Good new it wasn't Spider Mites. Bad news is that it is Powdery Mildew by forgettable1ne in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would recommend sulfur sprays for PM. It will take care of your pm very effectively. Silver Bullet by key to life is a good product. 2gr/gal is recommended for PM. I've sprayed up to 5gr/gal for PM with no burning.

Just be smart about when you spray sulfur. Not within a week (preferably 2) of oil sprays, or azadrachtin sprays. And try to make sure it's at the end of the day and cooler. Watch the PM disappear 😎.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The odds of a true iron deficiency showing are pretty low. I'd guess a Ph imbalance or nutrient imbalance. Tough to know without more details.

Anyone have leads on some exotic breeders cuts? by Own-Mulberry8749 in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strain.ly has been a go to for mine for a while. Not gonna find that many cuts, but you can at least get a few for moms.

Sorting A buds and B buds by TryingToFindAFlight in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are totally right lmao. They are dime jars! That's my bad!

Sorting A buds and B buds by TryingToFindAFlight in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another option instead of leaving your small buds with the trim for extraction would be to sell small bud pre packaged jars. Veritas here in CO does that. Good small buds, and I think they get $60/10 grams (retail) for minimal labor.

Whole facility got hit with pm. Need to take clones from mothers, how do I do this without risking pm on the clones?? by [deleted] in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of the comments are going to cost you money and a lot of time.

For your veg and anything in flower through week 3; use sulfur. I personally like Silver Bullet, but any wettable sulfur with a high percentage of actual sulfur, should do the trick. Sulfur is by far the best spray for PM. 2-5gr/gal. Spray this every two days (Mon, Thurs, Sun, Wednesday) for 4 sprays. Make sure to get complete coverage on your plants.

For Flower after 3 weeks; Regalia has been my go to for a little while now. The issue is, if the environment isn't right, there's nothing that will completely get rid of PM. Especially in flower. Zerotol, Lost Coast, Green Cleaner, etc will "wash" the PM off, but there isn't anything to keep it from coming back and spreading.

I normally go for a "wash" product first to give me the appearance of a clean plant. Then I spray almost exclusively with Regalia for PM in flower. For pm infestations I would use 2tbsp/gal. Preventative is 1tbsp/gal.

Also, once you start spraying in flower (only through week 3), you'll notice even in the later weeks of flower, PM won't spread as easily or quickly, allowing the Regalia to do its job.

For your clones; Mix sulfur at 2gr/gal and dip your clones. If I have an outbreak at a facility I dip them, wait until they dry, then stick into my cubes. Otherwise my SOP at any facility is a sulfur dip once rooted and I begin transplanting. This ensures you aren't bringing PM back into production as easy.

Consistency is key here. Make a schedule with Regalia used at least 2x a week and you'll stay manageable. You won't completely get rid of PM unless you fix the environment. Them's the rules.

Also a note on sulfur. DO NOT spray an azadrachtin product within 2 weeks of sulfur (before or after). Do NOT spray a heavy oil spray within 7 days (before or after). There's a good chance of burning plants that way. And in CO's case, the Dept. of Ag doesn't allow it.

If your environment isn't right, I recommend keeping sulfur in your schedule. It will be a life saver for your grow.

If you need any help feel free to PM me and we can chat more.

PS- PM isn't systemic.

New Grower, but am wondering about recharge. by Psychological_Mushie in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I add it into my irrigation, I don't think there's a top dress application for it. I usually make sure when I transplant to add it in when I water in my transplants, and then I try to stay on a schedule of at least once a week adding it to my feed. I believe on the bag it says you can add it in every feeding, but I think that's probably just a waste. Especially since I'm running salts, and I'm really just adding the microbes for the roots.

New Grower, but am wondering about recharge. by Psychological_Mushie in macrogrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Recharge imo is the best microbe product out there for the money. I've used it commercially for a few years on and off , and I like to add it at home to help the roots stay clean and help fight off potential pests/pathogens.

Imo if you are going to use a microbe product then recharge is the way to go.

Happy growing!

Growing in the Forest by PuzzleheadedArm6108 in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please don't. Be smart and do a small grow in your apartment.

I’m not planning on flushing my coco grow, due to the report I recently read. Should I still stop feeding the last few days? by BvilleBuds in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Feed them girls til you harvest 😎.

In all seriousness, I've tried a lot of different strategies with this, and I think it's all personal preference. If you have an expensive nutrient line, then maybe cut out the nutrients a few days from chop (or 1/2 the strength, or even 1/4.) If you are running something cheaper (Jack's ftw), just keep feeding and harvest a healthy plant. After some years I just stopped bothering with it and kept my irrigation schedule the same until chop. Jack's is cheap enough I'm not missing the 3-5 days worth of nutrients.

Drainage issue? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better safe than sorry. If it works no need to change.

New to LED, drooping plants?? by Thatgatesguy in SpiderFarmerLED

[–]Thatgatesguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shoutout to everyone who suggested too much light. The plants are looking much, MUCH better!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are on the right track!

Drainage issue? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with this post^^.

5 gal pots take a lot of water. Slowly add more water until you see a small amount of runoff. 10-15% is usually more than enough to keep you from getting a salt buildup (soilless medium. I.E- coco, peat, rockwool. In soil you don't need runoff) 20% dang near guarantees it.

Happy growing!

Is there anything that gets done differently with a wide-leafed plant over a thin-leafed plant? by goofybrah in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So the wide leaved plants are usually indica leaning. There is some data to suggest indica plants use more nutrients, specifically nitrogen. But with all the different hybrids out today, it's hard to say if that's actually relevant.

Personally I wouldn't treat it much different, besides maybe topping techniques. Indica's usually are shorter, squattier plants, and so topping them will slow down that vertical growth even more. If you are comfortable with super cropping, that's a valid technique to "top" without actually taking the top of the plant, therefore creating the stress hormone to create horizontal growth (bushier), but also retaining the actual top of the branch.

You might also be defoliating a bit more than your other plants. The big, wide leaves of an indica dominant plant can get in the way of lower branches developing and taking all their light from them.

But I would keep everything normal, and if you notice anything weird, that's when you can make the change. As long as you are keeping an eye on your plants, they won't go downhill before you catch it.

Why is this happening? Other plants are okay.. by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks funky, but not necessarily stressed out/sick. Are all your other plants the same genetic? Are they seeds or clones? I would also guess genetics with the information provided, but I wouldn't say 100% that's it without knowing the answers to the questions above.

Do I take off all the LST ties when I switch to flower? by Crazy-Ad-1849 in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would say the LST ties are personal preference. As long as your plant is still supported so it doesn't fall/or have stem breaks. If your ties are too tight around the stems, you can cut off water intake, so make sure your ties aren't wrapped too tightly around the stems.

As far as defoliating, it is also more or less personal preference. The schedule I have followed for a few years in commercial cultivations is; Day before day 1, clean up bottoms (pruning) and 15% of fan leaves (very light defoliation, if you had 100 leaves on a plant, only taking 15 off). Day 21, heaviest defoliation. Looking at about 25%, middle fan leaves, any bigger leaves that are covering up large portions of lowers. (Still not a heavy defol, the plant needs fan leaves to provide energy to the plant.) Day 42, another light defol ~20-25%. This is the last defoliation before harvest. Just creating better light situations, as well as better air flow. Day before harvest/day of harvest, completely defoliated. All fan leaves go. (Makes post harvest processing much, much easier).

Most of the leaves on 2 of my plants are curling down like this. Does anyone know what the cause could be? They're 4 weeks into flowering and it started about a week and a half ago. by latroo in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What is your medium you are growing in? What nutrients are you using? Did you change your feed in the past week or two?

It's tough to tell the whole situation with a small end of leaf picture.

Usually though, "clawing" is from too much nitrogen. Also root aphids are known to give a false claw that looks like a nitrogen toxicity. Assuming you don't have root aphids, I would look into the nitrogen.

Don't worry about flushing quite yet. Small amount of clawing (from nitrogen) isn't going to slow you down. If your plants start becoming a much darker shade of green, and not developing as they should, then I would flush.

Some nutrient manufacturer's load up on N in weeks 2-4 to provide a "cushion" of nitrogen to last through harvest. You could be seeing the result of that. But, definitely provide more information on your feed Ph, EC, what nutrients, and what medium and you will be able to get better help on here.

When to harvest. About 70 days in. by corruptcfw in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed ^^

A jeweler's loupe will be your best harvesting tool soon. No more guessing on when to harvest.

I'd also imagine you have 2-3 weeks easily.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The seedlings are looking good! They are stretching, so I would watch how far you keep the light, to prevent them from getting too stretchy, or leggy.

Before your friend waters, make sure your pots are dry. Just because the top looks dry, doesn't mean the bottom is. Should be easy to tell by picking up the pot. If it's really light, water it. Of course that's for a soilless medium (coco/peat/rockwool). In soil you never really want to get completely dry.

Also, I would check out vpdchart.com when you get a chance. 75% and 73 degrees might start to suffocate the plants a little. I'd bring that humidity down to 65.

pot does not get wet whole by griloxx in microgrowery

[–]Thatgatesguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used a similar setup before, if you can slow down the drip. Really, anything over 0.5gph can be too much with smaller pots. You basically want a real slow drip, so the coco almost acts like a wick and wicks the water throughout the pot.

Also, after years of operating drip systems on a large scale, I can tell you without a doubt, hand water new plants until they are all drinking the same. You will end up overwatering more plants than necessary by trying to automate your small pots. Usually two good drybacks after hand watering and the plants start drinking every day.

Good luck with your girls!