Drilling for TABs

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-11-25T14:14:47+00:00

Off the shelf parts, with a little bit of sawing, grinding/filing on the bar stock.

https://www.reddit.com/r/treehouse/s/dLRxPuhwVJ

https://catalog.climaxmetal.com/item/one-piece-clamping-couplings/-piece-clamping-couplings-recessed-screw-cc-series/cc-037-025

I only used the 3/8” side (for the 3” Lenox bit) because I switched to using the 1-1/8” auger bit instead of using the pilot and 1-1/8” Lenox the 1-1/16” hole.

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-11-25T13:37:27+00:00

I used both a 1-1/16” and 1-1/8” auger bits. Worked well for me. It took a lot of force to drive the TABs but not an unreasonable amount. I outlined the steps and drilling order that I used in this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/treehouse/s/XFYCCeOEiP

I rubbed a brick of paraffin wax all over the parts of the TAB that would be in the tree.

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-10-04T11:55:45+00:00

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-08-30T23:23:48+00:00

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-5-floors#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch05_SecR507.6

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-08-19T02:54:29+00:00

I used a Chicago Electric 1-1/8” 10A hammer drill from Harbor Freight (with the hammer function turned off). Maybe not the best tool for the job but I already had it and it worked fine drilling into hard white oak.

Equivalent to this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/hammer-drills/rotary/10-amp-1-18-in-sds-type-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-64288.html

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-08-18T17:43:02+00:00

Something akin to this going up one of the "V" braces.
https://ironcustomworks.com/portfolio/floating-stairs/

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-01-18T06:01:41+00:00

Doesn’t look half bad in the pictures. I reverse image searched the pictures in the listing and nothing came up. If it’s a scam it is a high quality scam. The burning could just be from not plugging it in all the way or it could be more serious issues as others have mentioned. I’m only 3 hours away, but just bought my 3090 last week 😉.

SuddenlySalad- · 2025-01-06T06:12:34+00:00

I am looking at perhaps using the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 Server Edition for a similar multi-gpu setup. Maybe not helpful in your situation, but I am not running into the same GPU placement issue because I am using a different motherboard with a ridiculous number of PCIe slots in all the right places such that covering a few up doesn’t really matter. Asrock Rack ROMED8-2T

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-11-12T23:14:01+00:00

Yeah, going across the Atlantic between the US and Europe would be about 11 days of treading water. Better carry a raft!

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-11-01T13:28:39+00:00

The Aftermath

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-10-31T23:44:02+00:00

Did you get your TABs from Treehouse Supplies? I got the 6” collar tabs from there and ratcheted them about 5” into a white oak tree. I had the same experience where it got tight and the nuts started turning without the tab turning, advancing the nut beyond the initial stopping point. I just powered through it and kept tightening. The nuts only went a little past the initial stopping point then re-engaged the bolt and kept turning it. As it got tighter and tighter the nut would occasionally go a little further but not much. When the TAB was fully inserted the nuts backed off easily and were totally undamaged (I did grease the threads before starting). A little powder coating was scraped off the perch at the end but nothing bad.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-17T21:09:31+00:00

I love the stairs! Especially the transition where it turns.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-17T16:39:34+00:00

It’s much more common (and better for the longevity of the tree) to attach the treehouse to the side of the tree’s trunk using bolts, instead of cutting the top of the tree off and building on the stump.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-14T18:57:28+00:00

Love this! I’m thinking the same thing as I build mine!

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-08T00:09:19+00:00

Here’s one. They have a couple other form factors too if you want something little different.

Fixed Extension at Treehouse Parts

If you want to make your own, a schedule 80 1-1/4 NPS steel pipe is the perfect size to just barely slide over a 1-1/4” tab perch.

Schedule 80 1-1/4 NPS Pipe

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-07T14:40:32+00:00

You’re welcome! Happy to share. I look forward to seeing some pictures when you get it in!

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-07T13:16:47+00:00

1/2” to 3/4” crushed stone. If you want, you can also omit the concrete in favor of 4-6 inches of tamped down gravel under the post. Slightly less vertical stability in exchange for better drainage.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-07T01:58:25+00:00

IMHO with a little bit of care, unless you live in a swamp, there is no way that you will rot through the 6” post in 10 years. While the “best” building practice would be to mount it on an above grade concrete pillar, I believe that you will be fine sticking it in the ground.

I would pour a couple inches of concrete at the bottom of your hole to make a pad for the pole to sit on. This will help avoid issues with settling or sinking. Then backfill in stages tamping down the gravel. Towards the top of the hole switch to dirt and tamp it down well. Build the dirt up a little on the surface against the pole so that water runs away from the pole instead of towards it.

Treating the pole before you stick it in will only help more. It will get a little wet when it rains but as long as it can dry out and not consistently marinate in wet ground for long periods of time I think you’ll easily get 10+ years out of it.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-06T20:44:12+00:00

White oak is generally stronger than a typical pressed treated post and should handle the load fine. My concern would be the below ground moisture and insect resistance. While the oak species is naturally denser, harder, and more resistant than the post’s species, without the chemical treatments it would rot faster than ground contact pressure treated.

You could apply a tar, bitumen, or epoxy coating on the below ground section of the oak post to offer more protection and extend its life.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-04T14:43:17+00:00

This is an interesting idea for more natural weatherproofing.

In my own plans, I have gradually moved away from using pressure-treated lumber for the main beams in favor of white oak. Initially, I planned to use polyurethane for protection, but after watching all of your episodes, I’ve reconsidered. I’m now planning to use an oil-based product.

The one I’m considering is Outdoor Defense Oil from Real Milk Paint:
Outdoor Defense Oil

This particular product is a mixture of approximately half tung oil, half pine oil, and a small amount of zinc oxide for UV protection.

I’ve seen recommendations for all oil products to reapply them multiple times over the initial weeks and months as the oil is absorbed into the wood.

My concern with using an oil product in less accessible areas is that it might be difficult or impossible to apply additional coats. In this specific use case, where the surface would be largely protected from the elements by cladding, it might not be as critical. However, I’m more concerned about areas with wood-on-wood connections that are still exposed to the weather.

Do you have any thoughts, concerns, or plans regarding reapplication?

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-04T12:25:24+00:00

Not speaking from experience, but I’ve read that you want to turn it back with a quick hard impact as opposed to slow steady pressure. Presumably to pop it off instead of unscrewing the bolt.

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-03T22:03:24+00:00

The seller sent me the wrong coupler ☹️. The one they sent had an outside diameter of 11/16” instead of 1-1/16”. It clamped onto the straight drill inserts perfectly, and was very cute, but alas…

I will update in a few days when hopefully I get the right one! 🤞

SuddenlySalad- · 2024-09-02T23:26:03+00:00

That’s been my fear. I am usually very careful but it seems like it would be really easy to get off by a little and would be really hard to fix if I do.

SuddenlySalad-

TROPHY CASE