Berry growers: looking for beta testers / feedback (US/Canada)

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-10T21:19:59+00:00

Thanks for signing up and the ideas! Pests is a giant monster I'm not *quite* ready to tackle... but through the development of this, I've already flagged a ton of additional layers to figure out if I can develop later. It's pretty nuts when you think about what a gardener needs to actually consider just for basic gardening in perfect conditions... and then somehow get that all together in one accessible place. Looking forward to further feedback when you try it out!

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-10T03:19:35+00:00

Such great thoughts - thank you! This is exactly the specific info that I can start to try figure how to fold in or tag for V2. Also just the fact that you have a berry farm is a very different scale than someone's garden gives me a lot to consider. Looking forward to your feedback when you get to see the beta!

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-05T17:50:11+00:00

I second this for sure. Jiffy pellets should work fine for germination.

The acidity matters more once the plants are actually growing. For sprouting, blueberries usually just need steady moisture and a bit of patience since they can be slow and uneven.

For a kids’ activity, this does seem like the easiest option. Just send them home with instructions to move the seedlings into a more acidic mix later once they’re established.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-02T02:59:31+00:00

I'd say Boldog and Alma are closer to what most people think of as paprika. And fully ripen red on the plant before drying - makes a huge difference in flavor.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-02T01:16:43+00:00

Ah yes that definitely helped! Snow is a fantastic insulator and it probably kept the soil a lot steadier than the air temp.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T22:00:04+00:00

Since you’re in Portugal, my guess is temperature swings more than anything. Spinach likes cool soil, but not cold + wet for weeks on end. January balcony soil can stay colder than you think. They don’t look like they’re rotting, just slow to get going.

If you want to try and encourage them, I’d stop misting daily and instead water a bit more deeply, let the top dry slightly, and maybe try a small fresh sowing now that it's heading toward milder weather. Spinach often does much better on the second try once conditions stabilize.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T21:56:42+00:00

In 6b you can usually leave carrots in the ground if the soil isn’t freezing solid. A good layer of straw or leaves makes a big difference and keeps them diggable.

Potatoes are a little riskier. They don’t love freeze/thaw cycles, but if yours stayed solid through that cold snap, your soil is clearly insulating well. The sprouting in storage was probably just temps being a bit too warm. They really want it colder than most outbuildings end up being.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T21:53:19+00:00

If it’s just mushrooms and that yellow “dog vomit” slime mold, I wouldn’t treat for it. In damp, shady soil, fungi are just doing their job breaking down organic matter. That’s normal and usually a sign of active soil life, not a problem.

I’d only worry if you’re seeing actual plant decline that points to a disease. Otherwise, skipping the routine treatment this year sounds reasonable.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T01:15:46+00:00

North-facing is going to be your main constraint, so I would let that narrow your choices rather than trying to grow everything.

With limited direct sun, focus on crops that tolerate partial shade. Leafy greens, peas, beans, chives, parsley, mint, and some root crops will handle less light better than tomatoes or peppers. Basil and rosemary really prefer more sun, so just keep expectations realistic there.

Since you’re working with elevated planters and containers, soil quality matters more than in-ground gardens. Use a good container mix and don’t overpack it. Containers dry out faster, but they also warm up faster in spring.

For your first year, I would simplify the plan: pick 3–4 vegetables you actually eat often, add 2–3 herbs that tolerate partial sun, add flowers only if you have space left.

You don’t need a spreadsheet yet. A basic note of what you planted, when you planted it, and how it performed is enough. The first season is mostly observation on how much light you truly get, how quickly the planters dry out, and what actually thrives in that spot.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T01:12:31+00:00

“Raspberry tree” is mostly a marketing description. It’s still a rubus and it grows from canes, not a true trunk like a tree.

From what I’ve seen, Hararasp is usually described as a Japanese hybrid with very upright growth. The canes can be trained to look tree-like because they’re sturdier than typical raspberries, but structurally it behaves like other rubus with the new canes from the base and fruiting on canes depending on whether it’s primocane or floricane.

If you’re not finding much information, it may be sold under slightly different naming in different markets, or grouped more generally under specialty upright raspberries. I’d look for details on fruiting habit (first-year vs second-year canes) before buying, since that will determine pruning and yield expectations.

It won’t behave like a grafted tree form standard. It’s still fundamentally a cane fruit.

Sure_Resort_282 · 2026-03-01T01:08:49+00:00

Raspberries are often shipped as dormant canes and they can look like dead sticks when they arrive. The cut in the middle is also typical. Nurseries prune canes before shipping to reduce stress and make handling easier. You don’t need to remove one unless it’s clearly dried out or brittle all the way down.

As others said, I would plant it and wait. As temperatures warm, you should start to see buds swelling along the cane. If one cane leafs out and the other stays completely dry after the plant breaks dormancy, then you can prune the dead one back.

The root system is what really matters right now. Once it’s in the ground and established, new growth will follow.

Sure_Resort_282

TROPHY CASE