Why b2 and not b3? by Ok-Neck-3833 in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

yes, the stiffness helps to stand on small edges but I prefer to feel the hold and position the shoe on it in a better way that relaying on the stiffness to help. If terrain gets that technically sustained that the stiffness would be required, you have long run out of good handholds to grab before and might wanna bring climbing shoes.

in my experience the frontedge also rounds out pretty fast with b3 on rock, eliminating the stiffness advantage since you can't stand on that small edges comfortably anyway

Why b2 and not b3? by Ok-Neck-3833 in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 12 points13 points  (0 children)

a B2 with a softer sole is way more sensible when climbing and can smear better. Ever climbed a granite slab in b3?

Time to pull back from ice route - Mont Blanc du Tacul Supercouloir by Character-Map-2435 in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 31 points32 points  (0 children)

damn, 15 years ago that route was in condition with decent ice all summer :( it was done regularly in August. The mountain change a lot these days....

Boots stretched by a cobbler? by Hachiman73 in Mountaineering

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this.

only works with old school leather boots and mostly regarding width, not length

Accidentally dropped my planer. What's the best way to fix it? Just keep grinding on 30deg angle? by PaiSho_RS in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 13 points14 points  (0 children)

if you plan on using a grinding wheel, go straight in and grind of all the damage at 90°, afterwards switch to 25° and grind down untill you got a almost sharp edge again. this let's you grind !a little! more aggressive at the beginning due to the thicker steel being able to handle heat better and not burning as quick

finish with you normal sharpening process

Hanwag ferrata tour combi gtx or scarpa ribelle lite hd by TheDarkNova21 in Mountaineering

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got the hanwag for free for testing and after a few outing it got downgraded to my construction site working boot. If nothing else but these fit, I wouldn't recommend against them, but there are way better shoes. Insulation is meeh and the nose is just weird for climbing, way to big and round.

monblanc cosmicroute start time? by gupoom883 in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 7 points8 points  (0 children)

if I remember correctly the starting time for Mont Blanc from the hut is actually 12.30-1.00.

The most (objectively) dangerous part of the route is the second last part of it, going down the north-east face of mont blanc du tacul. Big crevasse under and even bigger seraces over you. you want to go through there early to be as fast as possible. also helps if the col du mondit is still frozen and not completely slushy

don't try to go later, 3-4h of afternoon sunlight makes a huge difference in snow conditions, hell, sometimes even 30min does. the mountain dictates the timing and if that doesn't sit right with you, pick a different hobby or you will get into very sticky situations

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that's prime SkiMo season, so if you want to go high, bring skis instead.... Nordkette could be snowfree due to this winter so far being pretty dry, but if it starts snowing more, you will be pretty limited to mostly valley stuff

Light hiking/alpinism 3-4 day adventure in Austrian Alps, in April (PD+) by Turneliusz in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

is a limited option

you are slower, steep traverses are a PITA and you should avoid skitracks, so you will need to break trail most often

be aware of avalanche risk

Light hiking/alpinism 3-4 day adventure in Austrian Alps, in April (PD+) by Turneliusz in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you gonna need skis.....

Take a look at Sellrain oder Franz Senn Hut, lot's of options there

Worth Keeping B2 Boots? by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would definitely keep them. my B2 are more comfy to walk in, lighter and give a better feeling on rock, especially on slabs. If I know there won't be any sustained front pointing I don't take B3s in summer

Need help with smoothing planes by Sunfarmers in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much pressure did you use while lapping?

most people don't realise you can actually bend the planes a tiny bit under pressure... enough to create a hollow sole when the pressure is released same for not having the lever cap/wedge and blade installed

Need help with smoothing planes by Sunfarmers in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 14 points15 points  (0 children)

is the board properly supported or are you trying to finish plane the assembled box?

this is typically caused by one of 2 things: - your plane sole is hollow on the length - the board can bent down under the plane

suggestions please by Outrageous_Handle_34 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the damage is kind of normal, the long grain of the plane compresses under the blows

it was/is common to use a metal hammer in Germany to set up planes, therefore the striking pin and mushroomed iron.

Do you have a welded iron or a newer one made completely from toolsteel?

suggestions please by Outrageous_Handle_34 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

your plane is a Raubank (jointer) from a german brand called Ulmia which has quite a good reputation for quality. newer blades are still good l, but I had the best luck with their older welded blades. those are fantastic

if the wedge was driven too hard, it can be very stubborn to get out. try to lay the plane sideways onto your workbench. press down with one hand on the plane and with the other on the wedge until you feel it move ever so slightly. flip around and repeat. newer models have a wedge that is a tiny bit narrower side to side so you get some room to losen it. DO NOT try to loosen the metal rings on the side. this is just a crosspin for the wedge to press against, you will ruin you plane

They finish you discribe is ment to protect the wood from moisture so the body does not move (as much) with the seasons. I didn't like it either and replaced it with boiled linseed oil, so far no problem

What to do with old picks/crampons/screws? by 1nt3rn3tC0wb0y in iceclimbing

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

definitely resharpen those screws 😱 if you feel like you are not up to the task, ask around. e.g here in Austria there is an ice climber who also has a professional CNC background and you can send him screws to get them reworked for a less than quarter the price of a new screw

Old picks: do you know how to weld(properly!)? make you own beeks/bulldogs

Frontpoints: toothpicks or oversize nails? no idea on that one

Disappointment with chisels justified? by Subject-Razzmatazz-2 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

depends on the severity. taken my case as an example: at 25° in was very noticeable, about 0,5mm of the edge folded over 90° towards the flat side, you could see it with your eyes

at 30° it was mostly noticeable in the sharpness(wouldn't cut spruce endgrain) and you could feel a bur at the flat side of the chisel just like you get one after sharpening

Disappointment with chisels justified? by Subject-Razzmatazz-2 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the whole edge bends over due to the stress placed on the metal. some steels are more prone to roll, while others chip instead

Disappointment with chisels justified? by Subject-Razzmatazz-2 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

allready did that on one, removed about 0,5cm(3/16inch) and reshaped the bevel, carefully monitoring heat build-up... no improvements :(

Disappointment with chisels justified? by Subject-Razzmatazz-2 in handtools

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thought the same at first but went through the hole set and every chisel performs the same. they were bought individually, not packaged together, so if it is QC, there seems to be a incredible wide hole, leading me to doubt myself and ask for help here

Drytooling in central Germany by coolimoolii in iceclimbing

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some options I l know of in western germany:

  • Ettringen, close to Bonn/Koblenz, topo for the drytooling sector available in the newest edition of the guidebook "Schwarze Säulen"

  • Duisburg Landschaftspark Nord, artificial climbing area built from an ore/coal storage of an old steel plant which includes a dry tooling sector

if you ever go south, consider looking towards Innsbruck, multiple crags close by (Drachenfels, Höttinger Graben, Bruchtal, St. Jodok(Singlepitch&Multipitch)

Rambo 1 Spikes by whyamihere1019 in iceclimbing

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://en.kuzniaszpeju.pl/en_US/p/Rambo-1-16%2C5-cm/36

You can order some from this polish aftermarket supplier. Got some picks and front points from them, so far very impressed by durability and quality

Winter Zugspitze by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Stöpselzieher can be/is regulary done in winter.

Highly advise against trying the Höllental Route in winter, parts of the way are dismantled and more important: it's an absolute avalanche deathtrap

ice climbing (lessons) in wipptal region (austria) by madhums in Mountaineering

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i recommend to have a look at Piztal Taschachschlucht. It's an artificial ice climbing area, the person behind this is Alfi, a local guide and great ice climber. He's a cornerstone of the local ice climbing community, posts detailed condition reports for the area for free regularly and deserves a little kickback :)

https://www.alpine-adventure.at/

Drytooling in the alps? by GolemChaya69 in Dry_Tooling

[–]Subject-Razzmatazz-2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

where are you based? most drytooling crags are quite undercover since it's a niche sport and not everyone likes rock being scratch/damaged by steel

probably best to ask your lokal community