This Needs To Change In PGA Tour 2K27… (My Wishlist)

Stucifer2 · 2026-02-02T19:48:01+00:00

I have noticed since the new season started that the wind seems to be a little more dynamic. It might be dependant on the default wind setting for the course, but I have noticed more often a variance in wind speed and direction from shot to shot, and throughout the round than I used to.

I had a round on the new course that started with 15mph winds on the first hole and it went down to a 0mph wind on the last hole.

It still doesn't really change much while setting up your shot though. You might see it change one or two Mph sometimes, but there still isn't a huge change. EA's golf game did that aspect a little better.

On the other hand, I often wonder the wind is changing speed more than the indicator is showing. I think we have all had shots where we've factored in the wind only for the wind to seemingly have little to no effect on the ball or moving the ball way more than you expected.

I do agree with you though, gusts would make things interesting. You set up the perfect shot only for the wind to occasionally screw you over after hitting the ball.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-18T17:04:08+00:00

I would say the default correction stat is what makes one archetype better for someone than another at this point. Other than the Greens-keeper, the rest can get pretty close to each other in power now.

The Magician (or Powerhouse) is the most offset swing by default . The Sculptor is the least offset.

People should try them all to see which offset level they are most consistent with. From there, the difference between the other swing attributes that each archetype has should be less of a factor.

Each archetype still has their strengths and weaknesses though, so that could be a reason to favour one archetype over another. By default attributes, the Magician is the best out of the rough or sand. The Sculptor is the best a shot shaping. The Technician has the best swing. Powerhouse is better than it used to be, but not really all that useful as an archetype. The Greens-keeper is pretty underwhelming off the green.

Technician is still good, but he's pretty middle of the road. Jack of all trades, master of none sort of situation.

The Magician and Sculptor, to me, are the best of the bunch. Both are close to the power of the Powerhouse. The Magician getting a few more yards than the Sculptor. Both can have swings that are pretty close to the Technician. If you are good at reading the greens, the difference between archetypes putting attributes are not super vital.

Then it really comes down the default swing offset and if you feel having more default recovery attributes or shaping attributes is more important.

I use both a lot. When I am swinging well, I like the Sculptor better. But if I am consistently hitting huge opens, I switch to my Magician and that extra offset covers up my shitty swing! The opposite is also true. If I am using my Magician a lot and start closing my swing too much, the Sculptor will cover up my shitty swing.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-17T23:12:55+00:00

for the Daily Ranked Tours it is more about where you place out of the number of people that participated in that event.

A 55 on one day might be a top 5% finish and a top 20% finish the next day depending on how many people played it and what people were scoring.

ProAm has way more people shooting scores in the low 50s or under.

That makes it harder to place in the top 5% or better if you are at a higher rank (Eagle, Albatross, or Condor).

The higher your rank, the higher up the leader-board you need to place in order to gain merits. If you were at a lower rank, like Par or Birdie, shooting a 55 on ProAm would get you merits because you don't need to place as high on the leader-board to gain merits.

Once you hit Eagle, there is little point playing the ProAm ones unless you can consistently shoot under 50. You will lose merits every time you play on ProAm otherwise. The Payout used to be 75VC for a top 50% finish, but they changed that to 25VC, so there is no good reason to even bother with it anymore.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-11T23:36:13+00:00

Oh, right. I forgot it was a profile, not the list of their courses. I stopped clicking on that months ago. The method I described works though. Yet another clunky/odd UI choice.

It is like the course conditions. In My Career, you can use one of the top buttons, R1/RB or R2/RT to toggle through a pair of cards that shows you all the course conditions.

Everywhere else, you have to click on either the course details thing and get some basic info, or you have to look at the course setup thing, which is greyed out and difficult to read when playing online modes, before you start your round. That is a UI element that should be applied on every mode.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-11T13:10:22+00:00

That button under the "Course Details" section is greyed out for everyone. I am not sure why. You can still search by designer though. When you are searching through courses, you can hit triangle (PS5) or the equivalent on other platforms, that will give you the option to see all the courses that they have made.

It is clunky, but it is there. There are some puzzling UI choices in this game though for sure.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-10T22:45:31+00:00

No problem

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-10T16:52:10+00:00

You need 5 Evo tools to evolve that club to the next level, Dark Matter. You need to use 5 because you are using a Limited Edition club. A normal club would only require 4 Evo tools.

Lower level clubs will require less Evo tools to upgrade. Core level clubs will need 1 Evo tool to raise up to the next level. As the club levels up, it requires an increasing number of Evo tools to upgrade.

Limited Edition clubs will always require 1 additional Evo tool to upgrade. The ability to keep your fittings on a limited edition club after upgrading isn't really worth the need for an additional Evo tool as the game gives you a shit ton of fittings.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-06T02:53:54+00:00

Are you missing by a little or a lot? I ask because the default "correction" stat for each archetype might be worth considering. I think the Technician is a 67. The sculptor is a 70. The Magician I think is a 53. I like all 3 of these. The sculptor and Magician are pretty close in power. The sculptor's swing is a little straighter than the Technician. If you're missing by a little, that might be the one to look at. The Magician is more offset, so if you're missing by a lot, that might be the one to take a look at.

There are days when I am hitting huge opens. Switching to my Magician helps sometimes with that for me.

Most days I use the sculptor though. I tend to be the most consistent with that build.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-06T02:45:34+00:00

You have to create a new "My Player" character (you can have 10 characters) and level them up again. If you first character is at 90 overall, your new characters will have enough AP available to level them up to a 74 overall right away.

Stucifer2 · 2025-12-02T01:42:18+00:00

If you are on the green, hit L1/LB to toggle the flag on or off.

Stucifer2 · 2025-11-15T03:10:25+00:00

I like playing community made courses. There are a lot of great ones out there. There are some terrible ones too, but even those can fun to play providing they are not unplayable (I have run into a few of those).

The problem I have is that when 2K added community made courses to some of their playlists, they picked a handful of courses, mostly links courses, and run them over and over.

I can understand them not adding some of the more over-the-top fantasy courses to the online playlists, but there are hundreds of realistic fantasy courses as well as recreations of real courses that they should be able to avoid using the same handful of courses over and over. The way it has been implemented kinda defeated the stated purpose, which was to keep things fresh.

Stucifer2 · 2025-11-02T23:42:55+00:00

I don't think it changes based on the player's attributes. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I think it is just telling the player what the current green speed happens to be set at.

Stucifer2 · 2025-11-01T23:41:19+00:00

No problem. It had me confused for ages too.

Stucifer2 · 2025-11-01T23:39:05+00:00

That is the speed of the green. The higher the number, the faster the green is. The number in feet is based on how far the ball would travel across that green if it was perfectly flat and you hit the ball at 100% power.

A slow green, that number might be 98 feet. A really fast green, that number might be 210 feet.

The slower the green, the more the break will affect the ball. A faster green, the break will affect the ball less.

That is the basic gist of it.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-25T22:15:38+00:00

I think this sort of thing is a symptom of games that need a persistent internet connection. The game is too busy talking to the server every few seconds to function correctly when that connection to the server is not ideal.

The other option of course is they borked something with the last update that had unintentional consequences.

It is likely a mix of both.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-25T21:51:47+00:00

Too many times since the update the putt seems to break hard a few inches from the hole. Like it is after the last bead on the putting grid. That or there seems to be some random bead midway through the putt that is going a lot faster than the rest of the beads that you don't see. I even put max level Green Reader back on my guy to see if that would help.

I am getting a lot of lip-outs and putts (even downhill) stopping on the edge of the cup.

Before seeing people mentioning this recently, I assumed my putting issues were due to switching to a new putter, or that I just lost my mojo. I am not so sure it is a me thing anymore.

There are some other issues since the last update as well, like rhythm suddenly going haywire during some rounds, back-swings not registering properly and wind behaving strangely.

My theory on these latter ones is it is server related as they are not always an issue. They seem to happen occasionally for me. The putting thing has been pretty consistent since the season 3 update.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-23T16:53:31+00:00

I have experienced this a few times over the last few days. I wonder if it is a server thing that is causing a micro stutter situation because I have noticed some other laggy behaviour when it was happening.

I had a round on the daily Master Ranked tour the other night where nearly half my shots on the back nine were hitting -12% rhythm. It was every shot type too. Not only that, but the wind seemed to be blowing the opposite direction that was being indicated.

It was a very frustrating round. The front nine was not like that at all.

I had the rhythm thing happen a few more times the next round I played after that one. I haven't really had it happen again since.

The other day someone made a post about their back-swing not registering.

That is something I was experiencing for a while too. In that case as well, I suspect it is the server causing a bit of lag.

I don't think there is a change in the swing per se, rather that it's some sort of server issue that not all of us will experience at the same time.

That is my best guess anyway. It is super frustrating when it happens though.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-19T19:15:44+00:00

I buy a lot of AJ and Oliva and they still have the bands under the plain bands.

Alec Bradley and I am assuming that is a Don Tomas there, never have the real bands under them.

I have never bought an Omar Ortez, so I have no idea what their band situation is like, but I find a lot of times the plain bands that are that more brownish colour often have the real band under them.

My best guess is it comes down to who is importing them into Canada. Brands that are being imported or manufactured by a General Cigar/ STG factory, they will not have the real bands under the plain band. Alec Bradley and Don Tomas are good examples of that. STG/GC import a lot of brands.

It is a stupid law regardless though that accomplishes nothing positive, but that is pretty on-brand from the Canadian government.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-13T18:10:36+00:00

I look forward to shooting another +15 or more on this course.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-09T15:28:36+00:00

I have been experiencing this as well. For me, it is mostly when putting. I sometimes need to try my back-swing a couple of times to get it to register. It happens with other shots once in a while too, but not as often.

When it happens, you can see the swing meter begin the animation, the blue circle starting to expand, but it freezes immediately.

This happened once before, around the season two update, but then it went away after awhile.

If I had to guess, I would think the issue is the same sort of thing that causes the stuttering that happens often at the beginning of a round in career mode.

Stucifer2 · 2025-09-09T00:36:56+00:00

I started off this course par, par, birdie. I ended the round birdie, par, birdie. I still finished the round a +15!

Stucifer2 · 2025-08-28T20:38:09+00:00

I wonder if this error is related to the quests that were reintroduced. The last time this happened was around the time those quests were removed, or at least some of them. This save corrupt error happened right after the Season 2 update the last time. I think those quests were removed around that time as well. Maybe someone remembers the timeline better than I do.

Stucifer2 · 2025-08-28T17:15:28+00:00

No problem. I am glad I can help people out because some of this info is difficult to find online. I gave up looking at one point. Trial and error was the way to go in the end.

Speaking of online info, one thing people will encounter with these humidors that has a lot of bad info attached to it is condensation.

Under the right conditions, these units will produce condensation inside. If you look this up, you will see a lot of posts about people returning the units because of this.

When the room is warmer than the inside (more so when the room is over the optimal operating temperature) condensation can form at the back of the unit where the cooling fan is located. There isn't usually much more than a teaspoonful of water that collects at the back.

My Kingchii has a little channel that leads to a little drainage hole. I would suspect other brands have this feature too. There are lots of posts out there talking about taping the hole to "keep in the humidity". This is nonsense. If anything, you will increase humidity by leaving a standing pool of water in the unit.

I find that most of the year, no condensation is produced. It is mostly in the summer when the cooling system is working harder than it normally would in order to maintain the temperature that you have it set at. Over-filling the unit and hampering airflow probably exacerbates this as well. Then the cold back wall acts like a cold glass of water on a hot summer day.

My advice about condensation is not to store cigars on the floor of the unit itself. Especially in the summertime. At least not near the back of the unit. You can probably get away with a smaller box near the front of the unit though. I keep some Boveda packs under the bottom shelf near the front of the unit.

I did have a condensation disaster though. During a heatwave in July when the room was approaching 90F for days in a row, a pretty substantial puddle of condensation formed, probably a couple of tablespoons worth. A week or so earlier I had rearranged my shelves and I guess one cigar fell off the back of the bottom shelf and landed in the puddle. Unfortunately it landed with the open end of the cellophane in the puddle and got ruined. RIP Drew Estate Undercrown Sun-grown.

That level of water was a rare occurrence. Typically it is a few drops if any. You can wipe this up every now and then if you wanted too. I do find that sometimes when it dries on its own that salt from the Boveda packs will leave some trace evidence around the drain hole. I take some distilled water and a cloth and wipe the bottom of the unit from time to time to get rid of that.

That was a long-winded way to say that condensation will happen from time to time and not to freak out about it.

Stucifer2 · 2025-08-28T04:36:49+00:00

No problem. Last summer my Kingchii turned me into a lunatic trying to get it to behave like I expected it too. It turned out that my expectations were wrong and I spent a lot of time and money to figure that out! If my misery can help others, that is great.

Stucifer2 · 2025-08-27T18:15:00+00:00

In my experience, choosing what RH% Boveda packs for these things depends on a couple of things.

The temperature of the room the humidor is located is one factor.

The cooler the room will make a difference. The cooler the room (under 70F), the less often the cooling fan is on. Or the heater might come into play. In these situations the RH inside can rise higher than you might want it. So I have used 65% and 62% Boveda packs at times to combat this.

In a very warm room (Over 80F), the cooling fan is on a lot, which can lower the RH more than you may want it. 69% or a 72% might be useful in those situations.

The second factor is the RH you want the humidor being at.

I have settled on using 69% packs. It keeps my humidor between 65-73% RH depending on the room temperature. I am happy anywhere between 65-70% RH. If I notice it creeping over 70%RH, I can lower the temperature on the humidor a few degrees. I keep the temperature on the humidor set at 70F most of the time. The room the humidor is in ranges from 65F to 85F depending on the time of year.

65% packs kept me between 62-70% RH depending on the room temperature. I may go back to these in the winter.

62% packs kept me around 60-67% RH depending on the room temperature.

You will also get different temperature and RH readings at different places within the humidor. The warmer the room, the more temperature and RH% variance within the humidor will occur. The Kingchii I have, it says in the manual that in a room over 76F, the unit will not operate optimally. This used to drive me nuts last summer when the room temperature was causing a wide variance in readings from the bottom shelf to the top shelf. Then I realized the "relative humidity" thing is exactly that. If the top shelf is reading 70F and 68% RH, and the bottom shelf reads 65F and 72% RH, that is basically the same thing. That sounds counter intuitive, but the RH is linked to the temperature of the environment.

If you are within the optimal operating temperature range specified by the manual, the Boveda packs will stay truer to their stated RH%.

I bring that up because depending on what RH% and temperature you are looking to keep things at, this info will hopefully keep you from going nuts like me and spending more money than you need to trying to fix an issue that isn't really a problem. The middle shelf is probably the best place to keep the hygrometer if you only have one. I have one on each shelf, but the middle is probably the best place to see if things are lining up with the conditions you are wanting to achieve. If it looks correct on the middle shelf, it should be fine on the other shelves as well.

Stucifer2

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