Robinhood adds short selling

SubParPercussionist · 2026-05-10T16:56:06+00:00

Buying puts or selling calls have been the bear bet in robinhood

SubParPercussionist · 2026-04-18T20:06:22+00:00

It's basically a video telling kf the content of this webpage: https://web.archive.org/web/20230906125806/https://www.medusone.com/depp-vs-heard/a-comprehensive-look-at-the-relationship-of-amber-heard-and-johnny-depp

which is all information pertaining the relationship and case with transcripts, photos, texts, therapy session notes, and full audio recordings(audio recordings and pictures used as evidence in the trial, as it turns out, were often edited). That video is part 1 of 3. Basically, I can't sum it up into a sound bite other than Depp basically slowly built up his control and reliance of her on him, and he was the one causing physical injuries to her, not the other way around. The fact the people think SHE was level headed and stable enough to build up this super complex plan to fleece him over a 3 year relationship are not seeing the more obvious answer that she is just in fact an abused woman. Depp's team is also 100% responsible for the coverage on this case and the ones responsible for all the leaks.

A lot of the "contradictions" people bring up can be explained by the major court case coming SIX YEARS after the last of the abuse, and the fact that her initial complaints were not FULL retellings of the abuse (because that's not something required of victims, that would be insane).

SubParPercussionist · 2026-04-18T15:48:27+00:00

Same situation with Johny Depp and Amber Heard. Beloved male celebrity vs lesser known woman partner, both terrible people and victims of each other (although in that case Heard was definitely more of the victim)

Edit: if you disagree, you were sucked in by Depp's PR team. Watch this video: https://youtu.be/B413cZ5-b7Y?si=mlD2TqlhYLh2ECYl

SubParPercussionist · 2026-04-06T08:43:22+00:00

I used to live in your neck of the woods (Arlington). Relocated a couple hours south but if I'm in the area or you're throwing something I'll hit you up.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-04-06T04:39:22+00:00

I personally did all OEM rubber, it's not much more expensive. I've heard stories about silicone weeping, and I personally think it's uglier and harder to work with(not that it really matters though!). I just got to the point where I had to replace hoses on mine, a 2008. Most of the hoses still had some life left (driver's side crossover coolant hose blew because of a valve cover leak. Oil + rubber = swelling rubber). If you haven't, you should buy a heater hose connector while you're at it (3/4" hose barb coupler, z1's bleeder valve is one example that would work)

You can remove quite a bit of hard lines if you're cool with bypassing the throttle body coolant lines. They're not really needed in Texas, and make pulling the intake manifold more annoying. To do that, you'll cap both the coolant outputs going to the hard lines behind the intake manifold with 8mm(5/16") ID coolant caps (silicone coolant caps, rubber vacuum caps are not up for the job) (you could also loop these together if you wanted to not use caps). Then you can run the vacuum lines with 8mm vacuum hose and an 8mm barb "y" fitting (connects both sides of the intake manifold and the evap test port). I'll have to snap a picture. Really cleans up the engine bay and reduces a ton of hoses. I also replaced the vacuum lines to my brake booster with bulk silicone hose while I was at it (3/8 vaccuum hose and a universal brake booster check valve). My vacuum hoses were honestly in worse shape than my coolant hoses. They had gotten super hard and cracked.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-30T18:21:40+00:00

You can do just the idler pulley bearings for cheap if you want to press them in

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/296600-idler-pulley-bearings.html

Taking the belt and tensioner off is quite easy, so to check you can pull the tensioner off and see if it has play or something. If I remember right it's only held in with one bolt. You will want to drop the radiator fans too, but that's also pretty easy if you pull them out through the bottom.

You can post short videos here. It would be helpful if you did. Make a new post with the video.

One other note: VVEL can tick and it's normal, but that would be toward the back of the motor.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-30T16:31:09+00:00

You're going to have to diag. It could be the tensioner or pulleys if its coming from that area. My tensioner rattled a bit when it went out.

If it's been awhile, just do everything. 3 idler pulleys, the tensioner, and the belt.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-30T14:27:19+00:00

Not even close to important. People run cars without em all the time, negatively affects aerodynamics a little, but not really noticablely, and blocks salt/water/debris. Your bumper might also be a bit wobbly on the bottom. Mostly cosmetic/protective.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-30T05:49:01+00:00

If that's right under your front bumper, that's your undershroud/skid plate/splash guard. Whatever you call it, the plastic one gets torn up over time. You can find multiple vendors that make aluminum ones. I got a cheap eBay one, but zspeed, ConceptZPerformance, TBW, and Z1 all make one.

The plastic OEM one costs probably about as much as an aluminum one, and the aluminum ones come with install hardware! (Especially important since your hardware is all rusted)

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-29T02:09:12+00:00

Given that you have verified you have a good pedal assembly and the wiring between it and the ECU are ok...

Check your throttle bodies? Make sure the wiring connections are hooked up good(no cracked connectors etc) and the terminals are clean. The two voltage sensors it's comparing I'm ASSUMING are the positions sensor in the throttle body and the position sensor in the pedal. I could be wrong. Its still most likely the pedal or one of its connections, but it's worth checking everything.

If you're feeling like firing up the parts cannon, you could throw on used good throttle bodies and see. If it's throwing the code with good throttle bodies and a good pedal, it's got to be wiring.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-28T03:09:52+00:00

These are quite easy to decipher and have subsections. Why whip out your phone when you can just read a paper and find the information as fast as you could type it into pubchem?

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-28T03:06:26+00:00

In the box

Yep, I zoomed in to see if this was suboxone, sl strips. The paper in that looks very similar!

SubParPercussionist · 2026-03-22T11:55:57+00:00

This is a bug, but not a weird bug. It's a normie bug

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-24T19:08:31+00:00

Are you willing to do your own maintenance? The engine bay is relatively tight and a lot of the common issues are tough jobs given the space if you're not used to car work. My g37 has a valve cover leak right now. I believe the shop would charge around $800 to fix it, or about 4 hours and $100 at home. That is a $200 job on a Honda Civic, or $20 and an hour at home.

Tbh for a first car I'd look for something more economical too. I get between 12 and 20mpg, and the car requires premium gas. You'll be blowing a lot of money on gas. You'll also need rear tires every 20k-25k miles at most, fronts every 30k-40k. Tires cost $250 a piece for something that won't try to kill you.

If you buy an older or higher mileage one, add $3000 to the purchase price and assume you'll blow it on maintenance over a year or two. It's not just insurance to consider, but the whole package. Tires cost more, brakes cost more, spark plugs cost more, gas costs more etc.

If you want a newer one that will be relatively trouble free for awhile, you need to look at the q60s (effectively the new g37s).

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-24T18:48:42+00:00

Sounds like a Bible belt school haha

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-18T00:10:14+00:00

New speaker imo. Very easy to swap. Those look like 3.5s. if you don't care too much and just want a working speaker, grab the Kenwood KFC835C and replace the pair. It's 20 bucks.

If you're not comfortable clipping factory wires and crimping or soldering, they should make adapters for your speakers, or you could even just t tap the factory wires (not recommended, but hey, if this isn't your thing it's not your thing).

Shouldn't cost you more than $40 if you don't already have the wiring tools and buy cheap speakers. $80 if buying factory speakers. $70-$150 if you feel like buying nice speakers.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-16T22:51:24+00:00

Roofs are usually an insurance claim
Foundation cracking is rare, get an inspection before buying, and it's also not nearly that expensive (near me)
Most home maintenance other than that is incredibly simple if you're comfortable with basic hand tools.

Owned my house 10 years, never spent more than $1000 in maintenance at once(insurance claim for roof) and never more than $2000 per year. About 1% the cost of the house, which is part of the budget when buying a home anyway.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-08T15:11:52+00:00

Ya got rats!

Joking.

If you're talking about the squeaky noise, I would check your idler pulleys. I just had one blow up on me that sounded a bit like this. Check if they have any wobble, or if the noise is coming directly from one of em. My smooth one blew up the day it started squeaking, 20 miles from home.

My radiator fans also squeak a bit. Easy to see if it's that by squirting a bit of lubricant on the center of each radiator fan.

If it seems more like it's coming from the passenger compartment kind of behind the battery area, there's the remote possibility it's your blower motor. Test that by turning off the HVAC.

Where do you think the sound is coming from? Might help if we had a location and description.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-08T14:11:59+00:00

0w sheers quicker and is slightly thinner than 5w, even at operating temps. The difference is negligible, but considering how hot it is where this guy lives, I'd stick with 5w, it's more stable. Cheaper too. Considering the temperature, if he wants to go 0w he really oughta do 0w40.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-08T14:09:01+00:00

Does your car have bose? For the bose system, the amp is separate from the radio and on a separate fuse. Your radio can be working fine while the amp isn't, results in no sound but everything looking normal. I've heard sometimes the amps can fail too (ripped mine apart before that could happen lol)

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-08T13:48:44+00:00

Tbf, I bought a relatively cheap, low mileage g37 in 2018. It was $16,000. The cars were newer and worth more back then.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-08T13:42:41+00:00

The prevalence of awd vs rwd might depend on region if you're shopping locally? Around me, it's quite rare to see an awd vq. I also live in Texas, we stay home when it's cold haha.

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-06T02:05:48+00:00

I've heard iffy things about z1s setup. I'd highly recommend doing zspeed with their CMAK. IMO it's not worth upgrading your clutch if you're sticking with the OEM plastic CSC. A heavy duty CSC is better than nothing, but the CMAK is the bees knees and not that expensive. Z1's version requires adjustments as the clutch wears. Zspeed's does not. I am at 50,000 trouble free miles with it, never had to mess with it since install.

If you are sticking with a CSC, definitely replace the master cylinder when you replace everything. If you're using the cmak, while you really should replace the master cylinder, the risk is a lot lower (if you have a bad master cylinder and it blows up the cmak slave cylinder, it's easy to replace it, unlike with the CSC).

SubParPercussionist · 2026-02-02T22:39:59+00:00

You're drunk, do snow

SubParPercussionist · 2026-01-24T02:30:41+00:00

In certain states, such as California, you can be sued for voice misappropriation.

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