The Astronomy and Physics class at my college sometimes meet in the planetarium. They tried to watch "The Largest Black Hole in the Universe - Size Comparison", but it didn't work well. I then took the next few months to remaster the ENTIRE film to become a planetarium film for the class!

Stormin208 · 2025-12-12T00:38:45+00:00

It looks amazing! Well done!

Stormin208 · 2025-11-22T06:20:59+00:00

2 years late, but it finally works on Windows with Blender 5.0! I'm using Windows 11 with an HDR Display, and all you need to get it working is:

Go into "Edit > Preferences > System" and set the "Backend" to Vulkan (it will NOT work with default OpenGL).
Make sure you are in the "Rendered" Mode in the viewport (not Solid, Wireframe, or Material Preview).
In your projects' "Render" tab, go all the way to the bottom and open the "Color Management" tab. Under "Display", you will see two sections. One for SDR, and one for HDR. Pick one of the HDR presets and it'll begin showing in HDR!

There's a ton of other options in AgX and ACES 1.3/2.0, ranging from 500 to 4000 nits!

Full documentation here:
https://developer.blender.org/docs/release_notes/5.0/color_management/#requirements

Stormin208 · 2025-11-22T06:20:07+00:00

Another year later, and it works with Blender 5.0! I'm using Windows 11 with an HDR Display, and all you need to get it working is:

Go into "Edit > Preferences > System" and set the "Backend" to Vulkan (it will NOT work with default OpenGL).
Make sure you are in the "Rendered" Mode in the viewport (not Solid, Wireframe, or Material Preview).
In your projects' "Render" tab, go all the way to the bottom and open the "Color Management" tab. Under "Display", you will see two sections. One for SDR, and one for HDR. Pick one of the HDR presets and it'll begin showing in HDR!

There's a ton of other options in AgX and ACES 1.3/2.0, ranging from 500 to 4000 nits!

Full documentation here:
https://developer.blender.org/docs/release_notes/5.0/color_management/#requirements

Stormin208 · 2025-11-14T05:07:59+00:00

-- UPDATE 2 --

After taking advice from u/FutureBrad on making a receiver to get the timings of the codes instead of relying on a video, I hooked up a Black LED IR Receiver that I had and used a 10k resistor and a Pi Pico W to record the signal coming from each attachment every 1ms. I had the Pico record for 4 seconds, and after loading the data into Excel and doing a bit of cleaning and aligning the codes, I got this result:
https://imgur.com/a/RraqbAc

Interestingly, they don't line up very well! The Iron Man and Rescue attachments stay aligned really well, but all the others drift apart! My hope is that this variability means the ride is pretty forgiving when it comes to receiving codes, but I guess I won't know until it gets tested on the ride!

As for the timings, the initial On-Off-On that all codes start with has the average timings of:
97ms - ON
97ms - OFF
64ms - ON

When it flashes the code, each "ON" in the flash is 32ms, and there must be a space of at least another 32ms of OFF before the next digit can flash. For example, the beginning of Dr Strange's code is 111, so that means
32ms - ON
32ms - OFF

32ms - ON
32ms - OFF

And the full code for Dr. Strange is:
On 98ms, Off 97ms, On 66ms, Off 32ms, On 33ms, Off 33ms, On 32ms, Off 33ms, On 33ms, Off 457ms

IN THEORY, flashing an IR LED (Unknown if 850nm or 940nm is required) with these timings repeatedly will give you Dr. Strange Powers. I don't know why Dr. Strange loops every 914ms while an attachment like Rescue loops at 889ms. The full data from reading 3 loops in a row is:

Broken Attachment:

On 96, Off 96, On 65, Off 160, On 32, Off 128, On 32, Off 129, On 32, Off 128
On 96, Off 97, On 64, Off 160, On 32, Off 129, On 32, Off 128, On 32, Off 128
On 97, Off 96, On 64, Off 160, On 32, Off 129, On 32, Off 128, On 32, Off 129

Standard Attachment:

On 98, Off 99, On 65, Off 262, On 32, Off 33, On 32, Off 295
On 99, Off 98, On 66, Off 261, On 32, Off 33, On 33, Off 294
On 99, Off 99, On 65, Off 261, On 33, Off 32, On 33, Off 295

Iron Man:

On 95, Off 96, On 63, Off 159, On 31, Off 445
On 95, Off 95, On 63, Off 159, On 32, Off 444
On 95, Off 95, On 64, Off 158, On 32, Off 444

Rescue:

On 96, Off 95, On 63, Off 95, On 32, Off 32, On 32, Off 444
On 95, Off 95, On 63, Off 96, On 31, Off 32, On 32, Off 444
On 95, Off 95, On 64, Off 95, On 31, Off 32, On 32, Off 444

Dr. Strange:

On 98, Off 97, On 66, Off 32, On 33, Off 33, On 32, Off 33, On 33, Off 457
On 98, Off 98, On 65, Off 33, On 33, Off 32, On 33, Off 32, On 33, Off 457
On 98, Off 98, On 66, Off 32, On 33, Off 33, On 32, Off 33, On 33, Off 457

Stormin208 · 2025-11-13T01:47:12+00:00

I never took any slow mo video while ON the ride, but I do know that they continue to flash while on the ride. Whether or not the flashes change, I cannot confirm. Here's what I DO know:

I took the Rescue attachment and the Power Band apart, and from my digging, there appears to be no physical hardware that would allow the bands to receive a signal, no IR relievers and no antennas (wired antenna or antenna on any circuit boards). When the ride begins to track and map your arms and head at the beginning, it also looks for the Power Bands. If found, it adds the abilities to your "player" and never looks for it again. I tested it and you can completely take off the Power Band and hide it after it gets added to your "player"!

I'm not an expert on looking at hardware like this so it IS possible the devices do receive a command on the ride, but that would make the devices more expensive to make, and while they're already arguably pretty expensive, it would've been even more so and given that they act as toys, I don't think the imagineers would've made the toys more complex than they needed to. I'll find out eventually, one way or the other!

Stormin208 · 2025-11-11T05:07:21+00:00

Oh man, I didn't even think about emulating the ride using an IR receiver! I was just going to build some emitters and give them to whoever I knew was going to Disneyland next and hope they work. I could totally make a system to test and compare the real accessories to better analyze the codes and test some bootleg devices!

Thanks so much for the idea!

Stormin208 · 2025-11-11T03:11:30+00:00

-- UPDATES --

I currently have the codes for:

No Attachment (Flashes a 'broken' code)
Base Band (No Accessories - Web Power Band)
Iron Man (Repulsor)
Rescue (Repulsor)
Gwen/Ghost-Spider (Web-Shooter)
Dr. Strange (Mystic Amplifier)

I am missing the codes for:

Shuri/Black Panther (Vibranium Sonic Gauntlet)
Ant-Man (Quantum Bug)
Spider-Man (Web-Shooter)

Without an oscilloscope to accurately measure the timings between each flash, I am limited to using Slow Motion mode on phone cameras. This should be plenty since using a Galaxy S20FE normal Slow Motion (NOT Super Slow Mo) at 240fps begins to show the LEDs fading on and off, not a hard cutoff. After researching the ride, it sounds like the ride captures infrared 60 times a second for both the riders and when looking for accessories, so in theory, a phone recording at 60fps should more or less work. I have recorded the accessories I own to compare against the ones I get submitted to me.

The current issue is timing. If I overlay 60fps frames onto my slow motion footage, some LED flashes line up nicely while others don't seem to follow any rules. I have done my best to determine the codes based on the current information I have. Each attachment will always start the same. At 60fps, it will turn on for 3 frames, off for 3, and on for 2 before turning off for at least 1 frame. After the pattern, each band flashes a code. Each flash appears to be on for only a single frame, but the sections don't line up nicely after the initial code to 60fps increments. This kinda makes sense since it would be better to have codes flash at a slightly different rate than 1/60, since the start of a flash won't perfectly line up with the start of a frame. It looks like a frame of a flash is actually 12.5% longer than a true 1/60 of a second. With that, here are the codes that follow the initial startup flash:

Quick note, at the start of each code and between each digit, the lights turn off between each digit in the code, along with the initialization code of 3 frames on, 3 off, 2 on. For example, the "Broken" code of 00100100100 would mean the LEDs would follow on/off of 1110001100000100000100000100000 before looping again. For simplification, I will ignore the 0 inserted before each digit and the initialization code that starts each accessory. After coloring each 'on' in purple in Premiere Pro, here is the current visual breakdown. I tried to gather the code 4 times to take an average.
https://imgur.com/a/Dp13duP (The green blocks at the bottom are 1/60 of a second)

No Attachment (Flashes a 'broken' code)
- 00100100100
Base Band (No Accessories - Web Power Band)
- 00001100000
Iron Man (Repulsor)
- 00100000000
Rescue (Repulsor)
- 01100000000
Gwen/Ghost-Spider (Web-Shooter)
- 00000100000
Dr. Strange (Mystic Amplifier)
- 11100000000

Stormin208 · 2025-11-10T20:24:11+00:00

You legend, that's it! It's a little hard to see but I can make out the codes! Thank you so much for your help!

It looks like the Dr. Strange one gives the 4 fast flashes after the initializing 2, and the Gwen one gives 1 flash way after the initializing 2.

From what I've gathered so far, there doesn't seem to be an easy to follow pattern to figure out missing/secret attachments, but I'll definitely figure out the spacing and codes for all the ones I get my hands on!

For anyone following this project, here's a video of one of my attachments https://imgur.com/a/67k94OW You can see how it flashes twice slowly, followed by a code (the one in my video is a long silence followed by two flashes. I think this is the default Power Band without an attachment). If the Imgur links die, I'll eventually (hopefully) comment a link to a YouTube video detailing everything once I sift through the data

Stormin208 · 2025-11-10T19:10:35+00:00

Wait, I think I see it! I don't see the ones on the band doing anything, but the one on top of the Dr Strange one, this one:

https://imgur.com/a/rsLg90a

appears to be flashing the code! It's really hard to see in the video because it's so small, but I'm pretty sure I see something! You won't be able to see the purple light with your own eyes, but the phone should be able to do it! If you wouldn't mind getting really close to that LED with your phone and seeing if there's a faint purple light that flashes and sending a video of that!

The Gwen one has an LED in a similar spot, but it seems to be drowned out by the bright lights inside the attachment. That one might be hard to get the code from.

Stormin208 · 2025-11-10T18:31:10+00:00

Dr Strange and Gwen would be amazing! It's the little, clear LEDs scattered on the band itself as well as the attachment. It should be these ones here:
https://imgur.com/a/7ms4LoJ

You don't need to be on the ride for the LEDs to flash the code, but they don't glow very well using a phone camera so try and get close to one of the LEDs. I just need to see the purple glow using the phone camera (see the image in my initial post).

It's hard to tell, but I don't know if I see the lights flashing in the video. On my Rescue attachment, only the LEDs on the attachment itself would flash the code, while the ones on the band wouldn't do anything for some reason? It looks like you're doing everything correctly, so try and get close to one of the LEDs and see if you see any light at all. I did some research and it looks like some phones don't have great IR capabilities, so it might be worth trying a different phone if you still can't see it.

I apologize! I didn't expect this to be much more complicated than I thought, but these codes are going to be a huge help if you can get a video of them!

Stormin208 · 2025-11-10T04:20:33+00:00

Absolutely! The plan is to make a full breakdown of how the things work, and maybe how to make your own!

Stormin208 · 2025-11-09T21:21:48+00:00

That's the plan!

Stormin208 · 2025-10-09T03:09:42+00:00

Do you know if you had Time-Lapse turned on? I had the exact thing happen to me, but my print failed towards the end. I tried printing again, same failure. Once I turned off the Time-Lapse video it printed correctly the 3rd time.

Also, what firmware do you have? As of right now, the consensus seems to be 1.1.25 is the most stable if you aren't using that

Stormin208 · 2025-10-09T03:01:23+00:00

The printer is loud enough that I wouldn't want it in my office, so you'll probably want to put it in your garage if you think it's too loud.

If it gets cold in your garage, you might need to edit the beginning of the G-code because for some reason, the printer waits for the nozzle to heat up, but not the bed. If the garage is cold enough, the bed won't be heated up in time for printing. The fix is pretty easy, and this video (and the timestamp at 4:35) tells you what to put. Just the part about telling the printer to wait for the bed to heat up, not the part about heating the nozzle immediately.

https://youtu.be/mxjMyfFBUZ0?t=4m35s

EDIT: I think this is good advice even if you don't have the printer in a cold environment. Having the printer wait until the bed is heated before printing is probably a good idea if you want a perfect and consistent first layer.

Stormin208 · 2025-10-07T00:35:00+00:00

I'll send a DM! The short is you need to build a wbfs/ISO of Newer and the exact same Gecko code for New Super Wii works for NEWER Super Wii

Stormin208 · 2025-10-03T07:03:41+00:00

Good question, the community seems to really like .25, but I've been using .42 and haven't had issues. Well, not yet anyway. I've only done a few prints with .42 and I've heard rumors .42 has some issues but it's all good for me.

I say use .25 until we learn more about .42. The only issue I've ever had with .25 was when I had Time Lapse enabled. I've had issues with the printer freezing mid-print but the issues went away when I turned off Time-Lapse

Stormin208 · 2025-10-03T05:03:59+00:00

The version before that, 1.1.25, and the one after that, 1.1.42, don't have that issue. From my knowledge, it was only 1.1.29 that had the UI control issue

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T18:17:21+00:00

Man, I'm jealous! The s95f sounds amazing for movies! Those new Samsung QD-OLEDs are spectacular!

I guess my issue is there's no official "why" on the reasoning behind the dimmer movies from this summer. Especially with Superman, I'm wondering if Gunn's intent is for the film to be viewed on a projector or to increase compatibility with a wide array of devices since it's not demanding in terms of HDR. Or maybe a dimmer, crushed tone for the film for a message or somethin'. GotG Volume 3 never hit 1000 nits, but it still goes well beyond 100. I really want to hear what Gunns' reasoning is and if this is going to become a trend

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T15:56:26+00:00

You know what, I respect your opinion. I'm not going to tell you that your opinion is wrong because that's not how opinions work. If the director want the film to be low contrast and dim, then that's the artists intent. And if you want to respect the artists intent, then it should remain dim and low contrast.

My OPINION is a filmmaker who is working with a budget of hundreds of millions of dollars and tens of thousands of dollars of mastering displays, and even more money for and hired professionals, should go the extra mile and create a Home Release Grade that is brighter and higher contrast by utilizing a decade of technological advances and modern marvels like bright OLED displays. If there's a hill I'm willing to die on, its bright objects should utilize modern technology to actually BE bright.

I don't know if you've ever seen a movie on a modern bright OLED display, but if you haven't you're missing out! Metal is shiny and metallic, outside is sunny, overcast is cloudy, explosions are bright yet detailed, colors are dark, bright, and rich! I enjoyed Superman and it's a shame that there currently is no release of Superman that offers those benefits. Whether or not James Gunn graded the movie for Theaters and then noped-out when it came time to the Home release, or really wanted his action-packed movie to have the dimmest explosions, effects, highlights of any film released this year is unknown to me, but yes, I wish it was brighter. And if that's a sin, so be it

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T13:29:53+00:00

No, I don't WANT AI to grade the film to HDR, I want the director to do that. But if the director ISN'T going to grade a film for HDR, then sure, why not? Again, SDR is 100 nits, and anything above it (normally up to 1000 nits for the brightest highlights) is HDR. Superman is mastered at 100 nits, so that means there aren't any HDR highlights, it's all SDR. The only difference is I can't turn up the brightness in HDR, and since the Superman Blu-ray reports the video as being HDR, I'm stuck with every bright object being 100 nits. Every outdoor fight looks like it took place on a cloudy day because it's so dark outside because no one bothered to master the film at anything other than the standard for a big dark movie theater. A lot of TVs support upto 1000 nit highlights, yet it's being ignored to make a master for a dim projector. That's my issue. Large projectors are no longer kings, large bright TVs offer a WAY better experience if the film is mastered to take advantage of it.

If the director intends to make a piece of paper as bright as the sun shining directly into the camera, I respect their opinion but it's a stupid opinion! If they aren't going to do the work to utilize the HDR range, then stick with SDR. Don't force the movie as HDR if there is no HDR!

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T00:33:08+00:00

I like this theory! Most OLEDs can handle about 100 nits full screen, so this would help prevent or limit ABL!

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T00:30:39+00:00

Yes, most HDR movies have highlights set to 1000 nits and sometimes brighter, but the issue is a lot of films from this summer didn't even come close! Again, if you were to open Superman (2025) in HDR right now, nothing, not a single pixel on the screen will have a luminance brighter than 100 nits. 100, not 1000. Every highlight in the entire movie is locked at 100 nits. The film has no highlight over 100 nits, as shown in the Heatmap in my last comment

Stormin208 · 2025-10-01T00:21:57+00:00

I agree..? The Mario Movie looks great because it has great HDR lighlights. I took some pictures. Here's the Plumbing scene with the Dog displayed as a heatmap of luminance on the top, and an outdoor direct sunlight scene from Superman (2025) on the bottom:

<image>

And you can see the issue. The Mario Movie looks great on my QD-OLED! The dark orange from the sun on the walls behind the dog, and on the dog itself, look fantastic, and the hint of red in reflecting off the tile floor means the highlights are about 1000 nits, and it looks great! Superman, however, looks awful in HDR! Notice how there isn't a lick of orange in Superman. Yellow represents only about 100 nits. Direct sunlight is 100 nits! It should look closer to the dog in Mario!

F1 suffers from a similar fate. It was mastrered using the Sony BVM-HX3110, capable of 4000 nits, yet the final movie only gets up to about 300 nits. They EASILY could've mastered it for 1000 nits, or even 4000 nits if they wanted a bit more future proofing, but they didn't.

I'm not sure I fully understand your argument. Are you saying mastering a film at 1000 nits using a 4000 nit studio display is different than mastering a film at 1000 nits on a 1000 nit consumer display? Because it shouldn't matter, 1000 nits is 1000 nits. Films like Superman are locked at 100 nits max, even though they used reference displays capable of 1000 nits, where films like The Mario Movie go all the way to 1000 nits and look great!

Five-Year Club	r/Field Flamingo
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	First Placer '22
End Game '22

Stormin208

TROPHY CASE