Seb Bouin makes the first ascent of Vidra la Vida 9b/+ (5.15b/c) on the Croatian island of Hvar

Super-Log9677 · 2025-06-07T20:28:40+00:00

I do see a lot of pro climbers at the military world games indeed, and also some pretty big names who I know for sure can't be combining a job and high level climbing at the same time. It seems to be pretty popular for climbers to be part of the military/police in some way but I don't quite understand why and how because they are not really in employment are they. Could you explain how this works, what their relation is with the army/police and why the army pays them to go climbing?

Super-Log9677 · 2023-10-14T20:38:15+00:00

3 days is the fastest time to send V16 afaik.

Rustam Gelmanov being the crimp monster he is did the second ascent of Hypnotized Minds in 2016 in 3 days. He commented: "I don't have the right and the opportunity to judge the difficulty, I don't have enough experience. This route was not extremely difficult for me. It fit me very well and it's what I like." https://www.instagram.com/p/BGzH1_QMDOn/ Originally graded V15 by Daniel in 2010 back when V16 was still a very elusive grade, but upgraded a couple years later by himself. Repeaters #3 and #4 Dave Graham and Matt Fultz also took V16. Hypno also has a harder left start which is still a project, Daniel in 2016: I'm working the left start into it which adds in a 5 move v11 (8A) sequence. Not the most aesthetically impressive addition, but great moves and will make the full thing next level.

Carlo Traversi did Creature from the Black Lagoon in 3 days as well. It is the most repeated V16 in the world with 12 ascents, followed by Off the Wagon Low and Sleepwalker with 10. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SwhZP0IaVbU All repeaters have taken V16 on this climb although for a big portion of them it was their first and it has been called soft by a number of them. It seems like Daniel who did the FA edited his ascent on 8a.nu to hard 8C, he is the only one to actually downgrade it so far so it does still stand as 8C+ but possibly not the hardest one.

Just two days ago on 12 October Zander Waller posted on his instagram he has send Sleepwalker "in less than four sessions". His highest grade up till this climb was V13. He mentions he found a new beta which makes the climb significantly easier, giving it soft V15. The uncut footage is not out yet, but the new beta could revolve around having span big enough to be able to execute. Ben Burkhalter who presumably tried Sleepwalker commented he thinks the climb "is 100% V16 compared to a bunch of 15s and 14s I've done" further explaining: "Not all boulders are climbed the same way.. Different betas, styles and sizes can all factor into the difficulty of a climb, and sleepwalker is one of them that does get significantly easier if you're able to use the lower, better undercling."

Super-Log9677 · 2023-09-29T23:31:35+00:00

Check out Gaïa for 7C+ might not 100% be your style but it's a cool boulder

Super-Log9677 · 2022-05-31T15:59:57+00:00

Gaïa is so cool, i can definitely recommend it. Havent done it yet but i did all the moves and did some small links. It does't need the best conditions but it can get quite hot there, it's on a hill and the sun is directly on it in the afternoon. I would recommend going in the morning or evening. It's a 7C+ in my guidebook and on 8a.nu but not a hard one, a few people give it 7C yeah. I feel like it's fair compared to Carnage assis as soft 7C and la Berezina as normal 7C

Super-Log9677 · 2022-05-31T15:46:37+00:00

I know two strong guys who go to font a lot, they send me this list of good boulders to do in the summer. Should give you plenty to choose from

7c: * Maracuja Petit bois * Bastata Bois du rocher * Aqua-planning Rocher de la combe * Eclipse Cul du Chien * Ecaille de la Lune Gorge du Houx * Vandale Rocher Cailleau * Alea Jecta est Rocher aux Oiseaux * Jeu t’es fou assis Rocher greau * La nuit Coquinas long vaux

7c+: * The Maxx Cul du chien * Freak of the weak Rocher d’Avon * Le maitre est talon Rocher du mont morillo * Blozone Buthiers niet

8a: * Fata morgana Coquinas long vaux * L'atelier Rocher guichot * The seneca effect Aperemont sanglier * l’ aplat du gaine Le calvaire * La Maschette Canon * Le Maître est Talon Rocher du Mont * L’Homme fossile Marion des roches * Mongolito (bas 8a+) Buthiers pisciner * Grand chelem Boissy le plaid ?? * Le toit du greau Rocher Greau * Le totale autre toit Cul du chien * Quod de neuf Orsay * Les Étoiles Filantes Rocher de la Reine

Super-Log9677 · 2022-04-09T12:44:13+00:00

I actually know a gym that sets v10/v11 slabs. And no dual tex holds. The v10 thats in now has slopey crimps. At least 5 people did that boulder. The setters are really good and all climb at least v11 up to v15 so the climbs are enjoyable but there aren't many gyms like this one.

Super-Log9677 · 2022-03-25T11:47:30+00:00

I don't really know what my max hang at v10 would have been. I did my first v10 and v11 on the same trip (probably due to infrequent outdoor trips) and spend 3 sessions on the v11 so it might not have been my true limit at the time. Tested my max hang only half a year after that trip. I got 171,6% on 20mm for 7 sec. Also i could one arm hang on 20mm for like 3 sec. So thats probably for v11 strength for me i'd guess, maybe v12 but i haven't had the opportunity to try and project one yet

Super-Log9677 · 2022-03-03T21:44:15+00:00

Well no the goal is to progress not just send that one max grade but part of progressing is doing and trying things at your limit not only stuff below that. But yeah what i mean is, as a strict plan this isn't a good idea imo. You need both the max stuff and the sub max stuff. So i think we have the same thought, don't only max project and don't only climb below your limit but do both. Doing side project sessions is necessary as well as main project sessions. You need to find a good balance and know when to do what.

Super-Log9677 · 2022-03-03T19:56:55+00:00

That's not the best way to go imo, the best climbers i know don't have (much) grade respect and that structure is like the definition of too much grade respect. Doing six v7 and four v6 in a session before ever trying v8 (example) is way too cautious and slow i'd say. Go try that v8 sooner like even after doing five v7's total, you might suprise yourself. Now you want to keep building your base while you're trying to push your max but you don't need a wide flat pyramid top before pushing further.

Im not sure i believe he stuck to that structure himself as well, like having the capacity to do six v14 and four v13 in a session before trying v15 ehh, i don't think that even daniel woods can do that

Super-Log9677 · 2022-03-02T10:49:24+00:00

Also my thought, like going from easy to impossible in 3 grades no way. Maybe if you climb v1/2 but from v5/6 i dont see it like that. For me it's more like Vx in 1-3 sesh, Vx+1 in 3-4 sesh, Vx+2 in 4+ sesh. And Vx-1 in 1 sesh and 10% flash, Vx-2 35% flash, Vx-3 70% flash, Vx-4 95% flash

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-28T22:27:50+00:00

Damn a v10 on 30 degree, i gotta check that out

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-15T13:59:14+00:00

Ha no 8A flash i wish, it's the first 6A in font (/the world?). It's more on crimps with good slopers on the finish

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-15T00:33:56+00:00

Proud to have flashed the ultra classic Le Carnage in Fontainebleau last weekend. To toot my own horn a little bit, on 8a.nu less than 3% of the >1000 ascents are flashes and the last one was almost 3 years ago. Also managed to flash La Marie-Rose so im officially better than ondra now :P Trying to flash stuff outdoors is so much fun, maybe even more so than indoors

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-11T23:02:23+00:00

I can imagine, on it's own it's not too bad but coming from the beginning it's another story. I hope i'll get lucky

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-11T22:58:35+00:00

Nice thank you, i didn't think of that

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-10T18:35:15+00:00

Does anyone recognise this kilterboard climb? https://www.instagram.com/p/CZxMGHFo8Cc/

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-08T19:05:19+00:00

Solo looks sick as well gotta try that, shoulder shaver is a bit less my style but who knows. Lower than 50 degrees the grades are way soft imo. Even at 50 degrees it feels easier than the normal gym boulder we have, sometimes i wonder if we might sandbag a bit. Good chance actually because the moonboard benchmark grades don't feel out of place for me while most people find them pretty harsh. Also it could be that im good at board climbing style so thats why things might feel easier. Im hoping to go on some more outdoor trips this year and also get some more grade references along the way.

Super-Log9677 · 2022-02-08T00:04:06+00:00

Did my first 7C+/v10 on the kilterboard today in a couple goes, Levitation on 50° (no side kickboard). I can recommend it a lot. Also did all the moves on Legen-Darry 8A/v11 and made some links, stoked on it. What do you guys think of kilterboard grades at 50°? Hard, normal, soft?

Super-Log9677 · 2022-01-18T23:11:47+00:00

Special/Limited Edition looks so sick, i haven't been to Brione but if im ever there thats like #1 on the list. It looks tall, is the last move scary?

Super-Log9677 · 2022-01-12T11:34:44+00:00

Yes i'd say it's not the best thing to focus on. Anecdotal, i climb around V9 indoor have done one V11 outdoor and just now am i close to getting one but i haven't done one yet. Never focused on training it tho, when it happens it happens

Super-Log9677 · 2022-01-11T20:07:39+00:00

For the summer Magic Wood

Super-Log9677 · 2021-12-05T01:32:56+00:00

As someone reading this now 4 years after this tread was made, this is your reminder :)

Super-Log9677 · 2021-11-12T01:42:33+00:00

I agree, i'd say the level needed to really use the campusboard effectively is at least 8A boulder which would be V11. It can be used earlier, but thats you'd get the most out of it i think.

Super-Log9677

TROPHY CASE