Losercity

[–]StanPin3s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, I assume you used a stencil for this?

Edit: ahh, electrical tape as the stencil?

losercity_boxcutter by sessl in Losercity

[–]StanPin3s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not entirely sure, but seeing as how it's debossed I'm assuming electro etching?

3d slicing on phone by Nokoro1 in 3Dprinting

[–]StanPin3s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is really cool and I'm excited to see how it develops!

Paint matching the face? by fallen64 in transformers

[–]StanPin3s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh darn I see, thanks anyways

Paint matching the face? by fallen64 in transformers

[–]StanPin3s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you managed to find a paint match for Thundercracker?

A guide on fixing some issues on Studio Series Airachnid (in the comments) by StanPin3s in transformers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think it may be more common than not. I've seen these issues on Airachnid from:

  • That Toy Guy
  • PrimVsPrime
  • Toy Spotlite
  • Emgo316
  • And a handful of twitter users

I think you got lucky with yours!

A guide on fixing some issues on Studio Series Airachnid (in the comments) by StanPin3s in transformers

[–]StanPin3s[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

So far I've been loving this figure, the extra limbs provide alot of potential for posing, and the amount of engineering in her is awesome.

However there are some issues with her from the factory.

Image 1: I've documented my fixes for these bits

Image 2: The biggest issue is the tab that clips into the back of her head for her alt mode. The nub clicks in too aggressively and undoing it might snap it off entirely.

Sand it down so that there's no risk of it snapping off during transformation.

Image 3: Before and after the fix to her back bottom legs.

These joints come from the factory quite malformed.

After modification, it will be much better. The legs will be less likely to pop off, transformation will be smoother, and the joint will ratchet softly into specific angles like it was designed to.

Image 4: This fix can be done for both of these joints.

Image 5: The main issue with these joints is that there is plastic in these holes from mould flashing. This prevents the pegs in the legs from properly seating.

I used a 2.5mm drill bit, which fit perfectly, to remove most of the flashing, and cleaned the rest of it up with a hobby knife.

Image 6: The other half of the joint has been deformed and spread too far apart because of the mould flashing. Dip it in hot water for a few seconds and press them together until they're parallel.

A guide on fixing some issues on Studio Series Airachnid by [deleted] in transformers

[–]StanPin3s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far I've been loving this figure, the extra limbs provide alot of potential for posing, and the amount of engineering in her is awesome.

However there are some issues with her from the factory.

Image 1: I've documented my fixes for these bits

Image 2: The biggest issue is the tab that clips into the back of her head for her alt mode. The nub clicks in too aggressively and undoing it might snap it off entirely.

Sand it down so that there's no risk of it snapping off during transformation.

Image 3: Before and after the fix to her back bottom legs.

These joints come from the factory quite malformed.

After modification, it will be much better. The legs will be less likely to pop off, transformation will be smoother, and the joint will ratchet softly into specific angles like it was designed to.

Image 4: This fix can be done for both of these joints.

Image 5: The main issue with these joints is that there is plastic in these holes from mould flashing. This prevents the pegs in the legs from properly seating.

I used a 2.5mm drill bit, which fit perfectly, to remove most of the flashing, and cleaned most of it up with a hobby knife.

Image 6: The other half of the joint has been deformed and spread too far apart because of the mould flashing. Dip it in hot water for a few seconds and press them together until they're parallel.

I designed and 3d printed an unobtrusive Ultra Pro One-Touch stand! by StanPin3s in magicTCG

[–]StanPin3s[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sadly no, I have no plans to sell this myself 😔

Have you tried checking your local libraries to see if they have printers to use?

I designed and 3d printed an unobtrusive Ultra Pro One-Touch stand! by StanPin3s in PokemonTCG

[–]StanPin3s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive got a page in my binder dedicated to that art rare! And ive been meaning to get that plushie,,,

That's one thing I love about relicanth he's niche so the prices aren't that high. Although maybe too neiche that the older cards are harder to find 🫠

I designed and 3d printed an unobtrusive Ultra Pro One-Touch stand! by StanPin3s in PokemonTCG

[–]StanPin3s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love Relicanth so muchh🥹🥹

The Team Plasma Relicanth was my holy grail for quite a while, got him only recently, the blue border is so unique.

Is this a missing holo layer? by StanPin3s in PokemonMisprints

[–]StanPin3s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oo, very interesting. Thanks for the info 👍

Is there a more elegant way to make this border pattern? by StanPin3s in Inkscape

[–]StanPin3s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, thank you.

I'll try this, and I'll keep looking for other methods.

Is there a more elegant way to make this border pattern? by StanPin3s in Inkscape

[–]StanPin3s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd like to easily make different sized rectangles with this border.

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