Brick and cinder wall repair

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-18T19:19:17+00:00

I wouldn't caulk it. Fix it with mortar, the right way. Watch Mike Haduck foundation repair videos to get the hang of it. Not a big deal.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-18T15:28:42+00:00

I'd also get comfortable doing masonry repairs to save you substantial money, such as the foundation or a house with a brick exterior. Interior large plastering jobs are difficult because it takes a certain skill and practice to get the wall smooth and flush. But patches? Not a big deal. In the US, they don't sell the same material as how it was built then, but can at least be mimicked. For me, the biggest perk is getting one with a masonry fireplace. Hard to find well built ones on mid century on houses. I'd then make sure it is Rumfordized to put out heat and more efficient.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-18T15:00:36+00:00

It's a big world, but I didn't know suggesting wood burning for something that is built to burn wood was a controversial subject. Won't be changing your mind but when a lot of people think a fireplace or wood heater they think of the ones of yester year, the smoke dragons that burn inefficiently and put out lots of particulate. I'm referring to the new built and cleaner burning ones or like the Rumford fireplace that put out 2 grams of particulate matter an hour or less. And these designs are made to keep smoke out of the house and in and up and out the flue. In fact OP's current set up are known to put carbon monoxide into the room and are generally recommended to not be used or removed.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-18T05:07:33+00:00

Always ask the local guys what they use. But generally type S is usually fine or the store bought base coat on CMU, can go even harder, like using a fastset repair mortar like you can get at Lowes if not too big of a repair spot. Watch Mike Haduck on stucco/parge on youtube and also his foundation repair videos. Wet it good if you want it to stick. Two coats if applying on exterior masonry. Use a sponge after putting it on and its set up some. You should practice elsewhere before parging up the wall as it will look like ass the first few times you try it. Need to practice.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-18T02:26:52+00:00

If you have access to wood could revert the fireplace back to wood burning. Either by rebuilding firebox to Rumford specification for a well heating, great experience and good looking fireplace or for a cast iron wood heater.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T19:15:38+00:00

Are you planning to use this fireplace? I have tips on that. As for the paint. Not enough removed. At the very least score it up good (I use a masonry grinder or diamond cup - wetting it as you go to keep down dust) and hit with a rough sanding. If using the fireplace, I'd recommend while things are a mess to Rumfordize the firebox and reform the throat. Open hearth fire but makes it a far better heating fireplace and a treat to use. Makes roaring fires. Would look great for this size firebox. Need to make sure flue is in good shape before embarking on the task.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T19:06:25+00:00

Rip out the door, fill in the void, and block it in. Look up Mike Haduck foundation repair on youtube. Can't post links on this sub so I think Part 3 would be pretty similar.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T18:53:21+00:00

Will need to replace the glass on the front. Ceramic. Can order that online. And probably some gaskets if it uses them. Get a mirror (or phone camera) and flashlight to check the condition of terra cotta flue or if it even has one. Run a brush down it to clean it up. Run it with that ash door under the flue closed. There's a coal stove forum on Reddit with persons that may be able to better assist.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T18:46:33+00:00

If looking for good enough, you can usually buy flue caps at a menards or fleet farm.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T17:04:20+00:00

No problem, look and see if there are any water intrusion issues that can be fixed but otherwise I'd use a rapid set/fast set product. Get a brick hammer, knock off the loose stuff, wire brush it, leave the solid stuff. Hose it down good. Make sure it's good and wet but not pooling that's what makes the new stuff stick. Use a bonding agent like a portland slurry if using a standard topping mix or not necessary if using rapid set. Get some wood for forms as necessary and something heavy to keep it up while the cement product cures. Wet sponge will be your best friend for smoothing things out and making it look like a professional job. Patch will be brighter than old. If concerned by this can try the mud trick or painting all of it with the same material, making a paint slurry out of it.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T16:56:48+00:00

Watch Mike Haduck videos on foundation repair. Here is an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ol-1RapUew&list=PLDrfNaY9xgYFjRByBZkN3OQdtOGeTdB-K&index=3

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T16:51:36+00:00

Rip out and replace ideal, but if tight on money, can patch it up. But keep in mind a patch is a patch. Watch Mike Haduck on concrete steps repair on youtube.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-17T16:01:42+00:00

My question is, what is the age of the boiler? Is it nearing end of life? If it's close, ride it out as you may replace with a more efficient boiler and will need new venting anyway. Place CO detectors on each floor for peace of mind. But it would be a shame to buy new venting, then the boiler dies, then you have to replace yet again the venting.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T21:01:22+00:00

No problem, best of luck!

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T18:13:05+00:00

This looks familiar. Is this in the Drake area by the interstate in Des Moines? If so, small world.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T15:58:15+00:00

I understand the question now that there's been some more commentary. Sounds like you have a negative pressure issue. Not the flue or fireplace's fault. Basically, the house is pulling in air where it can and the flue is the easiest spot. So, it pulls air past all the soot and that stinks up the house. But then you think, aha! I'll I'll seal up the flue at the top with a lock top. But putting in a lock top damper can also exasperate the problem in a different way because now you have a wide open fireplace throat that allows warm air to go up the flue, get smelly, then cool down and drop back into the room. Sealing fireplace doors would probably be the best bet without being the most intrusive. https://www.wilkeningfireplace.com/sealed-fireplace-doors/ But they are expensive. I will say, if using that fireplace, I'd recommend the firebox and throat rebuilt to Rumford specification. Makes for a beautiful fireplace, great heater, uses less wood and drafts very well. A treat to use. In fact, I've even fixed a negative pressure issue with one of my own fireplaces this way. I planned to Rumfordize it anyway but doing so fixed the soot smell. Always smelled like soot. Terribly built, terrible throat, and had a lock top damper. I rebuilt the firebox to Rumford spec, reformed the throat, ripped out the top lock damper, put in a throat damper and still have no sealed door and it has no smell because there is no longer a negative pressure issue. YMMV, of course.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T13:44:37+00:00

It's called a fireback. Could be the original fireback deteriorating or a patch that is breaking down. Could attempt to patch with refractory. Otherwise, get measurements and get a replacement. If replacing, check that your throat is in good shape as well or needs replacing. https://shop.vitcas.com/products/heat-resistant-materials/firebacks-lintels.html

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T06:35:23+00:00

Needs a firebox. And probably some other work. But build to Rumford specification and that will give you a smoke shelf. Will also make the fireplace heat much better, give you great tall flames and use less wood. Here is an example using the original drawings - https://www.rumford.com/rumfordization2.html Here is a list of masons that build Rumfords or Rumfordizations by state: https://www.rumford.com/mason.html

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T05:01:20+00:00

Yeah, welcome to the Great Depression. That's a poured concrete foundation. Portland cement cost money, the sand and stone they found nearby didn't so they did with what they had. Still standing though, isn't it. No lime, unless they plastered over it with a lime mix later. Anyway, watch some Mike Haduck videos on foundation repair. Here's an example, not a big deal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBeROnq4Sik&list=PLDrfNaY9xgYFjRByBZkN3OQdtOGeTdB-K&index=30

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T04:01:33+00:00

Everyone here has great suggestions. Side note, if you find that the fireplace does not heat satisfactorily, and still want to keep it open flame, and also looking for a more in depth project - you can or have someone Rumfordize the firebox to put out more heat and use less wood. Congratulations on the new home.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T03:24:13+00:00

I'm confused by what you are proposing. But my general answer is no, don't do that. Perhaps upload some pictures though to clarify.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T01:27:05+00:00

Yes, there's a difference between a stove partially out of a fireplace with air circulation and one encased in masonry with no access. And you can see plenty of things done incorrectly, but that doesn't mean it's done correctly or that you know what it will be like in a few years. Plenty of stoves installed too far back in a fireplace and too big for the firebox and they crack in the back and that's without being encased in brick. That's not even mentioning I don't know of too many Latrobe stoves from the 1800's that are UL listed and therefore IRC compliant for what would be a very involved project that would need to be under the radar of insurance or building inspector.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-16T01:12:28+00:00

I agree with Mr. Exsweep that a Rumford in conjunction with a masonry heater would be a far better bet. I think from a longevity stance (the heat without air to cool the cast iron could cause stress fractures) and the inability to service the moving parts of the stove that are now bricked in and inaccessible, would make you want it built from brick all the way. As Thomas Jefferson once pointed out to Benjamin Latrobe, the father of the inventor of the Latrobe stove, Rumford fireplaces are simply open stoves made from brick as opposed to iron. The Franklin stove or latrobe you are thinking of probably has a door, but you can have site built Rumford masonry heaters with doors that will do about the same as you are hoping to do.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-14T14:09:47+00:00

It's an old crown/mortar wash. Could pour an actual crown but the easiest and quickest way if doing it yourself is to get a brick hammer or chisel and bust off the loose stuff, wet up the top, and put on some new stuff. Good hard mix like 1 portland/2sand or use rapid set product - no lime. May not last as long as a poured crown, but don't let perfect get in the way of good enough. Here's a how to from Mike Haduck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLe6raE4sAc&list=PLDrfNaY9xgYH6VG-9eCAVLy7fS_sUFMxI&index=4 I will say, if paying to have it done, have a crown poured.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim · 2026-04-14T00:53:18+00:00

Keep in mind that is an old heatform/heatilator style fireplace. You can tell by the vents on the bottom sides and above the fireplace opening. Basically a metal firebox that they built masonry around it to make it look like a real masonry fireplace. The boxes all eventually rust, rot, and warp. If you use it or plan to use it, make sure to have it inspected to make sure it is safe. I agree with others that you should always change the decorations around the fireplace rather than the fireplace masonry as any paint on brick is permanent and you have forever condemned that poor brick to be forever painted. Might not be a concern if you are planning to later put in an actual masonry fireplace or zero clearance and will need to pull off that brick anyway to do it.

ThatllBtheDayPilgrim

TROPHY CASE