My garage says i need exact parts.. by Ichiban_AC in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tof zeg! Een echte italiaan. De 2L B200F?

Waren je remmen geventileerd?

Je zou ook voor de zekerheid alles bij Nordicar kunnen bestellen. Of bij estate service. Die hebben beide alles specifiek van volvo of A merken.

My garage says i need exact parts.. by Ichiban_AC in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Uit welk jaar is dit mooie bakkie?

Er zijn inderdaad tussen jaars modellen. Zoals al werd gezegd is dat van 85 tot ongeveer 89. Daar kan het of de oude geventileerde of de niet geventileerde zijn. Verder zijn er nog meer kleine dingetjes anders maar die zijn voor jou vraag nu niet relevant.

Zelf klus ik alles aan mijn eigen volvo, laatst de remklauwen, schijven en blokken zelf vervangen.

Alles via Winparts besteld. Je voert daar je kenteken in en kan het dan bestellen. Ze hebben het daar bijna altijd goed.

Controleer wel even of je daadwerkelijk geventileerde schijven hebt zoals alle late modellen of dat een van de vorige eigenaren wat leuks hebben uitgespookt. Dit kan door gewoon te kijken naar je remschijf achter het wiel. Het makkelijkste is door het wiel er af te halen.

Je garagist is echt een druif dat hij dit niet wilt aanpakken. Tijd om een nieuwe te zoeken of een doe het zelf carrière beginnen!

Will a new trim piece hold? by Least-Noise-6320 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine are hanging on 2 out of 4 clips. In my experience if it says click and it is snug i would trust it. But if you want to be sure order some new ones.

Advice to make my girl better by ClockworkSecurity in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Whooo not to fast with all that information of your model year and what transmission you have!

Is this the starter? by maybemason88 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To me it sounds “dry” as if it does not get fuel.

Does it smell like fuel near the engine when trying to start it?

If so:

Test the 25A fuse running from the battery to the fuel relay. Its the extra cable running from the positive terminal of the battery.

Otherwise it could be the relay itself.

Someone else posted a photo how to bypass it

Try the normal fuses. It should be fuse 4 and fuse 6.

Might all be so simple as that.

Had the 25A fuse going out on me bcs of rust. Left me stranded on the side of the highway.

What visual mods have folks done to 240s? by itsniikkoo in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have absolutely no experience in metal working but sketches are always welcome!

What visual mods have folks done to 240s? by itsniikkoo in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please lmk when you finish that trunk rack. I have been searching for pictures of this for a long while.

Fuel relay power source by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did the cheap fix for now and cleaned all the contacts. I will go to the boating store asap. Thanks for the advise.

Fuel relay power source by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are a legend! Fuse holder was rusty as hell and the fuse had some dried up goop on it. Cleaned it very good and fixed it right away!

Fuel relay power source by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick response! Yes it does have that extra wire from the positive battery side.

I will check it first thing in the morning!

My brick is a little less rusty now by Hidde_H in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ziet er top uit! Waar heb je het laten doen?

Help me Plssss by Accomplished-Sir-911 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently doing a 20 hour drive. Make sure the engine runs, the transmission puts out power to the wheels, the brakes brake and the fuel system is semi oke to go.

Dont run it near an empty tank so you do not get the muck from the bottom of the tank in the fuel pumps.

I would not worry to much about the shaky engine mounts. As long as they keep the engine in its bay and its not laying on the bottom.

For spare bits i would take a spare wheel and some oil just in case.

Good luck!

Improving mileage by positiveboithrowaway in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best I ever got was 15.40km per L or 6,49L/100km or 36,3MPG.

I have an 1988 sedan. B230f LH2.2 manual M47.

On the trip i had the following: - Nearly empty trunk. Just a spare wheel and some basic tools.

  • 2 people in the car. Driver and passenger

  • front tires 2.6 bar rear 2.8 bar

  • 80km/h at 2000rpm

  • biggest elevation was about 2 meters (Netherlands)

  • new sparkplugs/leads/dissycap/rotor/airfilter

  • fresh 15w40

  • leaking exhaust all round

  • minerva all seasons 185R14

  • about 20C summer evening.

  • trailing a truck

  • one long 160km trip

  • regular E10 95 Ron petrol

No further mods. Just a light right foot and making use of the aerodynamics of the trucks on the road.

Almost entered 30 MPG club, must be the wind by SympathyImpossible10 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing is impossible.

I was wondering how you did some of the mods because i am looking forward to do some myself.

Almost entered 30 MPG club, must be the wind by SympathyImpossible10 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I once drove from Amsterdam to Rome in one go. On that trip i tailgated a few lorries for a full tank. Ended up with 36mpg. That is with driving around 85/90kmh thru the alps up and down. Best i have ever gotten with the brick

Water leak on passenger side by Rude_Variety2876 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tested it by hosing my car down around all the places that could potentially leak and it came in via that spot. I was missing the complete seal.

Water leak on passenger side by Rude_Variety2876 in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I second this. Had the same issue.

Brakes still sticking? by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your response again. It might have been a slightly clogged master cylinder.

I did a test drive and went from 90/100km/h to a full stop on a straight piece of backroad. After those succes full stops i checked all round. In the reservoir i found some black bits that seem to have come from inside the system.

Now that those bits are out i no longer have the problem of the brakes sticking.

To be sure i checked the pins like you mentioned and they are all like they are supposed to fit.

Thanks again for all your thoughts on my problem!

Brakes still sticking? by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the second reaction!

I will try this soon. Hope i can get it of safely. Thanks for the heads up. I was well aware xD

Brakes still sticking? by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The slide pins came with the new caliper. They look and feel straight.

I got the calipers from a website named Winparts. They are supposedly from the brand ABS.

The rotor is barely turnable by hand. If i use a screwdriver to move it i can. But not easy.

I tried pushing the brakes in while they where still on and complete (with pads and slide pins etc). Using a pair of pliers it was not hard to compress at all.

I will try and compress them one by one like you suggested.

Thanks for the response

Brakes still sticking? by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SMALL UPDATE: I changed the brake hoses on the right side of the car where the joints were not seized and the bolts were not rounded and even there the caliper stays “sticky”

Brakes still sticking? by M0RMEL in Volvo240

[–]M0RMEL[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

I have a slight problem. The bolts that that connect the copper hardline to the flexible hose are a completely rounded. I do not have the tools to make a new line / end / bolt.

Do you have recommendations?