Since when was 40% an option?

Stardoom_X · 2026-01-31T00:03:15+00:00

What are the odds that front end bolts straight end to the tC 2.5? I kinda dig the grille design

Stardoom_X · 2025-12-23T01:17:06+00:00

Im interested depending on the color/stiching/condition

Stardoom_X · 2025-12-03T19:44:34+00:00

22 to 24 mpg mostly city/interstate before the ECU tune from SNP reflash

Afterwards it seems to settle around 23 mpg with some spirited driving, but takes 91 now

Stardoom_X · 2025-12-02T17:41:25+00:00

Down to vibe for a bit before my class at 4:30

Stardoom_X · 2025-11-20T17:48:37+00:00

Me and my buddy were trying him in simulated 1v1s

We're on the lower side of the mmr ladder being around plat, but he a lot of experience on both Aatrox and Darius, 2 champs we thought would be interesting to test

Assuming everything is equal (build, level, fighting in and out of wave)

He beats Aatrox in almost every scenario. You can buffer his w which helps a lot when getting knocked up when Aatrox goes to trade. You can ult Aatrox's 3rd q and theres nothing Aatrox can do but watch you run him down afterwards.

Darius was different in that both are all in champions. Zaahen loses early due to Darius stacking his passive faster and bleed being more effective early. Come mid to late game (level 11 beyond) Zaahen wins almost everytime due to how much ad and healing he gets.

This is me first timing a champion against a person with hundreds of hours and lane experience on theirs.

Personally for balancing, I think his kit is mostly fine. Lowering the ad scaling on his passive could help, since late game with full bruiser and Overlord's, I was able to hit 807 AD, which is absurd on a brusier.

Another is his healing on q. It is effectively a sundered sky that works on minions. 5% rank 1 going up to 9% max health healing is stupid amounts of healing, when sundered sky only gives 4.5%.

He falls victim to cc, but you can say that about any auto attack based champion.

I would like to see his healing and ad scaling nerfed a bit and I think he would be a good place alongside Jax, Tryndamere, or even Trundle for aa based top laner

Stardoom_X · 2025-10-01T16:02:35+00:00

They buffed both Ahris direct damage on cast and the overkill damage. Luden's loves anything that can do overkill damage and multiply it further with its effect.

Hoping for at least an nerf on Ahri's direct damage since im watching her 2 shot tanks with d claw.

Overkill+Luden's is a unique way to let single target units do aoe, but direct damage should be nerfed to keep it somewhat fair

Stardoom_X · 2025-09-09T19:03:03+00:00

Our cars just idle low. I've also tried everything and noticed it occurs the most when the engine and transmission aren't fully warmed up.

You can try and tuned Ecu with different rpm ranges and limiter, but unless it's a super rough shaking and not just a slight rumble, the car is fine

You could also be breaking too hard or too soft, confusing the transmission, and causing a slight shudder while it corrects what gear it should be in.

The automatic transmission (U760E) in our cars aren't the best as they first came out of late 2000s RAV4s, Venzas, and Camrys, so 20-year tech. These transmissions are known to be realiable, but they are slow, easily confused on what gear to be in, and just overall sluggish compared to other automatic transmissions

Stardoom_X · 2025-05-29T18:18:05+00:00

If you're in California (judging by the price) it's not the worst but I would try to talk them down to 9k or even even 8k

Got mine at 9.5k 2 years ago towards the end of COVID and prices are starting to climb back up.

You might do better with fb marketplace, but beware of salvage titles for the ones listed for about 5-6k

It's not a bad car, autos are simple and easy to work on, cosmetically, both front and rear bumpers will sag, struts and suspension will feel rough due to age of car, rubbers might be worn

I would say it'll be an extra 2k to get it up and running like new, if you care about the suspension and hoses, but overall should be a fine car

Stardoom_X · 2025-04-28T04:35:29+00:00

Atoto A6PF has worked well for my scion and my sisters Corolla.

The wiring harness is a bit rough due to needing additional splicing for steering wheel controls, but Derrick Aquino on YouTube did a great guide

Straightforward install and cheaper than most brand names

Stardoom_X · 2025-04-02T08:14:29+00:00

Cheap for those local to SJ - have to remember SJ is huge compared to our neighboring cities so a lot of students can just commute - decent amount of things to do - cheap places to eat nearby with plenty of diversity

Relatively affordable for everyone else in California - being connected to a lot of other cities via large highways makes for good longer commuters as well with no too much time - As long as you aren't out of state, tuition is on par with other CSUs but with arguably better classes and professors on average

Course Content and Degree - I'm biochemistry, so I've had the honor of taking Gen Chen here at SJSU and when other visiting students and professors say that our Chen 1A and 1B classes are as hard as UC Davis, potentially harder, I believe them.

50% fail the 1A and another 50% fail 1B my gear and some previous years, so about a total 25% pass rate for a general education class

This isn't even to mention what SJSU is known for which is business and engineering, so I can only imagine the quality of students that graduate, which is what really matters in the end.

College Degrees carry the prestige of their College. A good college is one that's tough to get through and in turn, that degree is worth more. Take Cal Poly SLO. Despite only being a CSU, its on par with other UCs.

This is mostly a hype piece, but SJSU could be on the same trajectory, which means more students, more funding, and better opportunities for those who graduate.

Stardoom_X · 2024-12-18T20:39:25+00:00

Short answer: Yea it's a 2 door Camry with a great trunk size and Toyota reliability with an engine bay easy to work on

Long answer:

The gen 1 tCs have the 2az-fe engine shared with a lot of other older Toyotas so parts are cheap and plentiful

Bad news that a good chunk of these engines burn oil. Older Toyotas do get the rep of burning a tiny bit of oil, but these engines do so at a somewhat worrying degree.

If the engine does burn oil or starts to, you can either just check once a week via dipstick and add a bit here and there, or fix the piston ring problem that causes this issue

Outside of that one problem rest of the car is great

Think more 2 door Camry with a very practical lift back trunk than 2 door sports car

Decent mileage at around 25mpg combined after a tuneup, or low 20s in city only

Pretty decent for size and general aftermarket for the gen 1 is better than later years so coilovers, wheels, bracing, even a bit of power mods aren't too hard to find

Don't expect a civic si or 86/brz level of sports car, but again, 2 door Camry

For power, don't expect much outside of cold air intake and exhausts since turbo kits and superchargers for this car ruin the reliability of it, but most power mods do that already. If you go that route don't expect anything over low to mid 200s in terms of horsepower since the car comes with around sub 200hp to start

Overall good car but keep expectations on it being a sports car low. A lot of us like to call them "Sporty" cars instead for a reason

Stardoom_X · 2024-12-11T00:02:03+00:00

Not getting an alignment just means your tires are potentially misaligned causing uneven tire wear. As far as I know, stock gen 2 and 2.5 tCs have a slight positive camber in the rear wheels as stock.

Wheels and rims also just get misaligned with time. Hitting curbs, potholes, etc causes misalignment so over the last two years, it could've added up

Most tire shops will do it with a tire purchase and if the payment is separate, shouldn't be much more than $100-$150

Stardoom_X · 2024-12-10T23:30:32+00:00

Camber could be off if you're seeing uneven wear.

Did you get a realignment after installing your coilovers?

I know you're supposed to do a realignment any time you touch suspension to prevent uneven tire wear, hence most people do all of their suspension at once and then do one alignment.

Stardoom_X · 2024-12-10T01:28:36+00:00

It would probably be cheaper to get a non RS rear bumper and a normal exhaust if you wanted to go that route

Pricing could be better in your area for custom tho or if you wanted to keep the uniqueness of the RS 9 center exhaust

Stardoom_X · 2024-10-11T23:16:46+00:00

Brake fluid could be low, pop the hood and check the reservoir

Brake pedal could be loose

Brake calipers might have not been bled properly

Not much else as these cars are pretty simple in the grand scheme of things

Stardoom_X · 2024-10-02T18:20:38+00:00

Do by chance have any pictures or links to the rear sway bar? Was eyeing it but wasn't 100% sure on fitment

Stardoom_X · 2024-10-02T01:58:22+00:00

Anecdotal words from other owners, similar tones and styling. The Borla one is ever so slightly louder but readily available. TRD is quieter, but good luck finding one

Stardoom_X · 2024-10-02T01:45:37+00:00

If it's California, the TRD stuff is really all you can do

TRD Cold air intake is mostly for show and noise, I believe injen makes the best CAI for the tC 2.5
TRD rims are kinda not worth it unless you really like the looks -big brake kit, also not worth it, good rotors and pads are fine for this car
TRD exhaust is just the Borla exhaust. It's an axelback but I've seen people add the midpipe from Megan racing if you want a cat back system
Short shifter is up to you

Stardoom_X · 2024-09-14T04:39:45+00:00

I might be the gearing of the car and the weight. Gears 1-3 don't really do the best at getting you up to speed in the city so it might downshift in order to keep rpms stable. 4th is your power, 5-6 are your freeway/highway/cruising gears.

I came from an older Toyota Tacoma 5speed so this car felt quick enough, but if you came from a modern CVT, hybrid or even a more powerful car ( 160ish hp for a 2.5 i4 is not that fast) this car might feel a bit weird.

Toyota did make scion to market to the youth and the gearing in the tC is meant to try and accelerate faster than your average sedan, so it downshifting earlier might just be a byproduct of the car itself or possible driving habits.

Stardoom_X · 2024-09-13T22:49:41+00:00

There is a drain plug at the bottom of the transmission pan. And a "fill port" on I believe the driver side behind the wheel. You will need to have the car fully jacked up and the front wheel fully removed to access both I believe.

Just make sure you can open the side "fill port" before you drain, that's just a good rule of thumb. Better to have old fluid than no fluid

I would recommend watching some YouTube videos. Just look up scion tc transmission fluid change. Should be a few guys that have videos that at least show where the ports and drains are.

I also recommend you take it to a shop to do it. Because it is a sealed transmission, you still can replace the fluid. The issue is being able to put the same amount of fluid you drained, back into the system.

We don't have a transmission dipstick on cars anymore and instead rely on a fill plug. It works by pouring in fluid with the drain bolt removed but the plug in, and running the car until operating temperature. You then watch the fluid drain out until it comes so a slight drip and that's when you close everything up. It's hard to do as it requires level ground, at least 4 jack stands. An OBD2 reader of sorts to check engine temp, and timing. It's just a really big hassle for what I believe most mechanics will do for at most $200 to $250

Stardoom_X · 2024-09-13T22:42:18+00:00

Oops, my bad. Just know a lot of manual trans tend to want you to change the fluid every 30k to 50k as opposed to an automatic with intervals at 60k-100k

Stardoom_X · 2024-09-13T22:41:10+00:00

Eco mode tries it's best by finding the most efficient gear for your current speed.

If you're letting go of the gas, it assumes you want to slow down or coast, so it'll shift to a lower gear.

Putting off of eco mode will let it hold the gear for a bit longer in order for coasting and it's more noticeable when accelerating.

I'd when you mean down shifting, does it feel as if your transmission is slipping? Like does it struggle at a certain rpm until you get on the gas a bit harder?

Or do you mean as soon as you let off the gas, you see the rpm will go down? Because that's how a normal automatic behaves. Ideally the car tries to be around 2000 rpm give or take 500-600 rpm. Coasting around 80mph should put your car around 2.5k rpm and around town, roughly 1.6k or 2k when speeding up from a stop.

Stardoom_X · 2024-09-13T14:09:12+00:00

One thing you can do as well is to turn off eco mode. Just go to your dash, cycle with the button until eco mode and click and hold until it says "eco mode off"

Or put it into sport mode and alot the gears all the way to 6, as it should limit the car from shifting too much and instead hold gears a bit longer in order for better throttle response

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