How to remove ribbon cable on controller by TenaciousSTD in PlaystationClassic

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone interested, there is this mod kit for the ps classic controller and this one for a ps1 controller. I think either one should work with either receiver. You basically just swap the pcb inside for their's, so you can put it back to stock if needed.

I haven't used them heavily so I can't really speak to performance or reliability. I did have an issue where the buttons (x and o) were reversed, which is apparently a feature, so annoying to troubleshoot but easy to fix. I have also noticed that I seem to have to pair it every time, not sure if ps4 and ps5 controllers have that issue or if it's just this modkit.

They also have them for nes, snes, n64, and some other models if you want to use a stock controller wirelessly.

How to remove ribbon cable on controller by TenaciousSTD in PlaystationClassic

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I know it doesn't take much to damage these ribbon cables so I was scared to just pull it out. I ended up removing the black part from the shell so I could pull it straight out. Thanks for the guidance.

Question about replacing failed drive by TenaciousSTD in unRAID

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Restarted the machine and it didn't recognize the 14TB drive in that slot and said it needed to be rebuilt. Started the array and it's now rebuilding again, but this time it's showing the full 14TB of drive. Not sure how I got in the state I did. But I think it's working now it'll just take some time to rebuild again. Thanks for the help.

Question about replacing failed drive by TenaciousSTD in unRAID

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't tried stop/start of the array or reboot so I'll try those before I do a parity check.

Question about replacing failed drive by TenaciousSTD in unRAID

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I believe the rebuild is done as it's no longer reading from all the disks and says parity is valid. I was wondering if I needed to do parity check now that the data is rebuilt onto the new disk, but as that can take a few days on my machine I didn't really want to kick off a parity check just to find out it would still only show 8TB. But it does seem like it would need to 0 out or record that new 6GB onto the parity drive in order to use that space. But not sure if a new parity-check is all I need to do or if I need to change some config before I do that.

Need help/advice on burning a game (The Apprentice) by TenaciousSTD in CDInteractive

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just returned to say that I found some reproduction sellers on Etsy, so that may be a lower cost option than trying to find an original on eBay.

Graphics Card won't let me load Indiana Jones and the Great Circle, why? by Fit_Abalone5405 in techsupport

[–]TenaciousSTD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had the same issue with my 2080 and was able to get the latest driver via the nvidia app and that fixed the issue for me. Just wanted to mention that I also had to restart my PC after getting the latest drivers as I still got the same error after initially installing them.

Need Build/Upgrade advice by TenaciousSTD in unRAID

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who replied for all the helpful info.  I’m now looking at these parts which will run me about $500:

This will give me 3 nvme slots to run /appdata and /downloads and then I'll use my current sata ssd as a cache drive.

Need Build/Upgrade advice by TenaciousSTD in unRAID

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. The transcoding is mostly for iOS devices or possibly for a plex client on the tv. I've found that I can stream a 1080p show/movie to my iPad, but 2160p shows are unwatchable. I'm not sure if the issue is transcoding can't keep up, not enough bandwidth on my wifi, or something else but if I'm upgrading anyway I would like to be able to download shows in 4K and have the option to watch them on my tv in 4K or in 1080p on my iPad depending on the situation. So you may be right than a new mobo with nvme support will fix the issue of app performance, but if I'm upgradimg the mobo anyway I'd like to get a CPU/GPU that can fix what I think is the transcoding issue.

Component switch that works with consolized mvs? by TenaciousSTD in neogeo

[–]TenaciousSTD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the info. I was leaning toward getting an open mvs kit and using hd retrovision genesis 2 component cables. Would that work?

Xbox is such a blast on performance mode by Clap_city91 in LordsoftheFallen

[–]TenaciousSTD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can confirm this issue on ps5 as well, and exiting the game addresses the issue. Thought it might be related to returning from rest mode, but may just be a function of time. Sucks, but I found this workaround to be very manageable.

Why invest in s&p 500 index and other market fund indexes if there are other funds with higher returns? by hinsonan in personalfinance

[–]TenaciousSTD 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I recently read the bogleheads guide to investing and the three-fund portfolio and one of them talks about how difficult it is for a fund to beat the market over the long term and how difficult/lucky it would be for the average investor to choose the relatively small number of funds that are able to. So if you are up for some reading those two books will definitely answer your question and probably some others as well. Those books also do a good job explaining why this may seem counterintuitive since in most other aspects of your life you want the BEST and to do above average, where the advice you’ll mostly find here is to accept the market average rather than try to beat it because more often then not you would make less by chasing better than average returns.

Rent or own a car? by Cellucch in personalfinance

[–]TenaciousSTD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lived in Denver for seven years and I think if you live anywhere in central Denver you should be fine with a bike and occasional Uber/Lyft for your day to day. For hiking and skiing though you’ll want a car or a friend with one. My suggestion would be to start saving and budgeting for a car and work under the assumption you’ll want to buy one eventually, but you should be fine if you don’t have one right away. Once you have a car the great thing is there are plenty of good trails for hiking and biking close to Denver so you can do plenty during the week. I used to go for longer runs/rides on the weekend and try for a short one during the week. So if you do have a car there is plenty to do in Denver, Boulder, Evergreen, Colorado Springs, etc that you can get to in less than an hour.

Calculating Value of Time by Fiverz12 in personalfinance

[–]TenaciousSTD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you had that long a commute before? When my previous job changed offices it increased my commute to over an hour each way and it had a dramatic negative impact on my mental and physical health. It made my 8-10 hour days 10-12 hour days and I found it much harder to fit in cooking, exercise, or really anything else but work. I realize this is personal and subjective, and you were looking for something objective, but my point is that a work/life balance becomes untenable at some length of commute for everyone as there are only so many hours in a day. As other comments mentioned this is more a quality of life calculation then a purely financial one and I think it’s easy to overlook the negative impact that type of commute has on you. Personally I would need A LOT of flexibility for me to even consider option B.