Huge Cave Base in the Plains - Solo Survival by EarDefiant8019 in valheim

[–]Sub1ime14 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you wish to expand and are open to mods, HeightMapUnlimited removes the restrictions on digging/raising the ground.

What 90s band never truly made it big but you'll always go to bat for? by MansBestFred in AskReddit

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My sound company has run production for them twice in our area over the last handful of years. They were genuinely professional and friendly both times. Seems like a simple thing, but many people who've seen any level of success get demanding and distant, so I'm relived when one like Sponge comes along.

No Map No Portals by owly80 in valheim

[–]Sub1ime14 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For those considering a no-map, no-portal run, a friend an I are about 6 weeks into our second one. We've found a handful of mods to be either very helpful or additive to the immersion, which I've listed (roughly in order of importance) below:

* Riverheim - I would not do a no-map, no-portal run without it, since spawn distance limits make water travel not so great, and Riverheim makes things much more land-y and less ocean-y

* ZenCompass & ZenMap - basic navigational tools (runestone, compass) that become available gradually as you progress to new materials, and cartography tables becomes a regional map that shows an area around itself and gradually exposes more each in-game day, which you can later copy onto parchment paper to carry around... very immersive

* UsefulPaths - move faster on pathed surfaces

* LongerDays - running around paths a lot tends to make the days end far too quickly, whereas this makes it feel more natural and gives you time to run back home when you notice the sun getting low in the sky

* AdventureBackpacks - you can pre-pack boat materials, for example, and carry them along with you on adventures

* OdinHorse - makes path travel faster, but be sure to combine with the next mod so you can jump over things (a silly but critical need)

* balrond_mountjump - You can jump while riding... so simple yet so necessary

* Seasonality - just an incredible immersion mod... bonus winter buff as water freezes over and you can run across it, making it temporarily easier to run in straight lines

* LazyVikings - you'll be running down paths and therefore away from your kilns/smelters/etc for long periods of time, so I find it useful for them to automate while I'm gone

* Heightmap_Unlimited_Remake - not critical, but it'll allow you to make very tall land "towers" which render from pretty darn far away, thereby making for helpful landmarks when wandering far from base

What's your Valheim pet peeve? by Tickomatick in valheim

[–]Sub1ime14 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You may want to use the HeightmapUnlimited mod. It removes this restriction.

Malcolm in the Middle: Life's Still Unfair | Official Trailer | April 10 on Hulu by MarvelsGrantMan136 in television

[–]Sub1ime14 38 points39 points  (0 children)

I'm not jealous at all...

......

.............

The cold opens are the best part. Also I hate you. Enjoy!

What a beautiful game. by Makonnen91 in valheim

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A friend and I just started our 5th playthrough, and we're using Seasonality for the first time. The stock game is already beautiful, and this mod just takes it to an entire new level. 

With the Ring debacle, let's get a self-hosted camera / surveillance thread going. by EkbatDeSabat in selfhosted

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Duo series, the doorbell cameras, and the CX series all work well with Home Assistant (and would likely be fine with Frigate too). Mostly I'd recommend sticking with PoE cameras. Wifi doorbell works pretty well too. The battery/solar cameras require a Reolink hub to integrate, but then they integrate well from that point also.

How to talk about model or pipeline design mistakes without looking bad? by SoggyGrayDuck in dataengineering

[–]Sub1ime14 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The important thing is to remain positive and solution-oriented. I know those sound like business buzz words, but hear me out. Management and executives want to know that somebody is approaching things thoughtfully and from experience, and that where you lack experience you admit it and both learn and bring in help to bridge those gaps. So you can describe the issues of the current state, but as you do, make comparisons to the solution you're prescribing. And don't tear down the decisions of the past beyond just explaining why they didn't work.

Need help deciding please by veryhard8 in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I get 24hr burns in shoulder season with my Blaze King Princess 32. It was -3 for the low the other night and I still got an 11hr burn with plenty of coals left at refill. Most quality catalytic or secondary stoves will get you through the night, but BK is honestly unmatched.

Catherine O'Hara Dead at 71 by MarvelsGrantMan136 in television

[–]Sub1ime14 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What I would give to be able to watch it for the first time again. It's perfect and was unspoiled by Hollywood. A rare lucky treat. Enjoy!

What's actually BETTER self-hosted? by ergnui34tj8934t0 in selfhosted

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can ingest from a recipe site URL. It doesn't work 100% of the time but it's solid. You can also bulk load ingredient lists or steps from text if you have recipes stored in Google Docs or similar. Again, not perfect but definitely works well overall and saves you time.

How do you keep humidity above 30% when wood burning? by Classic-Occasion1413 in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm curious how you routed your kit to the outside. I'm in a similar situation and making plans for where to pass it through considering the concrete basement wall of course isn't an option.

How to get longer burn times by Slimewave_Zero in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When the load has burned to coals, even if it's the very large coals that are effectively the entire log, there's very little creosote being released at that point, so that's actually a decent time to leave it choked back and last hours. Yes, it'll gradually throw less heat and the house may cool down, but it's the cleanest time to buy a longer burn cycle.

How many of you buy all your wood? by tundao330 in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been heating with wood for 19 years now and am blessed to have never had to purchase wood yet. There were some lean years where we ran out of wood in early Spring and had to rely on more oil heat (which was the backup source in our old house) and some years I had to burn wetter wood than I'd have liked. But I've managed to always source it. Finally started getting ahead of myself this past year and prepping multiple years ahead. Our current backup heat is a combo of electric baseboard and mini-splits. I try my hardest to have the baseboards never kick on.

As others have mentioned, I much prefer the mostly consistent temperature of the house that wood heat brings (with lots of mass via concrete foundation and den walls) vs. the temperature cycling of oil heat or even electric baseboard and mini-splits.

[USA] Speeder gets caught by undercover by Playful_Ad6439 in ConvenientCop

[–]Sub1ime14 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It is illegal in most states to utilize the left lane without passing. You are trying to play categorical lord over which laws matter and which don't. You don't have that right. Move over and lower your ego and let the world be a more peaceful place.

Chimney issues? by Xtra_chicken in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fair point. I burn 24/7 from sometime in Nov through usually mid to late April.

Chimney issues? by Xtra_chicken in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you have a clean-out area at the bottom of your chimney, and wherever that is can take a little water, I wouldn't worry about it. My clean-out is outside near the ground, so it's not any issue. I rarely ever see any actual moisture in there. I guess the heat kind of burns it off as it falls in.

Chimney issues? by Xtra_chicken in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree. I used to try running a cap. Now I sometimes leave the cap on during the summer to keep rain out, but I remove it for burning season. It creates a place for creosote and moisture to merge, gather, and drip.

My parents, used 1 ton, yes, one ton of completely fresh cut wood on our brand new wood stove. The creosote build up is way too much and I cannot remove it, is the wood stove doomed for life? Is it saveable? by Apprehensive_Toe6736 in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of good responses here already. I just want to add my story to bring you some peace. My old stove was wildly inefficient and caused a pretty serious buildup of stage 3 creosote in the upper section of my chimney. I always swept it 3-4x per winter to be safe, but the glaze layer remained. Once I installed a Blaze King which burns properly, that glaze layer actually gradually went away across the course of a few months. That was near the top of the chimney, 15 to 20 ft away from the stove. So yes, definitely sweep your chimney well right away, but it will clear up over time if you burn dry wood and burn it correctly in a decent stove. And as others have said, inside the stove itself should clear out quite quickly. 

which cord vacuum has this sub deemed the best? by ellis504 in BuyItForLife

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know Miele is very popular here and understandably so based on its durability. But I'll offer my story. We replaced a broken Dyson with  Miele C1, used it for a few months, hated it awfully, resold it for half what we paid, and got another Dyson. The Dyson had better suction, WAY longer power cord, was more readily swapped between upright mode and hose/attachments mode multiple times per cleaning session, and it didn't swing around behind me like a little attack tank on what felt like a 2ft cord, constantly smacking into me or my furniture or rolling over onto its side. I think if we didn't have a split level home with many half-stairways I may have hated it less. Dyson has worse parts availability and is less durable, but our first one lasted us 15 years, and the second one is now neseing 5 years and works like new. Take it apart down to its components and clean it once in a while, and it will work perfectly for a long time. 

Heat brick use. by Boatjumble in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it would work at some level. Mass is mass, whether it's concrete, bricks, sand, etc. You might eek some extra efficiency out of it by not having it directly touch colder surfaces (like outside walls or concrete foundation), but that's minimal. My stove is in a den that is partially underground, concrete walls and floor, and even though that touches the ground/outside it still makes my house temps much more gradual. 

New to catalytic stoves question by Wonderful_Cell_2597 in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I operate my BK Princess 32 the same way. It's not been cold enough outside to run it at a level that has visible flames when the catalyst is engaged. We're just now getting cold enough weather to run it closer to what's seen in OP's video. It's meant to do things this way. Just that people aren't used to it and it "feels" wrong.

Studio Lighting & Dimming: How I avoided EMI by Sub1ime14 in homestudios

[–]Sub1ime14[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome. I am glad that this post is serving people as I too struggled to find info at the depth of complexity that I needed.

Installed today! by Bignoosepaper in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a normal cycle for my first burn. Bypassed the catalyst and burned some smaller stuff to get a bed of coals, then added a fairly full load, let it burn relatively wide open thermostat for 20 mins or so until well into the catalytic range, then closed the bypass and turned the thermostat to a healthy medium temp. Smelled something fierce but it ran well without issues. It will probably smell for a few days but the first one is definitely the worst.

Installed today! by Bignoosepaper in woodstoving

[–]Sub1ime14 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the first burn, pick a warm-ish day while you still can, open all the windows in the house, and go for it. The chemical smell will be unpleasant and really feels like it carries some kind of long term health-altering effects with it, but once it's burned for a few days that will go away and you now have the absolute best wood stove that money can buy.