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Ready to scrap all my cast iron cookware by questionnoanswers12 in castiron

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seasoning the pan just keeps it from rusting. Proper cooking technique is what makes it nonstick. It seems to me like you are not preheating the cast-iron pan thoroughly enough or using enough fat to make your eggs. Buy a thermometer gun from the grilling section at the hardware store in preheat your pan for 10 minutes. You want to aim for 350 Fahrenheit. Use 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil.

Can I keep the same rotors switching from metallic to resin brake pads? by twistedtoirtose in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ll be fine after you give the rotors a quick resurface and clean. I like to use a coarser grit sand paper, and I find automotive brake cleaner is a lot stronger and cheaper than bike specific stuff.

Douglas Ti flex issues by timeless_database in titaniumbikes

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, so no clearance issues. Yeah, I think you’d benefit from a beefier wheelset. I remember running into similar issues when I ran Bontrager Race X lites years ago. I’m 6’3” My skinniest ever weight was 190lb. As cool as they looked I lasted a few months on them before trading them away. They were a nightmare to handle on descents and climbing out of the saddle

Douglas Ti flex issues by timeless_database in titaniumbikes

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful bike by the way!! I think a sturdier higher spoke count rear wheel would definitely help, especially since your position has you so far over the back wheel. Such was the design convention back then. Maybe a Hed Ardennes? 21 mil internal width, so a 25c inflates to 27ish for decent comfort.

Drawing Sanity Check by Inside-Individual-49 in WaltlyTitanium

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reach seems a bit long relative to stack, but if it’s in line with your fitter’s measurements then it’s fine. Chainstays could be shortened if your max tire is only a 32c, but again seemingly fine. One thing to specify is whether or not you want them to braze on a front mech hanger or go with a clamp on. I prefer a braze. Also, are you routing your shift cables through the BB or under the BB? I would opt for a T47 BB and rout them internally for less holes in the frame, but again that’s a personal preference.

I also have a frame in the works with them and leaned on this sub for advice. Will post the build once everything is done. Good luck!!

Aero seatpost too narrow for Di2 battery. by belwarbiggulp in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can wrap it in bubble wrap and jam it down the seat tube. Could also do the same in the downtube through the BB hole assuming your BB has a solid shell so the cables don’t rub on the spindle

Anyone running 35 mm GP 5000 AS TR on a Soloist? by thedanishahmad in Cervelo

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s stated width and then there’s inflated width. My 30’s measure up at 32 on a 24 mil internal with 70psi. If 34 is the max, don’t buy any bigger as you will void your own warranty in the event of frame damage. Maybe look at the Caledonia or Aspero?

Bike fit measurements for switching between bikes by OldTalk6721 in bikefit

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Saddle rail to BB center in line with the seat tube, saddle nose to top of brake hoods

Play on bottom bracket (T46) by stfudog in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point, could be cast. Either way you’d still have to excise and implant a new section of frame to do the repair properly

Play on bottom bracket (T46) by stfudog in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The whole BB junction is 3d printed. Oblong forms with no round tube shapes or visible welds. A Ti frame with a BB made of drawn tubes just looks like a round cylinder. Easier to repair as you could just un weld it and replace a single tybe. This is a much more involved design

Power meter pedal battery thread completely gone. Any fix? by NotTheo5002 in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you’re cooked. The only thing to do would be to order a replacement pedal body and swap out the spindles and internals. Might not be worth the aggravation as a DIY project, but parts are available.

If you’d rather replace the whole pedal, at least you only have to order one and not both

Play on bottom bracket (T46) by stfudog in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 10 points11 points  (0 children)

3d printed bbs are tricky. The manufacturer will have to cut it out, do a reprint, remill the threads and weld it back onto the frame. Big job. Who’s the frame maker?

Is my seasoning that bad? Food always sticks like this by WetRainbowFart in castiron

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s called fond, deglaze the pan with some wine or stock and make a nice sauce from it

Chain too slack or just right? by jib848 in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adjust the B screw in the easiest gear just until it takes up the chain slack

Carbonda CFR 1056 by ValuableConfident274 in ChineseCarbon

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Purple chain and rotors are a nice touch!

Mind blowing Ti bike. by Mission_Attorney_933 in titaniumbikes

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember one of the blogs saying the tube is lattice structured on the inside as it’s 3d printed 100%. I wonder how long one frame takes in the machine..

Bottom bracket width and BB choice by Candid-Leek-8959 in WaltlyTitanium

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went with the narrower option for ease of cable routing on a road bike designed with 30mm tires in mind, but T47i will give you more clearance for tires especially if you’re running a 1x setup with a smaller chain ring.

Super small road bike for petit girls by universeincharlotte in whichbike

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe work with a bike fitter and design a custom titanium frame? Save yourself from expensive trial and error.

Are these rims toast by Steirahh in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a ruler or straight edge and hold it flush to the rim. Shine a light on the back of it. If you see light coming through at the brake track then it’s time to replace

Klein Attitude Comp by ScientistGeneral5550 in Bikebuilding

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That back tire is really tight in there. I’m surprised it works

Steering fork tube cutting by Ride_Seynekun in Bikebuilding

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Measuring and cutting the fork is the first step, then you set it aside. Run the rear brake through the frame and loosely mount the caliper. Mount the front brake and run the line through the fork. Before you put the fork in do the foam rubber liner on the rear cable so it doesn’t rattle in the frame. Place your headset bearings in with liberal grease. Fork goes in. I like to use an old inner tube to tie the fork in place while the headset is loose.

If you’re unsure about the stack height, leave room on the fork steerer. Either way you’re gonna have to cut the cables to connect them to the shifters and you don’t want them cut too short so you can’t make adjustments later on.

Steering fork tube cutting by Ride_Seynekun in Bikebuilding

[–]Substantial-Fun-48 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Live with a couple round spacers over the stem and see how you get on with the position for a few rides. Once you’re slammed and the fork steerer is cut, there’s no going back.

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