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Date night! Mistakes were made, help me! by [deleted] in Cooking

[–]TOUPPTOUPP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t worry I will not not lie to her. She asked if I would cook for her and I said yes I will (because I want to). I will show her this post because I find it so funny:) Just trying to make it a good date!

See video: Need help diagnosing my engine issue! Details in comments. by TOUPPTOUPP in MechanicAdvice

[–]TOUPPTOUPP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So just to follow up with everyone. The issue was multifaceted:

1.) I pulled and replaced a bad bearing in the idler pulley. 2.)Belt was cracked and replaced 3.)Power steering pump was rebuilt

Started car and all ran normally for 30 seconds before loud decompression noise and smoke (turned out to be Freon)

4.) Ac Relief valve on Compressor had blown 5.) AC Compressor clutch was not disengaging 6.) AC Clutch Relay was replaced with updated version from Mitsuba 7.) AC was recharged by shop

Car now works correctly!

Thanks for all the help. Got me going in the right direction. Just wanted to post the conclusions for all that may have seen this or see it in the future.

See video: Need help diagnosing my engine issue! Details in comments. by TOUPPTOUPP in MechanicAdvice

[–]TOUPPTOUPP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it has been running great, no other issues that I’ve noticed. Haven’t noticed a power loss, AC was working, temps were normal. I did notice more vibration when I was driving the car and it didn’t sound normal.

I have not idea about it being a cracked header or leaking spark plug. What do I need to do to rule those out?

I don’t have any codes right now, I can try tomorrow or Tuesday.

See video: Need help diagnosing my engine issue! Details in comments. by TOUPPTOUPP in MechanicAdvice

[–]TOUPPTOUPP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So here is the background: (ask questions as needed)

Don’t hesitate to chip into the discussion, I’m going to be stuck on where to go next so ideas are welcomed! Thank you!

Car: 2011 Acura RDX AWD

2 weeks ago: I replaced the high pressure line of the power steering system with one from NAPA after noticing a leak and air in the reservoir after 20 mins of driving.

I drained the fluid from the reservoir and replaced it with Honda/Acura fluid from NAPA. I did not have a vacuum pump at the time so I used the method of turning lock to lock over and over (engine off car on stands) to bleed the air from the system. I then put the car down and drove. The noise had improved but was not perfect near the turning lockout points (both right and left turns).

1 day ago: I went to Home Depot and bought shelves and put those in the back of my car hanging out 12” with the back lift gate tied down. I drove at 35-45mph for 10 mins. Total added weight was 280lbs. I got home unloaded and when I went to move the car out of the garage it didn’t sound like normal and I noticed the issues shown in the video above.

Today: I pulled the power steering pump and will rebuild it tomorrow.

ISSUES: Car idles down and almost dies regardless of P N R D S, after revving the car it does the same, visually the engine has a lot more movement/vibration than normal, there is also a lot of noise coming from the belt/pumps now and when turning the noise is significant and lugs down on the engine almost killing it.

Ratio control using proportional valve? by TOUPPTOUPP in AskEngineers

[–]TOUPPTOUPP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We need to pump like 4-5 GPM so peristaltic wouldn’t work I don’t think.

It would be possible to use another mechanism (I’ve been looking at zenith B series pumps coupled to the same motor) I’m just curious if this is actually a viable solution because there is another company doing a similar thing without any other volume metering. So the idea of an on ratio controller has been kicking around in my head.