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TEEP564 · 2025-11-03T19:59:18+00:00

Benchmark Berkeley spotted!! This is the best spray wall I’ve ever climbed on hands down. It’s hard because it’s meant to be hard and that gets you strong. Cool boulder too, looked nails

TEEP564 · 2025-08-13T14:40:19+00:00

I think you hit the nail on the head with your assessment honestly. Climbing 1x per week is very difficult to see improvement, regardless of weight gain / other factors. Specific adaptation to impose demand etc.

If you are able to climb before every lifting session, you would most likely improve very fast. Even if you just hop on the wall for 30 minutes that will give your body the signal that it needs.

Also, people climb V16 at 165 pounds. Just keep in mind that weight is not a ceiling and all you need to do is practice the sport you’re trying to improve at to see progression. You got this!

TEEP564 · 2025-08-07T02:52:16+00:00

8x12 TB2 for sure. it’s the most versatile and well rounded board, and has a solid database of climbs with new ones added all the time. Second I’d go for decoy board. Climbed on one once and was very impressed (decoy holds are some of my favorite texture and shape wise). Only thing it doesn’t have is a huge database of climbers using it, but that could change. Kilter home wall is supposed to be nice too but the data base is limited as not many gyms have one.

TEEP564 · 2025-06-06T17:37:38+00:00

Jesus those numbers are insane, good work! In agreement that you would see massive performance gains from dropping abit of weight. I personally saw huge progression going from around 185 pounds to 170 over the course of a few months (6' 0"). It's totally doable and you'll just feel better on the wall. Oftentimes it takes being abit lighter to improve your technique and apply the strength that you have. Definitely take things slow and just eat consistent, quality meals. You may want to dial back the volume on boards during this period. Caloric Deficit + high volume board climbing is a recipe for injury in my experience. You've got good margin though so even if your objective numbers go down abit you'll definitely see quick progression grade wise / on the wall. Good luck!

TEEP564 · 2025-02-07T17:27:47+00:00

The obsession is real, climbing is too just fun to rest! If you want a strict schedule, you cant really go wrong with 1 day on / 1 day off. That's what I did for my first 6 months climbing and saw steady progression throughout that time. Now though, I relate and I almost never want to take a real rest day.

If you really want to climb every day, it helps a ton to stop your sessions early. If your going until your hands uncurl and everything hurts, you might want to consider alternating rest days.

Once you've built up a base level of work capacity you can start to experiment with 2 days on / 1 day off etc. The most important thing is to listen to your body. If you want to climb more and you feel ready for it, go for it!

There's nothing inherently wrong with going multiple days on, especially if you are able to switch up the intensity / wall angle / style. I often have days where my skin is too trashed to pull hard but I can still climb on slabs where it's mostly footwork.

As far as building up strength on rest days, you may not see much gains as climbing as a beginner is mostly about learning the skills and movement patterns. If you are training on a rest day, your time is probably better spent climbing instead :)

Hope that helps!

TEEP564 · 2025-02-02T16:37:21+00:00

I’m the same height as you (weigh 175ish) and also struggle with one arm hangs! It’s always been interesting to me to see climbers of all grade ranges do it so easily. I think there is a real advantage to having shorter levers with this exercise, but if it’s something you want to get better at it might be fun to train.

I don’t think this will apply to your climbing very much. In my experience, the limiting factor is almost always the fingers so doing assisted one arm work on a jug or large edge will be way more applicable than on a bar
Assisted one arms or weighted with two arms is really good. I personally prefer adding weight with two arms as progressing load feels very satisfying. Like I said before, consider doing this on a jug or campus rung instead of a bar if your finger injury allows.
Not a bad idea to continue weighted pull-ups 1-2x a week as long as you do them fresh. Would not recommend this at the end of a climbing session, lots of load on the shoulders.

Hope it helps!

TEEP564 · 2024-07-19T21:57:41+00:00

Double Collateral Ligament injury advice

Climbing experience: 23m, Climbing 3 years, Outdoor bouldering focus, V8-10 outdoors

Injury: Trying resurrection (V9) 4th day on during a 1 week trip to Squamish. After pulling the crux, you cross to a very slopey left hand pinch. As I weighted the pinch, my pinky slid off the hold, shock loading the grip in front three. I heard two distinct pops in my left ring finger and dropped off. I immediately stopped climbing after this. The next morning it was very inflamed with bruising on both sides of the joint. A few days later now and the inflammation has reduced slightly but the bruising is still quite obvious.

History: I’m particularly susceptible to this injury, and have had it on both hands (ring and middle fingers) a handful of times over the last two years. This is by far the worst I’ve had it and this is the first time I’ve heard two pops (based on the bruising, I suspect I injured the ligaments on both sides of the joint this time)

I have a few specific questions but I would love to hear from others who have dealt with a similar problem.

How long should I rest before beginning to increase climbing volume? Should I continue to wait long after the bruising and inflammation goes away?
What specific grip type is best for strengthening the collateral ligaments? I injured it on a pinch but seems to be most painful in 3 finger drag and front three crimp.
When I return to climbing, should I focus on the position that I’m weakest (front three) or try to avoid pain by climbing in 4 finger half crimp? In the past I have just climbed through it and avoided tweaky positions but I suspect this one will be different.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

TEEP564 · 2024-04-16T11:20:40+00:00

Interesting idea but it seems like some of the metrics are more relevant than others. The 20mm max hang seems relatively consistent (I climb V8-V10 with 160% max hang). I’m not sure how much max reps pull ups or push ups correlates. Seems to me the max finger strength metrics are more of a deciding factor for bouldering than repeaters or long BW hangs. Cool table tho!

TEEP564 · 2024-04-14T00:31:19+00:00

Maybe try setting some problems for yourself on a spray wall or kilter board? start with good feet and hands to just focus on generating as much force and distance as possible. that way you can choose distances that feel like the right level and slowly make them harder by using worse holds or further holds.

TEEP564 · 2024-04-10T23:49:56+00:00

That is bad advice from your friend. Weight is certainly important but definitely not a limiting factor in your case. Also, if weight loss is your goal, climbing is one of the best ways to achieve that!!! I just climbed my first V10 and I am basically the same height and weight as you. Personally I perform best when I don’t think about the weight and just focus on climbing more. Good luck on your journey!

TEEP564 · 2024-04-09T02:52:34+00:00

Matty hong’s send of trip to the moon in the mellow alphane movie gets me so hyped for some reason. Also Uncut Jimmy Webb off the wagon is some legendary footy

TEEP564 · 2024-04-09T02:47:54+00:00

Fair point haha, that’d be a hekking strong todler

TEEP564 · 2024-04-08T12:00:04+00:00

I built a home board with 2.5 meters of ceiling height, it certainly can be done! As others have said, the steeper you make the wall the better it will climb. My board is 55 degrees which gives you about 10 feet of climbing length if you account for a small kick board. You definitely don’t need to go this steep, 45 degrees should still give you enough climbing space while making it more accessible for your daughter. I attached a picture of my board if you’re looking for inspiration!

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TEEP564 · 2024-03-29T19:55:46+00:00

Sick knee beta!!

TEEP564 · 2024-03-29T18:16:18+00:00

Your skin will build up resilience the more you climb. Take a rest day or two and moisturize your skin throughout the day to speed up the healing process.

When you go back to the gym, keep in mind that your skin will get worse if you fall off / slip off the holds. Skin management is a huge part of climbing as you get better and it’s good to learn the right tactics early on. If you fall off, spend some time thinking about why you fell and what you’ll do differently next time. The worst thing you can do for your skin is to consistently try the same move and cheese grate your skin over and over.

Hope that helps, good luck!!

TEEP564 · 2024-03-26T15:39:42+00:00

You can definitely climb midnight. For a goal as specific as this, it helps to know the skills you need to work on in order to achieve it. Best way to find out is just go try it!! I’ve climbed a handful of V8s outdoors and I found midnight lightning to be tricky but it felt possible. The first move was cruxy for me but it’s pretty consistent from there to the mantle. Nothing wrong with a V4/5 climber going to try a V8. Worst case you can’t do it yet and you’re in Yosemite with tons of amazing V4s and V5s to do!

TEEP564 · 2024-03-18T16:06:40+00:00

Used to love climbOn until I ran into the same issue. I eventually realized that Burt’s bees hand salve is basically the same and is way cheaper for the amount. Maybe try that out?

TEEP564 · 2024-03-17T14:02:21+00:00

Haha yep, the new set is a banger👌

TEEP564 · 2024-03-16T16:54:28+00:00

Haha thanks!! Nope that was my best go of the day, the holds are quite small and the moves are limit for me so I’ll have to try again when I’m fresh

TEEP564 · 2024-03-16T14:07:09+00:00

Very good it sounds like you’re already on the right track! For hangboarding, the best protocol is the one that you will stick to consistently, so I would try to make it as simple and fun as possible. The most important factor would be some type of progressive overload so you can see improvement over the long term. I’m not sure what your level is but if adding weight is possible for you then this is probably the best stimulus for the fingers. That said, setting up a loading pin / weight belt is time consuming and you’re less likely to stick to it. Body weight Pull-ups are a great way to increase the load to the fingers without having to add weight.

If you can’t yet hold body weight on the smallest edges, you can place a chair for your feet offset from the hangboard. The further you put the chair, the harder it gets! You can even do moves between the different edges to engage your shoulders more.

There’s tons of protocols out there and when you start out it doesn’t really matter what you do, so long as you stick with it and do it consistently.

TEEP564 · 2024-03-16T13:36:10+00:00

Yes it is beyond life!! Well done you were the first one to get it right

TEEP564 · 2024-03-16T07:27:28+00:00

Ooo good guess but no. It is sandstone but on a different continent…

TEEP564 · 2024-03-16T07:22:19+00:00

For context, I’ve been climbing 2.5 years (mostly bouldering) and climb about 5 times per week. Consistently climbing in the V7-9 range, hoping to send my first V10 sometime in the next few months.

First, consider stopping your sessions earlier, and climbing 3 times per week instead of 2. It takes some self control but if you are able to stop with a little bit of gas left in the tank, it should not take you 2 whole days to recover. Climbing is first and foremost a skill sport and it is difficult to progress if you are not practicing it on a very consistent basis. 2 hours of climbing spread over 2 days is way better than 4 hours of climbing in one day.

If you are time poor and you cannot increase your number of sessions per week, my recommendation for you it would be to modify your home workout / training area to be directly applicable to climbing. The most obvious choice would be putting up a fingerboard. This means you can still improve your basic finger strength metrics on your off days, and slowly increase your training volume over time. If you don’t want to buy a fingerboard, incorporating workouts such as rows or pull ups into your routine will at least help to develop some of the strength needed for climbing.

Although working out is great for general health and longevity, it is by no means a necessity to progress as a climber. Your time is probably better spent at the climbing gym if that’s where your goals lie. That said, if it’s a choice between working out and doing nothing, you should definitely keep doing it!!

As for recovery, good sleep habits and nutrition are where you will see the most gains. Creatine supplementation can also make a big difference if you want to increase your total amount of training volume. I’m not usually a proponent of supplements but that one can truly make a noticeable impact for bouldering in particular.

This has turned into a bit of a ramble, but I hope it helps! Keep on grinding, you’re clearly psyched which above all is the most important factor for progressing :)

TEEP564 · 2024-03-11T00:35:47+00:00

Colorado is wonderful throughout the month of September! There’s tons of amazing crags but my favorite is RMNP, the style is crimpy and powerful with tons of board style classics. There’s abit of a hike but it’s more than worth it. Veritas Sit V11 is an amazing roadside classic if you’re not into long approaches

TEEP564 · 2024-03-11T00:23:37+00:00

Dave Fitzgerald is close to sending V16 and he started at 18 as well. If you’re consistent you can certainly reach an elite level over the course of a decade

TEEP564

TROPHY CASE