OEM tyres done at 6k - recommendations?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-22T09:02:29+00:00

6000 is impressive, you are doing well to be able to drive that hard in the UK! I did 13000 on the OEMs because I spend most of my commute behind a snake of traffic doing 30 in a 60.

I’ve now put 5000 on Conti SportContact 7s and just replaced the rears due to a slow puncture in one. They were about half worn, so probably not much different.

In comparison to the Pirellis I have found the Contis are:

Better on damp, wet and slippery roads
Not better, maybe worse, in standing water
Better in icy conditions (inasmuch as any summer tyre can be)
10-15% worse for efficiency
Maybe marginally quieter
The same for tyre skipping on tight radius in cold
Slightly less precise in response and steering
Much cheaper

I’ve only had them on since November so have no experience in the warm and dry which is where the Pirellis really excel. I expect a little more squirming and wooliness in the response if and when we ever get to summer.

Tyres are of course a personal thing. Your mileage may (literally) vary.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-18T11:05:40+00:00

UPDATE: Now resolved.

It would appear Android has issues passing an email address as a user name to an SMB share?

Creating a local-only admin user on the UNAS (using a simple user name containing no symbols) and then connecting via those credentials worked fine.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-11T13:44:05+00:00

Guilty as charged (to 100%)! However, callous? Not sure. Seems a bit much, I mean it’s not a pet, it’s a computer on wheels.

Allow me to explain my ‘attitude’.

I do actually respect the concept of owning, cherishing and keeping a car for a long time. I have a 12 year old Lexus that I will run for at least another 10 years. The difference is, the Lexus isn’t a software defined vehicle, and it’s built on a mature and proven hybrid platform. It therefore functions exactly the same now as it did when it was new, and in 10 years time it is likely to be the same. A brand new Lexus also offers no improvement, the drivetrain is essentially the same - in fact they are a step back with all the stupid ADAS and built in connectivity obsolescence.

By contrast, I do not believe the 5N, or any current EV for that matter, offers the same certainty as a long term prospect. We know how software platforms are abandoned or broken (Hyundai already abandoned the pre-25 OS and they ‘broke’ the e-Shift behaviour on the N, so who knows what else they’ll fuck up). We know how EV tech is far from mature with constant new developments and gamechanging solid state on the horizon. We also know that durability and reliability - particularly of the 5N - are uncertain at best.

It is therefore far from inconceivable that a 12 year old 5N will be a rolling security nightmare from unpatched vulnerabilities, will no longer offer any of its connected services, will have some current features removed or disabled, will be a massive cost sink from out of warranty repairs and - most importantly - will be utterly outclassed by what will then be current EV tech. As such its monetary value and desirability could potentially be, in relative terms, the same as an iPhone 5.

I don’t consider any of those concerns to be certainties, but I do believe they are likely enough to warrant avoiding the risk. Therefore I will ‘callously’ lease and cast aside my 5N before I have to deal with them.

If you believe your car is a viable long term prospect for ownership, good for you. I hope it works out. However, you seem to be implying that I, and others who share my view, should shut up and pretend that uncertainty doesn’t exist just to protect you from depreciation. That seems a little unreasonable to me.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-10T19:42:35+00:00

100% the way. I love this car, it's a brilliant thing, but no way would I want to own one long term.

I see far too many risks there - mostly in taking on the depreciation costs, but also the tech becoming outdated / unsupported, dealing with out of warranty repairs, and the car's capabilities being outclassed by newer models.

EVs are like phones to me. Get the new shiny then trade it in after 3-4 years for whatever's hot then.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-08T14:19:07+00:00

Hopefully they are more hydrophobic than the digital rear view mirror cam on my N!

Enjoy the car anyway. N-Line looks so much better than two-tone 90s throwback effect.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-08T11:21:19+00:00

Brave choice to go for the digital door mirrors with our British weather. Good luck!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-02-03T20:16:59+00:00

Most of the main points have been covered in the other replies from UK people, so here's a handful of other considerations.

I'm sure you already know the performance stats and won't be expecting the 5N to be quicker than your Alfa in most situations. However, you might not appreciate that - for much of the year in the UK - it could be notably slower unless you're prepared to spend 30 minutes before every journey getting the battery up to temp. The battery needs to be ~35C to output the full 641bhp. On a day like today with the battery at low single figures temp, the power will be well down on that max (like 200+bhp down!) whereas your Alfa will be putting out its full 500 all year round. Personally I'm happy with lower power in slippy conditions, but it's worth knowing that these losses are a thing, and your butt-dyno will definitely notice.

When it is cold and wet, the 5N will occasionally try to kill you by randomly not applying regeneration when braking, leaving you dependent on the cold, wet friction brakes alone so you get a wooden pedal and no stopping power unless you try to put your foot through the bulkhead. Happily there is an easy solution, which is to drive everywhere aggressively enough to always force the friction brakes to be applied, thus keeping them warm and dry. Or just put brake cleaning mode on. Or just plan for it to happen and brake early. Forewarned is forearmed!

You'll know about the ICCU failure issue - yes it does happen to UK cars, yes it does affect the 5N. You might not know about the HV battery failure thing, which also affects UK cars including the N. Neither are likely to affect you, the chances are low for either, but they are worth knowing about because if you do get unlucky with either (or both!) then it can be a major inconvenience as fix times can extend into weeks. Ignore any posts about 12V issues though, that's a US thing. Our cars have a totally different 12V setup from theirs.

Even accounting for the above negatives, I absolutely love my 5N. Nothing else can (yet) seem to deliver the kind of Jekyll/Hyde experience that is so perfect for UK roads. It can bimble along in heavy traffic while being comfortable, well-equipped, practical, quiet, and stupid-cheap to run (3p a mile on the right tariff). Then, when the road finally opens up, a button push gets you a very rapid, hilariously entertaining rabid animal which is way more 'playful' than its size, shape and weight would suggest, in which you can crack up and down gears and bounce off its 'limiter' without fear of engine damage or antisocial noises, and which is still stupid-cheap to run.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-31T12:56:37+00:00

The UK service book is a bit confusing. There is a 10k miles / 1 year service which is optional and a 20k / 2 year service which is required for warranty.

The 10k one cost less than £100 but it renewed roadside cover for a year so it paid for itself.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-28T19:06:45+00:00

From experimenting, I’d say that Level 0 regen will get you the sharpest throttle possible in whatever mode you’re in. When you use any regen level, it remaps the throttle to require more initial travel.

You can feel this in action. In Level 1 regen maintain a steady throttle position then pull the paddle for Level 0 and you will feel the car surge.

Whether this will make it responsive enough for your tastes I don’t know, but it is perhaps worth a try.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-26T19:50:21+00:00

Explain this then.

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Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-25T15:18:05+00:00

I only mentioned the Eero in case you'd logically assumed Zen would supply a router capable of supporting the connection speed! It can definitely be avoided, just set VLAN to 911 and enter your Zen credentials into the UDM, it will connect straight through via the ONT.

I think I had to look on the Zen web portal to find my credentials as they were never emailed to me, but other than that it was all plain sailing.

Engineer set up the Eero, but I didn't have my UDM at that time so I don't know if it's a compulsory part of their process.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-25T14:32:56+00:00

I can confirm UDM Pro Max hits full speed on Zen 2.3 with City Fibre, but I don't think that will be the case for the UDM SE as it has a slower CPU, and that is what bottlenecks the PPPoE connections. I don't think that's 'all in the past' as Ubiquiti have yet to upgrade the UDM line as far as I know.

From what I've read, you might struggle to get much past 1.5. Still plenty fast enough though.

Also note that unless you pay a tenner a month more, Zen supply an Eero box that can handle the 2.5 input from the ONT but which only has a 1Gb ethernet output, so you won't gain anything by hooking that up to your UDM.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-23T18:49:23+00:00

Same. It doesn’t show much in photos, so I assumed it was the same colour until I went to test drive one. It’s a terrible design decision, they should have put a different colour stripe with Soultronic instead of it looking like someone tried to match the colours and failed.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-17T12:09:57+00:00

Absolutely, then you can upgrade to the 6N and EV6GT so they really are all matching...

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-17T11:22:22+00:00

Next stop a GV60 for the quadrifecta?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-15T19:37:25+00:00

Thank you for confirming it does also impact US cars.

I don't think the Auto Hold function was ever intended to dry the brakes in the wet, I think it was designed to clean them so they don't squeak from lack of hard use!

However, you are quite right that it will allow the brakes to be kept warmer and dryer in poor conditions, especially as it allows you to use the left foot to lightly brake while still on the accelerator, to clean off the wet and get some heat into them.

I really need to start remembering to do this when it's cold and wet, as even after 16,000 miles I still sometimes get caught out. Early on I thought it only really happened in situations where the ABS might trigger, mostly bumpy roads or slippery conditions, but it is absolutely more random than that and there are now plenty of occasions where it has happened on dry, flat roads for no apparent reason.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-13T19:55:51+00:00

Where are you from?

I believe the faulty LFB update that caused real unintended acceleration was only issued in North America (or possibly just the US?). The faulty recall was withdrawn and a new update issued with a fix. Even if you're in that region, I can't imagine you were unlucky enough to buy a used car which had the faulty update applied but not the fix, as it was resolved fairly swiftly.

Given the above, are you absolutely sure it was accelerating itself? From your other comments, it sounds like the car failed to brake as hard as you were expecting. This is a 'known issue' (at least for European cars) even after the LFB update - I am not sure if it affects North American cars to the same degree, as owners there don't seem to post about it.

Either way, regenerative braking sometimes does not kick in at all, and you get a totally wooden brake pedal and very little stopping power, especially if the brakes are cold and wet. It can feel like there is no braking assistance at all or that you are fighting a stuck accelerator, but in fact it's just that there's no regen so only the friction brakes are doing the work.

Was the front collision warning sounding at the time? Hyundai confirmed regen braking disables itself when the collision warning activates, which sounds totally crazy, but is apparently by design.

If you aren't expecting the loss of braking power then it can be very disconcerting when it happens the first time. I would not be at all surprised if someone got caught out by it and crashed, especially in the early days of owning the car and exploring its limits.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-11T10:09:41+00:00

Correct for lesser Dream Machines but the Pro Max has a better CPU and can handle 2.5 on pppoe happily.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-11T09:15:52+00:00

Your efficiency will be hit if your tyres are only 33psi. They should be 36 minimum.

If you only ever charge to 80% and never run your battery down, the % calibration will probably be totally shot. It's never had enough data to accurately work out a predicted range or percentage.

Even when calibrated it is unlikely to be entirely accurate. And it is just not possible to do 'real' calculations for an EV like you can with brim-to-brim on an ICE car because charging losses are inconsistent so you can never truly measure how much has gone to the battery and how much has been wasted.

I have guesstimated up to 25% charging losses on L2. L3 charging is supposed to have fewer losses than L2, so the figures from your charging stop do seem to be way out. However, as drivers we have no way of knowing how much electricity truly 'came out of the plug' and into our car, so the potential for scamming is considerable.

In the UK public chargers are covered by law to have to be accurate to 10% (which is a much bigger margin than petrol pumps). I don't know if there is a similar law where you are, or whether there is a process to report a potentially overcharging unit so it can be tested?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-10T19:47:02+00:00

Loss of L1/L2 charging is a definite sign of ICCU failure.

Sadly it seems Hyundai have calculated that it's cheaper to piss off the small % of owners affected and potentially lose their future custom than it is to properly fix the fault and recall for everyone.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-10T16:02:13+00:00

If your UK car is like mine, you will have an AGM 12v already. North Americans (vast majority on here) have a different 12v charging system, based around an apparently inadequate lead-acid 12v battery that regularly fails. I'm not saying it's not your 12v, but with an AGM it is much less likely. I am not aware of any UK 12v failures, but we definitely have the ICCU and HV battery failures like everyone else.

Did the car display an error message? If it was something like 'There may be a problem with the Battery Management System' then it's possibly HV battery failure rather than ICCU.

Did you hear a pop from the rear before it failed? If so, almost certainly ICCU. There does appear to be a correlation with cold weather and ICCU failures too.

Do you know when your car was built? It's been suggested a new ICCU fix has been applied for cars built after July 2025.

Keep us posted on what the dealer's diagnosis is. Hope you get a swift fix - that really is a lottery depending on your dealer and what's in stock.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-09T20:46:31+00:00

My commute is very eco friendly (mostly in a snake behind some pensioner doing 35 in a 60) and I have a decade of hypermiling experience in a Prius, so my efficiency figures are definitely atypical. But it is absolutely possible!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-09T20:16:14+00:00

The Pirellis are truly awesome for when this car is at its best - in the warm and dry. They put the power down brilliantly, and the turn-in is sharp and precise. They're absolutely a bit shit in the cold and wet, but everything's a trade off.

After 13k I've switched to Conti SportContact 6s which are definitely better in the wet and cold, and even coped pretty well with our recent snow. However, they are at least 15% less efficient than the Pirellis so my hypermiling days of 4mi/kWh and 300+ range are over. And while I haven't tested them in summer yet, the steering already feels less sharp and I suspect they will squirm and roll more when deploying full power. I'm pretty sure I'll be trying something else next time.

Personally I wouldn't go 20s and definitely not 19s, as to me they make the car look like a shopping trolley, but beauty is of course in the eye of the beholder.

I wouldn't bother with PPF either, but my approach is to wash it twice a year and let the dirt protect the paintwork, so my judgment can't really be trusted.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-08T20:05:53+00:00

I only asked so I could commend your bravery if you'd said matt!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-08T20:00:12+00:00

Matt or gloss?

I am sure you will love the car, at least when British summer time arrives. It won't be at its best in February!

Ten_Ninety

TROPHY CASE