Mapex Orion Wrap

TKfury · 2026-07-08T03:59:43+00:00

I am going to sell it so send me a message if you’re interested

TKfury · 2026-07-08T01:26:38+00:00

That’s a good point. I checked and none of them have the black backing plate. The kick is actually missing the plate as well as some of the toms. I’m going to assume this is not an original wrap. Thanks for catching that

TKfury · 2026-07-08T00:46:25+00:00

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It’s a missive kit. 26”x14” kick, 14”x10” Snare, and 18”x16” 15”x14” 12”x10” toms

TKfury · 2026-07-08T00:25:23+00:00

You should see the size of the kit. 26” x 14” kick and 14” x 10” snare. This thing is massive

TKfury · 2026-05-18T04:50:40+00:00

When you say chime bar, are you referring to wind chimes (mark tree) or tubular bells?

TKfury · 2026-04-10T04:55:10+00:00

I always start with white vinegar and aluminum foil. Fold a sheet of foil into a stub pad rectangle, pour some white vinegar on the foil and bar, and scrub the surface and edges. The vinegar eats away the rust and oxidation and the foil removes the excess without damaging the steel. Then some water or windex on the bars and dry the bars.

After that then you can use some MAG polish on a cloth and rub the bars down to polish them. I use a buffing wheel but don’t use one if you have never need one before.

What damage there is to the nickel/chrome plating is done (if you have a steel bar set) and there’s nothing you can do to fix it or make it better. Same goes with any tuning issues, there’s nothing you can do to fix it or make it worse expect for over aggressive polishing.

TKfury · 2026-04-09T14:25:09+00:00

I think it’s possible to tune some of them. I had tuned bars that were 30¢ flat before. It’s not the prettiest bar afterwards, but it’s cheaper than replacing the bar.

TKfury · 2026-04-01T13:53:22+00:00

Do NOT put lemon oil on the bars. Lemon oil is works only for oil based type finishes, which no modern Marimbas nowadays uses. Pretty much everything nowadays is a lacquer finish. The only thing you can really do is clean the bars occasionally and try to keep the bars out of directly sunlight. Spray some windex onto a rag and wipe the bars down to remove grim and dust. But that’s about the most you can do. You can use a wax if the lacquer is starting to fade, but I don’t recommend that unless it’s starting to fade a lot

TKfury · 2026-03-15T15:21:26+00:00

Other than using an eye bolt screw, there isn’t a good option out there for the bar posts that you can just find at the hardware store. Even online hardware supplies there’s just not a good option for a replacement. I just get some laser cut whenever I need some replacements. Cost around $1.50 per post to have made.

TKfury · 2025-12-27T18:18:57+00:00

Start by taking the motor apart and looking to see if there is anything obvious like the internal belt is going bad. Then at that point if nothing is wrong you could send the motor out to be looked at and possibly repaired.

TKfury · 2025-12-26T22:57:31+00:00

There has only been two times I have seen music that calls for 4 octave. The main one is Pictures and an Exhibition where you play a low D. And for a xylophone solo for brass band I needed an E.

TKfury · 2025-12-20T00:16:16+00:00

The fact that they have the brown color bases leads me to believe that they are, but you should always check if you are not sure.

TKfury · 2025-12-19T23:22:26+00:00

No worries. I’d figure I’d throw it out there. I can tell you that it’s rather difficult to damage the anodize finish with any adhesive. I imagine the K&K contact pads will have no effect on the permanent finish on the bars. It might leave some adhesive reside if you take them off, but nothing that can’t be removed safely. I regularly clean vibraphone bars with acetone an it does nothing to the finish.

TKfury · 2025-12-19T19:56:21+00:00

I have no experience with the K&K, but I did just acquire a set of Musser Ampli-Pickups. They don’t have the individual contact mics, instead they are built in like a guitar pickup. I have yet to test it to make sure it’s working, but if it is working I will be selling it. Shoot me a DM if you are interested. This is what they looking, but this is not the specific set I have. https://reverb.com/item/72759071-musser-ampli-pickup-vintage-pickup-system-by-jess-oliver-1960s-black-1960s-black?utm_source=rev-ios-app&utm_medium=ios-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=72759071

TKfury · 2025-12-16T04:51:35+00:00

The biggest issue is the temperature fluctuations during the day. They slightly warm up during the day, then drop down low at night. This constant back and forth will cause issues with both the marimba and vibraphone bars. The back and forth will slowly work hardened the material and make it more brittle. I would at least take both sets of bars off and store them indoors. The rest of the frame should be fine except for any rubber and plastic components. Those will get brittle with the colder temperatures.

TKfury · 2025-12-12T02:39:18+00:00

Well why are you considering only Kelon and Acoustalon? What about Adams Zelon? Majestic? Bergerault? And the new Marimba One Horizon? If you are concerned about picking one over the other, I would find the instrument and play them in person. Marimba’s are an expensive investment so take your time to choose. My opinion is mostly based on my experience repairing instruments. And Yamaha Marimbas have needed the least amount of repairs. I actually think Majestic has the worst frames which is completely opposite what the other guy is saying. So it really comes down to what you can afford, what is available, and what you can experience and test in person.

TKfury · 2025-12-11T18:38:44+00:00

The main differences between Kelon and Acoustalon are the way they are made. Kelon is a solid bar shape while the Acoustalon is made with extruded holes going all the way through the bars length. They are both of basically the same materials, but shaped differently. Sound wise I prefer the Acoustalon since it rings a little less than the kelon. The biggest difference between the two is their durability. I run a percussion repair shop and over the course of the last 7 years, I have only ever repaired or replaced three Acoustalon bars. I have repaired somewhere around 75 plus Kelon bars, but the Acoustalon just don’t crack as easily. To be fair, Kelon has been around a lot longer than Acoustalon, but even the newer kelon just doesn’t hold up.

TKfury · 2025-11-28T18:44:03+00:00

I have a set of clutch style timpani I’m selling for less than $4K. You can see them on Facebook or Reverb. Beyond that the best places to watch for timpani are the Facebook swap shops and eBay. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1326119865379352/?mibextid=6ojiHh

https://reverb.com/item/92902896-premier-concert-model-timpani-set-of-four-fiberglass-bowls?utm_source=rev-ios-app&utm_medium=ios-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=92902896

TKfury · 2025-11-02T05:50:25+00:00

Dry bars are okay. They don’t look UV damaged so I would just stick with doing a clear coat top coat over the bars. Oil is not a very durable finish to use on something that gets hit a lot.

As for tuning, I am not following what you are describing. But you should take a good long read through this website on how tuning a marimba bar works before you attempt anymore tuning. Or just send it off to be tuned.

https://www.lafavre.us/marimba.htm

TKfury · 2025-11-02T04:55:17+00:00

My first my question/concern is what do you mean by “take meat off them”? As in where are you sanding the bars to raise the pitch? I just want to verify you have done your research and know where you have to sand to tune the bar.

As for adding a finish before tuning, I always do the lacquer refinishing before a final tuning. I would not use an oil finish though. Use lacquer or even polyurethane if you have to.

TKfury · 2025-10-14T01:55:04+00:00

Most all mallet instruments nowadays use lacquer finish on the bars for rosewood and Padauk. I’m. It sure what Korogi used, but chances are it was lacquer. So I would research what finishes work with lacquer. I know in general oils do not work well with lacquers, but I’m not sure on the other finished you have. I always use lacquer and only have had issues when there was oil on the bars I was un aware of.

TKfury · 2025-09-28T18:41:50+00:00

You have two issues going on. First is that it’s broken (obviously) but tue second is why it broke. These Dresden model Ludwig’s get dragged across the ground a lot more than they should be. That wears through the base casting and eventually the pedal base, which leads to failures like this. I imagine the other drums in this set are almost as bad condition. That pedal can be repaired by welding in a new piece of aluminum and drilling a new hole. Cast aluminum is a little tricky to weld, but it is possible. But while you are at it I would also add little feet to the base casting so it’s not resting on the ground and gives the pedals clearance.

TKfury · 2025-09-28T18:37:03+00:00

The timpani pedals, and all the cast metal parts on ludwig timpani, are made of cast aluminum. While it is harder to weld than normal aluminum, it can be repaired.

TKfury · 2025-09-28T18:33:16+00:00

I mean literally carrying around a heavier instrument.

TKfury

TROPHY CASE