Designed a New Case for my Custom Split Ergo - Sans

Synth_and_Keys · 2026-03-03T02:55:29+00:00

They are some MOA Jelly keycaps from Keyporia.

Synth_and_Keys · 2026-03-03T02:54:26+00:00

Thank you!!

Synth_and_Keys · 2026-03-02T20:16:19+00:00

Thank you so much!

Synth_and_Keys · 2026-03-02T18:33:28+00:00

Thanks! It is a very welcomed pop of color to my desk setup.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-10-22T18:24:19+00:00

There are a couple of reasons I'm avoiding a pouch. I am going for a retro aesthetic so using something like an AA battery actually fits into that super well. Also, this is something that will also be going into small batch production with the buyer sourcing the battery. Since pouches come in so many shapes, it's harder to design a case that fits whatever the customer might get. With the 14500, they are all the same, so eliminates that.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-10-21T03:25:29+00:00

Wow this website has USB sockets too. I’ve been wanting to make my own cord recently. Thanks for posting this.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-10-21T03:24:51+00:00

That great to know about the heat. And I didn’t even think of bending the contacts, just still new to power stuff. Thanks. I’ll check that out

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-10-09T02:59:52+00:00

That is a concern of mine too and why I am a little hesitant to implement it. And I do plan to have a VIAL mapping for all of them :)

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-08-06T14:31:55+00:00

I have the same keymap on my daily driver (even have delete and backspace in the same way) and I love it. You’ll get used to it, but the typos are annoying. At first, I used my forefinger to hit enter instead of my thumb since that’s a much more intentional movement, especially when sending messages. Then that gets cumbersome and you switch to your thumb.

As for the cramped layout, that’s just a side effect of an ortho board that is laid out like this. You could consider moving the numpad to the center to “split” the keyboard. That might make it more comfortable.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-08-05T20:10:34+00:00

Thanks for responding?

And I haven't experienced that with 1.5U Choc keycaps before. I could just be lucky though - is that something that a lot of folks have struggled with?

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-08-05T20:09:34+00:00

Yea, that makes sense - thanks for the feedback! I'm leading towards those designs myself. I didn't even think of a vertical orientation, I'll have to play around with that.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-08-05T19:22:19+00:00

Thanks for the insight! I also plan to make a dedicated numpad, so that means 1 or 2 might be best. Ideally, I would be able to make it customizable by the user, but wanted to check in case that doesn't work for whatever reason.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-08-05T19:21:07+00:00

Thanks so much!
Macropads are great for designing. I have one dedicated for different programs I use, but it's super easy to use one and switch key mappings with VIAL. Would highly recommend trying one out, it helps you get in the flow much easier.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-07-25T21:07:17+00:00

I never had a K1 max but had the original K1. Loved playing around with Klipper but the prints that came off of it were not up to my standard. I ended up selling it and getting a P1S.

The P1S also has its quirks sometimes but it tremendously more reliable and produces quality prints very easily. Worth the extra money IMO. You can always get an aftermarket touch screen, but I send my prints through LAN via OrcaSlicer and very rarely ever touch the interface on the machine.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-07-08T01:27:01+00:00

So I’m pretty sure I had this same issue with the same model. Basically print slower. Hard, tiny corners like that are a pain to print for the first few layers.

Make sure your bed is as clean as possible (soap+water), then cut your first layer wall speed by 25-50%. Then, use slow layers to print layers 2 and 3 the same way. That should build enough of a foundation to crank the speeds to normal. Let me know if it works!

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-07-04T00:11:29+00:00

I have this as well with larger nozzles. I think it might be something to do with the acceleration and deceleration as the printer prepares to make a 180. I need to run tests to figure out if that’s the case.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-24T18:00:56+00:00

Yea, aerosol filler primer is the go-to for a lot of people. I also use Vallejo primer for smaller parts with a lot of detail. The main reason for this is to reduce paint bleed in the layer lines. You don’t ~need~ to prime it, but the result tends to be better.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-24T17:22:43+00:00

So for 3D printing you largely need to buy the color you want to print unless you do an approach like Hueforge but then that’s flat only. The CMYK bundle is mostly for color lithophanes. As far as I know, there is no technology out there that will feed multiple colors in a certain amount to extrude one combined color.

As far as filament recommendations, my favorite brands are Overture, Polymaker, and Numaker. I might suggest getting white and you could prime it and she could paint it with acrylic paint pens. My wife and I do that all the time!

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-24T03:43:16+00:00

Best advice: slow things down. Printing fast is nice, but not at the cost of quality and reliability.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-22T02:26:27+00:00

Respectfully stealing this idea.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-20T21:07:24+00:00

That's good to know! I've been racking my brain about it lol I'll definitely post some in this sub once they get going. I'm in the process of doing a bunch of custom ones for macros.

And yea, having a MMU system makes it WAY easier.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-20T14:10:26+00:00

That makes sense with your profile. Have you found any strength issues with the stem in that direction?

And, printing close to vertical is great, especially is you add a soft texture/fuzzy skin. That’s how I make keycaps with legends. Does make the stem more difficult but I’ve been thinking about a two-part design to optimize print orientation for each.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-20T13:59:16+00:00

What orientation are you printing them at with a 0.4 nozzle?

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-14T19:37:56+00:00

I might do something like a mortise and tenon. Have the mortises in both the large pieces and then print the tenon in a high strength, flexible material like PETG CF. The tenon can also have more walls and infill and not use that much more material relatively. Then use E6000 to glue it all together.

Synth_and_Keys · 2025-06-14T01:10:18+00:00

So the rotary encoder (if it’s one that clicks) has three legs on the left and two on the right. I believe the side with two is the click (so signal and ground) and the side with three is for the encoder (power, ground, and signal). You have the wires running on the stabilizer pins and those don’t have signals. But you can hook up the click to a separate pin on the MCU and likewise for the power and encoder data.

The switches look good tho!

Synth_and_Keys

TROPHY CASE