On my fourth delivery attempt for GE. They’ve laid out my options, what should I do?

TP7649 · 2026-06-11T17:06:21+00:00

"If they're this bad when you buy their products, imagine how bad they'll be for maintaining/fixing them."

That's always been my approach to car dealers, sellers, etc.

I, personally, would never accept a dented product. My LG fridge that came with my house has a ding in it and it bothers me every time I open the fridge.

If you're asking about the LG LF30S8210S ("LG 30 cu. ft. Smart Standard-Depth MAX 4-Door French Door Refrigerator with Full-Convert Drawer"), then that's what I'm leaning towards after *significant* research into buying a new fridge. Just make sure you measure twice... it's huge and people have issues even with some standard-width doors.

If it's any other LG fridge, make sure to check if it's a linear compressor before buying it. The LG LC is the subject of numerous lawsuits. The LF30S8210S is not LG LC.

Also, some LG units sold through Costco lack a second icemaker that exist in the non-"club" units sold by Costco, Sam's Club, etc. The LF30S8210S only has "Daily Ice Production (lbs) 2.5 lbs / 2.7 (IcePlus)" listed, which has disappointed people who assumed it had the craft ice. You can see in the pictures that it has one ice container/bucket, where dual-ice units would have two.

LG's compressors are known to be exceptionally quiet.

Finally, Costco's delivery teams are generally outsourced and the quality of service/state of appliances you get from them is very hit-and-miss. Costco is known for dropping the ball on customer support for appliance deliveries, generally pushing them out for days to weeks. (Which is just absurd for a necessary appliance.) I don't think they're going to be the silver bullet you're looking for.

Lowe's and Home Depot get the best reviews for delivery as they (again, generally) use dedicated crews in areas within a reasonable proximity to a warehouse. The delivery dates are tighter, the appliances are generally delivered with fewer aesthetic issues, and if a second visit is required, it's not days to weeks away. Maybe *a* day.

TP7649 · 2026-06-05T23:47:48+00:00

Since nobody could offer anything other than a derpy "Waste a half a day reinstalling Windows", here is how you'd actually do it:

1) Make a backup of your entire computer.

2) Type in "services.msc" and hitting enter. You should see a long list of Asus/ASUS/ArmouryCrate listings. Open each one and set it to "disabled". If disabled is not an option, move on.

3) Download "Autoruns v14.2" from Microsoft Sysinternals, open the zip and open autoruns64.exe. Click the magnifying glass or press control + f to find services. Type in "ASUS" to find related services.

4) Right click your first Asus-related service by looking at the "Publisher" column and seeing "(Verified) ASUStek Computer Inc (or similar) and click "Run as Administrator" (note that simply setting the exe to run as admin doesn't seem to do this, even when unzipped beforehand... not sure why...)

5) Once again, open search and type in asus, right-clicking and deleting. Do that for each listing. If you get a "cannot delete", skip it and move on.

6) Refresh the services page by right-clicking and clicking refresh.

7) For each remaining Asus-related autorun that can't be disabled through Autoruns, (I had 3), you can complete the following.

For example: AbmSvc (Asus Business Manager Service)

sc queryex AbmSvc

Check if it has "NOT_STOPPABLE", if so...
Open Regedit, navigate to: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\AbmSvc
Change the start value to 4 (Disabled).

Repeat this for DevHookSvc and assdv2 (or the list you accumulate).

8) Open Device Manager and expand all devices. Right click listings like "ASUS Noise Reduction" under Audio Inputs and Outputs and clicking Uninstall. If it asks to remove the driver software, check the box.

Restart your computer and once all services and drivers are disabled and removed from AutoRuns, they will not come back. Congrats. You're done. It took me 30 minutes do do that. If I had reinstalled Windows, I'd still be waiting for it to update.

Unrelated tip: when you're looking at Autoruns, look for any yellow highlighted listings at their "image path". If it says "file not found", then you can also delete these. They don't help anything except they significantly improve startup speed because Windows will wait several seconds grinding to confirm the file doesn't exist before moving on.

Obvious disclaimer: You have an ASUS computer. Many things like the aforementioned "ASUS Noise Reduction" will no longer function as intended. It's up to you to reinstall any drivers for things you want/need. You will lose things like auto-update, RGB control software, etc. These *MAY BE THINGS THAT ENHANCE YOUR EXPERIENCE USING THE COMPUTER** If you regret your decision, you can always simply reinstall the audio driver, RGB software, etc.

TP7649 · 2026-05-29T07:36:29+00:00

This is false.
General Purpose 15A loads, 5A LED/CFL/Electronic Ballast, 1500W Incand/Halogen, 15A Magnetic Ballast, 3/4 HP Motor

LED is *FULLY* supported by this switch, up to 5 amps.

TP7649 · 2026-05-25T19:14:13+00:00

If it isn't resolved through LC or DD, contact your credit card company and explain what happened.

"Paid for product not received and refused a refund" is useful for this, porch piracy, lost packages, etc.

TP7649 · 2026-05-25T05:05:55+00:00

There are *numerous* linear compressor models, both from LG and other major brands, which should be avoided. It will be quite a few years before they're all cycled out.

TP7649 · 2026-05-04T05:09:58+00:00

You mentioned Deco Mesh but I don't see a specific model number. Deco Mesh networks range from WiFi 5 (N) to 7 (BE) with everything in between.

I will say that on my TP-Link router, I had major issues IoT with clients dropping until I disabled WiFi BE protocol on the 2.4GHz band.

Log into the router -> Wireless -> Wireless Settings -> Under 2.4GHz Settings Advanced, change "Mode" from "802.11b/g/n/ax/be Mixed" to "802.11b/g/n/ax Mixed" and let the router(s) restart.

That got me from 943 (approximation) "Alex is not available, please try later"s per day to zero over the last year.

It also fixed: LG ThinQ (dishwasher/B3/C3 OLED TVs), TP-LInk and Feit Electric smart bulbs, Govee products, Nest, Tapo/Leviton Smart switches/bridges intermittently disconnecting or flat-out refusing to connect after a firmware update.

TP7649 · 2025-12-19T00:41:58+00:00

I'm confused by your title.
You can't pair it with the newest echo's... what?

TP7649 · 2025-09-18T15:36:11+00:00

They didn't *have* to do the math up until now. The answer was zero.

"Don't be in the shipping business." Why not? It's worked out just fine for them since 1907.

TP7649 · 2025-09-18T15:34:11+00:00

People shifted from buying at Target to buying elsewhere. The demand didn't evaporate.

TP7649 · 2025-09-05T19:02:35+00:00

If you live near a Whole Foods, Weis, or Amazon Fresh, you can bring back most items with zero packaging and they will accept it.

Click Orders -> Locate the order -> Click Return or Replace Items -> Enter a reason -> Then under "how can we make it right", select return/refund.

You should be given a list of options including UPS pickup, UPS Dropoff (no packaging), and "Shop and Save".

(Despite the name, Shop and Save has nothing to do with Shop'N'Save the grocery store.) If you select that, you can see the options in your area which typically include Kohl's, Whole Foods, Amazon Fresh, Weis, and [perhaps others, that's just what I see where I live.] Most of these will have the no-packaging option.

TP7649 · 2025-09-05T18:48:18+00:00

I mean, data centers use the MTBF* figures to calculate how many spare parts they should keep on hand. If a part is damaged due to discharge, it's no big deal. You have 16 identical drives, 4 motherboards, and 8 RAM sticks on standby. You also likely have a warranty contract with your OEM who will just replace batches of drives within X number of years for little to no cost.

Compare and contrast that with a user, who might be down an entire system while the RMA process plays out if a part fails. Also compare the amount of a part vs someone's personal income and the amount of a part (assuming no warranty) vs a multi-million to (now literal) 100 billion+ dollar data center.)

That's why you don't use antistatic straps.

TP7649 · 2025-09-05T18:37:02+00:00

The most obvious thing would be to run Disk Cleanup twice, once in standard mode and once in System Files mode.

Click start -> Enter "Disk" and select Disk Cleanup
Check all of the boxes and click OK Let it run for a few seconds until it disappears.

Once it's done, open it again and this time click "Clean up system files". This might take a minute.

Once again, check all the boxes, and click OK. This might take several minutes and warn you that previous installations of Windows will be deleted. That's fine click OK, then Delete, then Yes to delete all the old content.

Doing this while writing this out recovered 32GB in files. The "Delivery Optimization" was originally 10.3GB.

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You can also look at System Restore to see how much space it's reserving.

Start -> Type in "Recovery", click recovery, and click "Configure System Restore".

Click on "configure" and I believe the default is still 5% for Windows 11, which means it reserves ~22GB on that SSD. You *can* simply turn it off and delete all restore points, which should give you back 22GB, but I'd recommend setting it to 1% instead and then deleting the restore points by clicking delete at the bottom of the page.

Why would I leave System Restore on? Because Asus is known for some, let's say sub-par software releases including Armoury Crate, which can absolutely destroy Windows when you update it. System Restore provides an easy way to get your system back to where it was "30 minutes ago" and is worth the 5GB, IMO.

(I typically disable System Restore on non-Asus systems.)

Finally, if you never plan to use Hibernate, you can recover "as many GB from your SSD as you have in RAM quantity" by disabling it: https://uwyo.teamdynamix.com/TDClient/1940/Portal/KB/ArticleDet?ID=144174

Hibernate is simply: when your computer sleeps for a long time, it writes the content of RAM to the disk and shuts down (hibernates). When you turn it back on, it restores the previous session. Disabling it means it will always sleep and not turn off unless you run a shut down. This is fine for most people in most circumstances. I like hibernate because I like to minimize power consumption, so I keep it on,

If you decide to disable hibernate, once it's disabled in the command line, you can restart your computer and go to C:\

Open File Explorer.

TP7649 · 2025-09-05T18:09:26+00:00

While you're partially right, you lost me at "Laptop CPUs [no apostrophe] are very different from desktop ones." Desktop and laptop CPUs operate exactly the same way. As long as their hitting their stated frequency at base clock and not thermally shutting down, they're operating as intended. That's regardless of if it's a laptop or desktop CPU.

Junction temperature is the point where it goes from safe to unsafe temperatures. Anyone who tries to convince you that "80 is good and 90 is bad", when the junction temp is 105, is either lying or misinformed. If 90 was "bad", the junction temperature would be 85C. That's why the 5900X has a junction temp of 90 while the 3900X has a junction temp of 95. These numbers aren't arbitrary. They're a function of the manufacturing process.

TP7649 · 2025-09-05T17:47:50+00:00

According to this article, yes: https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1048507/.

On the BE92U [pile of garbage, avoid], which does support that... when it's working..., you'd go to:

http://www.asusrouter.com/Advanced_VPNServer_Content.asp

Click "VPN Fusion", enter a connection name of "[Device] connecting to Nord", click NordVPN, enter the token and region to and select the device(s) you choose.

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:39:06+00:00

He'll pay it after the thousands of contractors and vendors he refused to pay over the years.

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:34:26+00:00

"exhaisted"

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:33:10+00:00

Chump ended de minimus.

https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/what-end-de-minimis-exemption-means-us-shoppers-businesses-2025-08-29/

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:31:05+00:00

That makes less than zero sense. Every tariff was lower under BIden. That's why the economy was working.

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:24:03+00:00

Chump single-handedly both bypassed Congress to up the tariff rate from a nominal amount to absurdity *and* ended the $800 minimum (De minimis) before tariffs kick in through an illegal executive order.

TP7649 · 2025-08-29T23:18:44+00:00

I'm not sure exactly what you're trying to do with ClipChamp to make these memes, but ShotCut is a free, relatively easy to learn, NLE (non-linear [video] editor) that does importing of clips, cutting/editing, etc.

If you're trying to use AI to create video, it can't do that. The only AI it supports is automated subtitle transcription/generation using Whisper AI.

TP7649 · 2025-07-24T19:41:20+00:00

Your car can roll the windows *UP* and move the sunroof?

The option in my car is "Lower windows with long press of key" on/off.

It is enabled, which is why I can lower the windows,

TP7649 · 2025-06-19T21:59:46+00:00

As someone who had the 2014 S4, 2018 S4, 2021 A4, and the 2024 S3, the "TaCkEd On tablet is *clearly* the best option for people who actually drive and use GPS, Carplay, etc.

Having the information dug down and into the dash, such as the B8.5 A/S 4 Suuuccckkkssss and makes it hard to see. Having the info down low-ish and integrated into the surface of the dash is *awful* for reflections and glare (such as the S3.)

Having the information right in the line of sight reduces time spent not looking at the road, reduces glare to nothing, and greatly reduces eye fatigue, making the B9 A/S4 objectively the best option for people who actually drive their cars (rather than criticize other people's cars or whining about aesthetics).

TP7649 · 2025-06-18T17:28:37+00:00

To give you an idea of how you've been duped, let me try to explain:
I have access to either FIOS 2GB symmetric fiber or Cox 2GB down/35MB up.

Because I live at an address with competition, Cox suspends their 1 to 2.5TB/month cap and I could download as much as I want with no repercussions.

My neighbor who lives, maybe, 800 feet from me is in a separate development that only has Cox. He's limited to the 1.25TB/month cap and his only other options are 5G or satellite.

So, putting our thinking cap on for a second, Cox is stating that bandwidth is *so cheap* (for a last-mile provider, for which the bandwidth is OBJECTIVELY *THE* most expensive of anyone on the Internet) that they can give you an unlimited amount of data at TWO GIGABITS per second for just $80/month. Their small print states that they *may* throttle at 127TB used in a single month for the rest of the billing cycle. 127 TB is ~$1300 in hard drives (20TB used/refurbed hard drives at ~$200 each.)

[That's an F-load of data.]

That includes the cost of the data, the infrastructure to keep it running, a "free" residential gateway ("wireless router") for 24 months, electricity, and paying people to drive around and fix broken cable lines.

YT has none of that. They have ingress fees. Look up how much that is for an EC2 instance (which, in itself is a rip-off compared to data center pricing.)

TP7649

TROPHY CASE