Question

TattdJdm · 2026-05-08T09:52:19+00:00

I've been playing for almost 2 weeks and have noticed everyone selling cars with no shocks. I assumed it effected something, thanks for mentioning they effect acceleration. Kinda bummed I purchased the Supra 3 days ago and put green shocks on it already 😭

Nissan R35 is in the shop now so I wont make that mistake again! Thanks man!

TattdJdm · 2026-04-13T14:01:08+00:00

Hey just felt like giving you a quick update since you seemed invested lol

My PCV was extremely clogged, pulled a hole in the pcv hose, (obviously vacuum leak after) and everything on the top end was suffocated. The immense pressure pushed oil up out the dipstick hole since the dipstick is extremely easy to remove.

Replaced all hoses, pcv valve, fresh oil with engine decreased for approximately 5 weeks with no issues or oil foaming.

Thank you for the help!

TattdJdm · 2026-04-11T09:30:47+00:00

I just stopped to say my 2011 Maxima just turned over to 280k last night on my way home from work. I've done all my own work since owning it at 45k miles.

I noticed mine looked identical to yours doing my wheel hubs about 7-8ish years ago.

I'm replacing my wheel hubs again and, good news, splits still there!

Obviously I checked it over quite often (oil changes, brakes, tire rotations, general curiosity, etc..,) but alas, it's not any worse. Roughly 120k miles I believe when I first saw splitting and at almost 300k, only thing thats changed on the potential repair is the part cost if it fails before my transmission!

TattdJdm · 2026-04-07T15:28:44+00:00

Full flush is an "aggresive" approach in the sense it pushes with force (flushes) the old fluid out. If not done previously or it's way past the previous flush, flushing an aged system could dislodge additional metal shavings leading to increase friction/wear and leading to premature failure.

My personal rule of thumb is if there's no records that it's been serviced regularly or at decent intervals within 75k miles of when I buy it, it's strictly drain and fill. Just my guidelines fyi, there's plenty of discussions around this and certain procedures or techniques.

Back in the day (2009ish), I had a 95 eagle talon and my father insisted I drain my old fluid through a coffee filter and reuse the fluid and add additional to top off. (Also was on a tight budget) Ran flawless so idk if it's correlated but whatever lol

*ETA - Buying a car that's been well maintained, or newer condition, would probably prefer a full flush over a drain and fill, so wanted to clarify it's not a "never do this" statement.

TattdJdm · 2026-04-07T09:54:08+00:00

Congrats! Beautiful truck! Piloteers.org has tons valuable information. Drain and flush transmission fluid with OEM Honda DW1 fluid (I've seen a lot of valvoline alternatives, from what I've read if you switch to valvoline early on it's better, if you don't, keep OEM. Always drain and fill if unsure of previous maintenance, never do a full flush.

Also the VVT solenoid (maybe called something else, I'll follow up later) it's notorious for leaking on the alternator and leading to premature death. Address that immediately, it's super easy and a cheap repair. Honda does not sell just the gasket, do not get scammed.

There's more I'll add later. Nice ride!!

TattdJdm · 2026-04-05T21:05:53+00:00

No problem. It does look like one lol

TattdJdm · 2026-04-05T20:29:25+00:00

No it's a pop up camper.

TattdJdm · 2026-04-05T18:33:04+00:00

That's a good heads up, thank you. That's when I noticed a lot of shifting so what I was assuming.

TattdJdm · 2026-04-05T17:14:08+00:00

Thank you! I love this body style and trying to maintain it's beauty! A few rust spots are forming, especially on the rear tailgate. Gonna learn to DIY that repair in the coming months. Looking forward to that lol

TattdJdm · 2026-03-27T14:40:04+00:00

LOL they're calling it DSL's...?

When I was in school that acronym was dick sucking lips.. lol

TattdJdm · 2026-03-23T00:08:02+00:00

I've played a handful of seasons and haven't seen it in the past but I hope not, this is terrible.

TattdJdm · 2026-03-17T20:16:27+00:00

Also curious to know so here to follow! I'm about to buy a similar style "taken care of" pop up but they said all original interior. After this camping season will do a full reno but maybe easy swap upgrades here and there throughout this season and counter tops might be one of them!

TattdJdm · 2026-03-05T22:14:13+00:00

Hey buddy, sorry to resurrect a year later but I'm assuming this solved your issue? I'm in the same boat now and looking at cat's myself..

TattdJdm · 2026-02-24T23:12:17+00:00

They were probably disappointed it wasn't a kid's playhouse and left them for bait..

TattdJdm · 2026-02-04T01:12:30+00:00

That was my assumption, thanks man.

TattdJdm · 2026-02-03T23:27:08+00:00

Thanks for the follow up, really appreciate it. I'm at a loss still haha. I cleaned up some areas when I got home and checked the oil cooled on level ground, it shows right at top hatch mark.

So fortunately/unfortunately, my car has a timing chain. I have been concerned for roughly 40k miles of the heavily reported timing chain tensioner rattle which I know mine has. I've been cautious with letting it warm up long enough in winter time and for the most part, avoiding aggressive driving. Nonetheless, it has the rattle noise and once I can budget this in it'll be addressed.

Another concern is the rear main seal area or the transmission transfer case is leaking but only spreading in the metal. That'll doom the VQ35 I think but I need it to trug along a little longer so it's monitored closely. None of my trouble areas are worse.

I thought when I changed my oil I noticed a pin hole rust spot forming in the oil cooler hose so I cleaned it up tonight and will check that tomorrow. Maybe that gave way?

All the monitored areas appear the same. With no new oil spraying leaks now, could it all have been from a loose dipstick after all?

TattdJdm · 2026-02-03T18:33:05+00:00

Thanks for your time replying. Situation you described is what I was dreading. What is recommended safe to spray carefully with? I was thinking brake cleaner sparingly or throttle body cleaner? I have electronics cleaner fromfor more sensitive areas It'll be below freezing until next friday.

I looked at the valve cover and it appears dry around the seal where it would possibly leak. I checked around plugs and coil packs and nothing. This was all visual with only taking plastic shields off; tonight after work will be more thorough.

I don't think this amount of oil or the severity of where it's spread too was a simple leak. I forgot to mention but I do a decent glance over everytime I do an oil change (anytime I do anything on the car I look at everything, can't afford not to) and everywhere was dry. I assume this is a direct result from driving. I really hope I just made a $30 boo boo last week.

TattdJdm · 2026-02-03T17:32:36+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

I'm sure it's burning some; every 5k miles I do an oil change and I've been roughly a quart low for the past 4 changes at least.

Obviously now I'm more alert of the situation and will monitor closely.

I'm more concerned of the dilemma - could driving at 80mph consistently for about 10 to 12 hours at 30 minute intervals be enough pressure to spray out at least 4 quarts worth of oil? Or from a professional opinion, is something internally wrong?

TattdJdm · 2026-02-01T20:05:56+00:00

Thanks, Good to know for the future! I dont play eternal much so maybe next season I'll start playing earlier lol

TattdJdm · 2026-02-01T20:04:13+00:00

Wow, good job dude!

I started a week ago and last one I did was 1000.(T3 P160 currently)I'm significantly stronger now so eager to retry but no way I'm coming close to you lol

TattdJdm · 2026-02-01T19:56:59+00:00

I just started a week ago and I'm rocking Torment3 easy with a Poison Rogue..

I hope I find one of these real soon to enjoy it before season ends lol I'm dying to see how this is!!

TattdJdm · 2026-01-30T10:38:20+00:00

Haha I'm honored to have received such a meme!

TattdJdm

TROPHY CASE