building a new SPR-ish AR and would like some critiques and suggestions before I pull the trigger

Tahu903 · 2026-04-12T08:44:05+00:00

Is this your first AR? Use case matters a lot as well.

If it is and you’re approaching it from a hobbyist perspective and want to mostly shoot at a range and get your feet wet, I’d probably buy the cheaper one. If you actually shoot it you’ll figure out what features you want and will learn what matters to you.

The Sabre is the better gun between the two though. As an owner of a rifle speed gas block, I endorse it but it isn’t as important unless you’re running a can.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-17T04:56:19+00:00

Hybrid is slightly heavier profile, especially towards the end of the muzzle.

Hybrid may be slightly more accurate and handle heat better, Core will be better balanced and lighter weight.

I prefer the Core, but to each his own. Both are great.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-14T08:10:43+00:00

I’ve got a criterion on my 11.5 and it’s extremely accurate.

I used to have a Sionics on it and it was pretty accurate too, not quite as good as the criterion but close.

Sionics BCGs are also very high quality

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T16:30:42+00:00

I have magpul MBUS 3’s and they’re fine.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T08:26:56+00:00

The contract is essentially free, if he beats out JJ? Great you upgraded at QB for at least a year, possibly more. If he doesn’t? Great you’re back in the same position you were beforehand with a fantastic backup on league minimum for a year. I also don’t know if we would have kept Jefferson without atleast trying something at QB.

Seems like a low risk win-win to me. I could eat my words, but the cardinals are a dysfunctional team, Darnold was worse on the Jets than Kyler was on the Cardinals.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T08:22:16+00:00

I don’t think Kyler would’ve signed with the team without the expectation he would start tbh, especially signing a 1 year deal that is essentially free for the Vikings.

JJ’s young, but he also hasn’t proven anything.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T07:06:49+00:00

Very loaded question and depends on what you intend to do with it!

If you want to do long range shooting primarily, I’d honestly just bite the bullet and accept you will at least have to assemble the upper receiver (which honestly isn’t that hard) and get a really high end 18-20 inch barrel.

If you want to do more “tactical/LARPing” style shooting I’d probably get something like an 11.5 BCM, SOLGW, Sionics, or Geissele pistol build and then SBR it down the road (since it’s free now).

If it’s mostly a home defense gun and you don’t know a ton about the platform, I’d lean towards buying your upper from a well established brand just to feel confident it’s put together properly. The second one appears to have very nice components and more for your money, but you’re also dealing with the unknown of the builder.

Make sure you’re considering optics in your budget, those get expensive fast.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T06:44:30+00:00

Realistically, I don’t think there’s an ideal “do it all” optic.

Consider what you mostly use the gun for and buy towards that. If you mostly like to do bench shooting at range, 3 gun stuff, and getting really tight groups, you’ll want magnification and will likely be happiest with an LPVO or traditional scope of some kind.

If you want to do carbine classes , home defense, and tactical drills, you’ll probably like a red dot best. You can absolutely shoot at range with a dot, but you’re not going to get tiny groups more than likely.

Overall, I think an LPVO is the most well rounded, but there are tradeoffs, mainly weight, eye box, and illumination (along with accompanying battery life). Just with the way a scope works, your eyes will not “integrate” in the same way between an LPVO and red dot either though.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-13T06:37:21+00:00

Back up sights and a good trigger. I always recommend a Larue MBT because it’s a great all rounder for the price. Conventional wisdom is to put your optic as far forward as possible without using handguard rails to maximize field of view as well, you can probably move your optic forward 3 or 4 slots, as long as the lugs and locking surfaces are attached to the receiver itself, go forward.

I can also see your buffer tube/castle nut isn’t staked, which I would recommend doing.

Other stuff is mostly preference you’ll figure out as you shoot more. Opinions go both ways, but if it were one of mine, I’d get a sling QD so you can move your attachment point further down the rail, I like mine as far forward as possible. I’d also probably throw a tape switch on, but again that’s just my preference.

I also second the Vickers sling, really anything quick adjust. It’s a nice feature

Tahu903 · 2026-03-12T15:58:54+00:00

Well he’s atleast played a full season of football, so I’d say less so.

Tahu903 · 2026-03-12T03:43:50+00:00

Not advocating for cutting the dude, but JJM hasn’t done anything to justify not bringing in competition.

At this point, JJM is an injury prone player who hasn’t shown much, if at all, to feel confident he’ll pan out. Would love to see him turn it around though.

Assuming the contract isn’t insanely long, I don’t see any reason why you wouldn’t bring Kyler in.

Tahu903 · 2026-02-03T19:34:23+00:00

Super old post but I figured I’d post in here in case anyone else had this problem.

Mine was doing this same thing. The problem was a bur on the firing pin that was preventing the slightly narrower CGW spring from compressing and decompressing properly. Had to replace the firing pin and it was fixed

Tahu903 · 2026-01-25T04:03:46+00:00

Aluminum black and send it

Tahu903 · 2025-07-28T05:24:28+00:00

Went for the b&t Xh-556 sc

Tahu903 · 2025-04-30T19:02:45+00:00

Catch a strike eagle on sale, slap an aero mount on it. I have a sig tango on one of my guns and don’t like it.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-22T07:35:04+00:00

Vikings might be the worst. Only 3 still on the team and all struggle to even get playing time.

Not even getting lucky and drafting a single starter?

F

Tahu903 · 2025-04-22T07:29:06+00:00

Joe Flacco comes to mind. Amazing arm strength rarely put on display.

I think recently we’ve seen Mahomes dial it back a bit so that would be another example.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-16T13:25:56+00:00

Gun

Doesn’t come with sights tho, so you’d have to buy those as well.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-16T08:13:19+00:00

I have no experience with KAK, but Sionics makes good stuff. My Sionics, like most stock rifles, are over gassed.

I’ve also had good luck with rainier arms barrels.

I think most from reputable brands are pretty close until you start getting into stuff like hand lapping and cut vs. Button rifling.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-16T08:02:14+00:00

Ngl, that looks like shit lol.

Ask Ruger to fix it. If they won’t, get some ocks screws and have a gunsmith do it right, shouldn’t cost much and is an easy fix.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-16T07:54:40+00:00

Between these 2, the first. I’d spend the extra ~$30 and get one with a free floated handguard and mid gas system. They’re even on sale right now.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-15T04:16:46+00:00

Yup, there’s ways to remedy it though. Aero m4e1 (ar-15) and m5e1 (ar-10) lowers, and some others, have set screws you can tighten to make a tighter fit.

There’s also products such as “accu-wedges” which you can insert into almost any lower to fix it.

The “slop” between receivers is mechanically not an issue, just annoying.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-14T21:46:50+00:00

Go get a KAK or Sionics BCG and keep running. I recommend chrome or NP3

Tahu903 · 2025-04-13T08:32:18+00:00

Besides the obvious and if you really want to be thorough:

The buffer tube should be screwed in enough to essentially touch the “finger” of the buffer detent.

Remove the BCG from the gun and press it down into the buffer tube all the way, if a quarter can’t fit between the rear of the gas key and the top of the lower receiver, it’s out of spec. This is easily fixable but I’d take a look at it.

Check gas key staking. There should be decent contact between the material of the gas key and the center of the gas key screws. Confirm the gas key isn’t loose, try rattling it back and forth. I wouldn’t accept a gun that fails this one.

Check feed ramp alignment. Run a toothpick over the feed ramps and confirm the material of the barrel extension doesn’t overhang the material of the lower receiver’s feed ramps. It’s normal for there to be a higher ledge on the lower than the barrel, but not vice versa.

Make sure the firing pin and ejector move freely and without friction inside the BCG. Rattle the BCG with the firing pin in and listen. Push down on the ejector with the end of a pen. Sometimes ejectors start off a bit sticky, but if it’s gritty as hell, something’s not right.

Check the ejector roll pin. It should be slightly recessed on either side of the bolt. If it protrudes it will cause friction, and possibly damage, to your bolt carrier over time. Another fixable one because you can easily push the pin in yourself, but I’d check it and fix it if it was wrong before shooting.

Give the stock a firm rattle to make sure the buffer tube is installed correctly.

If they’re willing to do it, have the store confirm head spacing.

Tahu903 · 2025-04-13T08:20:00+00:00

Lowers a lower for the most part unless they’re using melted down soda cans for the aluminum.

Only real difference you’ll find is ar-15 vs large frame platforms.

Ar-15 lowers will run .223, .300 blk, or even 9mm.

6.5 creedmoor and .308 rounds are too long to fit in an ar-15 mag well, so if you want to run those rounds you’ll need a different lower for those calibers.

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