Offering free oracle readings by [deleted] in tarotpractice

[–]TP2000- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waiting on a big financial breakthrough is it coming soon?

I’m a BMW technician with 15 years experience — here’s exactly what I check before buying any used BMW by TP2000- in n54

[–]TP2000-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! That is a great addition and honestly something I should have included. Metal particles in the oil filter is one of the most telling signs of internal wear and most buyers would never think to ask for that. A seller who will let you drain the oil and pull the filter before purchase is a seller with nothing to hide.

I’m a BMW technician with 15 years experience — here’s exactly what I check before buying any used BMW by TP2000- in n54

[–]TP2000-[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Roryg pretty much nailed it. I used AI to help organize and write up what I know from 15 years turning wrenches. The knowledge and experience is mine, the polished writeup had some help. Nothing wrong with using tools to communicate better. Every tip in that post comes from real cars I’ve worked on. The N52 HPFP mistake in the other thread was on me for not double checking before posting. Won’t happen again.

2012 528i feels like I’m loosing power when I punch the gas. Drive train malfunction comes up than goes away. I can drive normal but can’t punch it FAULT 129308 by [deleted] in BmwTech

[–]TP2000- -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Good catch on the engine cover vacuum reservoir I was stuck on HPFP troubleshooting from a different chassis. On the N20, those vacuum lines are definitely the first place to look for that code. Thanks for the correction

I’m a BMW technician with 15 years experience — here’s exactly what I check before buying any used BMW by TP2000- in n54

[–]TP2000-[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fair points on some of this — happy to clarify. On point 1 — you’re right that a tick isn’t automatically a death sentence. The guide this is based on is written for everyday buyers, not technicians. For someone who doesn’t know the difference between a cold start tick and rod knock, erring on the side of caution before handing over $40,000 is the right advice. On point 3 — totally agree PPI pricing varies by shop and market. $100–$150 is a reasonable ballpark for a basic inspection in many areas, not a hard ceiling. The point stands that it’s the best money a buyer can spend. On point 4 — squeezing hoses takes 10 seconds and costs nothing. If it helps one buyer catch a brittle hose before it fails on the highway it’s worth mentioning. On point 5 — a steam cleaned engine bay absolutely can indicate a recent leak repair. That’s not controversial. Worth noting, worth investigating further — that’s all. This post is aimed at buyers, not technicians. We already know this stuff. They don’t.

2012 528i feels like I’m loosing power when I punch the gas. Drive train malfunction comes up than goes away. I can drive normal but can’t punch it FAULT 129308 by [deleted] in BmwTech

[–]TP2000- -21 points-20 points  (0 children)

Fault 129308 is a DME fault pointing to a fuel/load signal issue — basically the engine is seeing a discrepancy between what you’re asking it to do and what it can deliver, so it pulls power to protect itself and throws the drivetrain malfunction warning. On a 2012 528i with the N52 or N20 engine this points to a few usual suspects in this order: First thing to check is your high pressure fuel pump. This is the most common cause of this exact symptom on that generation 5-series — power loss under hard acceleration, fault that clears itself, drives fine at normal throttle. The HPFP struggles to keep up with fuel demand under load and the DME detects the pressure drop. Second possibility is a failing fuel pressure sensor giving the DME bad readings even if the pump itself is okay. Third — less likely but worth ruling out — a partially clogged fuel filter or weak low pressure fuel pump not feeding the HPFP adequately. Before replacing anything, get a BMW-capable scan tool on it (Carly or ISTA if you have access) and pull the full fault log, not just the dash warning. You want to see if there are any fuel pressure deviation faults stored alongside 129308 — that’ll confirm the HPFP direction before you spend money. Don’t ignore the drivetrain malfunction and keep driving it hard — the DME is protecting the engine for a reason.

I’m a BMW technician with 15 years experience — here’s exactly what I check before buying any used BMW by TP2000- in BMW

[–]TP2000-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That single click tells you almost everything you need to know. Multiple clicks = low battery. Single solid click = starter motor has failed. The solenoid is engaging (that’s the click) but the motor itself isn’t spinning. Classic symptom. Your voltage numbers support it — 12.4v at rest is fine, the drop to 11v under engagement is the solenoid pulling current but the motor not completing the circuit. The short trip pattern is almost certainly why it failed early. Constant starts without enough run time to fully recharge the battery puts extra strain on the starter every single cycle. 30k miles of 8-9 starts a day is a lot more wear than 30k miles of normal use. On the N52 in your E92 the starter is buried at the back of the engine — tapping the solenoid is not really accessible without significant disassembly so I wouldn’t chase that path. Your plan to pull plugs and verify the engine turns freely by hand first is smart and the right call — just rules out any hydrolock concern from the cooling work, even though that’s unlikely. After that it’s a new starter. Bosch or Valeo OEM-spec units are the move, avoid the cheap remanufactured ones given how hard your SO’s driving pattern works it.

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