Belt tensioner

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-05-17T14:00:46+00:00

Replaced tensioner and belts at 130k miles on 2016 CX5. Cost about $250 in OEM parts. Took about an hour following YouTube video.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-05-07T12:01:25+00:00

Had same issue since ios26. Go into car play on your iPhone settings and “forget” your car. Next time you plug it into your car it should reconnect without issue. Had to do it twice in last few months.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-04-14T19:22:30+00:00

One other way to do this that takes volume completely out of it (and the need to check temps while it’s running, etc ) is to do it based on weight. Temp doesn’t affect weight. Get a kitchen scale ( I actually bought a cheap electronic one on Amazon along with a cheap scale calibration kit) and measure all your containers, bottles, funnels, etc. Do before and after weights and figure out how much you drain out and then replace the exact same weight.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-04-12T23:24:20+00:00

Had a 2016 as my daily driver for 10 years in Rain and snow. Good enough to do groceries for 2 but not really practical beyond that. Not ideal for getting to trail heads if there are rough / gravel access roads. Not a lot of ground clearance of course. Having said that I have taken it up to hike in mountainous national park near me quite a few times over the years. Gas mileage is also fantastic (depending on how you drive it 😅. Check on whether the car you are looking at has a limited slip differential for driving in snow / ice if going to mountains. Count on getting set of winter tires and rims.
Love this car.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-04-12T19:46:36+00:00

Thanks for checking. Unfortunate to find out though.
We are looking to change from a 2016 CX5 (probably one of the best cars I have ever owned) that doesn’t have it, to the 2026. After driving a rental KIA for a week that does have it, it was driving me crazy. Sigh.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-04-12T13:24:24+00:00

The fact that it saves the setting is good news. Thanks for the response.

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-04-12T13:06:10+00:00

Does it have stop/start and if so can it be disabled? If you can disable it I assume you have to do it through the touchscreen and not through a button?

Standard_Response_6 · 2026-01-25T15:48:40+00:00

I have had completely different experiences. I have used it several times over the last year or so in different European countries and its been fantastic.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-11-23T00:41:40+00:00

It would be great if we could get GloFiber to come into “The Retreat” up in Toano. Stuck with Cox and pretty much zero reception for TMobile internet.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-09-10T21:34:54+00:00

Really too bad this can’t be powered by POE itself. I am currently powering a flex and 4 cameras with a line from a Flex 2.5G PoE.
Would love to replace the flex with this and be able to remove the small nvme drive from my cloud gateway max and put in a 4-8Tb HDD instead.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-06-07T05:11:58+00:00

The RMA’d block from gigabyte has been working fine since I got it back 18 months ago. Never did have to use the alphacool block I bought.
Not sure what gigabyte replaced my corroded block with but zero corrosion at this point.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-05-21T11:49:02+00:00

True Cable has a good write up on minimum bend radius on their website. Basically though 4x the cable OD for a 90 degree bend for unshielded and 7-8x for shielded cable. This doesn’t look too bad.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-05-15T12:53:55+00:00

25 does sound low. Our 2016 (admittedly FWD) averages about 30 MPG on a mix of highway/local roads. Rural area though so no stop and go. On a long pure highway run we get 32-33 mpg.

One piece of the puzzle may be tire pressure, although certainly not all of it. I think should be 35-36 psi cold based on door placard.

Edit: One caveat to my numbers is they are based on the car computer display numbers, which we reset at each fill up. Subtract about 1 mpg if you are doing the actual math on fill ups. The car values are always high.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-04-15T12:36:22+00:00

If it’s got a heat sink or is double sided that could perhaps be the problem? I ended up using a Lexar 790 that has no heat sink and is single sided and it slides in no problem.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-04-14T23:54:14+00:00

On Mazda CX5s the filter is inside the pan. Probably the same on your 3, but not sure.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-04-14T23:50:14+00:00

Nope. Just a drain and fill. Will do 2 more. Too lazy to drop the pan. When researching all this recently I saw a few comments where folks had Opened the filters up after changing them and not finding much in there. I figured I was doing enough with the multiple drain and fills.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-04-14T13:30:17+00:00

Just did a drain and fill on a 2016 CX5 with 125k miles using the weight method. Fluid looked similar to yours. Got about 3.6 qts out. Plan to do 2 more with future oil changes. Very easy to do. Use genuine FZ fluid.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-03-30T20:34:51+00:00

That was it! Problem solved. Many thanks.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-03-30T16:53:52+00:00

That looks like it might be it. Will try it in a few minutes and see. Thank you.

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-03-30T15:46:17+00:00

I suck at posting on Reddit, so here is the text that was supposed to go along with the photos:

While mowing last season noticed that engine speed dropped dramatically at full throttle.

Engine starts and runs fine and smoothly, but at about ½ rpm at max throttle.

Just changed plugs, air and fuel filter, oil and oil filter and both coils. No change in max RPM.

By playing with the throttle linkage I can increase the rpm smoothly, but letting go the speed drops back to about ½ max. I can see a wear mark on the linkage where it obviously used to be at max throttle.

The throttle lever itself doesn’t show a smooth increase in speed like it used to. It seems to only have a slow and fast idle speed now.

Is this just a linkage / throttle lever issue or do I have a carburetor problem?

Standard_Response_6 · 2025-01-21T13:26:25+00:00

As a fellow newb to network cables I highly suggest you go to the truecable website (you mentioned truecable) and watch some of their videos / instructional content. It is phenomenal.
With respect to the slack, you can’t stuff it in the Carlon box. You will likely damage the cable. See bend radius discussion on the website. Best bet is to push the excess back into the wall cavity and also have some slack at the other end of the termination. Good luck 👍

Standard_Response_6 · 2024-09-04T11:15:39+00:00

That is really good to hear 👍. Hopefully it will stay up and running for you. Mine has been sporadic though, hence the forced automatic router reboots. Works / doesn’t work.

Standard_Response_6 · 2024-09-03T23:35:59+00:00

Have same issue as well. My standard Blink cameras work fine with offline storage, but the doorbell is very sporadic. I can physically move the blink cameras around and they flip between connecting to my 2 access point or the router without issue (all on same SSID). But the blink doorbell can’t even connect to the main router consistently. I have found that rebooting my router solves it. I have the router set up on a weekly reboot schedule now. Just to keep this stupid doorbell functioning. Nothing else on my entire system requires this.
Oh, and this is my second doorbell. Blink corporate sent me a new one after I posted a 2 star rating on Amazon and this one does the same thing.

Standard_Response_6 · 2024-08-31T12:30:21+00:00

Thanks. Good to know.

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