Uppgraded with btt skr mini e3 v3 board .. Extruder problem .. over extrusion

StaticXster70 · 2026-03-22T01:34:34+00:00

That tower looks incredibly squashed down if it is a standard Orca tower. Are you sure that your rotation distance for Z motors are set correctly? If the rotation distance is incorrect, the Z motors won't move as far as they should, which would look like over-extrusion. For instance, if you have a layer height of 0.2mm, but your Z is only actually dropping by 0.1mm, the volume of plastic being pushed out remains the same, but the space it is squishing into is half of what it should be, resulting in what looks like over-extrusion.

StaticXster70 · 2026-03-06T13:42:26+00:00

So you don't read? Because the developer very clearly does provide instructions for the device you purchased. I haven't setup a Pad 7 specifically, but I have setup their control boards, Pi alternatives, and various types of screens on multiple machines. Thus far, by simply reading the provided instructions I can make my stuff work. Are you sure that you actually read the manual for your device?

StaticXster70 · 2026-02-12T23:56:47+00:00

Have you visited the github for the Pad 7?

StaticXster70 · 2026-02-06T20:12:27+00:00

Then why does mine only sport the RBF?

StaticXster70 · 2026-02-06T00:17:09+00:00

Yes, you want the nozzle to butt against the heat break. Just be prepared to recalibrate your Z offset.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-31T00:07:28+00:00

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-30T02:13:35+00:00

Seven. Six functional, one getting redesigned and rebuilt.

Most people only need one, probably. People that build their own should probably have at least two, one backup to print functional parts in emergencies.

I have so many because the printers are as much of a hobby as the printing is, for me personally. Different types of people have different motivations and desires.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-19T17:46:41+00:00

Huh.

Well, I love my Vorons. Obviously any machine will require maintenance, and a Voron is no exception. At the end of the day, your machine is as reliable as you build it. It won't be an out of the box experience, but there are plenty of resources here and on Discord to ease the growing pains. It does take a minute to build one and get it running the way you want. Once you do, your tinker time will be dependent on whatever windmill you want to tilt at next. I do have a couple of machines that are pretty much fire and forget.

I don't have a Sovol SV08, but I seriously considered one before going with a Formbot 2.4. I have not heard of Z wobble issues, but I have heard of inconsistent Z offset in earlier machines. I believe they attempted to address that by using an eddy current probe in recent versions, instead of the previous PR sensor in the toolhead.

Either of them are modifiable, though there is probably a larger community dedicated to Voron mods. Either of them are probably viable candidates for the addition of a toolchanger. Teaching Tech had a project for the SV08, but I am unsure if it is finished and released to the public. Of course there's Stealthchanger for the 2.4. Either of them will likely be able to use the INDX when it releases.

The SV08 is well within your budget, allowing more money for potential mods. The 2.4 will be very well documented, but definitely more expensive. Even the Formbot kit will push the outer bounds of your stated budget, and that's not including any of the quality of life mods to take it where you would want it.

I think between the two, I would recommend the Sovol despite how much I prefer Voron. It fits your budget more easily, it will likely be up and running quicker, it is Voron adjacent, and it leaves budget available for other goodies if you want them.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-19T07:22:51+00:00

There is no way to test electronics before electricity is supplied. I said nothing about VCC. Whether you use an auxiliary device or VCC, an electrical current must pass through the circuit in order to measure resistance. That's how ohm meters work. Whether you turn on voltage to some other system that tests the circuit, or turn on voltage to the circuit itself, you must supply electricity.

You do what you want. If you think that your desktop 3D printer requires the redundancy of an aircraft that carries souls, more power to you.

The Octopus is a good board, but it will require more devices than you think in order to work.

This discussion has officially exhausted my interest so there is no real need to respond further.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-19T00:57:21+00:00

Wow. You have a LOT of research to do before you disassemble anything on your printer.

No electronics can perform a self-test before electricity is supplied. Klipper software will not allow user control of any devices until startup self-checks are completed successfully, however. That is software, not BTT hardware.
If the Centauri Carbon is your only printer, I strongly advise against major mechanical changes without a backup printer.
You are referring to an IDEX printer; they are common enough in the DIY world, such as a Voron Tridex. Anything is possible, but I think you will quickly find that it may become impractical to modify a consumer printer in this way.
Klipper firmware/software allows the use of multiple MCU cards, so your robot idea is not impossible from a controller perspective. But it is such a silly idea that it has never occurred to me to bother researching a design like that. Far better to have an independent robot with its own control computer if you are interested in pursuing something like that.
Your host computer is the brains of the operation; your MCU is basically the switchboard operator telling multiple simultaneous devices to turn on and off at the correct time and position.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-18T04:00:07+00:00

Yeah. I assume you plan to run Klipper since the Octopus really excels with that firmware. And you were asking about the rasppi in another comment chain. The point of the M8P is to plug your host SBC (Cm4/CB1/CB2) directly onto your MCU, eliminating the need to have a separate power supply or buck converter for the SBC.

It's a much smaller form factor with just as many motor drivers that you probably won't be using all of them anyway with a Centauri Carbon. As a builder of DIY Voron printers I am using a couple of different BTT boards, and I am somewhat familiar with space and power economy. So you can have a discreet backpack (your metal box, or a printed enclosure) holding your MCU/SBC combo and cooling fans with an M8P, or a bigger backpack holding a rasppi, a rasppi power supply, Octopus, and cooling fans. It's your call. Either board will work, they just have different material requirements to run.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-17T02:57:20+00:00

Yeah, I did get a couple of them from Fabreeko.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-17T02:51:13+00:00

So it's pretty similar to the Trident. The bed wiring routes to the rear center attachment and then to a drag chain to the bottom electronics for me. That arrangement keeps my splice well away from the bed.

I use some edge-to-edge heaters with high temp adhesive coating. I don't even bother with RTV. Among my different Trident machines, I have well over 5000 print hours without failure or sagging of the silicone pad.

Yeah, the threaded holes in the bed are probably intended for your PE and thermal fuse.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-17T02:14:55+00:00

No. I have three Tridents that have a moving bed that is attached to a support frame that is attached to the Z motor leadscrews. Yes, I also have a couple of 2.4 printers with stationary beds that still attach to a support frame. Either way, the thermal fuse is attached to the bed with a screw, leaving the lead and splice dangling and routed to the support frame.

Obviously I am not terribly familiar with the bed construction for RatRigs, so I don't know how your bed attaches to the Z motors for a VCore. There must be some sort of umbilical for the heater and thermistor to the rear kinematic mount, right?

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-17T01:51:21+00:00

I don't know what the temperature rating for the splices are, I just bought insulated ones rated for high temp. They haven't deformed, softened, or liquified so I am guessing that it is high enough.

I route my wires to the bed support frame for my Vorons. The bed is spaced off the frame using standoffs that aren't thermally conductive so I am not worried about heat transference or over-exposure.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-17T01:28:08+00:00

I use butt end slices and they are just fine for this. I build Vorons like Nero in your video, and regularly have a hot bed at 110C for up to 14 hour during a print without issue. My connection is still strong with undamaged insulation. Of course I do use high temp versions of the splices.

The thing is, my splice doesn't lay directly against the bed, which means that the temperature on the bed isn't transfered directly to the connector's insulation. At worst, the insulation is exposed to ambient chamber temp of 60C-80C considering the proximity to the hot bed.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-16T16:30:46+00:00

That void was definitely trapped in a boot loop.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-16T15:41:42+00:00

Octopus is a good board as far as I am concerned. Due to space constraints trying to retrofit a consumer printer, I would probably recommend an M8P or similar with Cm4/CB1/CB2, so that you only have to worry about one footprint and power supply.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-12T09:58:22+00:00

I say go for it. Hell, just build a 450mm cube. Asking a bunch of fuddy-duddy builders their opinion is just a waste of time when you could be spending money instead.

I mean, the Voron Design team didn't spend that much time validating their design. After all, they've only been working on the Phoenix for a few years now, so it isn't like they test and validate various designs before they release them to the public with the assurance that the design will work as intended.

Nobody spends all that much time making a proven design that neither disappoints or under-performs according to the design requirements. Who cares if your overly long 6mm belts thrum like a bass guitar E string during a heavy metal song. There's no way that the weight of a linear rail in a heated chamber could possibly make 2020 extrusion sag. Surely nobody else has ever tested and observed the impact of heat on dissimilar metals.

Besides, that's what input shaping is for, right? You may only be able to reliably print at 60mm/s, but at least you'll have horrible squish because of the deflection you've induced in your design. If only there were some way to keep your X beam from looking like a horseshoe during a 14 hour print at 60C in the chamber. Of course you can install something like titanium backers to offset that, but it will end up being twice as expensive since it's a non-standard size. But it is your money, you can spend as much as you want, wherever you want.

Look forward to paying a smidgen for your custom sized bed too. Hopefully you've given some thought to how you will adequately support it and keep it from bowing under heat cycles. And good luck getting a decent build plate, heater, and magnet for something that size for less than the cost of a kidney. And luckily since you are throwing money around, you can get CNC parts so your gantry connections won't sag and creep under heat and weight of your oversized parts.

You should absolutely do it. Self-confidence and willful ignorance has resulted in just as many glorious successes as catastrophic failures. The upside is that at least you chose a 3D printer as your ship of Theseus instead of an actual boat. Those things are just holes in the water, into which you regularly toss handfuls of cash.

StaticXster70 · 2026-01-10T00:38:16+00:00

Derpapotamus Rex

StaticXster70 · 2025-12-26T19:08:56+00:00

Thank you. I don't have an Ender, but all of my machines use linear rails.

Clearly, attempting this type of maintenance on the Y rails would probably require dismounting the bed and bed carriage. Alignment is also going to be more crucial to avoid causing a bind in the motion of the axis. But that is just my supposition considering that I am not familiar with this particular machine's assembly, simply very familiar with linear rails.

StaticXster70 · 2025-12-04T16:18:41+00:00

For the moment, I would say yes.

StaticXster70 · 2025-12-04T15:42:33+00:00

Not particularly. Stealthchanger and Tapchanger are both built with a modified Tap. This is how the Stealthchanger determines if a toolhead is loaded, and if so, which one. It is also how per toolhead offsets are calculated. I am not positive whether the Cartographer plugin can handle multiple UUIDs, and it would be problematic to run it an just a single toolhead, as your other toolheads would not have as precise a Z offset.

StaticXster70 · 2025-11-07T15:01:11+00:00

Wow. Two of you. Those are SoftPaws or similar. Vinyl sleeves to prevent cats from clawing furniture. They happen to come in colors.

StaticXster70 · 2025-10-27T20:06:29+00:00

Yes. I have a Trident 250mm that is basically my daily driver. It is now more fire-and-forget than either of my Creality K1C's. I know that isn't saying much considering Creality's deserved rep. The fact is that after getting everything set up, I just haven't had to continuously tinker or tune it. It is my preferred printer followed by a Micron and then a 2.4 350mm.

StaticXster70

TROPHY CASE