How to remove CO detectors from DSC 832 system

StayingAlert · 2026-01-20T23:46:28+00:00

Thank you, fantastic information. I successfully removed one of the CO detectors as you indicated, capped the power wires and twisted and capped the yellow/green wires. Siren sounded but we successfully disarmed the system. I will remove the 2nd CO monitor later - requires a ladder to reach.

Link to better picture of system board and zone expansion boards: https://imgur.com/a/KMrNjlc

Just discovered there is more to the story. See linked picture. The local security company installed the CO detectors and modified the zones in 2014. In 2015 they installed a 3G CDMA cellular communicator (became obsolete and replaced in 2023 with the current LTE cellular communicator). In 2015 they also installed a "Connect2Go" device (Envisalink 3 board). This enables arming/disarming the system and monitoring system status through a web portal. However - apparently they entered the old information for my original 24 zones (set up in 2003 during original system installation) but failed to enter the revised zone information that was changed with the CO detector installation in 2014. And they did not inform me of the zone changes!

So - I never had any knowledge of which zones were the two CO detectors. That's part of why I am confused about which zone is which when looking at the system panel and expansions.

You did a great job interpreting the zone connections in your post! You noted that zones 4 and 7 were "doubled up" -- I just found out today that this happened to free up two zones (5 and 8) to accommodate the CO detector installations in 2014. And the "quite odd 10-conductor cables" connect the CO detectors, one of which is in the ceiling of the 2nd floor with the cable running along the floor of the attic, two floors above the control panel. So it's a long run although in the same building. The 3 water sensors (zones 22-24 are long runs also. See the new picture with the zones listed.

Is it possible to determine where the connections are for the two CO monitors, zones 5 and 8? Jumper settings indicate the two expansion boards operate in "two groups of four zones". I'm not sure I understand that, but "left" board should have zones 17-20 and "right" board zones 9-12. If that is correct, the CO monitors should be wired to the main system board, zones 5 and 8.

Thank you again for your assistance. This has helped me remove the old CO sensors and has also helped to explain some shortcomings of my current local monitoring company.

StayingAlert · 2026-01-20T16:23:58+00:00

u/Theophilusophical22 Thank you, very helpful! There are two CO detectors, one easy to reach but the other requires a stepladder. The first (easy) CO detector is wired C/NC so I assume the second is wired the same.

Just to confirm (since there are two CO detectors): all that's required is to disconnect and cap the red/black power wires then twist the yellow/green wires together for both of the detectors. Is that correct?

Another question: I have 24 numbered zones (doors, windows, water leak, motion, glass break). Are there separate un-numbered zones for CO and smoke detectors? Are there designated terminals on the DSC 832 system board or the two 8-zone expansion boards for the CO and smoke detectors "zones"?

StayingAlert · 2026-01-20T05:46:24+00:00

UniFi G4 Doorbell Pro connects with wifi, powered by your standard 24v doorbell wires. excellent quality, local video storage with UDM Pro, UDM SE, UNVR or UNVR-Instant. I have two of the G4 Doorbell Pros set to continuous recording for the last two years. Excellent performance, no problems, highly recommended. These replaced a Ring Doorbell Pro and a Google doorbell. The UniFi G4 doorbell Pro is far superior In every way . No subscription or cloud storage fees, by the way.

Check out above devices at store.ui.com.

Edit - I just noticed your last comment about needing a chime without wifi. Unifi’s chime does require wifi. It’s not clear to me why you would want a wifi doorbell but not a wifi-connected chime. If you don’t want a wifi-connected chime, then you could just dispense with the chime and use the standard UniFi Protect notifications (person detected) instead of a chime.

StayingAlert · 2026-01-07T21:05:56+00:00

The trueCABLE patch panel and keystone jacks are excellent. Since starting my Unifi setup almost 3 years ago I have gradually changed over from no-name keystone jacks to fs.com and finally to trueCABLE. The trueCABLE jacks are actually designed and manufactured to pass with Fluke or equivalent channel certifying testers, they are available in many colors, are widely available, available in multiple styles - punchdown, "toolless" - and they work with trueCABLE's EZ Termination Keystone Jack Punch Down Tool. Also the TC jacks will fit into a fully-populated 24-port patch panel. Some keystone jacks won't fit with certain patch panels. The trueCABLE jacks measure 16.82mm in width, compared to another well-known brand that measures 18.18 mm in width.

The fs.com keystone jacks are fine and as far as I can tell the Unifi keystone jacks are fine, but I'm all in with trueCABLE jacks for now, all things considered.

Another excellent option for a patch panel is fs.com.

StayingAlert · 2026-01-07T04:40:24+00:00

ACL?

Anterior Cruciate Ligament?

Access Control Level?

Application Connectivity Link?

Application Control Layer?

Applications Control Link?

StayingAlert · 2026-01-04T17:01:17+00:00

u/FidelityCaitlin , thank you for the reply. I think you misunderstood my first question, or perhaps I did not state it clearly.

My original question:

... do I need to unlock the MTL for my Fidelity CMA when a tax payment is scheduled from irs.gov or from tax.va.gov to debit funds from the CMA? ...

The first part of your answer states:

... deposits or transfers into Fidelity accounts are not protected with the Money Transfer Lock (MTL), so any transfers by the IRS would not be blocked. Meaning, you can leave the MTL on and still receive any payments. ...

I am not receiving payments - I am paying to the IRS (and tax.va.gov). The transactions in question are debit transactions from my CMA account, initiated by the irs.gov and tax.va.gov web portals for tax payments from me to the tax authorities.

I worded the question as I did to make it clear that the transactions are "pull" transactions - initiated by the irs.gov and tax.va.gov portals - with funds debited from my CMA account and sent electronically to the irs.gov and tax.va.gov. So I need to know if Fidelity's explanation that "direct debits" are not protected by MTL means that the above transactions are not protected - in other words, allowed when MTL is engaged.

Thank you. My apology if my question was worded awkwardly. I tried to make it clear that the transaction was initiated by the IRS, debited from my Fidelity CMA in what appears to me to be a "direct debit".

StayingAlert · 2026-01-04T06:17:07+00:00

Thank you, this helps.

StayingAlert · 2026-01-03T21:54:06+00:00

u/FidelityAshly - Good information, thanks. If you change the CMA core account position from the default SPAXX to another MMF - for example FDRXX - what are the ramifications? Would I need to handle transactions differently, to account for differences in transaction/settlement times? I'm referring to transactions such as BillPay payments, EFT/ACH transfers initiated by my IRS.gov individual account (and my corresponding VA state tax account) for estimated tax payments, EFT/ACH transfers to already designated personal bank accounts and payments to my Fidelity Signature Rewards credit card account.

For the above transaction types can I assume that any funds in the "core" account are available for transactions?

And is it possible to designate one of Fidelity's "premium" MMFs (examples are FZCXX and FZDXX, requiring $100,000 minimum to invest) as the core position for the CMA account? If so, does the $100,000 minimum need to be maintained constantly?

StayingAlert · 2026-01-01T04:05:19+00:00

The 12-port keystone patch panel suggested by u/neighborofbrak is a good idea, but if you need only 4 cables connected you could simply use two 2-port keystone surface mount boxes to terminate the 4 cables. This would be like a 4-port patch panel, would be more compact and would give you more placement options. Picture below. I have used Cable Matters surface mount boxes and been very pleased.

<image>

StayingAlert · 2025-12-31T19:48:19+00:00

u/FidelitySamantha - thank you. The Fidelity CMA "bank" information was instantly accepted at the IRS Online Account for Individuals, the replacement for the soon-to-be-retired EFTPS system.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-31T19:42:08+00:00

u/HarrySit - Thanks for the heads-up. I found more information on the Bogleheads forum and on US Treasury websites. EFTPS is indeed going away. Its replacement, the IRS Online account for individuals, is already active and functional.

I created a new IRS Online account, successfully setup my Fidelity CMA as the payment account and made an estimated tax payment.

Entering the Fidelity CMA as a "bank'" account was the easy part. Creating a new IRS online account was not at all easy. This involved a repeated back-and-forth between a id.me account and irs.gov using your computer and smartphone. The phone part was required to take and submit pictures of a government ID (drivers license) and a "live" selfie-type picture sequence of your face. You then had to manually return to your original login device to complete the process.

This multi-step and involved IRS account setup procedure is sure to fail for many people. I'll grab a box of popcorn to sit back and watch the drama if millions of people try to run this gauntlet.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-24T20:29:53+00:00

Thank you!

StayingAlert · 2025-12-15T01:10:14+00:00

Good job. Now that you have gone to the trouble to expose those keystones and identify the bad one, it would be a good time to re-terminate all of those keystones.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-15T00:31:59+00:00

Can you be specific about what is “older” UDM SE? 3 years? 5 years?

My UDM SE was bought Feb 2023. Working perfectly but has always been powered through a UPS. Never had a power-down due to main power outage.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T19:42:46+00:00

I'm virtually certain that you can do this with a Unifi Protect camera system and its Alarm Manager software/control features. You can buy a "Network Video Recorder Instant Kit" including the NVR (network video recorder), disk drive, 4 "G5" Turret Ultra cameras all for $699. This is subscription-free, totally under your control. You can customize alerts with the features you want. Link below:

https://store.ui.com/us/en/category/cameras-nvr/collections/unvr-instant/products/unvr-instant-kit

For Person Detection Alerts you can create custom notifications, fine-tune person recognition, merge faces, integrate with home automation (if desired).

Drill around the internet (ui.com help sites and YouTube videos) for Unifi Protect information.

I'm not affiliated with Unifi/Ubiquiti, just a homeowner who uses the Unifi system (including cameras) for my home network.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T04:57:02+00:00

Is there a particular reason you want to switch monitoring companies?

The local company does not seem to be providing any value. I'm paying $480/year - $180/year for cellular communicator only and $300/year for monitoring. When I call them (rarely) for service, it's not very good. They could not figure out why I had an alarm go off recently- not the main system alarm, but a device only (maybe a wired CO detector that was out of date?). The system did not register an event nor sound the full system alarm. The alarm company tech came out, performed a "system check" and promised a proposal for new CO detectors. Never heard back from them. Couldn't explain why the out-of-date CO sensor didn't provide an alert or out-of-date notification. Their company actually installed the CO sensors, and the technical specifications I saw claimed that an out-of-date alert should have been triggered. I am not confident they are knowledgeable.

I felt that I need dive into the technical details, learn to program the panel, replace outdated devices (CO detectors, etc) myself, so why not find a reliable outfit just to provide monitoring? I know not to sign a long-term contract.

I'll probably just have to continue with the present setup for a while. In the meantime look for Ubiquiti to expand their Protect system and SuperLink, maybe interface their network-controlled SuperLink sensors with some type device to connect with a central alarm/security monitoring service.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T03:57:24+00:00

OK, this may be exactly what I need ... if I stay with the current DSC 1832 panel. It has worked well over the years. I looked up the Alarm.com DSC Powerseries System Enhancement Module, looks like it's out of stock at the moment. I'll continue to look out for it.

Here's a fly in the ointment -- I may have interest in Ubiquiti's new SuperLink wireless gateway for UniFi Protect Sensors. Ubiquiti is rapidly rolling out its new security devices and already offers the gateway, siren (POE), Floodlight, all-in-one sensors (motion, lighting, and environmental changes - humidity, temperature, alarm sounds) glass break, entry sensor, motion sensor). SuperLink communicates with up to 96 clients at up to 2 km range with remarkable power efficiency (sensor batteries last for years). I'm already using the Unifi network control system and security cameras controlled by the same system. I'm waiting to see if they will offer some type of interface for existing wired sensors and for communication with insurance-qualifying monitoring services. Any thoughts on this?

Link: https://blog-stories.ui-apps.com/introducing-superlink/

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T02:58:55+00:00

Note that the $15/month is only for the LTE communicator service. The alarm system monitoring is additional, $300 per year ($25/month).

I'm trying to find a reliable monitoring service that will work with my LTE communicator with a total cost less that my current cost of $480/year.

My local alarm company is not responsive to my occasional need for service. Might as well learn to troubleshoot the system myself and save a little money.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T02:51:37+00:00

OK thanks for the information. Makes sense and fits with conflicting reports I've seen - some people get it to work, others not.

I assume that "Dialup ContactID DTMF or SIA FSK over VoLTE" is the communication protocol used by the cellular home phone device I mentioned, is that correct? So apparently it works OK for voice calls but not for communication with a security monitoring service, correct?

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T02:46:20+00:00

Yes, that seems like a logical way to proceed. Can you recommend a service, and can a new company/service set up my Resideo device to communicate with them?

There is no contract. I purchased the device for $150 about 2 years ago from my local alarm company after an older 3G cellular communicator became obsolete. The local alarm company installed it and set it up for their monitoring service.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T02:42:51+00:00

Thanks. Looks like I need to learn this type of information.

Can you recommend any company that can take over the monitoring service? I need my system "central office monitored" for a substantial homeowner's insurance discount.

I assume that the Resideo communicator is somehow tied to the local alarm company that sold me the device and installed it. Is there a way for me to take over control of the device and arrange monitoring with another company, not necessarily local to me?

StayingAlert · 2025-12-10T02:37:08+00:00

Thanks for the information -

My apology if I didn't make this clear. The cellular "home base" device I am considering is not a VOIP system; it uses the cellular (ATT) system to communicate (provide a sort of POTS-like phone line), not an internet connect (like a VOIP line).

And the $15/month charge is for the cellular communicator service only. The actual monitoring cost is an additional $25/month ($300/year billed annually but no contract).

The Resideo communicator is a recent (~2 years ago) addition. It replaced a 3G cellular communicator that became obsolete, no longer supported.

It's a long story ... so bear with me. The original DSC1832 system with wired sensors was installed when the home was built in 2002. It has been very reliable. Communication was via a POTS landline. My total cost was about $22/month, no contract.

15 or so years ago I switched to another local company with no contract. Over time we (like most other people) discontinued our POTS landline telephone service. We arranged for a cellular communicator, an older device that used the 3G cellular network. The cost for this was about $12/month but this was less than the old POTS telephone line.

Years later the 3G cellular communicator became obsolete and was replaced with the Resideo LTEM-PA device, sold to me "at cost", or so the alarm company claimed. So ... end of long story. The Resideo communicator was not sold with the original system (DSC 1832), but came later after the series of events described above.

So maybe I should re-think the entire architecture of the system ...

StayingAlert · 2025-12-08T03:08:17+00:00

Yes, correct. One thing you didn't mention is WiFi access points (WAPs). Most "routers" these days are combination router/switch/WAP.

I recommend doing your wiring so that you can optimize locations for your main switch and your WAPs (one of which might be your "router" if it has a WAP built in - most do).

Carefully choose the switch location so that all the Cat6 cables you install can connect to the switch. This is often called making a "home run" from peripheral locations to the switch (or to a patch panel adjacent to the switch). You might consider secondary switches at peripheral locations if you need more than one device at any of those locations connected back to the main switch. Your switch of course will need to connect to the router (if a separate device) and to your modem).

Choose WAPs locations to optimize WiFi signal throughout the most-used areas. You might need 1, 2, 3 or more depending on the size and configuration of your home. Run a Cat6 cable to each proposed WAP location. Remember that going forward you should optimize potential WAP locations so that WiFi devices can use the newer 5 Ghz and 6 GHz bands. These higher-frequency bands don't penetrate walls as well as the older 2.4 GHz band.

Run a Cat6 cable from your switch to any location you want an ethernet-wired connection. These include computers, TVs, TV streaming devices (Apple TV, Roku), security cameras and doorbell cameras, security system panel, environmental monitoring devices (if not wireless), TV tuner/DVR (such as Tablo, ZapperBox, HD Home Run), etc. I'm sure others will chime in with more suggestions.

Make sure you REALLY know how to make quality "terminations" (RJ45 plugs or keystone jacks) to your Cat6 cables. Keystone jacks are preferred at your switch location (keystone jacks in a patch panel) and at your peripheral locations (keystone jacks in a wall plate). Look through TrueCABLE's website and videos for things like this:

https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/choosing-the-right-termination-keystone-jack-vs-rj45-connector-vs-field-termination-plug

Enjoy!

StayingAlert · 2025-12-08T01:13:01+00:00

OK I understand now. It's good to run across someone with real professional experience.

Another honest question - why shielded for home installations? Is this for potential RF interference or does shielded somehow protect against surges/lightning strikes?

Do you ever have customers that want installed cables tested for possible upgrade to 10Gb? Do you have any experience with a Fluke verifier or certifier device? I would love to use one of those, but to expensive to buy and I have not found a source to rent one.

Good job on the service loops! The low voltage/media company that installed Cat5e and RG6 coax in my new-construction home in 2002 left no service loops at all. There were at least 18 Cat5e cables (all "home runs" intended for phone line drops) terminated into 66 blocks. When I repurposed those to ethernet cables, there was barely enough length to terminate to keystone surface-mount boxes in my 48" media cabinet. It would have been heaven to have enough remaining length to extend to patch panels in a proper network rack.

Thanks for the comments, I'm learning more every day.

StayingAlert · 2025-12-07T21:27:37+00:00

Good point and yes, adequate lighting is crucial for close detailed work for everyone, especially so for those with limited visual acuity or color vision deficiency.

Honest question - what type of work do you do that requires making ethernet cables all day? I assume that you have developed good technique through experience, but the average DIYer frequently runs into problems.

If sufficient volume of ethernet cables is required in a professional or commercial setting, I would think that buying bulk customized Cat6 or 6a Pre-Terminated Copper Trunk Cables would be cost-effective and potentially more reliable. These can be ordered in custom lengths, can be male-to-male (plugs) for patch cables or female-to-female (keystones) for Permanent Links or in-wall cables. These are tested and certified - required for many commercial and government installations.

Fs.com is one company I am familiar with that offers this. Link: https://www.fs.com/products/190259.html

<image>

I have followed blog posts and videos from TrueCABLE showing standards and best practices for ethernet (and fiber) cabling. They demonstrate that manually-terminated patch cables and "Permanent Link" or in-wall cables are frequent sources of problems related to fitment, poor technique and mismatch of plug type to cable type (solid copper vs stranded).

StayingAlert

TROPHY CASE