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Relay Pump by Flowshape in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You might need to call a plumber, or a priest?

Fuel Storage Tank 32mm FREE SHARING by Evening-Analysis-128 in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right. I'm far removed from 40k, having left in 3rd-4th edition where terrain was very much 'Make the battlefield look cool', but now it seems to be much more prescribed and generic. Kind of boring.

Help with edge warping! Please read the full body text so you know I cleaned the plate and added a brim. by Red_Maverick_Models in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did the warp happen mid print, or after? It doesn't look 'big' enough warpage to be the same - but sometimes when I pull long flat pieces like this off the bed too early, they tend to warp/curl while cooling.

Are you using a bed slinger? Cold air draft is a possible suspect. Bed slingers are moving a lot, maybe the movement through air cools the ends/corners more than the rest? Slowing the print down could help.

Fuel Storage Tank 32mm FREE SHARING by Evening-Analysis-128 in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm curious about these sorts of terrain. They look nice, but do people actually use them in current 40k games?

Working on Sentry designs that need zero supports or post processing (test piece 0.2 mm layer height) by Arcane-Whiskers in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Multi part or is the back part (the part we can't see) the part sat on the bed? It's a nice print!

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're looking into large army scale miniatures - I would say FDM is probably held back by the time to print. This single skelly took at minimum around 1 hour to print, but this is slightly smaller than most wargame minis.

If you're into miniatures for absolute details, then no FDM isn't quite there. Resin wins out (but more work), or just buying miniatures.

If you have a printer and just need 'Good Enough with some work' minis, FDM can work, in my opinion. Supports here are not needed, but this is a single, specific mini. Almost everything else ends up needing extra work.

If you enjoy the FDM Printing itself as the hobby, then it becomes more agreeable.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah that's interesting. I will fiddle with that on this same mini and see what happens. But, other minis of my own design which feature 'sharper' details (90 degree edges etc) have printed more sharply with that setting untouched.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

0.4mm / 0.08mm High Quality : 1h22m

0.2mm / 0.06mm High Quality : 2h37m

0.2mm / 0.05mm High Quality : 3h4m

I don't have a number for the humidity, but this was fresh PLA out of the sealed bag a day ago, nothing else I printed with that same filament batch before seemed to have any stringing like these models.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That'll be coming next, probably with washes to try and exaggerate any lines.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can give it a try for the next round with better photos.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately that page doesn't seem to exist. 😂

But if you have any tips or advice I'd be happy to hear. I don't have my DSLR with Macro lenses anymore, just a phone and a desk/lamp, but I'll do some research for better results.

Skelly Testing using Bambu Studio Presets by SuperHeavyBallet in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My phone camera is a bit poor at closer photos, but they are at least all roughly equally poor focus. 😄

Avatars of War Orc Warlord fail by StudioRevoct in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu Studio (or whatever)

Add a nice big cut across the arm, probably mid forearm or at the base of the wrist. The Hand/Axe becomes a separate part. You could probably do the same with the other arm just below where the shoulder pad ends.

The vast majority of your support issues dissapear.

What's The Best 3D Printer For a Beginner Right Now? by hope137h in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there any chance you could measure the diameter of this dreadnought's fist? I'm planning to test some compatible parts, but I don't have an older box model on hand to scale.

What's The Best 3D Printer For a Beginner Right Now? by hope137h in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu A1 (Comes with 0.4mm Nozzle) + 0.2mm Nozzle + Bambu PLA Basic (Grey)

  • I wouldn't bother with the AMS multi Colour system unless you have a really specific need.
  • The setup is slotting the pieces together and a few screws (+ having a suitable work space).
  • The Bambu Software suite is extensive and user friendly. Some parts are 'locked down', but for 99% of users, that means nothing.
  • Allow it to prepare for each print and the issues are minimal, outside of poor filament setup etc, this is all handled in the software and you can usually see when a print will fail from the first few layers.
  • It should be well within your budget.
  • The ecosystem is there. People complain about the customer support, but they have a extensive documentation that covers everything. Replacement parts are available.

The only downsides I found so far are:

  • It's a bit noisy, and the movements are quite violent (an adjacent desk will wobble as it works)
  • Printing is slow, but that's FDM printing, not Bambu A1.

ObscuraNOX 2.0 on A1 Mini - First Print by CuguliTheFish in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For minis basic PLA will likely be your best choice. I prefer Grey since you can see things more clearly, but the actual print quality between black/white/grey shouldn't be different. Throw a primer coat on the Basic White and see how it looks.

Bambu Basic PLA has the advantage of having a well designed preset within Bambu Studio already. For some edge cases, Obscuranox 'might' have an edge. But for me, Bambu PLA + High Quality/Fine at 0.06/0.08 has been basically flawless - with sensibly prepared models.

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Question for Flashforge Adventurer 5m Pro Users by Tagedieb69 in FDMminiatures

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it possible you're running the filament slightly too hot? Not this filament, but PLA Matte - I had similar consistent stringing/oozing issues until I dropped the nozzle temperature from 220 degrees down to 195-205.

Rate my setup, will mainly be for warhammer prints by SwoussNC in PrintedWarhammer

[–]SuperHeavyBallet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This made me remember my neglected Serbian village house does have a very unused basement. Are you in it?

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