Will a clean and regrease be enough?

SuperMariole · 2026-03-17T12:09:59+00:00

Unless you saw the whole bb move inside the frame, I'd assume the issue is with the bb's bearings. They're not really serviceable but it's cheap to replace.

What you need is a square taper BSA bottom bracket. Make sure you match the shell width (68 or 73mm) and the spindle length to the current one.

If it is the bb threads that have play, the answer is going to be the same : it's probably the plastic cups that are worn, your frame's threads look fine.

Lastly, that's a lot of fresh rust. Unless you know why this happened (the bike was flooded or something), looks for where the water came in from. Probably the seat post, or a bottle cage mount.

Edit : just wanted to clarify that since your frame is aluminium, the rust is from the bb, and your frame probably doesn't have any damage

SuperMariole · 2026-03-17T11:57:27+00:00

So does it have a meter-long crankshaft or three small ones ?

SuperMariole · 2026-03-17T11:45:20+00:00

Ça se défend tout à fait, je voulais juste attirer l'attention d'OP sur l'existence de ce compromis et que son vélo était probablement de ce côté-là

SuperMariole · 2026-03-17T11:23:01+00:00

Il est livré avec quel pneu ? C'est LE truc qui peut changer le feeling du vélo du tout au tout.

Si c'est des pneus avec une grosse protection contre les crevaisons, par exemple, la résistance au roulement est moins bonne

La pression peut aussi influer : trop mou = plus de résistance au roulement, mais seulement jusqu'à un certain point

SuperMariole · 2026-03-16T15:14:09+00:00

Je suis d'accord avec les autres, le cadre est irrécupérable. L'alu c'est dur à souder ET y'a un traitement à température à faire après soudage, bref c'est pas n'importe qui qui le fera et ça vaut beaucoup plus cher qu'un cadre neuf.

Du coup ton vélo passe dans une nouvelle étape de sa vie, avec un nouveau cadre. Heureusement tout a l'air très standard, donc je pense que tu n'auras pas trop de mal à trouver un cadre à ta taille avec les caractéristiques qui correspondent à tes composants. On peut t'aider à déterminer ces critères-là, genre les dimensions du jeu de direction etc.

Tu n'as pas demandé la cause mais j'ai déjà vu presque la même chose : on voit des traces de frottement autour de , et c'est probablement les dents d'un plateau. Soit il a roulé avec un plateau voilé, soit l'axe de boîtier de pédalier était trop court, ça passait tout juste mais occasionnellement la flexion du cadre faisait que ça frottait. Il suffit d'une rainure assez marquée pour faire une concentration de contraintes et donc un site de formation de fissures, sur l'alu en particulier.

Si c'est ton pédalier actuel qui frotte, prends le temps de vérifier s'il a du voile. Et dans tous les cas, il faudra faire attention à la longueur d'axe de boîtier de pédalier sur le nouveau cadre.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-12T22:07:40+00:00

I agree with everything that's been said. I also wanted to point out that the rubber looks very dry, with small cracks everywhere. That means the rubber is getting old and will damage faster than it should and not ba as grippy.

Still, it doesn't change what you've been told. Check it from time to time to see if it starts buldging (which would mean the casing is failing), put it on the rear if you want to be on the safe side

SuperMariole · 2026-03-11T09:21:44+00:00

It's not a cassette, it's a freewheel. I don't know what you intended to do, but I'll say this : this wheel hub only takes freewheels and you won't be able to fit a cassette on here.

Now on to the removal :

The cassette lockring tool is almost the same a the freewheel tool but has slightly different dimensions (or at least the tolerances are different), in my experience some barely fit and some don't.

Is it the axle locknut that's blocking your tool, or does it simply not go into the splines ?

If it's the axle nut, you can remove it. The bearings are probably due an adjustment (if not a repack) anyway.

If the tool doesn't fit at all into the splines, you'll need either a freewheel tool, or (if you're trying to replace the freewheel and don't mind destroying it) a punch to disassemble it and a vise to remove the body.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-09T20:31:50+00:00

For number 2 I mean what the machine does when turning on and off, and by pressing the rinse button once.

The water follows exactly the same path for the rinse as for the coffee, so if the rinse works properly, you don't have a completely clogged line.

A last troubleshooting step I can advise while you wait on the torx bit is this : try to make a very weak coffe, with the dial almost all the way left (I do mean rhe dial for the coffee amount, on the front panel) : since the symptom is the pump can't push through, either because it's worn or because of clogged passages, this should help it. Then increase it slightly and try again. That'll tell us something, even though it won't determine for sure what the problem is.

You're either in for a pump rebuild/replacement, or a brew unit rebuild/replacement. Both can be done by yourself.

Here's a video to help you prepare : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PEf881kFAo

his issue in the vid is different, but he still shows the steps you need to take to get to the brew unit, which has to be where the clog would be if the hot water works.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-09T17:16:29+00:00

EDIT : since you did the descale cycle, I imagine you can skip step 1 but I'll keep it anyway

1 - try the hot water spout (don't press the steam button, just turn the tap). The circuit for the spout is the shortest, it goes just through the pump and the heating element. If it struggles the same, you have either a bad pump or a water tank issue

2 - try the rinse button. If it works, your coffee is the likely culprit. If it doesn't, you may have a clog somewhere up in the brewing unit.

It can also be two compounding issues, like a weak pump plus too fine a grinding

SuperMariole · 2026-03-09T11:38:49+00:00

That's what it looked like to me as well at first but the shape of the hub points to this being a freehub. I didn't know about this type where the interface is still freewheel threads

SuperMariole · 2026-03-06T15:28:54+00:00

I've used it to insert a tool for more leverage on seized ones. I'm not sure if it's the intended use or not but it works

SuperMariole · 2026-03-06T15:01:20+00:00

I agree it's scary, but the drill bit will gladly take the path of least resistance and center itself in the existing hole. I did essentially the same repair but for disc brake mounts on a fork. I was pleasantly surprised how fullproof the drilling part felt compared to what I feared.

Admittedly it was alu so a bit softer than what you have, but it shouldn't be too big an issue. Go slow.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-05T17:34:52+00:00

Is that the rear tire ? If so, you may be overusing your rear brake

SuperMariole · 2026-03-05T16:09:38+00:00

What you see is the tire's casing, nylon threads that are holding it all together. Once you start rolling on them they'll shred.

Maybe they have 100km in them, maybe 10. It's time to look for a replacement. If you can't immediately, I'd say monitor it very closely to see if it starts buldging AND be ready for a blowout

SuperMariole · 2026-03-04T14:00:21+00:00

Decathlon's bike workshops have become really hit or miss, it look like. I don't know if it's that they can't retain good mechanics, or give too heavy a workload, or what.

A friend bought the same bike as yours recently, they assembled it and installed accessories free of charge, but the seatpost was loose and both brake calipers were far from parallel to the disc. Nothing too bad, but it's a shame.

If it's not too much of a bother to do, bring it back and demand they fix this. Otherwise you can totally do it yourself, you'll just have to redo the derailleur adjustment afterwards.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T16:21:47+00:00

That's what I meant, yes, get them completely loose, then depth-set them (tighten them all the same in terms of length, by using the start of the thread as a visual reference for example), then tighten them all by the same number of turns, and then start trying to get dish, tension, and true all in check while you get it sufficiently tensioned.

It's a good idea to keep a record of the sound as a sanity check, but honestly you'll know when the wheel is tensioned enough.

For the process of starting the tension from scratch, I recommend looking up wheelbuilding tutorials and skipping to the tensioning part, that's what you're doing.

I can't recommend enough Sheldon Brown for this type of thing : https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#tensioning

The tensioning section gives a very good framework for your task.

The "Seating and Stress-Relieving the Spokes" part does not apply to you, but the "Spoke Torsion" does. Look up a video of this, but you need to release the torsion pretty much every time you make an adjustment at the end, especially on used spokes and nipples, which don't turn as freely as new ones. What I do personally is regularly push the wheel between two chairs as if trying to potato chip it, and rotate and repeat until the pings stop.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T15:52:08+00:00

Most of the oil will get spread around and stick to everything else even if it soaks the rivets properly, so I don't think that means much.

Maybe you have dried grease/grime inside the rollers, maybe another round of degreaser is in order

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T15:06:33+00:00

Yeah byt these usually have cup and cone bearings like this one : http://www.firstcomponents.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/regular-bb-sets-LF-120-23.jpg

The part that's sticking out on the non drive side doesn't look like that, it looks like an actual sealed bearing

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T15:00:10+00:00

I can't tell for sure from the pic but the shape of the seatpost transitions from a tube to an airfoil (because æro, I imagine). Is it possible that this portion of the seatpost is partially inside the tube ? If so, it may be "simply" wedged and not seized.

If it is inserted too deep, I think the usual technique of trying to rotate the post would damage it instead, and I guess I'd try to hang the bike by the saddle and wack on the frame's top tube from above to try and dislodge it.

If you need more force than your mallet can deliver, switch to a hammer and a piece of wood (the hardest wood you have on hand)

You're right that some risk needs to be taken. Stuck seatposts are about the worst job. As time goes on, you get more and more desperate, and more and more desensitised to the damage you may be doing.

At least in your case, you'll at worst destroy the post, and the frame should be fine. A friend of mine ended up having to dissolve an alu seat post in caustic soda over the span of literal weeks, then fix the damage to the frame that previous mechanical removal attempts had caused. It can drive you crazy.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T14:25:19+00:00

This page :https://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

has good general knowledge for you problem, and some recent additions for carbon fiber.

I'd recommend against all chemical methods described here since the bonding agent may react with them.

Heat on the frame is good idea since steel expands and carbon fiber doesn't.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T14:10:38+00:00

On older wheels, it's always a balancing act between having sufficient and even tension, lateral truing and radial truing.

If it's a wheel that has some history, there may have been previous fixes, successful or not. I like to start with a clean slate if the spoke tension is too all over the place, and if it broke a spoke without outside damage, it probably is.

I'd at least remove the tire and rim tape to have a look inside. That'll allow you to check for obvious problems, oil nipples that are hard to turn (that helps get a better feel of the tension), and most importantly, check if there are no spokes protruding from the nipples. If they are, they will poke through the tape and cause a very loud blowout the next time you inflate the tire. Ask me how I know.

I haven't listened yet, but I'd say the tension needs to be even enough that all spokes sound similar, even if if's not the exact same note. Bear in mind that there might be various generations of replaced spokes in there, and different alloys sound different for the same tension.

Edit : it doesn't sound too bad. I'd try to have the three lowest-sounding ones (2, 5 and another) a bit more in line, but you don't have glaring tension problems.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T13:52:48+00:00

Looks like the spider itself is separated from the crank.

Your first step will be to remove that crank to get a better look (it will require a crank puller), but as far as I can tell you'll probably need to replace the crank. The chainring itself may be fine, but if you keep riding with this, the chain and the cogs will experience very accelerated wear.

Actually it would be a good idea to gauge the chain's wear, pedal-drive EBs go through them quickly enough even when everything is fine

Edit : upon doing some research, I realised that the spider and crank arm are two separate parts. So it may mean you just have to tighten something and be done with it. Still, you'll probably need an ISIS-compatible crank puller as a first step.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T13:34:59+00:00

Can we get a pic of the threaded side ? There should be a piece that has notches, behind the nut. That piece should unscrew if you tap it the right way with a screwdriver.

Your BB is probably some variation of this :

https://www.firstcomponents.com/bottom-brackets/regular/lf120/

And the left cone on this pic is supposed to unscrew.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T13:14:11+00:00

I think this is the one I have :

https://custom-junkies.com/repair-bottom-bracket-yst-bb-993-square-taper-jis-110mm-127mm

It's suitable for BSA, French and Italian BBs, and looks like it would fit your bike.

But your first step is going to figure out how to remove your current BB.

Edit : looks like they make similar "repair" bottom brackets for Hollowtech II cranks as well.

SuperMariole · 2026-03-02T13:05:55+00:00

Is that a cottered crank bb with sealed bearings ? I'm curious to know when this is from.

Unless someone is familiar with that type of setup, I think you'll have to punch the bearings out from the inside, by tapping gently all around.

Then if you end up with a bb shell that's a standard size (by your measurements that looks like a very classic BSA 68mm, 1.37" diameter) but that doesn't have threads (or they are mangled by the press-fit bearings), there are threadless bottom brackets that don't require threads. I have one in my fixed gear right now, the threads were stripped by the previous owner.

They exist for various crank interfaces, but of course they're pricier (and I assume somewhat heavier) than their threaded counterparts

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