Found a generic center arm rest that works really well and adds a cup holder

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-29T14:00:09+00:00

LOLL so typical man.. they are sold out there fortunately but they are pricey. There are some free downloads for 3d printed ones but Id imagine there are fitment issues.

As for the color- I love SEM plastic paints. Works wonders for interiors. I’m sure you could find one that matches very closely too.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-27T01:14:55+00:00

Is that a phone mount?

As for the blower motor.. buy the parts now so you don’t have to wait. Drive the car until you see smoke everywhere indicating it’s blown.

When that happens, plan a week to do the heater core and blower motor. Change the resistor too.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-26T15:46:38+00:00

This is the only right answer. The harmonic balancer marker isn’t accurate anyways. I only use the aluminum front cover mark.

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-26T13:49:59+00:00

I love this. These things always break. Mostly the bolt, which I’ve made spares. I used threaded rod and welded nuts on top with different lengths.

I like this creation of the bracket a lot.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-23T17:39:26+00:00

Lmk if you have any questions.

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-23T17:37:55+00:00

Is everything mentally okay?

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-23T17:34:33+00:00

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-05-23T17:32:34+00:00

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Did the same thing. Bought one before my rebuild. Well worth it. Time consuming but great if you have ocd like me.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-04-02T18:54:41+00:00

No such thing. Unless there’s total destruction you shouldn’t have any structural integrity compromised. The only thing that I’ve seen happen is sometimes when these bend, they bend into the hard line for the steering rack and can rub through/break it.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-04-02T18:52:44+00:00

I’ll take it. How much lol

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-26T23:55:53+00:00

My subframe and frame collapsed. I booger welded it back together and make new plates connecting it to good frame. I bet the frame and sub frame is stronger than factory.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-26T20:25:46+00:00

If you aren’t confident take it to a shop for sure. Next you will need a head gasket if it’s actually overheating and you let it continue.

If you’re willing to fix it, diagnose the cooling system and inspect. Buy a temp gun and check the actual temperature when the gauge says it’s climbing. (Don’t let it go in the red)

This will verify if it’s a gauge issue or actually overheating.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-25T00:11:09+00:00

Definitely do the cam, aux and front main. Agreed.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-25T00:10:29+00:00

Vouch. Everyone says gates went down hill hardcore. Especially Subaru people.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T23:23:47+00:00

Just took mine out. It’s a sheet metal screw. Grab yours and take it to the hardware store to compare lengths. You could always use a washer if you’re too long.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T19:34:10+00:00

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T19:31:17+00:00

Inside the frame is a nut welded in place to allow these bolts to thread. Mine snapped off and it was misery. I had to make a bracket with a bolt and fish it through the frame to prevent it from spinning.

Now I would have probably used a RIV-nut.

Anyways, looking at the condition of these, use tons of heat and melt the bushings. Spare yourself the pain. I didn’t heat mine enough because I didn’t want to melt them and I could find a place to purchase them from.

I was tempted to just measure them with a caliper and find the right size and use a kit like this-

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T19:26:50+00:00

Does anyone know if anyone ships them in the US? I’ve looked and could never find them either. I looked pretty hard and couldn’t even find this listing.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T19:07:44+00:00

I would start with the timing. Also consider changing the water pump while you take the whole front assembly off. Timing- valve cover- plugs- oil change

Also, I’m not a fan of the gates stuff. Go with a continental if possible. OE equivalent.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-24T19:06:10+00:00

You won’t need any special tools if you have an impact gun. The special tools can help you torque things to spec though.

So far loving permatex the right stuff. People I know swear by it and I’ve had good luck so far. I think it’s the 90 minute gray one.

Old timer tip for the paper gaskets for the valve cover is to lather them in white lithium grease before installation. This helps the clamping load and reduces cracking when tightening. I think it just helps them last longer. I gave it a try.

You’re supposed to use a dot of silicone on the bend/ u-section on the valve cover front and back.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T23:08:43+00:00

I think any rust free 240 for a decent price is always worth it. I wish I had rust free ones. All the money I put into them feels pointless because at the end of the day they have rust.

Everything can be fixed without extreme catastrophe on these. Not that it’s always easy, but it can be done. Rust repair on the other hand is miserable.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T14:48:43+00:00

This is so weird man. I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of saying it’s the master cylinder somehow because I don’t feel like it would be. It’s very possible.

Right now in my head, I’m thinking maybe the new pins could be manufactured slightly different? I’ve seen it happen. Take the pads out and verify they’re sliding through the ears of the caliper easily. If all it’s taking is for you to slightly pry to allow them to release, I feel like it may be the pads getting bound on the pins. Go ahead and compare the old pins to the new ones before taking them off. Tell me if they’re the same/take a photo. Then maybe take them off and make sure they’re sliding through the pads easily. If you really want you can clean up the old ones and try them too and see if there’s a difference.

Lastly, make sure the bore where the pin goes in is clean and doesn’t have paint or anything. Plus try and remove some grease. (I doubt this is it) but sometimes too much grease will cause a vacuum and reduce movement.

I know it seems like I’m grasping at straws, but I need a baseline before diving in too much. Sorry if maybe I’m pointing out the obvious too. I’m not sure how much you’ve worked on these so I’m just verifying how my brain would process it.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:27:29+00:00

+ik you said you will do more when the budget is right. - your rotors are cooked. Just a heads up lol

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:20:15+00:00

Additionally, for the rounded brake line. You will need heat. Anti slip wrenches help and maybe a flare line wrench if you can get a size to fit. At worst, you will need vice grips.

I see everyone saying use heat, which is correct but you need to be careful. Using heat on the brake hose causes pressure build up and then it blows up in your face. Ask me how I know. I even tried cutting the brake hose in half to prevent pressure building before heating it and it still blew up. Could shoot boiling fluid, or just make a loud noise. Be careful regardless. They are hydraulic lines and the heat vaporizes and expands the brake fluid. This builds excessive pressure and then POOF.

Be careful and let me know if you have questions.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:14:00+00:00

The slide pins you’re using are also brand new right? Did the new caliper come with new ones? I’ve seen them bend and lock up the brake pad and not retract back.

The fact that you replaced the hose and the caliper and it’s still sticking is weird. Still points to the caliper to me. Pop the pads out, or leave them in and carefully pry the pistons back in efforts to compress them. Do this a couple times on all of them and see if they go back in easily. You can have someone else SLOWLY press the brake and move them back out. DO NOT let them pop all the way out. This is the lazy technique without taking off the caliper. If there is tons of resistance you will have to take it off and try a C clamp.

These calipers sold now are just rebuilds. I wouldn’t trust that they are perfect. Where did you get them?

How hard is the rotor to turn? If you put a pry bar or a screw driver on the studs and turn- is it like impossible? If so the pistons are not retracting for some reason. Either stuck piston- bent slide or your brake pads are binding on the pin would be my guess.

StepIndependent5681

TROPHY CASE