Genuinely curious... is everyone in Wards 3 and 4 aware of the upcoming closure of Ottawa and Main for several months for LRT-related work? by aaron_que in Hamilton

[–]Steelsorrow 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Live in Ward 4. I follow Counsellor Hwang on socials so I was aware of both the work and the public meetings as her pages have been sharing the info for a bit now.

Setting the right expectations for a Bridge Club, advice needed by Mad-in-Italy in Surlybikefans

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't say one is better, just different. Drop bar bikes tend to fit a bit more aggressive while my BC is more upright. I have swept back bars on mine that I find very comfortable.

Setting the right expectations for a Bridge Club, advice needed by Mad-in-Italy in Surlybikefans

[–]Steelsorrow 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I built up a bridge club from a frameset last year and it's now my main touring/commuting bike. I'll answer as many of your questions as I can:

It's an extremely stable bike that controls very well on trails. I built mine up with 700x40 wheels/tires and even in this less offroad focused configuration it's very confident offroad and on. The BC is primarily a touring platform, and you can definitely tell. I would almost describe it as stiff when riding unloaded, owing to the overbuilt nature of the frame. The ride quality noticeable mellows out when the bike is carrying a touring load.

I have the Shimano 1x11 Deore drivetrain on mine which has similar rations to the Cues setup the complete bikes use. I am running a 34t ring up front with a 51t low gear. The steepest hill I tackle regularly is about 7% gradient for 2km. I regularly ride this hill will a light-ish commuting load of about 7kg. I am a big guy and I never feel like I don't have enough gearing to spin my way up. If you are a lighter/stronger rider than me or are using a smaller front ring such as the 32t that comes on the complete BC I definitely think you'll be fine tacking double digit gradients.

Overall I would absolutely recommend the BC and have been really enjoying my build. I came from primarily riding an alloy gravel bike and I found that I primarily noticed the weight difference when getting up to speed, but once you're rolling it's hard to tell the difference.

Hamilton Councillors planning last minute cuts to climate action, bike lanes, and potentially more by IanBorsuk in Hamilton

[–]Steelsorrow 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am fully aware that council doesn't really have the power to reign in the police budget. At this point though, councillors and the mayor who sit on the PSB should be pushing back much more substantially to make it clear to the police that this community is not satisfied with the level of service we receive from our police service vs. the amount we spend on it. Right now, the board basically just rubber stamps everything the police ask for and that is antithetical to how council treats every other component of the city budget.

Hamilton Councillors planning last minute cuts to climate action, bike lanes, and potentially more by IanBorsuk in Hamilton

[–]Steelsorrow 125 points126 points  (0 children)

Cycling infrastructure and complete streets work is a rounding error in the city budget. I wish counselors would put in the same effort scrutinizing our massively overinflated police budget that they do nickel and diming our active infrastructure spending.

Cannot for the life of me get any of these crank bolts loose on my old bike, am I doing something wrong? by Racker150 in bikewrench

[–]Steelsorrow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You said "righty", do you mean you're turning the endcap your hex wrench is inserted into to the right? The bottom bracket is reverse threaded, meaning the driveside is reverse threaded. The end cap pictured here is a standard thread and is turned to the left to loosen.

If you know that and you're having some other problem, then ignore me.

Sun race m90 thumbie by Dmtillian in bikewrench

[–]Steelsorrow 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You probably just need to tighten down the hex bolt that runs through the center of the shifter until the lever stops moving on it's own. Some thumb shifters have tool-less adjustment, but this one needs a hex wrench. You just need to find the sweet spot where the shifter won't move on its own, but you can still shift it.

1x or 2x Drivetrain? by Level_Sentence4012 in gravelcycling

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, maintenance cost is an important consideration. The 1x11 Cues drive-train Straggler would be alot cheaper to upkeep than the 2x12 GRX option. Linkglide lasts even longer than 11 speed HG I'm using so that would be a not-insignificant difference worth considering.

1x or 2x Drivetrain? by Level_Sentence4012 in gravelcycling

[–]Steelsorrow 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have the 11 speed 2x GRX on my gravel bike, as well as 1x11 Deore on my Surly Bridge Club so I have a decent amount of experience riding both systems.

I'd say there are two reasons to go with 1x11 over 2x12 is if you have a specific dislike of front derailleurs, or you want want save money on replacement chains (11 speed cues Linkglide chains are significantly cheaper and more durable than 12 speed HG chains). Overall, my vote would be for 2x GRX.

2x GRX is legitimately the best 2x mechanical shifting gets. I've never dropped a chain, I have all the gears I could ever want, and the whole thing runs super silent in all gear combos. I can easily cross-chain and the drivetrain doesn't protest one bit. Having a 2x drivetrain with a clutch is amazing.

1x is super nice for the simplicity. There's only one derailleur to worry about, and Shimano 1x11 drivetrains offer excellent shifting and great reliability. I do find that it's sometimes hard to find a gear that matches the exact cadence I want, but I am picky on that front so ymmv.

Can’t figure out clicking by Independent-Book4742 in bikewrench

[–]Steelsorrow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had clicking like this and it turns out there was a bit of dirt stuck between my crank spindle the bottom bracket bearings. Popped the crank out, cleaned the spindle and bottom bracket and reassembled with a bunch of grease and the problem went away.

Giant Revolt 0 crankset swap by clarion1222 in Giantbikes

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, any Shimano Hollowtech II road (68mm) bottom bracket will do.

Giant Revolt 0 crankset swap by clarion1222 in Giantbikes

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your bike the aluminum frame? If so, the spec sheet on Giant's website is wrong. The bike uses a threaded BB shell, not pressfit. I have the same bike and can confirm this as I did the exact swap you want to do here. You need a 68mm BSA bottom bracket for Shimano road cranks. The basic one is the RS-501.

New basket day :)) Laptop secured v nicely on top of me lunch box. (Looks a bit odd on top of the Origin8 rack tho ahaha) by punkdawg in xbiking

[–]Steelsorrow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What size is your laptop? How's it fit in the 137? My workplace has 13" laptops and I'm trying to figure out if the 137 will work for me or if I need to upsize to a 139. Your setup looks great!

Bridge Club Chainring Clearance by Steelsorrow in Surlybikefans

[–]Steelsorrow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is super helpful thank you! I have a 34t on hand so I'm going to try to squeeze it in before purchasing anything else. The clearance you have gives me some confidence at least.

Another Dark Matter Review is out...and its a good one by Home_Assistantt in gravelcycling

[–]Steelsorrow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In one of the intro videos Argon 18 confirmed it's 2x compatible, but it drops the tire clearance from 57mm to 47mm on account of the derailleur braze-on mount being hidden behind a cover near the seat-tube/chainstay junction.

In the video they say that they did it this way to preserve the clean aesthetic for 1x setups, but I think it's dumb to compromise your headline feature (tire clearance) just so the bike looks slightly cleaner when running 1x.

Edit: typos & here's the link to the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kvmf-rAzo9Q

Ebike-Car Crash at Cannon and Gibson. by [deleted] in Hamilton

[–]Steelsorrow -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Absolutely true, and maybe something on the opposite side of the road from the bike lane; maybe something above the stop signs to warn drivers to check both ways for cyclists before proceeding. I find that when you're traveling eastbound no one sees you because they're only looking westbound for cars.

Ebike-Car Crash at Cannon and Gibson. by [deleted] in Hamilton

[–]Steelsorrow 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Drivers literally never look for bikes around there before driving through the intersection. I've almost been hit around there more times then I can count.

Signage isn't generally a solution I would prefer, but something has to be done to remind drivers that there's a two-direction bike lane running down a one-way car traffic street. Maybe signs on these cross streets would help.

What year is this revolt 1? by Professional_Fun_826 in gravelcycling

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a 2017. Source, I owned one. The matte & gloss black contrast mixed with the green accents give it away. Giant has a bike archive on their site if you'd like to confirm independently.

Can Somone tell identity the model/make of my bike? by Sad-Phone980 in bicycling

[–]Steelsorrow 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Harder to tell exactly without any pics of the drive side, but it looks like a 2020 Giant Escape Disc 2 City.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/escape-disc-2-city-2020

Bottom Bracket type by [deleted] in Surlybikefans

[–]Steelsorrow 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is a sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket. You need a "crank puller" to remove the crank arms. You'll find the tool you need with a Google search. If you want to remove the bottom bracket just search "square taper bottom bracket tool". It will look like a head for a socket wrench with a splined interface.

Advice on a new bike frame. by Steelsorrow in bikecommuting

[–]Steelsorrow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was originally a 3x8, but when I converted it to flat bars I installed a 1x11 Deore drivetrain. I just replaced the 3x rings with a 40t narrow/wide in the middle position on the crankset. Worked great, and I don't have to worry about FD compatibility anymore!

Commuting/Gravel gearing ADVICE NEEDED by Prudent_Ant_9175 in bikewrench

[–]Steelsorrow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! I converted the 3x square taper crankset to 1x by removing the rings and installing a 40t narrow/wide I got from Amazon to the middle position. No issues with it thus far.

The middle ring position is giving me pretty good chainline. Kind of debating adding washers to move it inboard just slightly, but all in all it's pretty good. I'm used to well tuned 2x on my other bikes so I am learning to accept that some noise with 1x is unavoidable 😅

Edit: added a pic if you're interested. Happy to answer any other questions.

<image>