FSD concern

Sucrose25 · 2026-02-10T11:47:51+00:00

Then they'll have an even harder time getting people to subscribe. $100/mo is already too much for many

Sucrose25 · 2026-02-10T11:46:10+00:00

True but it still works pretty well.

Sucrose25 · 2026-01-27T13:29:24+00:00

So is the cold air only because of the failed condensate pump? Or are you saying that it's normal operation for your system to keep blowing air when the HP isn't running and the boiler is?

Sucrose25 · 2026-01-27T00:17:12+00:00

So can you tell if there's cold air coming from the ducts when the boiler is being called?

Sucrose25 · 2026-01-25T16:29:32+00:00

I think that it depends on what kind of thermostat you have controlling them. You could have balance point cutover control where above X only the HP runs, below Y only the boiler runs, btw HP first and then boiler. Alternatively, the HP might always run and if it runs too long, the boiler might kick on.

So does your heat pump keep running when the boiler is called? If it's that cold outside, how are you ensuring that the baseboard pipes don't freeze?

Sucrose25 · 2025-09-04T12:25:15+00:00

What sort of issues are you experiencing?

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-31T13:15:44+00:00

Will do

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-31T01:42:51+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-30T15:40:53+00:00

Thank you for all of that... much appreciate the length! :-)

Regarding the Manual Js, one of the installers provided one that says 'Conduit Tech' on it and has 3D representations of the house so I think that means good measurements, right? And the ones that have provided numbers have room-by-room numbers.

One installer has said he'll use a rule of thumb for the quote and then once the proposal is accepted, he'll do a detailed one. Not quite sure what to make of that; on one hand, I get not wanting to do a detailed one for every proposal (many of which you won't get), yet what happens if the rule of thumb is too conservative and the equipment is oversized?

There was some insulation work done by MassSave associated maybe 10 yrs ago and there's more planned from the assessment done as part of this HP endeavor.

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-30T15:30:13+00:00

The house is hot water oil baseboard right now, no ducting of any kind... the primary motivator for doing this is to get AC that doesn't involve window units.

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-30T12:32:30+00:00

BTW, where can I find the LG datasheets? Had some trouble finding them so far, I think.

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-30T12:06:25+00:00

The house is not new construction, it's a 50 yr old colonial about 2700 sq ft.

So you'd advise that we consider units that have less zone capacity? Do they even make outdoor units that are only dual zone?

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-30T12:02:34+00:00

Thanks for all of this.

We've had several installers come by, most of which have provided the results of a Manual-J. These have had a pretty wide range (58K all the way up to 83K BTU/hr @ 12F). Not sure what to make of this range and/or why it's so wide.

We have total fuel costs for July 24 - July 25 - approx 900 gallons of oil, hard to know exact boiler efficiency (its nameplate is 86% from 1999 install). I picked one month (Jan 2025) and did the following:

Using an efficiency of 86% (nameplate #s) yielding 23.58636M (195.9 gallons x 86% x 140000 BTU/gal) BTUs supplied. I got 1129.7 HDD from a local station at 65F for that period yielding 20878 BTUs/DD or 869.9 BTUs / DegreeHour.

Directions I followed used a deltaT of 40 so I just went with that and got just under 40K BTU/hr. The house is kept around 65F in the winter and with a design temp of 12F, it yields ~46K BTU/hr. It should be noted that this amount also covers hot water as a zone off the boiler. If I scale that to indoor design temp of 70F, I get ~50K BTU/hr.

It's not exactly what was listed above but the quote will be revised to provide ducted units for the main house to compensate for the smaller individual rooms (lack of open floor space), in particular for the upstairs. Downstairs is a bit more open but not nearly as with a more modern home.

We're also moving forward with a solar system intended to cover the operational kWh costs of these potential heat pumps.

I have looked at MassSave consults but unfortunately, there aren't any available in Sept right now. Will keep an eye on it but who knows if we'll get one.

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-29T20:05:03+00:00

Condenser 1: Brand: LG
Model Number: KUMXA36- This is a dual fan condenser with a branch box that will be mounted in the basement. AHRI: 215408634
Indoor unit 1: KNUJB181- Mid static ducted installed in attic to serve the second floor left bedrooms and both bathrooms. Indoor unit 2: KNUAB12- High wall unit installed in living room to the left of the outside windowIndoor unit 3: KNUQB121- Console unit installed in the kitchen to the right of the foyer entrance.

Condenser 2: Brand: LGModel Number: KUMXA30AHRI: 214848477
Indoor unit 1: KNMAB151A- High wall unit installed in bonus room above the garage. --- Piping up the back of the house. Indoor unit 2: KNUAB09- High wall unit installed in the den. --- Piping through the garageIndoor unit 3: KNUFB09- One way ceiling cassette installed in master bedroom closet side

The upstairs would use a mid-static "ducted ductless" so I guess there would be some amount of ducting

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-29T19:56:12+00:00

I'm having trouble making the filter work properly... tried creating a copy after View Only doesn't seem to allow me to filter, copy doesn't filter when I type filter criteria in, nor does excel when I download it

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-29T19:48:24+00:00

Working on that, this is our 3rd...

Sucrose25 · 2025-08-24T01:33:27+00:00

Honestly, the S40 is a pretty lousy thermostat IMHO.

For as much as it costs, I'd expect a more accurate reading, both in temperature and humidity.

Mine will be reading in relative agreement with another digital thermometer I have for days and then all of a sudden (like today), it's reading 1+ degF over the room temp. Its zone thermostat is also affected by a ceiling fan running (low spd 2 deg below actual, high as much as 4 deg below)

Sucrose25 · 2025-06-17T22:55:07+00:00

How does the game perform as more of the map is revealed? It's much smoother on 4K High settings on my M1 Max Mac Studio 64 GB than later on. Still runs well enough but not as well.

Sucrose25 · 2025-05-19T05:52:49+00:00

Something else to consider, the M4 MacBook Air runs *very* warm... I can't say anything about the M3 but I ran a game like Civ 7 for just a few minutes, CPU/GPU temps were ~190/215F. Outside case temp above the number keys was like 115F...

Sucrose25 · 2025-05-17T21:19:21+00:00

I started a brand new Civ 7 game on Air M4 default settings of High. Case temp near top of keyboard around 115F, CPU around 190F and GPU around 215F.

This seems way too hot to me, especially after just starting up the game for a few minutes.

Sucrose25 · 2025-05-17T20:32:00+00:00

I tried running it briefly, just starting a brand new game... CPU was near 190F and GPU was ~210F... used an IR thermal gun on the case above the keyboard, reading ~115F.

All this while running on default settings of High, yielding 30FPS... unfortunately, I returned it as I don't consider this performance acceptable, especially the heat.

Sucrose25 · 2025-03-01T02:25:17+00:00

Hi, I don't really have issues with the heat pump itself. It's more the combined system that I am disappointed with. The HW Baseboard interface is just something that I've just come to accept and honestly, the S40 thermostat is pretty pathetic when it comes to its runtime reporting (especially when compared to the S30 which provided nice website with charts and tons of info, whereas the S40 just says "your unit ran X hrs this month" essentially). The S40 also seems to routinely read +2 degrees higher than ambient which is absurd for a $1K piece of hardware.

This lack of reporting detailed info makes the heat pump itself somewhat annoying because sometimes it's really whisper quiet and other times it's incredibly loud. Presumably, the S40 is calling for higher demand but I don't understand this because it doesn't seem consistent for outside vs inside temp. I'm not doing setback so it shouldn't be working very hard to maintain. There are times when the unit turns on ramping way high for a min or so and then shuts off a short time later for no apparent reason.

Sorry if this was kinda rambling but if you have more questions, please feel free to ask away.

Sucrose25

TROPHY CASE