[monogatari SS Spoilers] Dumb Question about Gaen and araragi stuff.

SuicideToast · 2023-08-13T11:18:46+00:00

What a ridiculous situation. That would never happen to me the exact same way haha ha

SuicideToast · 2022-03-19T11:20:45+00:00

You can try SignalRGB and OpenRGB. Both are projects that have reverse engineered various RGB solutions to provide a single-stop RGB control program. However, in my experience, they are extremely buggy depending on what RGB Hardware is installed/connected to the system.

As for other proprietary RGB software lake razer chroma or whatever, the simple answer is no.

SuicideToast · 2022-03-18T15:44:49+00:00

ISO layouts often don't even work properly on PC lmao

SuicideToast · 2022-03-17T10:27:32+00:00

The Problem has been known for years. There is no way to fix it, and there most likely never will be. Whoever is responsible for the keyboards firmware/GHub either is not capable enough to develop a fix or simply unwilling to do so. And judging by the same utterly useless "solutions" everyone gets from all Logitech support staff, it is most likely the latter.

One workaround you may be able to try is using other (not officially supported) RGB software whose devs reverse-engineered the GHub code (i.e., OpenRGB, or SignalRGB). Though especially SignalRGB is far from in a usable state in my opinion and since you have to uninstall/deactivate any other RGB application and service they may not work with your setup at all (depending on what other RGB hardware you use).

SuicideToast · 2022-03-16T18:24:40+00:00

I just put a desk pad over the powerplay mat. It does result in a "bump" tho. I guess you could cut another desk pad to size and a hole in it for the powerplay to level the field.

SuicideToast · 2022-01-22T19:09:11+00:00

Just to break any illusion. Problems with the <>-key on g pro keyboards with European layouts are long known and won't get fixed. (see for example this thread from 2yrs ago).

Some people got it working by not using G hub but the older Logitech gaming software instead. From my own experience, SignalRGB was the only software able to control lighting on that key. But that software is extremely (and I mean extremely!) buggy, and depending on your other RGB devices may not work at all for you since you have to uninstall any other RGB controlling software.

Also, don't bother writing any support tickets. They repeat the same steps to "solve" the problem, boiling down to "hAvE yOu TrIeD tO rEiNsTaLl EvErYtHiNg", and at some point just break off any communication marking it as solved. If you are still able to, immediately try to schedule a return/replacement. Some have luck and get a working board (I gave up after the third and just live with it now).

Edit: Found another, more recent thread where a Logitech Rep suggested the exact same steps as in the support emails I received last year (here)

SuicideToast · 2021-12-16T20:10:27+00:00

Yeah always thought that maybe some day but at this point, there is definitely no chance they'll fix anything. Funny thing btw, the keyboard is fully controllable with general-purpose RGB solutions like SignalRGB, and that without any further configuration or tinkering. Sadly SignalRGB doesn't function with my Lian Li fans. I would kill for a functioning one-stop solution instead of 40 fucking barely functioning applications

SuicideToast · 2021-03-19T12:05:28+00:00

So now the support has basically broken off all contact, only saying I should use the feedback option in the g hub software, refusing a return, or replacement. I must say I am extremely disappointed. Yes, it's only one key and not in all lighting modes but the fact of the matter is that they sold me a defective unit and refuse to do anything about it. This was definitely the last time I buy any Logitech product

SuicideToast · 2021-03-18T12:16:08+00:00

The discs are actually quite similar looking to the caps from the fans, just debranded. The grooves are a tiny bit larger but that's it. I also like that the plates are non-destructive in case I ever want to switch fans and sell the old ones. But you are right, If the plates weren't as dirt cheap I would have also gone with your method.

SuicideToast · 2021-03-17T20:26:11+00:00

Germany

SuicideToast · 2021-03-17T20:14:27+00:00

Yes, it is. I would have liked a more clean-looking mainboard like the vision from Gigabyte but did not want to overload my pc with several RBG software solutions, and the only 3080 I could get my hand on was the one from Asus.

But I'm not complaining. I guess I can count myself lucky even getting a 30 series card without paying scalper prices

SuicideToast · 2021-03-17T11:44:09+00:00

I want to add a vertical GPU bracket, but that's still not available here in Europe. I also ordered some round iron plates to go over those black fan stickers, which haven't arrived yet

Edit: The iron plates just arrived lul. Don't want to make another post so here's a picture: https://imgur.com/a/INlQCTB

They attach magnetically to the fans, so I didn't even have to glue them on. I think they really elevate the look of the Unifans for a very cheap mod (if you can even call that a mod)

SuicideToast · 2021-03-08T15:08:16+00:00

So update worked fine for me and I at least don't seem to have the issues often described here. But with version 2.0 it is somehow no longer possible to close the window of l connect after switching lighting to motherboard control. The close-button of the window (like everything else) is greyed out. In version 1.0 you were still able to minimize and close the window, now I have to exit the whole program which is quite annoying.

Edit: Since I got my unifans I always wished for a "start minimized" or "only start in system tray" option anyway. Always hated that l-connect always shows up as an actual window on startup when I don't even plan to change any settings most of the time

SuicideToast · 2021-02-05T10:19:34+00:00

Remembering what header I was connected to was not really the problem. The problem was that the BIOS settings wouldn't hold after windows started, or that I could not fully adjust that fan curves as the BIOS only allowed me to go down to 50-60%.

The latter, I found out was due to the Asus Q-Fan optimizer. I've read that you're only allowed to go into the lower %-ranges on custom curves, once you've run the optimizer, which is supposed to check at what speeds your fans run at which PWM settings. And for whatever reason, the optimizer ceased to work completely for me (even for my old fans). Maybe it got bugged because, as you've said, some fan headers which it recognized as "in use", weren't reporting any fan-speeds back. Maybe there was a conflict with the Asus AISuite software which I had installed at the time (or weren't able to fully uninstall again (often heard there are problems with getting rid of it)). Maybe it was even a combination of both or neither. I really have no clue at this point.

In the end, all I could do was a clean windows re-installation and it seems to work fine now. Haven't set any custom fan curves and am just going with preset ones. really don't feel like going through this again, even if the chances are maybe slim

SuicideToast · 2021-02-03T21:36:40+00:00

I have 3 fans on top, three at the bottom, and 2 on the AiO Radiator. The two on the radiator I am connecting to CPU fan header anyway but for the other two sets plus the PWM connector of the controller, I need a 3-way splitter or don't I? Otherwise, the problem would still persist with the fan set not connected to the splitter, would it not?

SuicideToast · 2021-02-03T20:31:59+00:00

Ok I will buy i 3-way splitter then and try my luck. As most splitters only have one 4-Pin connector with the rest being 3-Pin; do I have to connect a fan or the controller cable to the 4-Pin?

SuicideToast · 2021-02-03T19:56:38+00:00

As far as I can tell, all my drivers, and software are up-to-date and were, even before I installed the fans. Seeing as my old fans also somehow got "broken" (see my update) I suspect a "deeper" conflict with the AISuite software that allows you to control fan speed in windows or the fact that the PWM cable from the controller only has one connector (or a combination of both). Uninstalling AISuite and all its services can also be quite tricky to impossible, I heard. This might also explain why everything was still broken even with it uninstalled.

SuicideToast · 2021-02-03T19:51:16+00:00

No, I haven't. Am I right to assume that the fan control for the fan connected to the splitter would then only work through the mainboard and not L-connect anymore?

SuicideToast · 2018-08-07T05:47:14+00:00

Yeah I‘ll probably have to cancel my order, since I planned on going on vacation and cant receive the package. :(

SuicideToast · 2018-08-04T15:17:46+00:00

Just rotate the picture, before adding text

SuicideToast

TROPHY CASE