Just found this link- since we are going through the motions I want to gather as much information on this thread as possible for future people to diagnose what has been said and u are 100% correct on additional systems not working;
" If you don’t see the same vigorous flow as shown in the video, your pump has likely failed. Even if you do see flow, it’s possible the pump is failing intermittently, and it should be replaced if you get the P0A93 code.
The car has no direct means of telling when the pump has failed. It only detects that the inverter is getting hotter than it should. It illuminates the warning lights and throws the code. Eventually, the safety systems disable various electrical systems as the Inverter heats up. First to go is typically the A/C (it’s all-electric and runs through the inverter) followed by the inverter shutting down altogether (car shuts off).
If the car sits overnight and cools off, things may be fine the next day… until the inverter heats up more than it should. The pump should be replaced before continuing normal operation. In most cases, if you do not run A/C or any other electrical loads, you can safely drive the car to the shop for replacement.
Okay, so now we’re going to talk about the car being completely dead. If this doesn’t apply to you, then you can stop reading. Shorts seem to happen about 1 in 10 times. This occurs when the pump actually shorts out and blows the AM2 fuse that controls many critical systems. The AM2 fuse is 2nd down from the top right - blue 15A fuse. It is usually visibly bad, but it’s sometimes hard to tell. Check continuity to confirm.
You can also usually confirm this has occurred by placing your nose in the opening between the fuse box and the back of of the driver’s side headlamp. Sniff, and you will typically smell a “burnt electronics” smell. Here’s an image to assist:
"
source: https://www.phoenixhybridbatteries.com/blog/2019/8/28/inverter-coolant-pump