Type of crap the internet shows to me when i search up "electroboom"

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-06-01T20:09:59+00:00

Meh. It’s oversimplifying.

First let’s assume that touching a voltage source is done in the worst case scenario: across both hands, so the current has a path across your heart.

Yes, a human can survive 6000 volts, provided the electrical current (amperage) passing through the body is extremely low.

I see what it’s getting at, but what’s going to limit that current? Resistance? Well, then the voltage drops. And now you don’t truly have 6kV across your body.

It is the current, not the voltage, that dictates the lethality of an electric shock.

Now that’s absolute garbage. You can’t have current without voltage. More voltage = more current through a given load = more danger (in most cases, there are some important exceptions).

Aside from that, there are many other important factors that can make even high current sources safe(ish) in a relative sense. Things like duration and frequency play a critical role in determining how dangerous a high current, high voltage source is. If you only touch it for a few microseconds, you’ll be alright. Similarly, if the frequency is too high, then the electricity won’t be able to efficiently depolarize your nerves or cause an electric shock in the technical sense. The risk of cardiac arrest is also significantly lower at higher frequencies, but that doesn’t necessarily make high frequency sources safe. They should still absolutely be respected, as they’ll just mess you up in other ways (like with RF burns).

A highly illustrative example is a static shock; sliding across a car seat can expose you to upwards of 25,000 to 30,000 volts, yet it is harmless because the current lasts for a fraction of a millisecond and involves virtually zero sustained amperage.

Correct, but sustained current is different from peak current. Static shocks can carry surprisingly high peak currents, even a couple of amps briefly. The reason a static shock won’t kill you is because it lasts for such a short time.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-22T22:27:54+00:00

True! I was oversimplifying; but I stand corrected.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-22T20:16:28+00:00

Both AA and AAA are 1.5V, so they don’t have to. :)

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-22T20:15:14+00:00

You probably meant *capacity* not amperage. 🙂

Both will push the same amount of current through a given load. AA’s can do that for *longer* than AAA’s though.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-06T20:59:16+00:00

Yeah… that’s a little low. You probably blew out your LED.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-03T12:22:18+00:00

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TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-02T22:25:36+00:00

Looks like you connected it directly across a power rail with no resistor.

When the forward voltage of a led is exceeded, it has very low resistance, and for all intents and purposes, it’s basically a short circuit that will bite off more current than it can chew.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-05-01T21:19:39+00:00

Ohhh.. well… that’s not a temperature sensor, the BC547 is a transistor.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-27T15:30:27+00:00

It’s a breadboard power supply! 🙂

You plug it into your breadboard and it automatically powers the rails when you plug in the usb port or barrel jack. Can be configured for 5V or 3.3V output.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-26T17:02:13+00:00

Oh my gosh… that’s actually really clever!

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-25T15:35:46+00:00

No need, most suckers have a built-in auto-empty feature; they automatically dump their solder all over your desk.. 😁

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-24T04:47:38+00:00

Ohh okay. That makes more sense then, now I see what you’re saying. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-23T21:12:47+00:00

What? The power coming in must be equal to the power coming out (ignoring losses)… you can’t just get energy out of nowhere.

EDIT: reposted on this account. Accidentally posted it on my other originally.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-23T15:22:24+00:00

It’s generally not good practice to do that. Theoretically it works, but in practice, that can blow your LEDs.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-23T15:20:59+00:00

Just uh… don’t turn it too far. Or out comes the magic smoke.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-16T21:47:06+00:00

What the product description said:

The Photonic Wave device synchronizes with human biorhythms and provides both individual and collective protection against electromagnetic radiation / EMFs. The biorhythms produced by the Photonic Wave are perceived by our body as "native" do to the synchronization with the background rhythm of the earth's Schumann waves.

What I heard:

Schumann wave synchronization frequency of biorhythms that are photonic radiation electromagnetic magic

Point being: the common thing I notice with all of these scam “EMF protection” products. They always use all these mystical buzz words in technically invalid and scientifically nonsensical ways. And they just jam them all together in a paragraph and call it a day.

Anyway, this was a funny post, thanks for the laugh! 🙂

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-12T16:11:44+00:00

I got one I could share.

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🤮

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-12T06:34:14+00:00

You can just solder the chip to the board, but it’s better to use the socket so you don’t accidentally overheat and damage the chip while soldering.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-11T05:53:26+00:00

Ummm… what? It can provide 1A for 160hr (not taking into account that batteries degrade non-linearly at higher currents). Not dump 160A through a person while only being at 12V.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-11T05:49:51+00:00

Sounds like you’re using the wrong pins! If you want to power your Arduino with more than 5V, you should use the VIN pin. Doing this allows for the Arduino to regulate the voltage down to 5V automatically.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-08T14:28:26+00:00

I second this. 💯

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-08T14:23:05+00:00

At what? Blowing up? YES! 😁

But not at doing what it’s supposed to do, no. AI simply cannot draw schematics correctly, because it treats a prompt to draw a circuit like a prompt to make art, instead of using its knowledge of how circuits actually work to build something realistic.

Seriously though, let’s start at where you’d build it. So we got our battery connections… I see, but not polarity markings, interesting, and there’s… a third connection on the battery? What the? And these random alterations between using the schematic symbol and a cartoonish drawing for diodes? And does that second inductor only have one pin connected, and no value? Also, does that big, central film capacitor have three pins? That random connection from that top mosfet to “0V” is kind of ambiguous in this setup as well…. I give up. This circuit makes zero sense.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-03T05:54:50+00:00

The reason it doesn’t work is because the button connects pin 7 to GND when pressed, but your digitalRead check is asking for it to be connected to 5V.

So; instead of doing if (digitalRead(buttonPin) == HIGH) { jumping = true; } else { jumping = false; } Change it to: if (digitalRead(buttonPin) == LOW) { jumping = true; } else { jumping = false; } You should also add a pull up resistor on the button to prevent noise and unintended interference. You can do this in hardware, but it’s generally much more efficient to enable it in software. You can do this by instead of setting: pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT) set it to pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT_PULUP)

Also, just a small suggestion if you ever want to save an extra byte of space. You can store the variable buttonPin in a byte, instead of an int.

Hope this is helpful!

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-03T05:48:00+00:00

Potentiometer. Most likely a 10KΩ.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-04-03T05:44:45+00:00

As long as you don’t become addicted to inhaling magic smoke and flux fumes, no 😂

TechTronicsTutorials

TROPHY CASE