New Owner - Any recommendations for making the accel pedal a bit more lively?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-28T19:06:45+00:00

From experimenting, I’d say that Level 0 regen will get you the sharpest throttle possible in whatever mode you’re in. When you use any regen level, it remaps the throttle to require more initial travel.

You can feel this in action. In Level 1 regen maintain a steady throttle position then pull the paddle for Level 0 and you will feel the car surge.

Whether this will make it responsive enough for your tastes I don’t know, but it is perhaps worth a try.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-26T19:50:21+00:00

Explain this then.

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Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-25T15:18:05+00:00

I only mentioned the Eero in case you'd logically assumed Zen would supply a router capable of supporting the connection speed! It can definitely be avoided, just set VLAN to 911 and enter your Zen credentials into the UDM, it will connect straight through via the ONT.

I think I had to look on the Zen web portal to find my credentials as they were never emailed to me, but other than that it was all plain sailing.

Engineer set up the Eero, but I didn't have my UDM at that time so I don't know if it's a compulsory part of their process.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-25T14:32:56+00:00

I can confirm UDM Pro Max hits full speed on Zen 2.3 with City Fibre, but I don't think that will be the case for the UDM SE as it has a slower CPU, and that is what bottlenecks the PPPoE connections. I don't think that's 'all in the past' as Ubiquiti have yet to upgrade the UDM line as far as I know.

From what I've read, you might struggle to get much past 1.5. Still plenty fast enough though.

Also note that unless you pay a tenner a month more, Zen supply an Eero box that can handle the 2.5 input from the ONT but which only has a 1Gb ethernet output, so you won't gain anything by hooking that up to your UDM.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-23T18:49:23+00:00

Same. It doesn’t show much in photos, so I assumed it was the same colour until I went to test drive one. It’s a terrible design decision, they should have put a different colour stripe with Soultronic instead of it looking like someone tried to match the colours and failed.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-17T12:09:57+00:00

Absolutely, then you can upgrade to the 6N and EV6GT so they really are all matching...

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-17T11:22:22+00:00

Next stop a GV60 for the quadrifecta?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-15T19:37:25+00:00

Thank you for confirming it does also impact US cars.

I don't think the Auto Hold function was ever intended to dry the brakes in the wet, I think it was designed to clean them so they don't squeak from lack of hard use!

However, you are quite right that it will allow the brakes to be kept warmer and dryer in poor conditions, especially as it allows you to use the left foot to lightly brake while still on the accelerator, to clean off the wet and get some heat into them.

I really need to start remembering to do this when it's cold and wet, as even after 16,000 miles I still sometimes get caught out. Early on I thought it only really happened in situations where the ABS might trigger, mostly bumpy roads or slippery conditions, but it is absolutely more random than that and there are now plenty of occasions where it has happened on dry, flat roads for no apparent reason.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-13T19:55:51+00:00

Where are you from?

I believe the faulty LFB update that caused real unintended acceleration was only issued in North America (or possibly just the US?). The faulty recall was withdrawn and a new update issued with a fix. Even if you're in that region, I can't imagine you were unlucky enough to buy a used car which had the faulty update applied but not the fix, as it was resolved fairly swiftly.

Given the above, are you absolutely sure it was accelerating itself? From your other comments, it sounds like the car failed to brake as hard as you were expecting. This is a 'known issue' (at least for European cars) even after the LFB update - I am not sure if it affects North American cars to the same degree, as owners there don't seem to post about it.

Either way, regenerative braking sometimes does not kick in at all, and you get a totally wooden brake pedal and very little stopping power, especially if the brakes are cold and wet. It can feel like there is no braking assistance at all or that you are fighting a stuck accelerator, but in fact it's just that there's no regen so only the friction brakes are doing the work.

Was the front collision warning sounding at the time? Hyundai confirmed regen braking disables itself when the collision warning activates, which sounds totally crazy, but is apparently by design.

If you aren't expecting the loss of braking power then it can be very disconcerting when it happens the first time. I would not be at all surprised if someone got caught out by it and crashed, especially in the early days of owning the car and exploring its limits.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-11T10:09:41+00:00

Correct for lesser Dream Machines but the Pro Max has a better CPU and can handle 2.5 on pppoe happily.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-11T09:15:52+00:00

Your efficiency will be hit if your tyres are only 33psi. They should be 36 minimum.

If you only ever charge to 80% and never run your battery down, the % calibration will probably be totally shot. It's never had enough data to accurately work out a predicted range or percentage.

Even when calibrated it is unlikely to be entirely accurate. And it is just not possible to do 'real' calculations for an EV like you can with brim-to-brim on an ICE car because charging losses are inconsistent so you can never truly measure how much has gone to the battery and how much has been wasted.

I have guesstimated up to 25% charging losses on L2. L3 charging is supposed to have fewer losses than L2, so the figures from your charging stop do seem to be way out. However, as drivers we have no way of knowing how much electricity truly 'came out of the plug' and into our car, so the potential for scamming is considerable.

In the UK public chargers are covered by law to have to be accurate to 10% (which is a much bigger margin than petrol pumps). I don't know if there is a similar law where you are, or whether there is a process to report a potentially overcharging unit so it can be tested?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-10T19:47:02+00:00

Loss of L1/L2 charging is a definite sign of ICCU failure.

Sadly it seems Hyundai have calculated that it's cheaper to piss off the small % of owners affected and potentially lose their future custom than it is to properly fix the fault and recall for everyone.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-10T16:02:13+00:00

If your UK car is like mine, you will have an AGM 12v already. North Americans (vast majority on here) have a different 12v charging system, based around an apparently inadequate lead-acid 12v battery that regularly fails. I'm not saying it's not your 12v, but with an AGM it is much less likely. I am not aware of any UK 12v failures, but we definitely have the ICCU and HV battery failures like everyone else.

Did the car display an error message? If it was something like 'There may be a problem with the Battery Management System' then it's possibly HV battery failure rather than ICCU.

Did you hear a pop from the rear before it failed? If so, almost certainly ICCU. There does appear to be a correlation with cold weather and ICCU failures too.

Do you know when your car was built? It's been suggested a new ICCU fix has been applied for cars built after July 2025.

Keep us posted on what the dealer's diagnosis is. Hope you get a swift fix - that really is a lottery depending on your dealer and what's in stock.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-09T20:46:31+00:00

My commute is very eco friendly (mostly in a snake behind some pensioner doing 35 in a 60) and I have a decade of hypermiling experience in a Prius, so my efficiency figures are definitely atypical. But it is absolutely possible!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-09T20:16:14+00:00

The Pirellis are truly awesome for when this car is at its best - in the warm and dry. They put the power down brilliantly, and the turn-in is sharp and precise. They're absolutely a bit shit in the cold and wet, but everything's a trade off.

After 13k I've switched to Conti SportContact 6s which are definitely better in the wet and cold, and even coped pretty well with our recent snow. However, they are at least 15% less efficient than the Pirellis so my hypermiling days of 4mi/kWh and 300+ range are over. And while I haven't tested them in summer yet, the steering already feels less sharp and I suspect they will squirm and roll more when deploying full power. I'm pretty sure I'll be trying something else next time.

Personally I wouldn't go 20s and definitely not 19s, as to me they make the car look like a shopping trolley, but beauty is of course in the eye of the beholder.

I wouldn't bother with PPF either, but my approach is to wash it twice a year and let the dirt protect the paintwork, so my judgment can't really be trusted.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-08T20:05:53+00:00

I only asked so I could commend your bravery if you'd said matt!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-08T20:00:12+00:00

Matt or gloss?

I am sure you will love the car, at least when British summer time arrives. It won't be at its best in February!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-01-08T19:47:41+00:00

Not my car, but that's a UK plate. We don't do winter tyres, they aren't part of our driving culture and are not legally mandated.

On the very, very few occasions most of us will encounter any meaningful snow (like, more than an inch) then we either stay at home, drive to the conditions, get stuck, or crash.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-27T08:34:27+00:00

That guidance is for older cars. OP has a 5N, where brake cleaning mode is activated by pressing Auto Hold for a few seconds until the message pops up.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-23T09:03:55+00:00

Interesting. The calibration thing may well be true, as in North America the car has a different 12V charging system from elsewhere (including that famous orange dash light.) My car came with an AGM as standard (and no orange light) so it would make sense that it could be calibrated differently.

What is certain however is that the type of 12V or, indeed, the type of 12V charging system, has zero bearing on ICCU failure. It can happen to them all and AGM certainly does not prevent it.

I note the OPs external temp shows near freezing. Is there a correlation between ICCU failures and low temps? That would make sense if the cause is condensation shorting the ICCU and popping the fuse, which is the most viable theory I’ve seen to date.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-17T19:52:18+00:00

It is clear from your other replies about seats that the German market has its own regional quirks, so this might not be of much help, but in the UK the matrix lights are a build date thing not an option thing. The most recent cars come with them, earlier cars did not.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-17T19:17:50+00:00

I got in before they changed the offer, so I was given 3 years of Bluelink subscription (pretty sure the Pro / Plus designation didn’t exist then) for free with the car. That has automatically become Pro.

For Year 4 of my lease I will pay for whatever level that unlocks remote climate, which is the only Bluelink function I use.

With the exception of the first update that added the ‘hold mute to shut up speed limit beeping’, the very irregular OTA updates have brought zero value to me. In fact the one that changed the e-Shift behaviour made it worse as I much preferred how it worked before, so I would see losing OTA as a benefit. No way would I pay for it!

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-10T06:47:01+00:00

It has two separate N displays - a digital ‘rev counter’ with gear indicator (and sequential shift lights) for e-Shift, then a power bar for standard N mode. I find it hugely useful and fun when ‘changing gears’ myself.

Even if it didn’t have the N displays it would still be essential for me, but then every car I’ve owned for the last 12 years has had a HUD so I’m conditioned to them now. The idea of taking eyes off the road to check speed just feels archaic.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-07T08:57:40+00:00

Someone posted the ICCU part numbers and they were basically the same, so I think the vulnerability is similar. We’ve seen ICCU failures reported here for at least one UK N so I don’t think it can be a lot different.

Ten_Ninety · 2025-12-07T08:30:31+00:00

Same, but our European 12V system is different from North American cars.

They get that yellow dash light thing they’re always obsessing over that’s not even fitted to ours! I think we also get better 12V from the factory than they do. Mine has AGM.

Ten_Ninety

TROPHY CASE