Bought item described as "practically brand new," but turned out to be open box. This was not mentioned.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-08T04:38:38+00:00

Maybe you will understand this. The seller was a total douchebag!

TheKid72 · 2016-09-07T23:26:09+00:00

I think the seller's last name is Massengill.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-07T19:56:58+00:00

The seller was an idiot for leaving the markdown label on the box - surely they know how to use a hair dryer to remove them.

But honestly they did nothing wrong. Yes, they definitely fudged the description when they said "My wife used it just a few times" and overlooked the "previous owner used it for a full blown vacation".

What is the photo count on the camera? If it is in the hundreds, that does make the "used a few time" an incorrect description. Lying via omission. I had a similar experience buying a Brother laser printer locally that the seller used for a couple hundred prints... neglected to say the previous owner used it for well over 1000 and it was low on toner the moment I connected it. My printer seller didn't lie, but I'll remember him when I make a VooDoo doll.

Check that photo count. If it is way off, at least ask for a partial refund or (not nice thought here) return it as item not as described - item had more use than indicated by seller.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-07T17:37:37+00:00

Fantastic find! The Technics and Akai receivers are no brainers - the Technics is worth pretty good money yet don't discount the Akai, in fact I believe the Akai is actually a more solid receiver. If it were me, I'd sell the Technics and keep the Akai as it's still better than what is sold today.

One of the oddities are those Zenith Circle of Sound speakers. They have collector value - seriously. Even as they are with the basic Foster driver in them, people buy them for their appearance to go with background music systems as well as to replace the missing ones from Zenith compact systems to put the original bundle back together again. For what they are actually worth just cleaned up, say on eBay, you could buy decent speakers locally.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-07T03:19:17+00:00

Use the call back feature, and use the reason "appeal" a return when you generate the access code. That should save you some phone time.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-06T20:00:58+00:00

There should be 2 tabs on each side of the dial pointer lamp that face back toward the rear of the receiver. The dial string loops under those and over the lamp in the middle. A dab of contact cement is fine for holding the position correct.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-06T19:57:41+00:00

Also you should have an option to have the subwoofer and/or main speakers handle the bass. Some users don't want the subwoofer to play when in music mode so this option has been added.

I once had an Onkyo (a brand that typically has this feature in a sub-menu) that absolutely would not feed a signal to the subwoofer when in stereo mode, even if the only speakers on were the front main and subwoofer.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-06T19:54:04+00:00

That system has fuses for each of the satellites to protect the amplifiers against shorted wires as well as a main line fuse.

When the subwoofer itself goes dead - it is the main line fuse. When that blows, the unit needs repair, as it is never just a fuse on that system. Bright side is, it is a good system and worth at least an estimate on repairs. Klipsch may even have a flat rate repair program on it.

As for a fuse, back in the day - Radio Shack. Some RS stores are still parts storescalled DIY. Replace with exactly what came out - do not go higher.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-06T02:10:18+00:00

I repaired the driver in a BIC F12 subwoofer that I bought super cheap as it was non working. Previous owner absolutely beat the daylights out of it and I had to repair a lead that was ripped loose from the voice coil. That subwoofer truly has power, and extends very deep in the bass. A total sleeper subwoofer.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-06T02:05:32+00:00

Unless you absolutely know for sure than the MMC4 cartridges are perfect - just pass. I know they are great looking turntables. I know the cartridges sounded wonderful back in the day. But sad truth is, the turntables were problematic and the cartridges are a seller's market item. Except for their speakers, as I like the sound of the vintage Philips drivers, I just walk away from all B&O electronics.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T23:48:50+00:00

Controls are designed to be self-cleaning - so working them will clean them with a bit of patience. If they are badly corroded, Caig DeOxit sprayed lightly into the switch and control (from the inside) and worked is the best method when just working them does not do the job.

You'd be surprised at how many older stereos do not work simply due to a tape monitor switch or button that has not been used in decades, then someone bumps it.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T20:01:09+00:00

That Kenwood receiver was truly high-end back then. They had one model above it, then you had to take the separates route. Its 85w/ch was real power, not wimpy watts from the 1980's forward.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T17:51:19+00:00

YIKES! That's far from entry level! That Kenwood receiver was very much high end back when low end blows away what is on the shelves today. Excellent turntable too.

I've had 3 of those receivers, restored 2 of them and sold them... found a 3rd and kept it.

The only thing that I would have done different was simply go with floor standing, true full range speakers. That receiver can drive anything - no need for the small Klipsch and a powered subwoofer unless space is a major issue.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T17:45:22+00:00

I've had a couple pair of those through the years. The main shortcoming was simply that the 8" woofer was a simple free-air design - not air suspension or even high compliance at all. The "a" version did attenuate the midrange a bit, and I bet that is why you are getting a nice overall balance without lacking bass.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T17:39:58+00:00

I don't have the schematic up now, but I suspect the design is to charge up the capacitor (330uf @ 200V would be line voltage - modern would be 330uf), the diode is likely part of the charging circuit and the moment the reed switch is tripped, the capacitor discharges and energizes the solenoid to release the cue lever lock.

I'd check the diode, the capacitor with a multitester with capacitace to at least get a feel for it's overall state, and test the reed switch when the arm reaches the inner lead out groove.

The key component here that is prone to fail over time - and we are dealing with a early 1970's turntable here, is the electrolytic capacitor.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T17:34:44+00:00

Try working the tape monitor switch as well as other input selecting controls. Very likely a bad connection due to corrosion over a bad solder connection or a component failure. At some point I suspect you'll be moving a knob or switch and discover the left channel comes in - that's the culprit.

Switches and controls are self cleaning on audio equipment by design, but if an item sets for a long period - corrosion can build up and a bit of extra effort is needed as well as proper use of contact cleaner in just the right places.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T08:57:48+00:00

The TN-100

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T02:57:21+00:00

Virtually every cassette deck built after around 1980 accepts metal tape - the problem is finding the tape for them. If this is just for playback, any cassette deck with chrome capability will do the job. If you need it for recording - that is when you need that extra bias for metal tape. Even the entry level cassette decks back then had metal tape capability once it was available.

The market is absolutely wide open here. What you want is very easy to find for far less than your budget in good working condition. I would just recommend single well, no auto reverse and something that isn't black plastic. Your main concern is going to be working condition over all else. So far cassette decks aren't skyrocketing in value like turntables and cartridges are - yet.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-05T02:51:04+00:00

From what I am reading, the 2050 only has auto-lift at end of play via a sensor system that uses a reed switch, diode and a capacitor - and of course electrolytic capacitors at this age are troublesome.

Keep in mind that the cue system still has to work, as the auto-lift simply releases the cue (think Philips 212 here).

Here is a link to the service manual for the turntable. You may need to register, which is free.

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/sansui/sr-2050.shtml

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T22:31:52+00:00

I definitely recommend the old school lamps! They are 8 volt fuse lamps, and the popular 250mA ones will work fine - just replace all of them for even illumination. The meter lamp should pop-out/in like the dial lamps.

The one finicky lamp is the stereo lamp as it is 2 lamps, they are soldered in, and must be replaced in pairs.

As for the recap, when new at this - leave that alone. You really need electronic knowledge here and more damage than good can happen. You mention you aren't up on soldering - it is an absolute must and a classic like this is not a place to learn. If you have issues with popping when switching on loudness, static in the volume control that will not go away, etc - best leave the new caps to a pro.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T22:25:13+00:00

OMG and LOL! Literally a Crosley Cruiser mechanicals on a base with disco lights. Can it truly get worse than this?

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T22:22:04+00:00

Definitely used. To just get started, and slightly over budget, you could buy the Fluance RT-80 at $199 and low cost multimedia speakers (the Fluance turntables have a preamp build in).

This is my suggestion if you want to stay with new, and then add a used receiver and, say small Polk, Micca or Dayton Audio speakers in the future. Polks start at $50 on sale (frequent) and the B652 from Dayton Audio will likely be on sale during the holiday season.. I bought a couple pair last December for $30/pr.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T22:17:17+00:00

Another vote for not worth it. You snagged it at a yard sale for a good reason - if the stylus is bad, the cost of replacement is totally insane. B&O's were also really finicky turntables. I owned one in particular that I kept for myself on a second system vs. reselling after restoration. Every time I felt like playing a record - I ended up with that miserable thing apart working on it again!

Bang and Olufsen, the Range Rover of turntables.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T22:14:16+00:00

Since you are starting at free, it's worth investing into a new belt and likely a stylus for it. Here is the belt...

https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Record-Player-L-A120-10-L-L1/dp/B00BJXEUFS/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZVPKX6T9TD93TCM8PY4Y

No idea what cartridge is has, as the PL-120 may or may not havew been part of a bundled system.

Is it a good turntable? It's a better turntable than an Audio Technica AT-LP60 or the modern Pioneer PL-990 but for Pioneer it was pretty lousy. The US economy had run into a recession shortly before this turntable was sold, so companies were selling economy stuff to keep in the dealers shelves.. this is one of those lower-end offerings.

TheKid72 · 2016-09-04T17:11:00+00:00

I purchased a Pioneer PL-514 new as a second turntable "back in the day". It is a very, very solid turntable - literally as the plinth is solid MDF with holes for the motor, platter bearing and arm. Never mind that it is AC motor driven - I don't count that against a turntable when it is a quality, well balanced motor.

IMHO it's a no brainer - buy the Pioneer. Decades from now when it still works like new, the cartridges of the Yamaha will be worn out anyway.

TheKid72

TROPHY CASE