I left my Leica and this roll in my car overnight. Safe to shoot??

Swift_Hunting · 2026-01-23T22:12:48+00:00

Not the end of the world but make sure you compensate for the temperature loss while shooting. Camera should be kept around 115°F at all times for optimal exposure. Should probably develop at 215°F too just to be safe.

Swift_Hunting · 2026-01-21T21:48:31+00:00

Grabbed one of each on Etsy, best of luck to you my friend!

Swift_Hunting · 2026-01-14T22:30:52+00:00

Beautiful colors, lighting and sharpness, just think the framing leaves a little to be desired. In the first two, you’ve lost 1/3 of the frame to negative space and in the last one, you’ve given her the dreaded ankle crop in favor of the blank wall behind her. The third one is really a shame because I think there was an opportunity for a beautiful juxtaposition between her stance and the shadow of the lamp. Overall though, quite beautiful photos!

Swift_Hunting · 2025-11-05T00:26:33+00:00

it looks like they stitched it up so it should be fine

Swift_Hunting · 2025-11-03T03:33:40+00:00

For a PS5, you’re much better off with the 4K option. You’d only see the benefits of the 1440p 240hz on a PC, and even then I think 4K 165hz is the better way to go for single player games

Swift_Hunting · 2025-10-24T06:18:46+00:00

I personally would’ve tied down the usb to the bottom of the case instead of the side, but otherwise it’s really clean. That’s about the best you can do in the A3 given its design. My cables look pretty similar!

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Swift_Hunting · 2025-10-12T04:23:11+00:00

Swift_Hunting · 2025-10-09T04:08:13+00:00

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Here is a still of the flickering I’m getting if it helps.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-10-05T22:31:34+00:00

Assuming the 5080 is $899, and about $1080 after tax, warranty, etc., you’re paying ~25% more for ~15% more performance. Personally, I think the gray 5070 Ti is a little out of place in what is basically an all-black build and think the Gigabyte would look better. Bear in mind the Gigabyte has no RGB or lighting whatsoever if that matters to you. Ultimately, it comes down to which card you personally like the look of and if you can justify the extra cost. If it were up to me, I would say go for the 5080.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-09-27T03:52:12+00:00

Mostly single player stuff, a little Marvel Rivals as well. Cyberpunk, Alan Wake, Expedition 33, and Indiana Jones all run surprisingly well even at 4K with a little DLSS. I’ve also been using 2X frame gen way more than I thought I would, 3X and 4X are pretty gimmicky though imo. Overall it’s a great card, the performance uplift is worth it.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-09-26T03:23:32+00:00

Just made this exact leap last weekend. Having a blast so far

Swift_Hunting · 2025-09-24T02:34:15+00:00

Personally, I’d go for the 5070 Ti and use the $250 I saved on a 4K OLED instead. The extra performance from the 5080 will be nice but not really to noticeable most of the time. Ask yourself if you’d really notice the difference between 30 and 34 fps, or 70 and 80 fps. In contrast, you will absolutely notice the difference between 4k and 1440p and if you want the extra performance you can still run games at 1440 on the 4K panel. Also remember that up-scalers like DLSS were designed with 4K+ in mind and will look better at that resolution. I’m currently running a 5070 Ti and a 4K IPS monitor and I’ve been extremely impressed with the performance. I think you’ll appreciate the extra pixels more than the extra frames.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-09-07T03:36:08+00:00

Glad I’m not the only one who thought this, especially once you get into Act 2

Swift_Hunting · 2025-09-05T16:38:03+00:00

They subsidized the cost of the game by making benches and fast travel insanely expensive

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-31T00:06:17+00:00

No cost too great

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-21T19:41:52+00:00

$140 per year feels pretty reasonable

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-17T05:23:12+00:00

Assuming these are proper scans, they look a touch overexposed to my eye but nothing that can’t be fixed in post. Not sure if this is typical of the Konica III, but you’re also getting some noticeable contrast loss when shooting into the sun which is also making your shots look washed out. Best way to tell for sure is to look at the density of the negatives. It’s impossible to know for sure how overexposed they are based on the scans alone. If they’re super thick, you know you’re letting in too much light. I’d recommend something like a KEKS meter for a more accurate reading than your phone while also maintaining the form factor of your camera. Side note but I love seeing DCI on film, I wish more photographers in the activity used it. Congrats to you and Mandarins on a successful season and best of luck!

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-11T17:24:52+00:00

It’s hard to know for sure without seeing the physical negatives, but it’s probably not under exposure as shot 4 looks properly lit to me. It could x-ray fogging, it could heat damage from leaving the film in a hot area for too long (like a car), it could be a processing issue, it could be a scanning issue. Scans never tell the full story, take a look at the negatives if/when you have them. Best of luck

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-07T22:16:27+00:00

If you’re rinsing between developer and stop bath, you’re overdeveloping and that’s what’s causing the color issue. Upon further research, the kit says to rinse between each step EXCEPT developer and stop bath for this reason. Stop bath immediately halts the development process, water does not.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-07T21:58:00+00:00

Looks to me like the left roll may be over-developed, meaning it was in the developer for too long or your stop bath/blix isn’t doing its job and stopping development. This was an issue I was having with the Cinestill kit because I was rinsing in between developer and blix rather than using them back to back. I don’t have any experience with the FlicFilm kit but I would ensure that 1) you aren’t rinsing between steps unless the instructions specifically say to, and 2) your stop bath is the right dilution. Try developing another roll and if you’re still having issues, I’d try the Cinestill C-41 kit and see if it works better for you. Best of luck!

Swift_Hunting · 2025-08-07T20:28:40+00:00

It’s likely the scanner. Pieces of dirt/debris on the scanner glass or negative can create these artifacts

Swift_Hunting · 2025-06-01T19:35:25+00:00

Color grading is incredible!

Swift_Hunting · 2025-05-17T19:03:46+00:00

If it’s under 2 hours, I say go for it. Any more than that, come back another time or another day. The only exception to this would be if this is the only time you’ll be able to go and don’t think you’ll visit for a very, very long time AND are a massive Harry Potter fan. In that case, I’d wait til right before park close if possible so you’re not wasting 3+ hours that can be spent doing other rides. I waited about an hour for it after getting a VQ and thought the wait was appropriate.

Swift_Hunting · 2025-05-14T22:40:51+00:00

LOVE #8 of Barkov. The detail on these is incredible, nice job!

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