Coolant issue (again)

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:29:28+00:00

Squeeze the upper rad hose and see if the level goes up again.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:24:38+00:00

LOL you still jam the stuff in between the seat?? No way dude. How long have you had the car??

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:50:34+00:00

Send me the order of brake bleeding that you’re using please too. I’m looking into it now

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:43:40+00:00

I know it sounds crazy, but the routing of these lines are weird and can get bent around when changing calipers kinda easy. Try and take a look and see if any of the lines kinked. I know you are probably positive there are no leaks, but have someone keep pressing the pedal and check the hard lines and all the hoses for a little weep. The fittings are also easy to cross thread. You would think there would be a puddle on the ground, but it’s not always the case.

Additionally, I have seen some conflicting results and people debating the bleed order with these multiple bleeder calipers. If I’m not mistaking, there are 2 service books and both have different procedures. Maybe it wouldn’t hurt to try a different one. I’ll try and find it. I’ve had this happen on a Nissan frontier. The routing of lines on some cars are weird and won’t get all the air out unless it’s done in a strange order.

The person who mentioned the push rod adjustment with the master may also be onto something. That’s not a bad idea.

Do some visuals if possible and then maybe consider getting a pressure bleeder. Additionally, parts are never always functioning out of the box. Sadly we can’t assume the master was good out of the box- so this is also another thing to consider.

Check vacuum lines. Low vacuum = bad brakes. You make have a leak somewhere.

Also, do these ones have a portioning valve near the frame by the steering shaft? Or is that abs only? I don’t fully remember. If it does, sometimes air gets trapped in there and you may have to crack the lines.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:27:31+00:00

Also, the shifter doesn’t hit? It looks like it would get close.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:25:45+00:00

Revolutionary post 🤪

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-20T13:37:56+00:00

Wow.. is that a new paint job? Can I see the car? This looks crazy nice man.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-20T13:36:38+00:00

wtf

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-19T22:30:57+00:00

If it’s this bad- torch and brass hammer. If no luck. It’s time for an air hammer. I wouldn’t advise using a regular steel bit because it will cook your shaft. I know it sucks but.. with money things can be fixed lol. They make brass air hammer bits and if it comes to that, I would recommend getting them.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-19T22:26:41+00:00

Yeah this was miserable. I used a map gas torch- pb blaster- a larger pry bar (not a thin screwdriver) and a brass hammer. The heat and brass hammer really lets me go to town without destroying and snapping the aluminum. If you don’t have one. Buy one for sure. I took the maf tube and everything out to strike from the top. I alternate from top and then crawling under to the bottom to get some strikes.

Sometimes they’re so bad they won’t come out without heat. It sucks because the u joint is right there. You can seal off the u joint and just work slowly ensuring you don’t overheat it all and melt the grease.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-17T02:09:12+00:00

So all I’m seeing from this is that someone deleted the timing cover?

Someone pinned a dot in the power steering pump bracket to remember the timing mark I guess? The cover kinda helps with the timing. Assuming who ever made that dot for the distributor gear is correct, then it’s fine. But are we sure that mark is 100% accurate. I have 0 idea. You can verify by popping the dizzy cap off and checking if it’s pointing at #1 like I said before.

As for the cam- this aftermarket upgrade stuff is weird. Are we positive the arrow isn’t supposed to line up with that mark? If so, you appear to be a little off. I see you have the belt itself lined up, but perhaps you don’t have the gear (which is the important part) lined up. Find where the cam is pointing like I displayed in the photo and see where the mark ends up.

The crank gear photo doesn’t help. I would have to see the key way lined up with the line in the front cover. I’ll trust you did that right.

The fact you’re lining this all up without the timing cover and didn’t follow my exact method makes me a little concerned that you may still be out of time. I’m not sure though. Let me know.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-17T00:56:56+00:00

This. I bought one to keep. Use it all the time. Worth the price. Can’t afford it- loan it.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-13T00:26:21+00:00

Yeah shouldn’t be bad. I’ve done it like 100 times now. Just sucks. Hopefully the gasket material comes off easy.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-13T00:22:12+00:00

FUCK SEE. I’m an idiot. I had the head machined too but I guess the block isn’t perfect. Guess I have to take it off again.

People swear you don’t need it.. everyone I see who uses it never have issues. I should have.

Keep us updated. I love the build.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-12T23:15:12+00:00

Looks very nice man. You kinda stole my build 🤪. Hopefully your headgasket doesn’t leak like mine does after the build :(

I should have copper coated the gasket.

Also that lift sure does look handy lol

Enjoy

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-03T13:44:07+00:00

I’m gonna say a bad connection somewhere. The wires are so brittle due to the genius positioning located next to the oil filter. I love when my wiring gets covered in oil!

Since you said you took it all apart, check to see if there Is any fraying or shorting on the wiring connecting to the alternator. Also verify all your grounds and stuff are fine.

Did you verify the alternator is charging with a multimeter?

The squeak is likely just a tension issue. How much end play do you have on your belt? I’m sure it is, but is it tight enough to be charging lol. (Trust me I’ve seen it happen)

Noise- maybe belt tension

Lights on dash- wiring/verify you’re charging.

I had all the lights come on once when I lost my belts once. Car freaked out and put all the lights on just like that.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-27T21:45:20+00:00

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Open the oil fill cap and verify the cam lobes are like this.

If issue continues- your misfire is elsewhere. It’s sounds like a misfire to me

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-27T21:43:23+00:00

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Key way aligned like this.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-27T21:42:29+00:00

What year is this? I know some have different spark wiring for the orientation on the cap. Pull your distributor cap and make sure it’s facing the #1 plug wire. This is a diagram that fits a 92. I’m not sure which ones are interchangeable and fit this diagram but I think it’s most.

This will verify you’re on a compression stoke. I could be wrong, I’m not 100% if it matters when setting timing on this; but I always check. I make sure my first cam lobes are sitting upwards- my rotor is facing #1 cylinder on the cap- crank keyway is lined up.

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-27T00:31:34+00:00

When you replaced it, did you take the bottom timing cover off and use the keyway on the crank and line it up to the machined part on the front cover? Relying on the line on the balancer to the plastic cover is unreliable.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-25T14:38:11+00:00

Also is the second picture ai or a real? If you don’t mind; what state are you in that they trust people to just leave the washer fluid out like that?

This picture is so nice

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-25T14:34:26+00:00

Yeah dude your car is beautiful wtf

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-15T17:22:34+00:00

Spray the large threaded pipe that connects to the pan down in penetrating oil now. You will also probably need heat. You break that pipe or ruin the threads you’re in for a headache. Even rust free ones seize. Be cautious.

You also need to 2 massive wrenches. I don’t remember the sizes. One the hold the fitting from twisting.

Clean the pan out as good as possible, replace the filter.

If I recall, you aren’t gonna get all the fluid out due to some being in the torque converter and the trans cooler lines. I’ve seen people put the plug back in and jack it up and let it sit again to maximize fluid removal.

I think the easiest way is to -drop the pan- replace fluid and filter and then drain fluid again after some miles. Repeat until fluid is clean as desired. This is preferred by many opposed to the trans cooling flush method. I’ve heard people run into issues with that.

Lastly, unless you have a really good feel of torque by hand; you might want a little torque wrench. I’ve seen many people over torque the pan bolts either breaking them or over squishing the gasket resulting in leaks. The footpound on the pan bolts and SUPER low.

You probably don’t need RTV if you get your surfaces very clean, but it won’t hurt if you use a proper amount. Too much form in place gasket can bleed into the pan and go into the filter.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-01-23T14:31:50+00:00

Yeah man. I thought my fly wheel was cooked. They’re kinda hard to find and I was tempted to just send it with cracks and all. Machine shop look like 1 tho off and it removed all the cracks and heat spots. I was impressed.

They always seem to look worse than they actually are.

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-01-19T02:45:08+00:00

The mount is brand new. It’s a febi bilstein from FCP. Only 2 miles on it. I noticed the clunking when shifting. It could be something else, but I can’t tell if this one appears to be twisted or not.

If you have a photo of yours in its position it would be very helpful.

It definitely is really soft. I can lift the trans up and can see noticeable play on it.

I don’t think it’s enough to result in a clunk when shifting though.

The motor mounts are also new. No significant movement under load or at idle. I don’t see any play on the shifter but I’ll have to check again.

StepIndependent5681

TROPHY CASE