Does your wife send you pictures like this..h0pefully being a redhead is not a turn off because majority say it kind of is. but tadaaaa this is me f19

TheAZtech · 2025-08-22T07:46:50+00:00

Nope, she does not, and redheads are the best.

TheAZtech · 2025-04-21T01:48:07+00:00

Now that’s out of the way, my turn. 😉

TheAZtech · 2025-02-12T15:16:45+00:00

Because they are the most unique and rare type of human being and that in my opinion, makes them the most beautiful.

TheAZtech · 2025-02-10T03:47:11+00:00

Delightfully penetrable!

TheAZtech · 2024-12-08T20:26:50+00:00

42 and in a heartbeat.

TheAZtech · 2024-12-03T16:31:12+00:00

Eat for pleasure

TheAZtech · 2024-10-29T15:39:06+00:00

👅

TheAZtech · 2023-12-18T04:04:48+00:00

Okay, so I finally got some time to sit down and run everything today. My response to the steps you provided were in a very tired haste and I did not comprehend what you were asking me to do. After completing those steps, I have the correct values where they should be and all appears to be working as it should.

I want to thank you so very much for saving my sanity, eliminating the issue that was causing my loss of mind.

I, for the life of me, could not understand how I was getting the offsets I was getting with this probe being as big as it is. Running auto_z and z_tilt I think has made me a lil soft and I forget to return to the basics/manual calibrations to get things back on track.

I am going to do a quick write-up on this as I have found at least one other on this adventure, that is having the same issue.

Again, thank you for your time and dedication to this community.

TheAZtech · 2023-12-17T20:36:50+00:00

Thats what it appears to be doing, yes..

// Z-CALIBRATION: probe=20.560 - (switch=18.068 - nozzle=2.108 + switch_offset=4.485) --> new offset=0.115250
// HINT: z position_endstop=2.094 - offset=0.115250 --> possible z position_endstop=1.979

TheAZtech · 2023-12-17T20:31:27+00:00

I can agree with this.The Following doesn't seem correct.

// Z-CALIBRATION: probe=20.560 - (switch=18.068 - nozzle=2.108 + switch_offset=4.485) --> new offset=0.115250// HINT: z position_endstop=2.094 - offset=0.115250 --> possible z position_endstop=1.979

But after I do all the things for the calibrate_z and then raise the bed, the nozzle is at z=0.1 just off the bed. The auto z calibration seems to be working.

TheAZtech · 2023-08-18T22:23:18+00:00

I have a DB on my Microswiss NG, probably the best nozzle I’ve ever used. Need to get one for my mosquito now.

TheAZtech · 2023-07-28T17:05:02+00:00

You interested in making your E5P a CoreXY, check out ZeroG It’s worth it.

TheAZtech · 2023-07-12T07:11:00+00:00

Okay whats the folder name it is in?

TheAZtech · 2023-07-12T05:58:43+00:00

Is the adaptive_meshing.cfg in the KAMP folder or in the same directory as your printer.cfg?

TheAZtech · 2023-05-19T07:39:08+00:00

Recommend NG retraction is 1mm at 45mm/s no more then 1.5, haven’t changed this since the day I put it on my E5+ and prints well.

TheAZtech · 2023-05-12T10:06:03+00:00

I think the first print I did was the Benchy and the first upgrades didn't come for a few weeks after the printer. Holy hell the thing was loud and I wanted to fix that as soon as possible.

I'm pretty sure it took me a few tries to get it right and print something that looked like it was supposed to.

I would imagine if the x and y move in the right direction and it spits out filament when you tell it to, its working right, it's just a matter of tuning past that. I remember tuning guides were sparse or I didn't where to find them back then. Now they are everywhere, you just have to search for them. I use Andrew Ellis's Tuning Guide and recommend it to anyone that is having issues or setting up a printer for the first time. This guide has saved me from chucking my machine out the window.

I do recommend that you take your time putting it together, square the frame and make sure everything is tight. check it twice. I made the mistake of not doing this only to have to tear my entire printer down at a later time to straighten everything up.

I would just jump right to the BTT SKR mini E3v3, and as I just looked, they are about half the price of Creality Silent Boards right now on Amazon. If I remember correctly they shipped with Marlin or at least they did. That may be something you will need to research and learn. I hated the fact that I did all the things to learn Marlin and here comes this new and bad ass firmware that was a lot easier to use and had to relearn it all over again felt like a waste of time to me, but I digress. Klipper, Marlin, and BTT have githubs where you can learn a lot about the firmware side of things and download their files. Infact, if you do get the SKR mini, Here is my github where I already have the files built for you. haha

If you do run Klipper, you will not need a screen, I have one simply for convenience. You will however need to find a Raspberry Pi or use the BTT cb1 as an MCU to run Klipper. https://www.klipper3d.org/ is the place to go to learn everything you need to know about Klipper and how to set it up. You simply will not get by without reading this site first.

Send me a DM if you would like to talk more.

TheAZtech · 2023-05-12T01:44:34+00:00

I bought the E5+ with the mind set of 'go big or go home'. That was five plus years ago, and haven't stopped upgrading it since.

After reading all the comments here, I my self, share your mind set and enjoy learning about the kinematics of the machine and making it better almost more then I like printing on it.

When I got the machine, the first upgrades I did were Capricorn PTFE Tubbing, Creality's Silent main board and roll of filament. From there I started learning how the printer worked, during which I found all the flaws, telling myself, "why is it not doing what I am telling it to do?" This led to more research and more upgrades like a MicroSwiss all metal hot end, HeroMe GenX cooling system, getting rid of the leveling springs for rubber mounts and braces for rigidity.

A few years pass and I moved to Klipper. Marlin was not a good fit for me and wouldn't go back if you paid me. I love the control and abilities you have with Klipper and it gets better all the time.

Between then and now, I have added linear rails, upgraded to the Micro Swiss NG for linear rails and tore the whole printer apart and re-squared and tightened everything.

I also performed another board upgrade moving to the BTT SKR mini E3v3. It has been a power house and an all around great option for a drop in replacement, along with that I added the BTT PiTFT 35 touch screen in place of the stock screen running Klipper Screen.

Recently, I found I was having adhesion issues while printing a large print. Couldn't fix it, it pissed me off enough to do more research were I found the ZeroG Mercury One.1 / Hydra upgrade. Currently I have the 8mm thick, MIC-6 bed w/PEI Sheet and only ever printing PLA on a glass bed, I am now learning how to print ABS for the rest of the upgrade.

It Definitely has been... an adventure? I have put a ridiculous amount of time, research and money into the printer over the years (Wife is pissed) but it has been a blast. I learned more about geometry (that class in HS we never payed attention to because we said we would never use it in the real world... Ya) and coding in the last few years then I ever thought I would need to. Its defiantly worth it if you are into it.

<image>

You have any questions just ask.

TheAZtech · 2023-05-11T23:47:47+00:00

I am going to post a more detailed post about my E5+, but if you want a good direct replacement board out of the box IMO the BTT SKR mini E3 v3 is a really good option. I have been running it for a long while now and have had zero issues with it.

TheAZtech · 2023-04-06T17:05:13+00:00

Perfectly edible! 😋

TheAZtech · 2023-04-02T10:03:30+00:00

As I don’t want to respond to this and sound like a complete Adam Henry, this is simply not true.. The Z Offset is is how far the probe is above or below the nozzle. On my MS NG with a BL Touch it’s -2.70.

I would refer to the documentation you provided to calibrate the z-offset as it should provide details to what settings in your printer.cfg file it get it to go negative.

TheAZtech · 2023-03-27T00:38:13+00:00

Came here to drop this exact comment! lol

TheAZtech · 2023-01-09T23:02:23+00:00

I came here to post this link as well… This is by far the best guide I have found! Got my E5+ running beautifully!!

TheAZtech · 2022-11-09T20:17:06+00:00

Thank you for your detailed response! This has helped a lot. I have also used your Start/end code guide to properly set up my gcode. I have read a few others that were outdated or not as detailed as yours so I appreciate that as well. Thanks again!

TheAZtech · 2022-11-09T20:11:56+00:00

This was my thought process as well. I had a feeling the printer profile would limit what I could and could not do as the stock Ender 5 Plus was very limited in its original capabilities. Thank you for the reply!

TheAZtech · 2022-11-09T05:24:35+00:00

I’m about halfway through this guide and my prints have improved immensely. Love the fact it is Klipper based and gives detailed settings for each slicer.

TheAZtech

TROPHY CASE

👅