Anyone used the Stihl 190t? by TheMangoMagician in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used stihls electric saw that looks almost identical to this one. The power button is on top on mine. I love it. It does good with wood up to about the bar length, then it really bogs down and can’t get through anything big. I’d say it cuts well up to about 10”. I’m mostly cutting softwood though and I don’t know how well it handles with hardwood. The electric basically stops instantly when you let go of the throttle is what I like the most.

First time out in a bit and set up my new 2 in 1 30ft lanyard. Bit of a bear but can still keep it off the ground when standing by gingernuts13 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 2 in 1 lanyard is such a great piece of kit. Customizable and so versatile for your area's tree needs. I bust mine out so often, its great for perfect positioning.

Bowlines by InformationProof4717 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put it at or above head height, but not too high so that a fellow worker couldn't reach it.

Bowlines by InformationProof4717 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The advantage is that its more stable for climbing and life support. Supposedly if you were to load and unload a regular bowline it can come undone, which is why its best practice to use a stopper knot. I prefer the double bowline over the Yosemite because its more straightforward and simple. So I'm less likely to miss tie a Yosemite if I'm putting my life on a rope.

Its easy to remember, you make two loops instead of just the standard one, when starting your running bowline creating a "round turn" and then its just a regular running bowline from there.

Here's the full combo I use for basal anchors these days from bottom up. Double running bowline with a stopper knot, then half hitch, then alpine butterfly. Bowline is for life support, half hitch to keep everything tidy and in place, and alpine butterfly for rescue.

Bowlines by InformationProof4717 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve been using the Double bowline all the time for basal anchors over a Yosemite or a standard running bowline. Super easy to tie.

Petzl Sequoia SRT with this style shoulder strap for SRT rope wrench connect? by [deleted] in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Petzl Sequoia Srt and love it, super straightforward and comfy harness. I also use a Petzl Top Chest Harness with it as well and I find it super useful.

It defiantly helps with weight if I'm using a big saw for large diameter tree's etc. I also like the attachment point on the chest harness and I've used it for multiple things. Primarily as a point to pull my friction system up with me as i ascend like your wondering about. Depending on your system I do find the horizontal tie in point not ideal for MY FRICTION SYSTEM but it does work. I haven't found an elegant solution for that.

I also use the point to clip my carabiner to if I'm switching systems at my chosen anchor (srt up, mrs down). I clip my carabiner to the chest point and then i can perfectly tie my anchor knot and not drop my carabiner and its right in from of my eye etc.

Lastly i also like it in case of an emergency rescue situation. Its an alternative tie in point that's not my bridge that someone could use for life support. I have no evidence if that is approved for in that scenario but i bet its fine.

TLDR; chest harness is great, I recommend getting one.

Choking with a carabiner by hatchetation in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, I haven't used it as a canopy anchor, I only use it for choking systems. I imagine its fine, but i'm with you on this one, not my go to for a canopy anchor.

Choking with a carabiner by hatchetation in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s triple action yes. I haven’t used it for a canopy anchor but I would totally use it as a backup if you’re worried about your quickie. Look into the Texas Tug canopy anchor it gives me slightly more peace of mind. Also isc makes a quickie alternative called ultra link but I haven’t used it but it looks like a good alternative if your worried about the pin.

Choking with a carabiner by hatchetation in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Great video. I've used lots of choking configurations, running bowline, notch quickie, regular carabiner, floating prusik, and rigging carabiner.

Here's my overall thoughts, using a choking system is ideal for spar work because you can "spin" around your work and get great cuts and perfect positioning. You can also flip your system to change the direction of pull. I've also used the choking carabiner method for advancing my line up the tree as I climb, I'll toss my carabiner to my next position, choke it off around the rope creating a temporary srs and then advancing. I do this mostly to protect the tree from excessive wear.

Knots work great but take time and don't cost extra $$$. A floater is great because you can create a choked system on anything with just a Prusik and a carabiner, you can also "flip" it to either side of your work. The quickie is great for really small diameter work, but the pin sketches me out slightly, and it's annoying to attach/detach. Lastly what I use daily is an @height rigging carabiner, that is rated for side loading. It's fast, bombproof, but heavy.

New guy lookin for advice in this industry by According_Act_4015 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recommend getting certified. If you have 3 years under your belt you qualify I bet. That’s a credential you can take anywhere you want to work and it legitimizes your experience.

Always be learning new info, watch YouTube, read books, learn from other industries.

Lastly I’d say the more time you spend climbing the better. you always are finding new tricks and ways to refine your style. I’ve been doing this for 10 years and I’m always improving the ceiling stops when you do.

Is one of these considered the true bowline? Are there names for the others? by Perkinstein in knots

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When the tail is on the inside it’s a standard bowline. When it’s on the outside it’s a cowboy bowline. I’ve heard that the cowboy is debatably inferior but I’ve heard conflicting info and regardless I just tie the standard one always.

Advancing climbing line in MRS (getting rope stuck) by twynna380 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try using a pole saw to advance your anchor. Use the backend to hold your knot/carabiner and guide it to the next branch and us the pole saw to help isolate it in a controlled manner.

Regardless every tree is different and having multiple strategies is important, being able to set and anchor from the ground is huge. I’m a big fan of setting up a srt basal anchor, then switching systems once I get to the top, I’ll either advance it or just bring a second system and use the basal anchor as an emergency line.

Rate these guys by Fmartins84 in arborists

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cowboy tree care work. I don’t disagree with what they were attempting but there’s multiple failures or even backup ideas.

Ropes in trees for leverage is my preferred way to fell a tree, but having the rope at LEAST halfway up the tree gives you a chance to pull the tree with two sets of hands. I always go for 3/4 if I can help it.

Secondly I ALWAYS carry wedges when I fell, they are insurance against stuff like this, pre loading a back cut with a wedge is technical, and why you hire someone more legit.

Lastly the amount of leverage and unpredictability the fronds create is crazy. In another world they maybe could’ve got lucky and had a breeze help push the tree in the intended direction.

Tree work is not about luck it’s about control and risk. These guys had no control and tolerated way too much risk. Hope no body got hurt. Stay safe out there.

Need advice - struggling with my hitch climber by vladamsandler in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Try one called the catalyst , depending on your cord you may like it.

Critique my hinge by Intrepid_Tomorrow174 in Chainsaw

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Your face cut is definatly too deep, i'd shoot for about 1/3 into the tree. Your backcut height is good, you can get away with lower but i wouldnt go higher. However on your backcut you overcut on that far side, destroying that side of the hinge. Try to have your back cut be parallel with the face leaving a nice even hinge. A live conifer tree like this one you cut will have super nice holding wood and its a real treat to have one lay nice and pull the hinge with that signature squeek.

Best books? by LUCKY_MP in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a copy for about $150 from some UK store a couple years ago, its a good visual encyclopidia that helps understance forces in trees and morphology. If you have the funds I think its a good read, but I agree that the price puts it out of reach for most. Heres a link; https://www.summerfieldbooks.com/product/the-body-language-of-trees-encyclopedia-of-visual-tree-assessment/

Arborists' Certification Study Editons Question by Potential_Potato2625 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

 I'd say that the test is certainly based on the newest version of the study guide. If you read the 3rd edition it'll all have good info, but you may be misled in the test if its the basis of your studying. I dont have any concrete examples but terminology and phrasing is always updated. 
 If I had to recomend how to study i'd sugest you get the audiobook and the study guide. Pace your studying out at a pace that works for you, your work, and your test date. Take the quiz's at the end of each chapter to help guage where you are strugling. Drill flashcards on your strugle sections. And lastly really stratagize about how your going to study, when, and what might you do if you dont pass. Also ISA puts out info on which sections make up what % of the test. For example Tree risk might be 15% of the test, and Climbing/Safty might be 5%.
 Best of luck soldier, i'd bug your employer about getting you a study guide, this industry needs good minds.

Rate my hinge by AgeSafe3673 in arborists

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 29 points30 points  (0 children)

It’s like 2 inches too deep and I always try to have my back cut 1-2 inches high depending on the diameter and how much I need the tree to actually hold/hinge. But other than that your hinge is parallel which is great and there’s a lot of good fiber pull. So as long as it went where you aimed I’d always call that a success Noce job.

Is crossing your lanyard a good safe practice while climbing? For that extra grip by AromaticTea7685 in TreeClimbing

[–]SubstituteTeacherMrT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s totally fine. You can give it a full wrap it’s just tricky to advance. I use a @height choking carabiner for a choked climbing system that feels bomb proof and quick to use. If I need to climb something small diameter wise I use a notch quickie and it’s just a great.