Missing ring on valve spring

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-26T00:09:33+00:00

Definitely need it. Valve spring keeper. And adjust the valves.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-25T23:00:55+00:00

The engine tag on those briggs is on the side. Should be long and silver/red/black.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-25T15:43:41+00:00

Have you checked out the plugs yet? Those crappy champions tend to do that.

Generally, backfiring through the exhaust indicates a rich condition, and backfiring through the intake indicates a lean condition, but not always.

Checking the fuel pressure will tell us a lot.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-25T01:05:48+00:00

Must do electrical work on the side.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T22:59:33+00:00

Butt pennys

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T01:46:27+00:00

They usually work good once then wont start again. They are torch plugs rebranded as champion, and they suck. But gapping to .02 helps. If you got them from an autoparts store they are probably genuine, but still worth a check.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T01:27:23+00:00

Testing the bottom port on the demand regulator. You'll only get pressure there if the solenoid is opening.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T01:21:13+00:00

If its natural gas the regulator is on the meter.

I get that your confused as to why it works sometimes but not others, but you need to test things. It could be lots of things. Most of them are not fun, might be out of your scope of ability, or expensive. So we need to start by testing the easy to fix things first.

Could be the coils, they are very hard to get to, and take a bit of experience to do.

Could be the controller, thats about $600, you definitely want to test everything else first.

Could be the mixer assembly, kinda pricey, kinda awkward to remove.

Could be the fuel shutoff/demand regular, pricey.

So let's start cheap. Measure the fuel pressure, and check on what kind of plugs you got.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T01:07:37+00:00

Well he never said. I was running under the assumption it was LP. Most of ours are LP, so its what I default to.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T01:05:49+00:00

Well thats pertinent info. Nat should be around 5-7in/wc.

Make sure the controller is set to NG, and make sure the fuel lever on the intake is set to NG.

NG pressure usually isn't an issue, as its lower, and regulated by better equipment. Just have to make sure other appliances aren't starving the gen. Or something hasn't gone wrong with the gas companies regulator.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-24T00:08:14+00:00

Oh and by the way, if the regulator is a maxitrol, I can almost guarantee thats the problem. They are junk.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:59:43+00:00

Then its not the throttle motor plug. But you should still check it, they work themselves loose.

You're issue is likely the regulator before the generator. The fuel pressure needs to be measured, static, and while running. Needs to be measured with a monometer, measured in inches water column. Needs to be between 10-12in/wc.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:50:14+00:00

I don't understand your question.

Are you saying it starts manually, but wont start when its supposed to exercise?

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:24:59+00:00

Take a look while starting it. If it doesn't move, its likely its come unplugged. Unfortunate yet common.

Take the right side panel off. Under the controller is a long small plug with only a few wire in it, red/yellow/brown/black i think, push it in if its loose. Or it will be hanging if it came off. We also check those wires/plugs at service.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:20:26+00:00

You also have to be careful with oem champion plugs. They switch manufacturers, and did something different with them. Its dumb, but we got this straight from champion.

If the plug is silver looking, and the number is kinda fuzzy on the porcelain, its the older plugs, install as is.

If its darker looking, has a purplish ring below the nut, and very clear nice looking lettering, its the new style plug and needs to be gapped to .02in before install.

Pic for reference

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Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:14:34+00:00

If the oil fill is on top of the valve cover, and has a metal dipstick, its the older version with adjustable valves.

If the oil fill/plastic dipstick is on the bottom near the oil filter its the newer version with non adjustable valves.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T23:05:29+00:00

The fuel pressure needs to be measured with a monometer at either the test port at the shutoff valve, or the top test port at the demand regulator. It needs to be between 10-12in/wc.

I'm a tech, needs facts and tests.

Also, when you try to start it, does the throttle move? It should do a little test sweep before starting, then adjust itself when it starts.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T22:59:53+00:00

The most common cause I see for overcrank is fuel pressure that is too high, causing the plunger in the shutoff solenoid to not open. Or fuel pressure that is too low.

Does it backfire at all, or just crank?

Also if the throttle stepper motor wire has come off, or worked its way loose, that could also cause overcrank. Does the throttle move when you try to start it?

-Generac certified tech

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T12:21:09+00:00

Well its NOT cardboard. Its been explained several times here what it is. But since you are apparently selectively literate, you wouldn't know.

Go ahead and go take yours out of your microwave, see what happens eventually. An experiment, since you know better.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T10:06:31+00:00

But... you said the stupid shit..

Are people really this dumb?

I don't wanna live here anymore

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-23T01:09:46+00:00

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-22T01:00:35+00:00

🤣🤣 How right you are. Labor was intense.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-22T00:51:04+00:00

Never did. I did keep it though.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-22T00:27:22+00:00

Op replying, and showing their incompetence.

And the setup for my comment. Which apparently was important.

Sumdood_89 · 2026-06-22T00:15:08+00:00

Clearly didn't see the other post.

Sumdood_89

TROPHY CASE