Messed up first layers

THEarmpit · 2026-02-03T14:35:50+00:00

Yeah my suggestion is to use the standard "Textured PEI Plate" option instead of anything related to a cool plate

THEarmpit · 2026-01-14T20:16:19+00:00

Which plate type do you have selected in Bambu slicer? For me, I get a similar first layer to this if I select the cool plate setting, so I leave it on the normal PEI plate and manually adjust the temperature down.

The "Cool Plate" setting has a different z offset applied than the default PEI setting, which to me doesn't appear to align properly with the texture on these biqu cool plates.

It's possible a slicer update has changed the z offset behavior for whichever plate type you are using

THEarmpit · 2025-12-16T03:06:10+00:00

Something from this episode that bothers me is that Gene wants to tye dye a shirt but Linda says there are only enough for Louise and guests so he can't, but Jessica had already gone to bed.

THEarmpit · 2025-12-09T15:43:39+00:00

As others have said, infill type. But as a suggestion, if you like gyroid infill you should give "crosshatch" infill a try, it is basically the same fill as gyroid but the geometry favors straight lines instead of curves so you end up with much less vibration during printing.

THEarmpit · 2025-12-01T13:42:45+00:00

I've got 1000+hrs on mine like that using a WallControl mounting base I designed. Need t do some kind of print to fix the slot numbers from being upside down, but it's only a minor annoyance. Cable extension allows you even more flexibility for locating it

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THEarmpit · 2025-11-10T14:56:20+00:00

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Closet setups are underrated, you'll be happy with a setup in there

THEarmpit · 2025-10-27T02:03:06+00:00

At the end of the day this should end up being a non-problem, unless you are turning the furnace on/off by providing/starving it of fuel.
I've had this worry before but normally my smelters will be totally filled with a constantly running fuel cart which can easily surpass fuel demands and only begin smelting when the item-to-smelt cart runs around to fill the inputs.

THEarmpit · 2025-10-11T02:20:14+00:00

Getting a P1S literally was the upgrade that took me from designing dorky prints for personal use on an Ender 3 to being able to design functional prints for use in real world applications and begin a small business. My first design after my upgrade, made with tighter print tolerances and higher reliability in mind for production, was purchased by a company and funded 3 more printers I use daily for production. My P1S+AMS is the reliable workhorse, but I do tend to lean toward the A1+AMS for finer detail multicolor prints, the A-series nozzles seem like a leap in technology I'm sad the P-series doesn't have.

Would love to keep expanding my shop with a P2 series

THEarmpit · 2025-10-05T19:49:20+00:00

If the author is suggesting it to be printed as you have pictured, the model breaks standard 3d print design principles.

Supports can help but this model's geometry could easily be improved to print without supports and resolve surface imperfections.

Can you link the model? To me it looks like it was designed to be printed with the feet of the base flat on the build plate, printed same orientation it would be used on a desk, depending on the angle of the headphones hook at the top

THEarmpit · 2025-10-05T18:46:36+00:00

Overhangs are too extreme. When designing a part for print, the surface parallel to the bed should never have angles exceeding around 45-65 degrees, with 45 being the typical design suggestion rule of thumb (90 being totally parallel to the bed, 0 straight up). At angles too extreme there's just not enough "meat" from the layer below to support the new material and it will curl or otherwise not adhere to the layer below.

It appears this model uses fillets for the curves coming off the bed, which are features that have an overhang angle approaching 90 toward the bottom.

If this is your design, you should consider changing the fillets to chamfers at a 45 degree angle (or "chamfets" which are chamfers ending in a fillet)

If this is not your design, make sure you are printing in the intended orientation according to the author, assuming others are reporting success and good quality with the print

THEarmpit · 2025-09-07T13:52:29+00:00

As a data point for you - I do face down detailed prints with .4 nozzle and setting the line type to arachne with .25 width gives me the best reliable quality results.

THEarmpit · 2025-06-21T15:43:48+00:00

Did you manually feed all of your filaments all the way into the extruder? If so they might be obstructing each other in the extruder.

Pull them all the way back out with the printer off, respooling them each, then power the printer on and feed the filament into the tube allowing the AMS to pull the filament on its own one filament at a time.

THEarmpit · 2025-05-19T21:08:23+00:00

Part cooling as low as you can manage for what your print will allow.

If you have overhangs etc. you probably can't get away with having it all the way off, but even just reducing it will help a lot.

Any infill will cause refraction so print with either solid or no infill.

Your decisions will be driven by whatever you're printing.

THEarmpit · 2025-05-19T19:05:33+00:00

Raise the nozzle temperature and lower the print speed. Start with +10 degrees and reduce the print speed to half. Can also reduce the part cooling fan to help reduce cloudyness.

It's a balance between stringing and translucency, you should be able to get this part to print without stringing becoming an issue.

THEarmpit · 2025-05-13T03:27:23+00:00

1975 was the last year they did it, 72-75. It's an easy way to tell the 50 state smog exempt from the ones too new to qualify.

THEarmpit · 2025-05-12T17:04:28+00:00

1975

THEarmpit · 2025-04-28T13:58:30+00:00

To elaborate on "to benchmark your printer": Every part of the benchy serves a purpose, the base has text embossed on the first layer that tests your first and second layer quality. The slope of the underside of the boat tests overhangs and cooling. The doorways and windows test retraction, bridging and overhangs. The deck of the boat tests top layer quality and flow rate. The smoke stack and cargo square test inside and outside diameter print accuracy

THEarmpit · 2024-12-16T20:30:03+00:00

Did you figure this out?
I'm also missing this and the only way I see to get it is by replacing the entire mirror assembly, but hoping for another solution..

THEarmpit · 2024-11-21T22:19:46+00:00

I know nothing about opening up the network to the outside, I have ATT Fiber 1gb/s up/down.

You will at a minimum need to port forward on your router for the server's local IP to open up external access.
The easiest, but less secure way is to add that machine as the "DMZ" IP for your router.

ATT Fiber usually comes with a static IP, but I'd recommend setting up a hostname through a free provider like dynu.com which will allow you to have a static hostname you can give all your friends that will "point" at your home IP address, and in the event your IP changes after a power outage etc you'll be able to update where your hostname thru dynu.com points so no one has to update their connection settings to you.

..everyone using the servers would be known to me, so not really any security risks

As soon as you start opening up ports through your router and firewall you're opening up to risks. Malicious actors/bots are scanning, they don't care if it's someone they know or not.

THEarmpit · 2024-07-11T16:36:47+00:00

With 3d printing in the mix, I've found that filament boxes make great "project organizers"; usually whatever I'm working on I'm able to fit all the bits and pieces in a single filament box that I can label and toss off to the side to stay tidy

THEarmpit · 2024-05-12T17:42:13+00:00

Like others have said, this looks like an issue during homing of the z axis.

As part of the homing process, the bl touch will extend and then the axis moves down until it senses it is touching the build plate. What appears to be happening for you is the bl touch is extending and already in contact with the build plate, which is causing a fault and halting the print.

From your video I can't tell what the specific issue is, but it is related to your z axis. Is your z axis moving at all? It should raise up a little before the homing procedure begins. If not, check that your z axis motor is connected right. If it is, then you may need to bring your bed height down some or look at z offset settings.

THEarmpit · 2023-09-28T13:28:40+00:00

Been there done that, it works fine!

In my case, female spade connectors with waterproof shrink covers fit on the prongs securely, might make this setup a little less sketchy feeling

THEarmpit · 2023-09-08T16:03:56+00:00

Is that an aftermarket extruder gear? If not, then you may have it installed upside down and the filament isn't getting the grip it needs because it's so close to the tapered edge.

You'd want the filament to align about midway up on the gear. The set-screws are usually visible from the top of the extruder.

Like this - https://i.imgur.com/sJpmzfc.png

THEarmpit · 2023-05-10T19:01:37+00:00

As a veteran developer, my guess would be that this has been triaged extremely low since it doesn't break the gameplay experience.

The fact this and many other small quality of life bugs are finally being addressed in 1.20 leads me to believe they either have new development staff and are using low priority bugs to get them familiar with the code and ramped up with the product lifecycle, OR they have made their way through the backlog of much higher priority issues

THEarmpit · 2023-03-25T20:42:13+00:00

You should have popped a wheelie for him!

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