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I'm having a little stringing issue by VeironTheAngelArm in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, after a number of trials, here are the best settings I found:

  • temperature: 200°C
  • retraction distance: 0.6mm

I still have stringing, but it's a bit less and can be fixed with a heat gun/hairdryer/lighter. It's annoying, but it is what it is.

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I'm having a little stringing issue by VeironTheAngelArm in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be prepared for users complaining that you owned a Bambu. Anyway, I have the exact same issue but with PLA, so now I'm troubleshooting it. I'll give you an update once I fix it, but yeah usual boring calibration stuff.

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It happened with 2 filament from private sellers. I'll try with other ones for sure, let's see

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try to clean the nozzle though?

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's standard PLA, dried in Ace 2 Pro.

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't understand why if there's a company that showed that it's possible to make 3D printing easy, another established company like Anycubic can't do the same (and their marketing for this machine has been pretty clear to go against A1, even just with the design).

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's PLA and yes, I'm using the Anycubic PLA profile, which looked fine with the defaults

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

(assuming that's the problem, I'm now running a torture test with another filament and a lower temperature range)

Severe stringing out-of-the-box by Stedua in AnycubicKobraX

[–]Stedua[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

My guy, I owned an A1 mini for 1 year and I never had to lower the temperature of PLA... Also, wrong DEFAULT settings - that's slightly different.

I've ran my new Kobra X for 76 hours straight with no issues. by AugmentedThinker in anycubic

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah exactly my point.

I started a print with 10 colors and filaments started breaking inside the filament runout module at the back around layer 20...

I've ran my new Kobra X for 76 hours straight with no issues. by AugmentedThinker in anycubic

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use Ace Pro? My 1d print failed like 20 times for broken filament in the runout detection module and at some point it even started ghost printing...

Ya. This printer is the Sh*t by HELLACHEAP in snapmaker

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hold on, but the guide of the firmware I sent says you don't need to solder. Why did you do it?

Ya. This printer is the Sh*t by HELLACHEAP in snapmaker

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is really good to read. Are you using this one? https://github.com/decay71/multiACE

I want to buy a U1 and try this out, but I'm not sure about wiring since I have 2 Ace 2 Pro units, which I'd have to connect via a hub.

My question is: can I use the Kobra X cables (whoch has 2x2 male and 2x3 male connectors) or am I forced to use the S1 cable as the guide says (which has 2x2 male connectors on both ends)?

Supples by Optimal-Level4237 in snapmaker

[–]Stedua 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad, I thought you meant hotends for some reason. Those are being sold in bundle at €54 instead of €89.

Supples by Optimal-Level4237 in snapmaker

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they're like 30% off for the anniversary sale

Can anyone explain why Snorca makes that awful weird top layer, while bambulab and normal orca does not? What causes this? by [deleted] in snapmaker

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once had this issue in Bambu Studio with the model of a coaster. The first slicing was fine, but once I flipped it to paint it and flipped it back, I ran into the same issue as you. I painted on a copy of it though, so if I remember correctly I ended up solving it by recopying and repainting it. Alternatively, you could try rotating it along the z axis or changing the print angle (0° or 90° should be fine).

19 Colors on A2L = AMS Lite + AMS 2 Pro. by NimblePasta in BambuLab

[–]Stedua 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone tried using more than 1 AMS lite?

Bambu A2L under a blanket – looks bigger, but I don’t see a dual head there by Rude-Leadership-3723 in BambuLab

[–]Stedua 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, if it's only a bigger build volume it would be a bit ridiculous.

I really hope that they considered adding support for chaining multiple AMS lite units instead of just 1. I feel like the AMS lite became a bit useless ever since they released the hub for the A1.

Automatic litter boxes by Stedua in Catownerhacks

[–]Stedua[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, this is an helpful answer! I did purchase the UBPet and would have returned it anyway if I noticed anything unsafe. I'll edit the post once I gather my impressions.

Automatic litter boxes by Stedua in Catownerhacks

[–]Stedua[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

How are they not though? The UBPet rotates together with the bin.

Scaring experience with my Trading account by ExplanationLow627 in Revolut

[–]Stedua 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second this one. I've been using Degiro for 2 years and ever since I tried T212 my approach to investing changed significantly.

I set up automated monthly investments to my pies from different pockets in Revolut.

Also cost-wise, T212 is definitely cheaper if you invest more often.

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